What are your nute PPM levels everyone? - Page 3

dave.b · #21 07-03-2008, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Earl

I

There are only two conversion factors.

One is 700 and the other is 500.

This means that you can mutliply your electro conductivity number
by the conversion factor and get an approximate estimate of the tds

If your EC is .8
then you would have a tds of 400,
if your conversion factor is 500

If your EC is .8 and your conversion factor is 700,
then your tds would be 560

Most of us use meters that are more accurate,
than just to the closest 100th of a part per million.

My $90 Milwaukee Sm104,
reads tds
to plus or minus
10 parts per million.

EC meters are not giving you much information,
no matter that type, or how much they cost.

The number still represents
the amount of electrical current
than your salty nutes
will conduct.

There are many things in your nutrients
that will not be represented by this number,
because they do not conduct electrical current.

very interesting Earl.... which is the cause of conversion facator? so, IYHO a TDS reader is much better than reading EC value, right? I have a EC value of 1.8, how can I convert it to PPM???

4maggio · #22 07-04-2008, 04:00 AM

[quote=Earl;1019828]If you have a tds meter,
then the reading should be in parts per million.

If you are using old world technology,
then you will need a conversion factor
to translate E.C. into PPM.

There are only two conversion factors.

One is 700 and the other is 500.

This means that you can mutliply your electro conductivity number
by the conversion factor and get an approximate estimate of the tds

If your EC is .8
then you would have a tds of 400,
if your conversion factor is 500

If your EC is .8 and your conversion factor is 700,
then your tds would be 560

Most of us use meters that are more accurate,
than just to the closest 100th of a part per million.

My $90 Milwaukee Sm104,
reads tds
to plus or minus
10 parts per million.

EC meters are not giving you much information,
no matter that type, or how much they cost.

The number still represents
the amount of electrical current
than your salty nutes
will conduct.

There are many things in your nutrients
that will not be represented by this number,
because they do not conduct electrical current.[/quote]

High Earl... I couldn't agree more with your calculations.
They are all dead on but EC and PPMs are basically the same thing (times the conversion factor, whatever it is) AND more accurate than 100th isn't really necessary, IMO.

Celcius is old world too but we use it.

I've just started using EC instead of PPM because it IS less specific.
I'm thinking that the plants can't tell the difference between EC/PPM 2.0/1000 from EC/PPM 2.0/1045 anyway... Ph different story...

And for the things not represented who cares?

Am I missing something? or are you being Felix and I'm being Oscar?

Earl · #23 07-04-2008, 06:35 AM

Being an old airline pilot,
I am used to paying attention to the gauges.

I am a little OCD about keeping the number where I want them.

I grew for quite a while without tds.

Once you have your particular strain dialed in,
tds is just a reassuring number,
when you glance at the gauge.

Of course for stoners,
a meter is sometimes a saviour,
like when you forget to replace the nutes,
and you thought you did,
but when you look at the meter it reads 50ppm,
you might think to yourself,
"I guess I haven't got that done yet."

The main reason I use the tds meter
is to save money.

I knew you'd ask.

First example is I use less nutes.

Second I taper the tds up and down
as the plant reaches each phase of it's life.

Third is dialing in a new strain.

I hate tip burn on my plants.

If you notice how the organic guys are so certain,
that there's has the best flavor and buzz.

Well, they are right about the flavor, most of the time.

The flavor is made up of chemicals that the plant mfg.

Chemicals from your nutes
burn inside the cell when they are too concentrated,
and in that chemical fire
the flavor is changed forever.

Tip burn is just an indication,
that the damage is already done.

If your weed taste like hay,
it can be genetic,
but it's mostly due to overfeeding.
.

jointmcfatty · #24 08-04-2008, 07:02 AM

A couple of my buddies are impatient after the harvest and can't wait to smoke their stuff. They will put it in a bag when the stem is still flexible. I noticed that definitely makes a bad hay smell. I keep telling them what is causing it, but they do it anyways. And yet they seem to always ask how I get my buds to smell and burn so perfect. I just laugh at the stoners LOL

Quote:

Originally Posted by Earl

Being an old airline pilot,
I am used to paying attention to the gauges.

I am a little OCD about keeping the number where I want them.

I grew for quite a while without tds.

Once you have your particular strain dialed in,
tds is just a reassuring number,
when you glance at the gauge.

Of course for stoners,
a meter is sometimes a saviour,
like when you forget to replace the nutes,
and you thought you did,
but when you look at the meter it reads 50ppm,
you might think to yourself,
"I guess I haven't got that done yet."

The main reason I use the tds meter
is to save money.

I knew you'd ask.

First example is I use less nutes.

Second I taper the tds up and down
as the plant reaches each phase of it's life.

Third is dialing in a new strain.

I hate tip burn on my plants.

If you notice how the organic guys are so certain,
that there's has the best flavor and buzz.

Well, they are right about the flavor, most of the time.

The flavor is made up of chemicals that the plant mfg.

Chemicals from your nutes
burn inside the cell when they are too concentrated,
and in that chemical fire
the flavor is changed forever.

Tip burn is just an indication,
that the damage is already done.

If your weed taste like hay,
it can be genetic,
but it's mostly due to overfeeding.
.

mane2008 · #25 08-04-2008, 07:30 AM

i never heard of it tasting like hay cause of dat only cause if you cant wait to smoke and dry it like shit. Using chem nutes n not flushing will make it have a small chem tatse though. Sweet leaf takes care of that for me. there is no genetic weed hay.

I smoke good and bad on a daily basis and even shit weed don't tatse like hay cause my homeboy dry his well.

Mahstakilla · #26 08-04-2008, 07:56 PM

I run GH nutes about 900-1200 thru first 4 weeks of veg. and gradually raise till i get to 1600. Then swith to DM gold @ 1800first 3weeks and gradually decrease til harvest.

NoDrama · #27 08-04-2008, 09:21 PM

In veg I start at 500 1st week, 800 week 2, 1000 week3, then on to flower week 1 at 1000, week2 is 1200, week 3 is 1500, week 4 is 1600, week 5 is 1750, 6 is 1500, 7 is 500, and 8 and sometimes 9 is 0-250 ppm. Using Advanced Nutrients.

jointmcfatty · #28 08-04-2008, 11:31 PM

Could u guys also post what type of setup that you're using. Like DWC, flood and drain, aero ect. Im running around 800 on my aero now and I think it may be a lil high, as it looks like they might be getting a lil burn

H&D · #29 08-05-2008, 12:16 AM

clone mild strength say 500 600 ppm pH5.8 <>6.0
Veg 1200 ppm pH5.8<>6.0
Flower 1400ppm pH5.8<> 6.0

bigtittymilf · #30 08-24-2008, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StinkBud

At 7 weeks the buds are not putting on much weight. They are mostly just ripening at that point. The pistils start turning brown and new growth stops. Having your nutrients at 2900 the last week before flushing is overkill.

First I tried Clearex for 5 days straight. The bud tasted shitty.

I used to run 2900 PPM all the way to flush but after two weeks of flushing the leaves weren't even starting to turn yellow. I could still taste small amount of nutes. There is so much stored up nutes in the roots and plant they could go a month on just plain water. Earl did a 6 week flush on a White Widow plant and it was still alive and kicking (right on Earl!).

They really like the high PPM during the initial flowering stretch. Once they level off, 2400 PPM works well.

Two weeks is barley enough time for a decent flush when you are running as high a PPM as I do. You can't rush a flush! I'm also running a 9 week flower cycle. Most guys only run 8 weeks.

The whole flushing thing is over debated. I learned my lesson 14 years ago while using fish emulsion right up until harvest. My bud tasted like I was smoking fish ass! I'll never forget the taste...

flushing widow at 6 weeks is a little early all the seed banks list widow as an 11-12 week flower so you shouldnt fluch till week 9-10 or your not gonna getthem to optimum potency i believe i never grew widow myself im holding some clones for my friend till he moves but i dont want the extra grow time since im doing sweet tooth and bluebery both 8 week sflowers and next time ill do c99 which is 6-7 weeks