i see.... but after converting mm to feet i found that 820mm is equal to about 2 feet 8 inches... so im a little puzzled how 20 of your 8in pots managed to fit in your tray. pls correct me if ive mistaken. this is in reference to your earlier posts by the way when you said you used about 20 or so 8in diameter pots. thx for the quik response Al.

I covered this around page 120 or so. Read the whole thing.

al, found something new that looks VERY interesting, the new LED lights.... what do you think? is it too good to be true?

LED Grow Lights - LightBlaze 400

ok al...i'm almost done now.
i've got the 6"exhaust hood in the ceiling ducted to the intake on my centrif 426 cfm inline then on the discharge side i want to neck down to a 3" so i can plug it into my combo carbon filter/o3 gen by sunlight sheds.
1.- Can i lay this carbon filter on it's side and it'll still work properly?
2.- will i hurt the fan or filter trying to push that much air through them. ( you know with the drastic reduction in size )

The pots are 175mm dia on the top and 130mm on the bottom. 23 fit in each tray. That's another correction you'd find if you just read the whole thread.

Absolute crap. Total bullshit. Ought to be illegal to try to sell a handful of LEDs as a replacement for a 400HPS. There's so much wrong with these that I'm not even going to start on the list. There's a reason that these lamps don't have a lumen rating. If they did, you'd find they put out about 10% of the intensity of a CFL and about 0.25% of the intensity of a 400HPS (based on the very brightest LEDs made, the Philips Luxeon line, which make 140 lumens [and incidentally, the lamp you cite does NOT use Philips Luxeons] CFLs at about 1500 lumens and a 400HPS at 55,000 lumens).

Remember that lumens from multiple light sources don't 'add.' A pair of 140 lumen LEDs lighting the same area will apply 140 lumens to the area, not 280. Same goes for any multiple light sources. Putting dim lights next to dim lights does not give you brighter light- it gives you more sources of dim light over a certain area. If this multiple LED lamp used Luxeons, its luminous output would still not exceed the lumen rating of a single Luxeon LED.

The short answer is 'yes- too good to be true.' LEDs are very expensive toys- and you won't grow any dope with them. Anyone who thinks they will grow dope is a fool. You'd be better off trying to grow with candlelight- at least you'd get some CO2...

I'm rarely this unequivocal on matters asked of me, but I'm a bit sick of both the idiots selling this garbage and the nongs on cannabis boards trying to convince others that they actually will work in the manner advertised. They don't.

LEDs have a future in lighting- whether that will include lights which can grow cannabis at some time in the distant future or not remains to be seen, but the simple fact is that right now, there's no such thing as an LED light that will grow cannabis successfully. Anyone taking your money for such items is a thief, plain and simple. Consider yourself warned. If you buy LEDs to grow dope, you'll get some interesting looking lights but no dope.

If you want to grow buds, select the most powerful single HPS you can use in your space and still control temps below 26C. Cooltubes make this deadset easy.

You'll block about 75% of your airflow if you try to run a 6" centrif into a 3" dia duct. Find something better suited to the size of the blower.

Use a separate blower for your aircooled hood and the main room exhaust. Air cooled lighting requires constant airflow during lights on, plus a 15 minute cooldown time after lights shut down. You can not use a thermostat on a blower which is cooling lighting. It will have to run all the time during lights-on, regardless of the room air temp. You will not be able to control room temps if you use your main blower to cool lighting. Room temp will be whatever the intake air temp is, plus a couple degrees C.

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Get a harvest every 2 weeks - A batch of clones in rockwool - Al B. Gone

I'm a little confused about transitioning the cuttings from mother, to clonebox, then to flowering tray.

I understand that after making your cutting, you put them in rockwool cubes, in the clonebox, with water only, with just a little bit of H202 @ 5.8 PH.

However, how long do clones stay in the clonebox? Also, I noticed you placed the rockwool cubes in another type of growing medium in the flowering trays. Is that perlite? About how much do you use? I myself was thinking of starting with one 4' x 4' flowering tray. So how much do you think I should buy initially?

Ok, and finally, I am kind of torn between using this an aeroponic system. What type of feeding system do you use?

Sorry if you have already covered these questions already... I got to about page 30 before I couldn't take it any longer.

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Anything I say is fictional or theoretical. All pics posted by me are stolen from the web or are very good fakes.

I've covered these questions several, several times in the thread.

The medium is Fytocell, the mums and flowering plants are in flood systems and the clones stay in the clonebox until they have a decent spray of roots. First roots appear in 5-7 days; profuse root formation occurs usually by day 14 in the clonebox.

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Get a harvest every 2 weeks - A batch of clones in rockwool - Al B. Gone

Well, I couldn't find an answer to this one, and I read for 12 minutes.

I heard you should put your leaves in a grocery shopping bag to dry, and I don't have that many leaves, so can I use a lunch bag instead?


Since this has turned into a Ask Al thread, do you want me to close it and sticky it? The full story of the perpetual system is here, and the longer you drag it out, the tougher it is for folks to find the info.

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Problems on the forum? Contact me here!

potroast, the answers DO exist in the thread.

From post#1, page #1:

From page 27:

Again, from post #1, page #1:

If dakevs HAD actually read even post #1, two of his queries would have been answered. If he actually did read the first 30 pages, he would have answered them all.

Can you understand my frustration? Yes, it's annoying when people won't do the minimal information collection. I didn't write it because I wanted people to skip over it then feel free to abuse my courtesy in getting me to rewrite the entire response later on.

However, you're dead right, it's far too long to be a useful reference. I've been thinking of exactly how to migrate the meat into a more usable reference, perhaps as a FAQ item.

Yep, I do think it could be time to slam the door and do something else. If that means an 'Ask Al' thread, sure... but quite honestly, I'm most competent when dealing with queries about a rotating SoG. I don't really think I want to try to answer any question about any kind of op. Within this thread, I can reasonably specialise.

I'm focused on growing useful amounts of quality dope without the grow op owning me. I have distilled it down into a means which does not produce the highest number of grams per sq metre, but it does produce lots of bud reliably with the smallest effort input possible.

What's the solution? Dunno.

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Get a harvest every 2 weeks - A batch of clones in rockwool - Al B. Gone

Al, what is the correct way to top off a nutes tank?
I lose about 2 gals a day in a 20 gal tank. So i add back the 2 gals then ph adj the whole tank. Im thinking that that is causing a serious problem, cause by day 7 i've add about 10 gals of tap water with ppm of 170, and diluted my nutes strength from 1400 down to bout 1100. Im starting to think that im turning my tank into hardwater and probably locking out other nutes, because in the 2nd week of the same nutes, all hell breaks lose (new leaves/shoots turn limegreen more and more everyday, leaves start to taco up, growth slows down to a halt, etc.)

Should i just top off back to 1400 ppm and then ph adj?
What happens when im down 2 gals and my ppm still reads 1400.. Are my plants drinking and feeding at the perfect rate? Do I not top off?

Thank You.