ya, there are hydro organic nutes.... the reason i say hydro is to ensure you get all the needed micro nutrients also..

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"You must be the change you wish to see in the world." Ghandi........
"We must learn to live together as brothers, or perish together as fools." MLK

a) Please don't expect nor demand instant answers from anyone. You won't get far. Patience! Nobody here is paid to answer your queries, myself included.

b) "suficiant" light? Sounds like you're using fluoros. Fluoros emit low-intensity light. Sufficient for clones, seedlings and slow-vegging your mums, but not sufficient for flowering, at least if you want something other than sparse, fluffy buds. If you have different lighting in different phases, use your brightest lighting (remembering of course that lumens don't add- 100x 1500lm CFLs are NOT brighter than any HPS) in wk6 and after.

If you're planning on using hydro nutes, what's with using soil? Select a proper inert hydroponic medium for your style of grow.

If your past experience with nutes is fried plants, you're quite right- of COURSE you need a nute meter. It ain't the nutes, it's you! Moreover, you want to be fairly confident that there's NO nutrient value in whatever medium you use if you're using hydro nutes. You can't measure the nutrient strength contained in soil with your EC meter, but that nutrient value will be added to whatever strength of hydro nutes you add. Great way to burn plants.

True. Nutes is nutes for the most part. Those from larger makers will be more consistent in quality.

Depends on what you think 'full strength' is. Plants can handle 1400ppm @ 5.8 straight out of my clonebox, where they've gotten zero nutes since they were cut off the mums. I use the same 1400ppm nute mix for all my flowering plants, from day1 of flowering to harvest.

Any decent quality potting soil ought to contain enough organic NPK and (especially) micronutes to raise plants already (but will need augmentation several times before harvest). Not a good idea to use hydro nutes in soil- that nutrient strength will add to the strength of whatever nutes exist in the potting soil. If you must do this, use a nute mix no stronger than 1/4-1/2 the nute maker's recommended strength.

If you can buy potting soil, there's nothing stopping you from doing it correctly. Just buy proper inert media for hydroponics. DON'T use hydro nutes with soil. There's no advantage to using hydro nutes in soil as opposed to using good soluble fertilisers intended for soil- in fact, as said, there's plenty of disadvantages.

This being a thread about a hydro op in the hydroponics/aeroponics section of this board, this will be the limit of my comments about soil.

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How not to grow dope - 'Not Your Father's Marijuana' / 'new super cannabis' / 'extra potent hydro' myths busted
DIY batwing reflector - DIY power panel to keep electrics safe and neat - DIY low-temp 3-day bud dryer - Get a harvest every 2 weeks - Photoessay: A batch of clones in rockwool - Project Big Blue Bastard: DIY 5-tube, 100 watt UV ioniser

...and don't even THINK about asking me how to hide your grow from your MOM. This is an adult sport. Give it up until you grow up.

Check out Foxfarm. They have a good organic line of nutes that is good for hydro or soil. I have had good luck with the Foxfarm nutes. My plants seem to love them.

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Ganjafarmer
http://www.rollitup.org/grow-journal...lood-grow.html

i guess i was wrong....... sorry..... i just...... ill save the excuses. lol

hows it going al? i wish i could give you a hand trimming your beautiful herb plants at no charge

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"You must be the change you wish to see in the world." Ghandi........
"We must learn to live together as brothers, or perish together as fools." MLK

While it's on my mind (and before I tear off to go do more harvesting), I'm going to bust a few marijuana growing myths, for those just joining this thread.

Critical thinking 101 - mind the buzzwords - "hydro" ain't "tha bomb":

* There's no difference whatsoever between the resin/THC yield of a particular strain raised in hydroponics as opposed to a good soil mix. Plants raised in hydro will develop more vigorously and will gain overall size faster only due to greater levels of oxygen supplied to the roots. You'll get lots more bud out of hydro and it'll be quicker than soil in comparative development by a couple of weeks, but absent slower performance and lower yield, the THC you get from soil grown as opposed to hydro will be identical for any given strain.

MO and MO!

* MORE is almost NEVER better. Plants are not V8 engines, where more air & fuel always equals more output. With plants, there's 'too little,' 'just right' and 'dead.' MORE will get you in trouble every single time with nutrients/ferts and watering. The only things where more is ALWAYS better (up to a certain practical limit where 'more' makes no appreciable difference) is with luminous intensity applied to the plants and ventilation. You get more luminous intensity from a brighter light, not by putting more dim lights in the same area.

Beware snake oil.

* It's traditionally been hard to get good information about growing cannabis, but forums like this help the situation quite a lot. Makers exploit your ignorance to line their pockets. The vast majority of 'magic sauces' on sale in hydro shops are somewhere between utterly useless and harmful. They are profit makers for the hydro shop, not grand and magical plant growing adjuncts. It absolutely amazes me what a cool looking package label will do for sales. Since most dope growers are young men, magic sauce sellers often leverage the 'high performance' image of popular motor oil packaging. There's not much between the appearance of a jug of Castrol oil and most products in a hydro shop.

Before you buy anything, aside from deadset basics like nutes and H2O2, search the web for real scientific botanical evidence from independent researchers (preferably peer-reviewed writings from the horticultural colleges of big universities) that the active ingredient actually has some benefit. In hydroponic systems, there's zero benefit to adding any carbohydrate, sugars (including molasses), etc- and in fact, these 'carbo load' sauces will cause probs in non-organic hydro ops. Carbs are great for feeding bacteria, mould, fungi, etc. but cannabis plants won't absorb them at all. There should be no organisms (beneficial or otherwise) in a non-organic hydro op aside from the cannabis plants. Don't get me started on crap containing beeswax and brewers' yeast.

Drinking water from your tap is great for hydro ops, chlorination is your friend. Chlorination suppresses pathogens in the pipes and will protect an open tank of nutes for 2-4 days, until the chlorine evaporates. My fully organic veggie patch out in my back yard gets most of its water out of the garden hose. In just one example, I've got a cherry tomato plant that is 11ft tall and threatening to get bigger. RO & distilled water are expensive wastes of time. Unless you have highly saline bore water, tapwater is just fine. In 20 years of growing, I've never seen a problem in a grow op caused by municipal water.

It's amazing how LITTLE you really need to grow great plants. Start with ONLY nutes, pH correction as required and H2O2. Once your op runs reliably- and you are able to tell the difference between problems caused by a new additive and a problem induced by a fault in the grow room's operation, THEN think about adding things, one by one and very carefully observing the plants for changes.

New growers should not try to innovate. Find an example of an op that's making great plants and copy it to the letter. If it works well for someone else, it'll work well for you.

If you have some problem in the op, go back to first principles. Make sure your op is providing the conditions it should be- don't rush out and buy some magic sauce to try to cure problems.

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How not to grow dope - 'Not Your Father's Marijuana' / 'new super cannabis' / 'extra potent hydro' myths busted
DIY batwing reflector - DIY power panel to keep electrics safe and neat - DIY low-temp 3-day bud dryer - Get a harvest every 2 weeks - Photoessay: A batch of clones in rockwool - Project Big Blue Bastard: DIY 5-tube, 100 watt UV ioniser

...and don't even THINK about asking me how to hide your grow from your MOM. This is an adult sport. Give it up until you grow up.

this is in my opinion is some of the best advice I've seen on RUI.
any aspiring grower should read this. well done, Rep point coming your way.

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Be well

just busy.

I wish you could, too. However, it's just so hard to find a blind, deaf manicurist with severe memory problems these days.

I follow my own advice about being a one man band really very strictly. I don't allow anyone to help with my op. When I move buds, I use my own transport (never a borrowed vehicle nor as a passenger in another's) and am always alone. If I ever get busted, I'm going to wear the lot, not share it.

__________________
How not to grow dope - 'Not Your Father's Marijuana' / 'new super cannabis' / 'extra potent hydro' myths busted
DIY batwing reflector - DIY power panel to keep electrics safe and neat - DIY low-temp 3-day bud dryer - Get a harvest every 2 weeks - Photoessay: A batch of clones in rockwool - Project Big Blue Bastard: DIY 5-tube, 100 watt UV ioniser

...and don't even THINK about asking me how to hide your grow from your MOM. This is an adult sport. Give it up until you grow up.

very good points al. the only way i could get the medium ur using is to order it and i know you cant reuse that stuff this would be the first for me to see that kinda of medium..

My dream set up would be two 1000 watt lights over four trays for the first four weeks of flowering and then an individual 600w for the last 4- Producing hopefully 18-25 ounces a week. But when starting, I'm going to flower a few strains all the way through in one tray to see which produces the best bud for SoG.

I forgot, what strength and mixture of nut solution do you dip your clones in?

Also, do you think if you vegged the clones for another 1-2 weeks you would get a bigger yield per plant?

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Just roll with it.

Well, use soil with proper fertilisers or inert media with hydroponic nutes, one or the other. Check your local building supply for rockwool insulation, which if it is the absorbent type of rockwool (as opposed to water repellent type) will work just fine.

There would be a glass fibre inhalation hazard with dry bulk fibreglas, but it would work OK as a medium if you keep it damp to prevent a lot of glass fibres from floating around.

__________________
How not to grow dope - 'Not Your Father's Marijuana' / 'new super cannabis' / 'extra potent hydro' myths busted
DIY batwing reflector - DIY power panel to keep electrics safe and neat - DIY low-temp 3-day bud dryer - Get a harvest every 2 weeks - Photoessay: A batch of clones in rockwool - Project Big Blue Bastard: DIY 5-tube, 100 watt UV ioniser

...and don't even THINK about asking me how to hide your grow from your MOM. This is an adult sport. Give it up until you grow up.