Your a golden god. thanks AL.
Greetings and hallucinations. Got a bit of a break from the usual grind, so I thought I'd check in.
Have taken a bit of a stroll around the hydro forum. While there's some brilliant people doing brilliant things, a few folks have been drinking FarkingClueless™ by the megalitre.
While I DO have a little bit of free time at this moment, I don't have time to visit every thread and comment. I'll proffer these general observations, though:
* Laundry bleach (sodium hypochlorite, NaOCl) in hydroponics: Just Don't Do It. PLEASE. Use H2O2, 50% grade at 1ml/L of nute soln, applied every 3-4 days. Controls all pathogens and oxygenates roots when H2O2 breaks down. NaOCl is toxic to cannabis plants, as are its breakdown components, inclusive of NaCl (sodium chloride eg table salt).
* Molasses/sugar in hydroponics: LAST TIME- plants can't eat complex carbohydrates, but many pathogens CAN. You're growing cannabis in your hydroponic system- not anything else.
* Chlorinated municipal tap water is fine for hydroponics. Fancy water filtration systems are completely unnecessary. Chlorine, in the amounts applied by muni water treatment plants, is completely harmless to plants and people. High TDS readings from 'hard' water are caused primarily by dissolved minerals like Ca and Mg, both of which are necessary micronutrients. Any water suitable for drinking is excellent for hydroponics. The only reason one would ever have to ever use expensive RO or filtration systems is if one is sourcing water from a local bore/well, where water may contain high levels of salinity or sulfur. In 25 years of growing dope, I've never once seen tapwater from a municipal system cause problems in a hydroponic grow op.
* Organic hydroponics: Is complete nonsense. The 'organic' buzzword is overused and largely misunderstood by the general public. 'Organic' doesn't mean 'good' or 'better.' It means that the material in question is sourced from a biological system. Organic nutrients are, in actual fact, mostly shit. Compost and manures themselves are not assimilable by plants; it's the breakdown components, N, P & K, which plants eat. There's no difference between the N, P & K obtained via organic matter breaking down and that obtained from "chemical" aka inorganic fertilisers. However, inorganic nutes allow you to precisely and CONSISTENTLY control the amount of N, P & K presented to the plants. With 'organic' nutes, you never really know what the precise amounts and ratios of N, P & K your plants will actually get. Moreover, inorganic nutes are not affected by the use of H2O2 in hydroponic nute solns. Inorganic based hydro systems are clean, tanks are clear and such systems are much easier to maintain, especially for the newbish. Now, before some holy organic evangelist upbraids me for not knowing what I'm talking about, know ye this: my veg patch out back is run on organic principles; my cannabis plant waste, lawn clips and kitchen veg cuttings are composted and incorporated into the garden soil after spending about a year breaking down in the compost bins. It works pretty well- outdoors, where I don't give a damn how many bugs & microbes are hanging about. In my indoor hydroponic grow-op, I want to have only ONE living organism: cannabis plants.
So, wut up, dawg?
Nice to have one of the bigtimers back in the hydro section, even if it is for a short stint.
Getting kinda boring around here.
Hi Al!
I use bleach, RO and the pulsing heart of a young goat every new moon, but I'm smoothly perpetual thanks to you.
Happy New Year!
Hey Al.. i remember gypse bush use to run 1200 start to finish no flush. What was your preference, to flush or not to flush?? also in your opinion whats the best commercial yeilding sog variety you have seen.. shnkrmn, your chronic has been "heavy" on my mind
welcome back al, glad to see a pro like you around here.
http://www.rollitup.org/grow-journal...some-dirt.html
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it....
yo al i just moved into my house, and for the first time ever i have well water instead of city. your saying i should buy some kind of ro system? what do you think about those cheap brita things you hook on your sink? would that be sufficient?
Everything I post is a a lie! All pics are from the net!
That's what all the girls say.
Well, we certainly can't have BORING. I'll try to focus my housefly-level attention span here for a few days. Bear in mind that I'm still quite happily running the op described oh-so-long ago in Get a harvest every 2 weeks and still using the methods as contained in A batch of clones in rockwool, except for using only plain tapwater these days for soaking RW cubes and for watering clones. Nothing else needed.
This made me larf out loud.
And HNY to you, too.
1100-1200 is fine, if a bit toward the strong end of the spectrum. Flushing is optional. I don't bother, all my tanks run the same mix, 1000-1100ppm @ 5.8. The best strains for SoG are predominantly indica hybrids- and there's lots of those around.
Cheers, kevin.![]()
Well/bore water can cause problems, particularly if the salinity is high. Get your water tested. You may find some state/county extension resources for free or very cheap water quality testing. Failing that, check with a local university. Gotta know what you're starting with. Brita filters may work in some situations but they are very slow and not very useful for treating large quantities of water. My system has about 550 litres of tank volume- I can't imagine what a pain in the ass it would be to filter 550L of water for my bi-weekly tank dumps. An RO system may be useful if your water quality tests indicate high salinity. If the salinity is OK for drinking (100-200ppm), it'll be OK for plants in hydroponics.
Last edited by Al B. Fuct; 01-10-2011 at 02:17 PM.
While I'm here, I've got to comment on 'magic sauces.' I was in my local hydro shop the other day and noticed they've expanded the range of magical rubbish by a factor of 2, at least. If you're using a good quality inorganic nutrient (I use Canna nutes), you simply will have no need for anything else beyond H2O2 and perhaps some phosphoric acid based pH Down. You'll find that good nutes already include pH buffers that will set the pH of most tapwater to 5.8-6.0 when you mix for 1000-1100ppm. However, when you top up tanks (always with plain tapwater), the pH may wander upward somewhat. Correct it carefully with pH Down- and don't overshoot. Too low is as bad as too high.
Dump your tanks every 2 weeks and mix entirely new solution. Don't try to add nute concentrates to a half-eaten tank of nutes. You'll have no way of knowing if the NPK ratios are correct- but I can guarantee you that they won't be.
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