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  1. #21
    Learning How To Roll Learning How To Roll
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    And also.. Good luck on keeping up with the flood of questions

  2. #22
    Marijuana Toker Marijuana Toker The Waiter's Avatar
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    Hey Al no questions i can think of at the moment. I just wanted to tell you that you're the fuckin man

  3. #23
    once had a dog named Mr. Ganja Al B. Fuct's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jhaz View Post
    i will get a suphar burner in 2 months when i move..but rigth now im in a apt building and the grows in my bedroom...cant risk the management asking why my apt smells so shitty
    If you can control the scent of your plants, you'll be able to control the scent of the sulfur, which goes away very quickly once the sulfur in the evaporator re-solidifies. The sulfur vapour will also leave an invisible residue on ALL grow room surfaces, which will kill mould spores anywhere they lay & reduce future re-infection events. You going in & out of the room will always bring in some new ones, but they stand much less a chance of blooming with the inhospitible sulfur vapour residue on everything.

    Quote Originally Posted by drgreentm View Post
    i run flora nova grow/bloom one part mix and it is supposed to be half/half of organic and synthetic ph stable but the problem is it is very thick almost like mud and leaves my res's very dirty and hell of a time to clean. would you just recommend changing to a full synthetic mix so i could use h202 or what else could i do?? thanks again.
    Change to a fully inorganic nutrient. Problem solved.

    Quote Originally Posted by gudkarma View Post
    other than the general banter you'll find in any thread(s), i've digested & applied your info to the maximus.

    ton of questions, good sir.
    tons.

    straight to business.

    6 months into a new lab setup ...straight SOG ...on ebb tables with square pots & hydroton.

    rather than four tables, my space allows me to run three tables on a three week rotation ...using strains that finish in 7 to 9 weeks.
    Sounds good.

    nevertheless, there's a few fellows more than i working through your "system" or variations thereof.
    I've seen a few of them. My 'system' as it were can be modified in a number of ways to suit the grower, particularly on scaling.

    too, after so much experimentation in various media, i can't see where/how 1000ppm is necessay when i get excellent results @ 800 to 850ppm max (and that's in weeks 7-9).
    If it works well at 800, do eeeet.

    on the same note, when i go from the cloner to my first tray at anything over 500ppm my plants look like total shit for days & days on end. i cant see how high nute concentrations help at this stage. comments?

    so what do you suggest (in general) as base ppm concentrations for each tray in the rotation? i see someone earlier in this thread notes a friend running 1200ppm from beginning to end, wtf?
    I run all tanks in the flowering room at 1000-1100 @ 5.8. I can't be fucked mixing differently for each tank. My new clones don't react badly at all to 1000 from the get-go.

    do you clone at the same ph as your first table (weeks 1-2 , 1-3 for me) to make the transition easier?
    I've recently been soaking RW cubes for 24h in plain frech tapwater, no pH correction, no H2O2. Been watering clones with the same.

    imo, the art of this entire growing method rests on your ability to bust roots on clones.
    Too right. If you can't get clones to happen reliably, it all falls down.
    often, you discussed going straight from the cloner to the table. with straight tap water, i'm curious as to the type of root development your plants have/had when they hit the table. are we talking nubs or beards?
    If a clone is really setting root well, it'll have about 7-10 'nubs' out of the cube on the same day, as first roots. It can be planted right then. In practise, I tend to wait until I have a full batch of 24 with roots out of the cube before I plant. However, don't let a lot of roots develop outside of the cube before planting. They're not supported with media and are easy to damage or dry out. Planting earlier is better than later.

    in SOG, early root development is critical to the amount of strech you'll get (outside of genetics) from any given strain ...yes?
    Early root development is critical to a thriving plant, full stop. If a plant is thriving, it'll easily get to 36"-40" by wk4. Winnow out poor performers before they go to the flowering room.

    regarding the above question, what do you think about extra veg time for the cuts? i'm finding 2 weeks veg time after rooting has a better overall effect on yeild than anything else i've tried.
    If there's good root development on a thriving plant, vegging is not only unnecessary but problematic as it will induce excessive vertical height & branching. The ideal is a batch of uniformly short plants that have their main bud area in the highest light intensity available.

    what about additives of any kind?
    I don't use anything but nutes, H2O2 and occasional pH Down.
    obviously there's a fixed number of plants i can get on a tray. i've been experimenting with with a low concentration (1/4 recommended) of a popular bloom booster to try & enhance yield.
    Be sure to reduce your nutrient ppm or eliminate std nutes altogether for the period that you're using any phosphorus-based bloom additives- which, BTW are the only ones that can possibly work. If I see another beeswax & bullshit bloom booster, I'm going to punch some marketing genius in the brain. It's be the same one who thought that 'power balance' bracelets were a good idea...

    imo, it's not about running a booster all the time but applying it for a few days (then changing out the rez) at the right time.
    [/QUOTE]
    Last edited by Al B. Fuct; 01-11-2011 at 01:55 AM.
    potpimp likes this.

  4. #24
    once had a dog named Mr. Ganja Al B. Fuct's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highhopes99 View Post
    Wow, al b fuct say it ain't so.
    It ain't so. Happy?

    So is the bleach thing really no good?
    Really no good.

    I was set on getting a meter to monitor the chlorine in my res. I was excited about killing all my pathogens with a 5 dollar jug of bleach.
    I'd like to fly to the moon with a propeller beanie.
    My roots turned brown the other day and all my attempts with h202 did not prevent much. I was adding up to 2 ml per liter. ( flood and drain, rock wool pots, flooded once a day when loose half water weight, canna nutes 1000ppm, ph 5.8 but rising daily).
    Any slimy feeling on the bottom of the nute tanks? Applying regularly every 3-4 days? Any chance the roots could have been dried out or drowned? I had a timer fail not long back- it was adding a 6 HOUR 'ON' cycle where there should have been none. Pissed me off. It was running in the middle of the night and I wasn't aware it was happening until I had problems with a couple consecutive batches which had run through the tray with the defective timer.

    Hey, by the way. So your clones are working better with just yap water. No ph? No h202?
    Yep, just plain water.

    I found mine worked better the same way straight tap water. And a little powder. I thought your old technique was working like clock work?
    Yes, I still use rooting powder, but the other stuff just wasn't necessary. Works better without.

    Quote Originally Posted by Highhopes99 View Post
    And also.. Good luck on keeping up with the flood of questions
    Yeah, cheers for that. xD Every time I pop in, I DO get a deluge. Hope I can keep up. I really only have a couple of days to put into answering questinos, though- then I'm again going to be off like a prom dress.

    Quote Originally Posted by The Waiter View Post
    Hey Al no questions i can think of at the moment. I just wanted to tell you that you're the fuckin man
    heh, thanks

  5. #25
    Stoner Stoner jrinlv's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the great info Al,

    My latest setup is definitely influenced but mostly your posts, thanks for sharing...JR

  6. #26
    Veteran Smoker Mr. Ganja drgreentm's Avatar
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    thanks for the answer al i would ask what inorganic line you would recommend but pretty sure i know it would be the canna line up seeings how thats what you are using correct?? think i might give them a go i like the flora nova just to grimy.

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    Veteran Smoker Mr. Ganja
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    I laughed out loud at the first post. Nice

  8. #28
    once had a dog named Mr. Ganja Al B. Fuct's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drgreentm View Post
    thanks for the answer al i would ask what inorganic line you would recommend but pretty sure i know it would be the canna line up seeings how thats what you are using correct?? think i might give them a go i like the flora nova just to grimy.
    I would recommend Canna, strangely enough. No, they're not paying me to say that.. but hey, Canna... if you're listening... there's enough room in my garden shed for a few pallets of gold bars.

    There's several high quality inorganic nutrient mfrs, though. Someone will chime in and mention their favourite. Just avoid organics.

    Quote Originally Posted by Japanfreak View Post
    I laughed out loud at the first post. Nice
    Really? I didn't even use any of my 'A' material about rusty nails driven through stems to increase potency...

  9. #29
    zem
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    holy shit Al i'm glad you're here man. i have been pulling my hair in here from the silly shit advice being given out. i use my tapwater with 35%H2O2 and chemical ferts in powder form. i never seen any 50% grade. i get pissed from the organic bullshit every day and there are few who would jump into threads telling everybody to use bleach instead of h2o2 giving it as a FACT that it's actually better, good luck trying to make things straight in here lmao

  10. #30
    once had a dog named Mr. Ganja Al B. Fuct's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zem View Post
    holy shit Al i'm glad you're here man. i have been pulling my hair in here from the silly shit advice being given out.
    How are the LED evangelists doing?

    i use my tapwater with 35%H2O2 and chemical ferts in powder form. i never seen any 50% grade.
    35% will do fine. Low strength H2O2 has a stabiliser added (normally sodium silicate) which is not plant friendly. AFAIK, 35% doesn't require stabilliser, but much lower than that does or the shelf life is rather short (about a year).

    i get pissed from the organic bullshit every day and there are few who would jump into threads telling everybody to use bleach instead of h2o2 giving it as a FACT that it's actually better, good luck trying to make things straight in here lmao
    I know, it's hard to rest when SOMEBODY ON THE INTERNET IS WRONG.

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