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Old 10-28-2007, 11:35 AM
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Default How do you feed aero plants based on PPM/EC?
What are the general guidelines per week for feeding plants? The guy at the hydroponics store told me that start at 300 ppm (combination of your nutes) for early veg at the first feeding, then every week take it 100ppm more.
So like this:
Week 1 (after clones run out of nutes): 300 ppm
Week 2: 400ppm
Week 3: 500ppm
Week 4: 600ppm
Week 5: 700ppm
Week 6: 800ppm
Week 7: 900 ppm
Week 8: 1000ppm
Week 9: 1100ppm


Then when it gets to flower get the numbers in the early-mids 1000s. Is this right? As far as feeding plants based upon ppm/ec is concerned, how is this EXACTLY done I have tried searching this forum, CC's forum, google I really can't find how this is precisely done to get the most out of the plants - I want to get it down exactly even though I know every plant is different there should be some close guideline that will prevent any nute burn.
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Old 10-28-2007, 11:37 AM
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Why would you veg an aero plant for 9 weeks?
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Old 10-28-2007, 12:01 PM
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I never said you'd veg it for 9 weeks. In fact I'm running SoG so I wouldn't veg at all, I'd flower 36 clones directly after they root. Could you have answered my question instead of criticizing what I was saying?
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Old 10-28-2007, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by livinlegend View Post
I never said you'd veg it for 9 weeks. In fact I'm running SoG so I wouldn't veg at all, I'd flower 36 clones directly after they root. Could you have answered my question instead of criticizing what I was saying?
No i just didn't understand what you meant by the 9 week schedule, followed by flowering questions.

Which nutes are you using? I know that canna has a table on their website for ppm feeding.
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Old 10-28-2007, 12:31 PM
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I'm most likely going to be using either the GH 3 part series or the Ionic series. I'm not sure as of yet I have not made a purchase. I'm willing to take recommendations. I heard AN is good but they seem really trendy and way too expensive, I'd rather use a really simple 3 part formula than messing with AN's 15 part nutes.
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Old 10-28-2007, 12:33 PM
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I found this:

What ranges should I maintain for my hydroponic nutrients pH, TDS/EC and temperature?

I follow and highly recommend the following parameters for hydroponic nutrient solutions for aeroponic, “bubblers”, drip, ebb and flow, NFT, passive, rockwool and wick systems.

PH 5.1-5.9 (5.2 optimal)
TDS 500-1000ppm, EC .75-1.5
Temperature 68-78f, 20-25c (75f, 24c optimal)

The pH of the nutrient solution is a major determinant of nutrient uptake by the plant. If the pH wanders outside the optimum range of between pH 5.1 and pH 5.9, then nutritional deficiency and/or toxicity problems can occur. For hydroponic nutrient solutions used with inert media, keep the pH at 5.2 for optimal elemental uptake. It is at this point that roots most readily assimilate nutrients. These pH and TDS/EC recommendations may seem low relative to the normally suggested range, but are based upon information garnered from "Hydroponic Nutrients" by M. Edward Muckle and Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses. They both document the low pH resulting in increased nutrient uptake and my experience has shown discernible health and yield improvements at a ph of 5.2 over higher levels.

On page 100, Hydroponic Nutrients displays both the assimilation chart for organic soil applications and another for inert medium hydroponics, which depicts the vastly different scenarios. The widely accepted soil based chart is frequently misapplied to water culture applications. His research and that done by others, documented in Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses, indicate that iron and phosphorous precipitate in nutrient solutions at pH levels above 6. Stay below a pH of 6 by all means to avoid this problem and benefit.

The nutrient assimilation rate is further enhanced by the reduction in solution TDS/EC, which reduces osmotic pressure and allows the roots to draw the nutrients "easier". Young, established seedlings or rooted cuttings are started at 500-600ppm. The TDS is increased to 800-900ppm during peak vegetative growth. During the transition from early to heavy flowering, TDS is further raised to 1000-1100ppm. It is then reduced to 400-500ppm during the final 2 weeks of flushing. The plants demonstrate their preference for a lower TDS/EC when running a lower pH by clearly sustaining higher growth rates.




If this is indeed true that the next day you check ppm and if its higher the plant has too much nute, if its lower the plant has too little. If its stable its perfect. I think this will greatly help me.
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Old 10-28-2007, 01:05 PM
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After skimming this, everything seems right, but ou are going to need to adjust depending on your water strain and nutrients.
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Old 10-29-2007, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by livinlegend View Post
I found this:

-snip-

If this is indeed true that the next day you check ppm and if its higher the plant has too much nute, if its lower the plant has too little. If its stable its perfect. I think this will greatly help me.
Everything that I snipped is good info, this last part is a little off. Each day the ppm will go up because the plant will use more water than nutes. With less water, the nutes that are there are stronger. If you top off with some plain water, you will lower the strength.

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Old 10-29-2007, 01:58 AM
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This is what I meant to post

How do I tell if my PPM/EC is too high or too low?

It's simple to find out if you are using too much food or not enough by watching the nutrient concentration levels in your tanks day to day. Don't be concerned with the exact reading, rather watch how it rises and falls from each day to the next. The differences between when you put the solution into the tank and the readings you get several hours later or the next day are what tell you if your plant is eating, drinking or happy.

Start with 1.00 EC (or a SAFE nutrient strength). Next day, if it reads 1.4, it means your plants have been using water and your nutrient solution is becoming more concentrated. This means the concentration of nutrients is too high, so you dilute.

If the meter reads lower than the previous day, 0.7 say, it tells you that the plants are eating nutrients faster than they are drinking water, so you should increase your nutrient strength. If it remains the same, your feeding schedule is on target for now. The nutrient/water intake fluctuates with the growth of the plant, so you must continually monitor it day to day.

Your plants will tell you the optimum nutrient levels. When they are receiving optimum food and water, the readings remain constant. The more you do it, the easier it gets. The reason no one can tell you what PPM/EC levels to use is because every garden is different and every plant has different requirements due to their particular environment. That's why you have a ball park starting figure, but after that your plants will tell you almost exactly what they require.
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Old 10-28-2009, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by livinlegend View Post
This is what I meant to post

How do I tell if my PPM/EC is too high or too low?

It's simple to find out if you are using too much food or not enough by watching the nutrient concentration levels in your tanks day to day. Don't be concerned with the exact reading, rather watch how it rises and falls from each day to the next. The differences between when you put the solution into the tank and the readings you get several hours later or the next day are what tell you if your plant is eating, drinking or happy.

Start with 1.00 EC (or a SAFE nutrient strength). Next day, if it reads 1.4, it means your plants have been using water and your nutrient solution is becoming more concentrated. This means the concentration of nutrients is too high, so you dilute.

If the meter reads lower than the previous day, 0.7 say, it tells you that the plants are eating nutrients faster than they are drinking water, so you should increase your nutrient strength. If it remains the same, your feeding schedule is on target for now. The nutrient/water intake fluctuates with the growth of the plant, so you must continually monitor it day to day.

Your plants will tell you the optimum nutrient levels. When they are receiving optimum food and water, the readings remain constant. The more you do it, the easier it gets. The reason no one can tell you what PPM/EC levels to use is because every garden is different and every plant has different requirements due to their particular environment. That's why you have a ball park starting figure, but after that your plants will tell you almost exactly what they require.


perfect answer
 

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