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  #211  
Old 05-20-2008, 07:12 PM
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I'm sure this has already been addressed, but how much do you think it would cost to build a hydro set up like the guy in the "I grow chronic" video? Not including seeds, those vary way to much to account for them.
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  #212  
Old 05-20-2008, 07:55 PM
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how good is bat gano??
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  #213  
Old 05-20-2008, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stickyicky77 View Post
Hey Potroast, i am ready to plant my clones that are in 3" rock wool cubes into hydrotons and individual pots in my table. I have read that some people plant the cubes 1/2" above the flood plain and flood 3x a day and some say to plant the cubes so the flood plain soaks up to the center of the cubes and flood 1-3x a day and flood once a week from the top. Could you tell me which would work best in my flood and drain table? I am using a 400w Super HPS and CO2. You can see my set up in my journal.
I always flooded up to the bottom of the cube, and drained immediately. You'll need to experiment with your setup, and make adjustments as you go.

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how good is bat guano??
Apparently, not very valuable to the bat.

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  #214  
Old 05-23-2008, 08:52 PM
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Potroast...

I am brand spanikin new to growing (actually only reason I decided to grow is my old connect died, whatcha gonna do right?) So anyways I figured since I had to start I'd rather start with dro, but have been reading a lil bit and it seems harder to grow this way... would you say I should start here or not, and if so what would you advise for a newbie with a modest budget?
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  #215  
Old 05-23-2008, 09:44 PM
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Default great place to start

Moe

Check out the grow FAQ's, there are answers to so many of the questions that you will have at first.

Personally I am doing DWC (deep water culture) hydro and I was not a member when I started. There are so many things on the grow FAQ's and they are all divided up into categories so that you are able to get specific about your question. When you are having trouble finding answers there or want a second opinion on methods or processes described search threads and start your own to find other referance...

happy growing!
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  #216  
Old 05-24-2008, 12:47 AM
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Always good advice to read up a lot first, but I always advise new growers to start with dirt growing. It is exponentially easier and will give you the best chance of actually harvesting some bud. Once you've harvested some bud, you can decide to try a more advanced growing method.

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  #217  
Old 05-24-2008, 06:33 PM
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Dually noted Potroast... Thanks
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  #218  
Old 05-29-2008, 04:18 PM
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New grower , with wilma 10 pot drip system ,canna vega,canna flores, airpump for nutes , nute heater , 600w grolux 200w cfl,40w grolux flourescent 4ft , tap water gives a high reading poss an 8 but i have ph up and down .
could realy do with some help on temp cf readings(what ever they r ) ph ,cf (cf whats it mean ) O and got a blue truncheon to test every thing . please help .
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  #219  
Old 06-02-2008, 06:38 PM
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Lightbulb Ebb n' flow. Logistics of using multiple trays

Recently I decided to upgrade from two 3'x3' tables to six. In the hopes of consolidating equipment and saving space I decided to use a smaller res with a separate pump and timer for each tray. This way I could get away with a much smaller res and wouldn't have to worry about structural support for the tons of water it would take to flood all the tables simultaneously. Hopefully I will be able to do more frequent reservoir water changes without wasting nutes as well. So I ran all of the drains to a single line and cut tubing to length for each table, the longest being 12 feet and the shortest three. Problems. Each table fill and drain in different amounts of time. So I decided to run a separate drain to the reservoir for each table thinking that the long drain tube and numerous tee sections where impeding the flow of water. So now I will have twelve separate hoses running to the reservoir. I need to make sure that each tray floods and drains in the same amount of time. What I am thinking about doing is cutting 12 hoses all to the same length, the length of the longest run needed and then coiling the shorter runs and ziptying them in a loop. Would this help to keep all of the fill and drain times the same?

As for the tables draining slowly, I think it may have been partially due do the tubing I was using. I was using black rubber hose with a relatively unsmooth inner surface. I pulled it all out and bought black flexible pvc. Hopefully the smoother inside surface will allow more water to drain quicker.

On another note, I attempted to fill my tables with lava rock and after unloading 300 pounds of it into the tables and trying to rinse it, I realized that it was just too dirty and gritty and would be causing frequent problems with the irrigation tubing. It only took me eight hours to everything cleaned up and the lava rock out of the op. Back to square one. So heres what Ive got: a bunch of plants in six inch rock wool cubes. Maybe I should just set the cubes in the trays and go without any other medium. I dunno where to go from here.
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  #220  
Old 06-03-2008, 12:36 AM
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Wow, Seattle, it sounds like you should switch to decaf.

That coiling of the hose idea is wacky, and probably won't work like you think, but I got a good laugh about it. The only way that I know to solve the uneven filling problem is to fill them until each is overflowing. That means adding an overflow drain to each bed, and another drain hose. The overflow drain is set higher, so it only drains when the bed is full. Then the pump shuts off, and the rest drains out the low drain.

Rockwool cubes are not best suited for flooding, especially 6 inch cubes. If you simply put the cubes in the beds, and flooded, you would need to flood only a couple of inches, and only once per day.

You can reduce the amount of solution required to flood by putting "spacers" in the bed where you don't have pots/plants. A spacer can be a brick or rock, or a plastic container filled with water, anything that will take up space so less nute solution is needed.

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