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Harvesting And Curing

More pre-harvest flushing info..

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forums; I remember when there was a big debate on a pre-harvest flush and I have recently found some really credible ...
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    Default More pre-harvest flushing info..

    I remember when there was a big debate on a pre-harvest flush and I have recently found some really credible information. It seems its best to lower your ppm for pre-harvest flushing anywhere from Id suppose anywhere from 300-500ppm of nutes if your using reverse osmosis water. If your using tap and or growing in soil I would think the ppm in the tap/soil would be enough. It is said 400-500ppm during flush but im sure you will be fine if those numbers fluctuate a bit. Just dont gorge them late in their life and you wont have lots of stored nutes!

    I will be trying this next time just for the simple reason I love trying new things and seeing their outcome. Shoot, thats how you learn! And we are all still doing that no matter the age. If you think you know it all already no matter who you are you are surely mistaken.

    Advanced - Flushing
    Standard nutrient flushing (clearing) formula

    If you are growing with chem ferts like GH flora or similar, you should clear the nutes during the last week of flowering. It will help the plant to use up its reserves stored away in its foliage, this lack of food will force the plant to translocate the extra nitogen and other elements stored in its tissues which will help the final smoke taste much better. No harsh chemical or "green" taste from the excess chlorophyll, nitrogen and other elements in the final smoke.

    The best way to accomplish this clearing is to feed only water for about the last week (or less) of flowering. Some people add a dash of blackstrap molasses to the clearing water as they believe it helps add to the finished flavors. One teaspoon (5ml) per gallon is the usual dose.

    If you have been growing the plant on organic nutrients then there is seldom a need to clear the plant since it has not taken up any foul tasting chemical nutrients. The extra N stored in the foliage will have been used up as part of the natural process of final budding.

    Note: These days there are several products on the "grow store" market which say they help the plants clear chemicals. Botanicare Clearex is one of these which users report great results using. My take is, if its not broke why fix it. Good old water does the trick.

    MisterIto's nutrient flushing formula

    It is best keeping as many leaves green on the plant until week 5 or 6. Then, metabolize the remaining minerals present in the plant during the final 2 or 3 weeks. Total dissolved solids in the final flushing solution is between 400-500ppm. In hydroponics, it is important not to reduce the solution ppm much lower, as this will shock the plants by causing reverse osmotic pressure on the roots. The plant stores excess nutrients in the plant tissue, that are available for photosynthesis. If there is a lack of available nutrients to the roots, the plant will access these reserves and the final product will burn, smell and taste far better.

    Summary:


    Preharvest flushing puts the plant(s) under serious stress. The plant has to deal with nutrient deficiencies in a very important part of its cycle. Strong changes in the amount of dissolved substances in the root-zone stress the roots, possibly to the point of direct physical damage to them. Many immobile elements are no more available for further metabolic processes. We are loosing the fan leaves and damage will show likely on new growth as well.

    The grower should react in an educated way to the plant needs. Excessive, deficient or unbalanced levels should be avoided regardless the nutrient source. Nutrient levels should be gradually adjusted to the lesser needs in later flowering. Stress factors should be limited as far as possible. If that is accomplished throughout the entire life cycle, there shouldn’t be any excessive nutrient compounds in the plants tissue. It doesn’t sound likely to the author that you can correct growing errors (significant lower mobile nutrient compound levels) with preharvest flushing.

    Drying and curing (when done right) on the other hand have proved (In many studies) to have a major impact on taste and flavour, by breaking down chlorophylls and converting starches into sugars. Most attributes blamed on unflushed buds may be the result of unbalanced nutrition and/or overfert and unproper drying/curing.
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    Scientia Cannabis Mr. Ganja k0ijn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr. green thumb 01 View Post
    Advanced - Flushing
    Standard nutrient flushing (clearing) formula

    If you are growing with chem ferts like GH flora or similar, you should clear the nutes during the last week of flowering. It will help the plant to use up its reserves stored away in its foliage, this lack of food will force the plant to translocate the extra nitogen and other elements stored in its tissues which will help the final smoke taste much better. No harsh chemical or "green" taste from the excess chlorophyll, nitrogen and other elements in the final smoke.

    The best way to accomplish this clearing is to feed only water for about the last week (or less) of flowering. Some people add a dash of blackstrap molasses to the clearing water as they believe it helps add to the finished flavors. One teaspoon (5ml) per gallon is the usual dose.

    If you have been growing the plant on organic nutrients then there is seldom a need to clear the plant since it has not taken up any foul tasting chemical nutrients. The extra N stored in the foliage will have been used up as part of the natural process of final budding.

    Note: These days there are several products on the "grow store" market which say they help the plants clear chemicals. Botanicare Clearex is one of these which users report great results using. My take is, if its not broke why fix it. Good old water does the trick.
    That paragraph is wrong on a lot of levels but most important on the assumption of "clearing up nutrients stored in the foliage".
    Nutrients are not stored in the calyx or any other plant tissue which we smoke.
    Nutrients are stored primarily in the roots and the stem(s).
    Some nutrients are stored in leaves.

    When mobile nutrients are transported to the calyxes they are used up almost instantly unless there is a severe abundance (overfeeding).

    Most veteran growers would never achieve such an abundance, most newbies don't even get such an abundance.

    By far the main reason for bad tasting weed, bad smelling weed, harsh weed etc. is a bad dry & cure.


    But the assumptions made by these people are wrong and not factual. Therefore irrelevant.

    Like this one: "No harsh chemical or "green" taste from the excess chlorophyll, nitrogen and other elements in the final smoke."
    Chlorophyll is 'cleared' from the dried calyxes by having a proper long drying period followed by a cure with attention to detail (keeping the RH at even levels and steadily bringing it down over a long period of time).


    I'd also like to bring up this quote:
    "If there is a lack of available nutrients to the roots, the plant will access these reserves and the final product will burn, smell and taste far better."

    That is utter nonsense.

    The roots are the primary nutrient storage 'unit' of the plant if you will.
    The roots are the first tissue of the plant to react to the nutrients available (or missing).
    Again, nutrients are not stored in the calyxes (the part of the plant we smoke). There are nutrients stored in the stem and roots primarily.
    All you're doing by removing the nutrients is hurting the plant, the most important parts of the plant at that (shocking the roots, breaking the flow through the phloem and xylem and degrading the fan leaves).
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    Finally,moment common sense
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    Quote Originally Posted by k0ijn View Post
    That paragraph is wrong on a lot of levels but most important on the assumption of "clearing up nutrients stored in the foliage".
    Nutrients are not stored in the calyx or any other plant tissue which we smoke.
    Nutrients are stored primarily in the roots and the stem(s).
    Some nutrients are stored in leaves.

    When mobile nutrients are transported to the calyxes they are used up almost instantly unless there is a severe abundance (overfeeding).

    Most veteran growers would never achieve such an abundance, most newbies don't even get such an abundance.

    By far the main reason for bad tasting weed, bad smelling weed, harsh weed etc. is a bad dry & cure.


    But the assumptions made by these people are wrong and not factual. Therefore irrelevant.

    Like this one: "No harsh chemical or "green" taste from the excess chlorophyll, nitrogen and other elements in the final smoke."
    Chlorophyll is 'cleared' from the dried calyxes by having a proper long drying period followed by a cure with attention to detail (keeping the RH at even levels and steadily bringing it down over a long period of time).


    I'd also like to bring up this quote:
    "If there is a lack of available nutrients to the roots, the plant will access these reserves and the final product will burn, smell and taste far better."

    That is utter nonsense.

    The roots are the primary nutrient storage 'unit' of the plant if you will.
    The roots are the first tissue of the plant to react to the nutrients available (or missing).
    Again, nutrients are not stored in the calyxes (the part of the plant we smoke). There are nutrients stored in the stem and roots primarily.
    All you're doing by removing the nutrients is hurting the plant, the most important parts of the plant at that (shocking the roots, breaking the flow through the phloem and xylem and degrading the fan leaves).
    man, excellent post m8.. i couldn't agree any more.. pretty much spelled the whole thing out...

    and doesn't the op find it odd to call what some nutrient company who are trying to sell you one of their products has to say on the subject that they're trying to sell you legitimate?? that's like saying an doesn't lie on it's labels in order to sell you more of it...
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    Your opinion(s) has been noted but you are disagreeing with people that have more credibility and more experience & knowledge growing cannabis then you so I guess they just pulled that stuff out of their ass's along with everything else on that website. But you apparently are one who knows it all already so it would be pointless for you to try anything different then what you have been doing. Carry on now ya hear.. One love!

    Just to add I am one who flushes with PLAIN RO water but I am always willing to try different & new things.

    THIS IS HOW WE LEARN

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    Again, one love
    Last edited by mr. green thumb 01; 09-28-2012 at 12:30 PM.
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    Moddamn it! Mr. Ganja obijohn's Avatar
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    This issue can be debated til the cows come home, but the only way to know is to try it both ways. I have and am convinced flushing males no difference
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    Flush your turds not your plants.
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    there is no reason to flush...didnt we just discuss this on the ''didnt flush'' thread? FLUSHING IS A WASTE OF TIME AND (more importantly) WASTE OF POTENTIAL YIELD (as your only hurting your plant)...what are you ''flushing'' anyways? how are you going to ''flush'' a plant? does it have a lever like a toilet? dumping an absurd amount of water on a plant isnt called flushing friend, its called ''drowning''


    thanks have a wonderful day
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    Yeah, we "discussed it" and I honestly was on the side on a complete flush and im just saying I found this info and it explains it better then "flushing is for toilets" I could believe dropping to a very low ppm would be best for the plant as its not under to much stress but it is still required to access mobile nutrients. I know the whole "flushing is for toilets" is funny we get it but we are all here to try to learn new things.
    Last edited by mr. green thumb 01; 09-29-2012 at 12:07 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by aknight3 View Post
    dumping an absurd amount of water on a plant isnt called flushing friend, its called ''drowning''
    Yes, if you were in dirt you would be essentially drowning the plant. But not if in hydro. So dont go and make assumptions. My plants sit in all water with no medium. Lots of air. No drowning. Giving plain water is flushing it doesnt have to be drowning the plant. Your misunderstanding the concept of flushing or just trying to be funny but its not about dousing it with water or flushing it down a toilet. Its about removing nute build up in the soil thus causing the plant to access and use up some stored mobile elements. Im not saying flush and im not saying dont flush what im saying is LOWER YOUR PPM 1-2 weeks before harvest and you essentially get the both of both worlds. I mean I could be wrong but thats my whole understanding of all that flushing reading I did.

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