lighter, smokeable form of DMT

buckwheat1085

Well-Known Member
you know you can extract it from the colorado river toad by squeezing its poisons out and letting it dry.

they are a 150 buxx tho

would it be worth it?

also could i breed these things?
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
Dude, just don't do it... There is alot of other shit in toad venom.
You can only get a small amount from the frog, and its pretty cruel.
Just order some MHRB and extract... (get a dustmask too... I have a nose full of purple mimosa snot this morning cause I was too lazy to look for mine yesterday.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
I'm testing an easy straight to base method at the moment, will give you a writeup if it works... everything else I hve seen online was confusing to a beginner...
 

lurkmaster

Well-Known Member
Yes, you can breed them, they are called Bufo Alvarius toads

I think its illegal to take them from the wild.

Its called milking the venom.

You milk it onto a glass sheet and let it crystallize.

Now, when you smoke this you are smoking TOAD VENOM, which just so happens to have enough 5-MeO-DMT in it to make you trip, so don't expect some clean smoke. Pure DMT would be far better, if you could find some kind of purification method that would be awesome.

I really looked into this in the past then decided it wasn't worth all of the effort for a nasty smoke.

http://www.erowid.org/archive/sonoran_desert_toad/

has pretty much all the info you would need.
 

paradiddle

Active Member
I honestly don't think there is DMT in the bufo alvarius. I'm pretty sure it is 5-meo-dmt( which is close to dmt but hardly any visuals) and 5-ho-dmt(which is close but way more visuals than mind-trip)
MHRB is the way to go. It would be cool to have the frog, but not to extract its man juice...I could refer you to an EXCELLENT xtraction method if you need me to. just pm me for details...
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
Hey man its looking good so far... stand by for a writeup tommorrow.. its 1 AM over here... all I can say was cheap and easy, with no funny hard to get ingredients...
I just did a small extraction, got about 50mg half yellow half white xtals waiting for breakfast.
The white ones formed due to slower evaporation (in fact none beore I put it in freezer, also I let that bowl sit in the freezer 3 hourz before turning the temp to as cold as it will go... so it was cooled more gradualy... made some huge xtals I am still waiting on to dry also. I mean huge like in grape pip size.
 

floridasucks

Well-Known Member
Hey man its looking good so far... stand by for a writeup tommorrow.. its 1 AM over here... all I can say was cheap and easy, with no funny hard to get ingredients...
I just did a small extraction, got about 50mg half yellow half white xtals waiting for breakfast.
The white ones formed due to slower evaporation (in fact none beore I put it in freezer, also I let that bowl sit in the freezer 3 hourz before turning the temp to as cold as it will go... so it was cooled more gradualy... made some huge xtals I am still waiting on to dry also. I mean huge like in grape pip size.
thats awsome man... thankx.
 

floridasucks

Well-Known Member
Hey man its looking good so far... stand by for a writeup tommorrow.. its 1 AM over here... all I can say was cheap and easy, with no funny hard to get ingredients...
I just did a small extraction, got about 50mg half yellow half white xtals waiting for breakfast.
The white ones formed due to slower evaporation (in fact none beore I put it in freezer, also I let that bowl sit in the freezer 3 hourz before turning the temp to as cold as it will go... so it was cooled more gradualy... made some huge xtals I am still waiting on to dry also. I mean huge like in grape pip size.
thats awsome man... thanx.
 

floridasucks

Well-Known Member
Hey man its looking good so far... stand by for a writeup tommorrow.. its 1 AM over here... all I can say was cheap and easy, with no funny hard to get ingredients...
I just did a small extraction, got about 50mg half yellow half white xtals waiting for breakfast.
The white ones formed due to slower evaporation (in fact none beore I put it in freezer, also I let that bowl sit in the freezer 3 hourz before turning the temp to as cold as it will go... so it was cooled more gradualy... made some huge xtals I am still waiting on to dry also. I mean huge like in grape pip size.
thats awsome man... thanx for the info.
 

Dr.WhiteWeed

Well-Known Member
dude, i'm getting 2 in a few months. Make sure you have standing water for eggs! i would say very worth it for anyone who likes the edge of reality! ...deep
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
success was achieved about 45 minutes ago... was realy good, very smooth too... watch this space
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
Lol, sorry, some things I'm not prepared to photograph...

But here is the TEK.. rememebr it is not my TEK or anything... it is just a basic STB tek with a clear description of what you will be doing... something I think many of the TEKs fail in.

Grind up bark - turn distilled water into a strong base – dissolve bark in base – add naphtha and shake – draw naphtha – repeat last to steps x3 – combine naphtha – evap slowly – freeze slowly – collect xtals – dry – smoke.
Hi guys time for your MHRB extraction 101. I am going to skip past all the sciency stuff, and where such things do get mentioned, it will only be for the assistance of those who like such info.
Ok lets start with the bark, although many plants contain DMT, few are as easy to extract from as the mimosa hostillis.
A it contains almost only DMT and very little of the other alkaloids and tryptamines.
There are no wax and fats to deal with, which makes life easier for you. you will see plenty of teks using an acidic soak first, this is party to deal with the wax/lipid problem, and brings with it other problems like emulsifications etc…
So, what we are doing is called a STB (Straight to base) extraction followed by a freeze precipitation on the extraction.
With other teks like A/B (acid to base) you need to be careful about shaking and rolling your bottle just right or you end up with a nasty emulsion. I’m going to skip the explanation on polar solvents as it is not required knowledge to follow a recipe.
What you will need from the shops for this tek to start with (remember there are various stages of getting more and more stuff form your root bark pulp), is the following.
Distilled water 1 liter
2 x Naphtha (lighter fluid) the type for lighters like zippos… It has to say petroleum distillate on the bottle, everything else is junk and contain a number of other solvents. The brand I’m using is Ronsonol. It comes in a small tin with just over 100ml inside, so you’ll need 2.
Caustic soda also known as lye, can get it from any hardware shop, is normally used as drain cleaner and degreaser, get a nice little tub with a sealing lid, the stuff is useless if it start drawing moisture…which happens with the bags. Lye in its pure form is a very strong base… strong enough to dissolve your body in or loose your eyes with, do not play around with it, DON’T TOUCH, have some vinegar on hand to neutralise spills, also wear clothes you can easily rip off without smearing, like something with buttons. If you spill on your hands, wash it off with water until it is no longer feeling soapy… soapy and slippery is a good sign of something being caustic… I would feel better if you wear protective eyewear until you get to the naphtha pulls stage. Please remove jewelry and avoid gloves that can keep liquid against your skin in the even of a spill/blowout
Yep, lighter fluid and drain cleaner is the only chemicals you will need, how neat is that?
Although I did a slightly smaller extraction, I suggest you do 50g of powdered bark for a first go… at the smaller scale the pulls are a little harder unless you have nifty glassware.
OK, now, lets start. If you are as unfortunate as me, you will need to grind up your bark by hand, I used a mortar and pestle, but if you are lucky you may use a spice or coffee grinder… Start by separating the bark’s inner and outer layer, you will use both, but the outer layer powders very easily and just gets in the way of grinding up the rest which is fibrous. After separating cut bark in nippets across the grain, about 2 or 3mm long, this is easy to grind down and the resulting fibers are small enough to be useable.
Raait, Go on till you have 50g of bark powder and fiber.
Make sure you have all the ingredients above before proceeding.
Also get some syringes or pipettes to draw up naphtha with, go for like a 20ml if you can, or bigger even, or a bag full of 10g ones.
Make sure you have a few glass dishes with flat bottoms & a large wine bottle/cooldrink bottle with as thin a neck as possible… This makes the standing column of liquid you will draw of later thicker… and thus easier to remove.
We will work with about 750ml of liquid maybe a bit less in the end. You will shake the bottle, and you don’t want to touch the stuff inside so it must be sealable with a cap.
Have coffee filter and something like a funnel to prop it up in ready* The filter is optional
Only other ingredient you need is time about a day…
Are you ready and amped? Is that kitchen counter and sink clean, all dishes packed away, vinegar out and some kitchen towels for quick cleanups?
Decant about 750ml of distilled water into your bottle… don’t fill it too high… the precise amount is not too critical.
Measure out 3 HEAPED teaspoons of lye into a little cup you can scoop from again…
Now add this in half teaspoon increments to the water and stir till dissolved… this is an exothermic reaction… the water will heat up.. if you go too fast it will boil out and may even crack your bottle… take your time, work safely, the bottle gets more dangerous with every drop of lye added. If you manage to get all that dissolved rather easily add a little more lye, see if you can get it almost saturated… If you have a digital pH meter, aim for pH about 13…remember to feel the bottle in between for overheating… a bucket or sink with cool water is handy for cooling down.

*Optional step filter this into another bottle throug the coffee filter....

So, now you have this bottle of very alkaline water (great as alkaline solutions will dissolve alkaloids).
Pour out some down the sink, so you clear about at least an inch or so of space in the thin part of the neck to add the bark and naphtha into.
Once you add the bark, you are committed to the process and will have to follow it trough till you are done, so you will need the whole day… fast work, though possible, leaves nasty spice.
Remember to never leave your bottle sealed for more than a few seconds without opening to degas, failure could lead to the bottle bursting, leaving your kitchen a purple mess.
Pour in your bark, put the cap on and shake it like you’re having a seizure. Loosen the cap so it can degas.
Shake it again every 5 minutes until 50 minutes lapsed.
Find a bucket or a water jug that is tall enough to hold your bottle in, fill with hot water from tap… add cold water if you can’t leave your hand in the water for 10 seconds without burning, until you can.
Now add about 30ml of naphtha to the bottle the exact amount isn’t too important, less is more, but less is harder too.
Shake it like a crazyperson again and leave the bottle standing in the hot water bath.
Shake and replace back in water at 10 and 20 minutes, at 30 minutes you should have 2 pretty distinct layers. The heat helps the solvent work better, but you do not want to go over 50C.
Now draw the "clear" naphtha layer off the top using a syringe or pipette (you want none of the brown/black stuff underneath)
Pour the pulled of naphtha into one of your flat base glass trays. (get something smallish, but big enough so you can clean it with a flat razor, knife tips works horribly). A petri dish will work awesomely as it also has less air space in to draw water and it has a lid.
Check the temp of your water bath add 30 ml of naphtha again, shake and do the ten minute shake with hot water bath in between again. At 30 minutes pull naphtha again
In total you do 3 draws like that adding the pulled naphtha together in the one container…
SLOWLY evaporate this, in a coolish place, in front of a fan, is asking for shit, you will get small yellow spice. Slow and steady is the way to go. At some point the evaporation will slow down, and the naphtha will go milky if you blow on it. Remember to keep the container as still as possible with as little vibration as you can.
Now seal the container with salad wrapping or a lid if it has one. And place in the fridge for an hour then into the freezer. After about 1 hour in the freezer, adjust the freezer to the coldest setting it will go… (higher number normally equals colder).
As soon as the first container with 3 pulls in is starting to evap, you can start the next set of 3 pulls. Collecting them in another container… follow the same steps for cooling, except with this one the freezer will probably be cold already by the time the stuff gets in there… it will still be better than just hitting it into the cold freezer quickly.
For day one you should aim for about sets of 3 pulls… so you will have 3 containers freeze perciping when you are done…
You can do more, but there are other methods of extracting the rest from the bottle later… so don’t throw it away.
After an hour to a day, depending how cold your freezer gets, the first little xtals should start forming, try not to touch your containers or shake them until you see a good few xtals. Better yet, go to bed and wait till tomorrow.
Before going to bed, stick a plate or something to collect xtals onto, in a Tupperware dish (to keep it dry and help prevent xtals melting at collection time), also throw your blade in there…, keep it all in the freezer, collect xtals in the coldest place you can manage.... Alternatively scrape all xtals to one side in the dish, let it stand at an angle to settle, rotate slowly and draw naphta off away from xtals, let last bits come out with gravity and evaporation...
Let it stand and dry out, don’t scratch and shit, you’ll just dirty it up and spread it thin, if it looks like it wants to melt, just be patient, it will dry out soon enough, those sinking droplets that look like fat is only water… DMT is not water soluble, so you just need to wait for the water to dissolve.
And there you have beautiful smokeable DMT xtals which are pretty smooth on the throat and chest.
 

shepj

Oracle of Hallucinogens
you know you can extract it from the colorado river toad by squeezing its poisons out and letting it dry.

they are a 150 buxx tho

would it be worth it?

also could i breed these things?
this would be 5-MeO-DMT if I am not mistaken... not DMT.
 

Gastanker

Well-Known Member
Here is a write-up I had to do for a bio class I took on toxins:
Def extract and dry the toxins - if you simply lick the toad you are getting high dosages of bufo toxins which make you trip in a -'I'm sick and might be dying way' versus smoking the dried material with most of these toxins neutralized - the paper didn't cover the bufo toxins as they are obviously not as interesting.


Bufo alvarius
(Colorado River Toad/Sonoran Desert Toad)
Bufo alvarius is the largest North American toad, dwelling in the Sonoran Desert regions of Arizona, California, New Mexico, and Baja California. B. Alvarius is a nocturnal carnivore, eating small desert species including insects, other toads, and small rodents and reptiles.4 B. Alvarius has few predators due to a potent toxin it produced in external skin glands known as parotoid glands. The majority of toads and some salamanders possess these parotoid glands however the consistency of toxin varies greatly. B. Alvarius possesses a particular toxin known as 5-methoxy-dimethyltryptamine, a powerful tryptamine.5
Trytamine is a monomine alkaloid related to the amino acid tryptophan, a neuromodulator found in the brains of mammals. In 5-methoxy-dimethyltryptamine the tryptamine acts similar to tryptophan in mimicking the effects of serotonin – a monoamine neurotransmitter found in serotonergic neurons in the CNS. Serotonin plays a role in modulating anger, aggression, body temperature, mood, sleep, sexuality, appetite, metabolism, and stimulation of vomiting .1 B. Alvarius’s toxin targets the 5-HT2A receptors found widely throughout the CNS with large gatherings in the neocortex (primarily parietal, prefrontal, and somatosensory cortex) as well as the in portions of the cortex that regulate cognitive processes.2,3 The trytamine acts as a partial agonist, binding to many of the 5-HT2A receptor sites and mimics the effects of high dosages of serotonin.6
Trytamine, unlike serotonin, is able to cross the blood-brain barrier; as levels escalate in the parietal lobe they upset regular integration of sensory information often “blending senses” such as vision and sound. Additionally, the parietal lobe coordinates the visual mapping of objects and their positions, both of which are effected by the higher levels of trytamine: producing symptoms of disorientation. In essence the toxin causes an overload of thought and perception causing the receiver to experience great confusion allowing the toad to escape.

3 Cook EH, Fletcher KE, Wainwright M, Marks N, Yan SY, Leventhal BL (August 1994). "Primary structure of the human platelet serotonin 5-HT2A receptor: identity with frontal cortex serotonin 5-HT2A receptor". J. Neurochem. 63 (2): 465–9. doi:10.1046/j.1471-4159.1994.63020465.x. PMID 8035173
5 Daly, John, and Bernhard Witkop 1971. Chemistry and Pharmacology of Frog Venoms. In Venomous Vertebrates, edited by Wolfgang Bucherl and Eleanor buckley, pp. 497-519. Venomous Animals and Their Venoms, vol. 2. Academic Press, New York.
2 Hoyer D, Hannon J, Martin G (2002). "Molecular, pharmacological and functional diversity of 5-HT receptors". Pharmacol Biochem Behav 71 (4): 533–54. doi:10.1016/S0091-3057(01)00746-8. PMID 11888546
4 Stebbins, Robert C. 1954. Amphibians and Reptiles of Western North America. pp.101-102, 115, 144. New York, McGraw-Hill
6 Zhu BT (2005). "Mechanistic explanation for the unique pharmacologic properties of receptor partial agonists". Biomed. Pharmacother. 59 (3): 76–89. doi:10.1016/j.biopha.2005.01.010. PMID 15795100
 
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