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  #1    
Old 05-28-2008, 02:32 PM
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Default wall air conditioner question
Hello all,
I've been looking desperately to improve my yields. I am doubting everything I have now, and this time is the ventilation issue.

I have a wall 12K BTU Air conditioner in each one of my rooms. I figured, these were great since it would cool my rooms and dehumidify. These units are the older kind (the new kind are digital, so if there's a power outtage, they stay off... these go back on), with the "ventilation" option set in OPEN.

I have no exhaust or intake.... have been growing like that all the time.

Is it enough ventilation??/
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  #2    
Old 05-28-2008, 03:00 PM
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What is the CO2 PPM of your flower rooms?

If you dont know what I am talking about then yes, you need fresh air.
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Old 05-28-2008, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fanatic View Post
Hello all,
I've been looking desperately to improve my yields. I am doubting everything I have now, and this time is the ventilation issue.

I have a wall 12K BTU Air conditioner in each one of my rooms. I figured, these were great since it would cool my rooms and dehumidify. These units are the older kind (the new kind are digital, so if there's a power outtage, they stay off... these go back on), with the "ventilation" option set in OPEN.

I have no exhaust or intake.... have been growing like that all the time.

Is it enough ventilation??/
You should really keep the doors to your rooms open as much as possible and of course direct the flow of cool and hot air with fans. Keeping your plants in mind the whole time. Weed certainly likes fresh clean air and it wouldn't hurt to correct your ventilation problems with a intake and outtake that provides the clean air and rids both rooms of smells. Carbon scrubber maybe. You could use bungee cords to secure a filter to a everyday square fan. This might help with cleanliness and promote better yields.
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Old 05-30-2008, 10:47 AM
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The C2 PPM in the rooms are between 450 and 550.... I have CO2 generators, but I do not use them.... they were more trouble than help.


My main concern was the capability for venting of each 12K btu air conditioner. Do you think is enough???
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Old 06-06-2008, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fanatic View Post
The C2 PPM in the rooms are between 450 and 550.... I have CO2 generators, but I do not use them.... they were more trouble than help.


My main concern was the capability for venting of each 12K btu air conditioner. Do you think is enough???

Any juice container will work, or any container with a tight fitting lid for that matter. However, some containers work better than others. I've always had good results with juice containers whereas some of the other containers I've tried (like the big iced tea jugs) don't make an airtight seal when closed. You can use any size, however 48-64 ounce containers are a good size. They fit the 2 cups sugar called for in most recipes and don't take up a huge amount of space. The bigger the generator, the more water there is which dilutes the alcohol byproduct that eventually kills the yeast, so larger containers will last longer as long as you add the same amount of ingredients. The tubing can be any kind of airline tubing, however standard airline tubing will eventually go hard and crack from exposure to CO2. Using silicone or CO2 resistant tubing is best. A drill is nice, but if you don't have one, the same result can be achieved with a nail or screw.

Step 1
Drill a hole in the lid smaller than the diameter of the tubing, but large enough so you think you'll be able to squeeze it through. I use a smaller drill bit and then widen the hole with a pair of aquarium tweezers. Remember you can only make the hole larger, so don't get overzealous.
Step 2
Cut the end of the tubing on a diagonal and push it through the hole in the lid as shown, using tweezers or pliers to grab it on the other side and pull it through. If it doesn't seem to fit, make your hole bigger. If you don't need pliers or tweezers, the hole is too big and CO2 will leak out. If this happens, you need a new container (or at least a new lid). Pull it through only a half an inch or less.

Step 3
This is the finished cap and tubing. The seal should be tight enough to prevent leakage. There is no need for glue or silicone if it is done right. Just screw the lid on and you're ready to mix up your yeast solution!
The Final Product: A DIY Yeast Generator

There are a few important things to remember about DIY yeast generators.
  • First, they are under pressure. Although it is highly unlikely they will burst, it does happen if the tubing gets clogged. Make sure the gas has a clear path to your tank. Some people add a check-valve between the tank and the generator to prevent yeast bubbles and goo from going up the tubing. Personally I've never had this happen and adding a check valve only makes another possible leakage point. As long as you don't overfill or shake up your mixture, it shouldn't get into the tubing.
  • Also remember that if you squeeze the bottle (even gently), once you release it, it will suck up aquarium water. This can form a siphon and once it does, aquarium water will flood your generator. This will ruin the reaction (other bacteria and organisms in the water will out-compete the yeast) and can make a big mess. So be careful and set the generator down before screwing on the lid and connecting it to the tank.
  • Finally, a DIY yeast generator is a rather low powered CO2 generator, so diffusing all that CO2 most effectively and stopping leaks is paramount. One leak can make the whole thing not work. A cheap idea for diffusing the CO2 in the tank (called a reactor) is to put the tubing from the generator into the input of a power head or canister filter. The impeller will suck up and pulverize the CO2 bubbles, creating a fine mist that will dissolve much faster. Look for an article soon on the different type of CO2 reactors!



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  #6    
Old 06-06-2008, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b549420 View Post
Any juice container will work, or any container with a tight fitting lid for that matter. However, some containers work better than others. I've always had good results with juice containers whereas some of the other containers I've tried (like the big iced tea jugs) don't make an airtight seal when closed. You can use any size, however 48-64 ounce containers are a good size. They fit the 2 cups sugar called for in most recipes and don't take up a huge amount of space. The bigger the generator, the more water there is which dilutes the alcohol byproduct that eventually kills the yeast, so larger containers will last longer as long as you add the same amount of ingredients. The tubing can be any kind of airline tubing, however standard airline tubing will eventually go hard and crack from exposure to CO2. Using silicone or CO2 resistant tubing is best. A drill is nice, but if you don't have one, the same result can be achieved with a nail or screw.

Step 1
Drill a hole in the lid smaller than the diameter of the tubing, but large enough so you think you'll be able to squeeze it through. I use a smaller drill bit and then widen the hole with a pair of aquarium tweezers. Remember you can only make the hole larger, so don't get overzealous.
Step 2
Cut the end of the tubing on a diagonal and push it through the hole in the lid as shown, using tweezers or pliers to grab it on the other side and pull it through. If it doesn't seem to fit, make your hole bigger. If you don't need pliers or tweezers, the hole is too big and CO2 will leak out. If this happens, you need a new container (or at least a new lid). Pull it through only a half an inch or less.

Step 3
This is the finished cap and tubing. The seal should be tight enough to prevent leakage. There is no need for glue or silicone if it is done right. Just screw the lid on and you're ready to mix up your yeast solution!
The Final Product: A DIY Yeast Generator

There are a few important things to remember about DIY yeast generators.
  • First, they are under pressure. Although it is highly unlikely they will burst, it does happen if the tubing gets clogged. Make sure the gas has a clear path to your tank. Some people add a check-valve between the tank and the generator to prevent yeast bubbles and goo from going up the tubing. Personally I've never had this happen and adding a check valve only makes another possible leakage point. As long as you don't overfill or shake up your mixture, it shouldn't get into the tubing.
  • Also remember that if you squeeze the bottle (even gently), once you release it, it will suck up aquarium water. This can form a siphon and once it does, aquarium water will flood your generator. This will ruin the reaction (other bacteria and organisms in the water will out-compete the yeast) and can make a big mess. So be careful and set the generator down before screwing on the lid and connecting it to the tank.
  • Finally, a DIY yeast generator is a rather low powered CO2 generator, so diffusing all that CO2 most effectively and stopping leaks is paramount. One leak can make the whole thing not work. A cheap idea for diffusing the CO2 in the tank (called a reactor) is to put the tubing from the generator into the input of a power head or canister filter. The impeller will suck up and pulverize the CO2 bubbles, creating a fine mist that will dissolve much faster. Look for an article soon on the different type of CO2 reactors!



Not my own writing..... do some research man... thats why you have search engines... sleeping with your plants will provide c02.
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  #7    
Old 06-07-2008, 08:17 PM
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rep for you for the "easier" co2 distributor article. co2 is easy to make. utilizing it effectively is the key.
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