which is better 240v or 120v

Originally Posted by kamie

hey total if i was to use this powerbox http://www.ehydroponics.com/powerbox...?sel_size=2580 and use the 3 prong cord since my dryer outlet is 3 prong, i'll be okay since i'll be running all the ballast at 240v correct?

yes

• ETL Listed for use in the United States and Canada
• Built-in digital timer with battery backup
• Six timed 240-volt outlets (6-15r)
• Outlets 5 & 6 switchable to constant power
• Heavy-duty contactor relay to control load switching
• Detachable trigger cord can override the built-in timer, so Powerbox™ can be controlled by other devices

• 5' main power cord, hardwire or plug & play (10-30p or 14-30p)
• Durable powder coated seamless steel enclosure
• All components mounted from the inside for smooth outer surfaces and tight seals to keep out moisture
• Keyhole tabs for easy mounting
• Hand-built at our California factory, 5 year warranty, Legendary Powerbox™ Quality

Originally Posted by F A B

u are not charged for volts but watts so no money savings

yep. and just cause you use 240v doesn't mean you can pull more off your breaker panel. 240v is using 2 legs wile 120v is only using 1 leg. so a 100amp panel will give you 100amps at 240v or 200amps at 120v or a combination of both. 240v allows you to run your electronics more efficiently and cooler. as well, it means smaller wire and load to those outlets.

Originally Posted by kamie:7622372

Originally Posted by Total.Hydroponic.Control

The difference between a 4 prong and 3 prong is that with the 3 prong you have two ungrounded "hot" conductors, and a bonded nuetral/grounding conductor. A 4 prong has the same 3 wires, except the neutral and equipment grounding conductor are run seperate, as they are required to throughout the rest of your house.

The white, grounded conductor, otherwise known as the neutral, carries the imbalanced load of the two hot conductors. If you are running just ballasts with the 240 volts you don't require the neutral, there is no unbalanced load to carry. HOWEVER, if you plan to take the 240 volts and separate the legs at a sub panel in your grow room, you'll want to run a 4 wire configuration, as its unsafe to depend upon the green equipment grounding conductor to become a path for current.

In older dryers they bonded the two together within the dryer, while the practice was legal for a number of years, new installations in most states require following the NEC, which has now been updated to require all 4 wire be brought to any dryer outlet, even if they are not used.

From a garden standpoint, bringing over 4 wires ensures that your grounding path, and your unbalanced current path are seperated. Technically they are at the same potential, and bonded back at the main panel anyway, but its added protection in the case of equipment failures. If for some reason the neutral were to open up, yet the ungrounded hot conductors did not, and the frame of a ballast became energized, you'd still have the equipment grounding conductor to take the fault current back to your main panel and cause the circuit breaker to trip.

I have yet to see a ballast manufacturer offer a 4 prong cordset. Either they are bonding the neutral and grounding conductor inside the ballast case, just as they did with older dryers, OR more likely, there is no unbalanced load and a neutral isn't needed.

hey total if i was to use this powerbox http://www.ehydroponics.com/powerbox...?sel_size=2580 and use the 3 prong cord since my dryer outlet is 3 prong, i'll be okay since i'll be running all the ballast at 240v correct?

Correct.. as long as you have no plans to split off either leg to utilize the 120 volts to ground, you'll be fine.

Originally Posted by ScoobyDoobyDoo:7622460

Originally Posted by F A B

u are not charged for volts but watts so no money savings

yep. and just cause you use 240v doesn't mean you can pull more off your breaker panel. 240v is using 2 legs wile 120v is only using 1 leg. so a 100amp panel will give you 100amps at 240v or 200amps at 120v or a combination of both. 240v allows you to run your electronics more efficiently and cooler. as well, it means smaller wire and load to those outlets.

Running 240 vs 120 does NOT reduce the heat. Elecrical losses are electrical losses regardless of voltage. The ballast has a fixed power consumption, along with fix electronic losses. You quoted watts being watts, and you are correct, however to tell someone that running a ballast at a higher voltage will mean cooler output is wrong. The temperature difference between the two operating voltages will be negligible. A watt is a watt... A watt of heat at 120 volts generates the same heat as a watt at 240 volts.

Unless circuit conductors are overloaded at 120 volts, moving to 240 volts will do nothing to decrease temperatures.

Originally Posted by Total.Hydroponic.Control

Running 240 vs 120 does NOT reduce the heat. Elecrical losses are electrical losses regardless of voltage. The ballast has a fixed power consumption, along with fix electronic losses. You quoted watts being watts, and you are correct, however to tell someone that running a ballast at a higher voltage will mean cooler output is wrong. The temperature difference between the two operating voltages will be negligible. A watt is a watt... A watt of heat at 120 volts generates the same heat as a watt at 240 volts.

Unless circuit conductors are overloaded at 120 volts, moving to 240 volts will do nothing to decrease temperatures.

i think u are mistaken i qouted what the other guy said
i just said watts is watts

It was in reference to scoobydoos comment.

Originally Posted by Total.Hydroponic.Control

It was in reference to scoobydoos comment.

ok just making sure no one thought that was my position lol

peace