Best Place for my air in vents

**abcgt** · 06-08-2012, 01:47 AM

Ok, I'm starting over with my room build, did more reading and with the help of you all I am almost done. I just have a question about the incoming air. This room is in a basement that has a good air flow through 4 vents of its own. The room I made is about 1 foot away from one of them. ( very old house ) I have to deal with the floor being rocks and some dirt. It's more of a storage area. Ok, back to my question. The vent is about 4 feet high and generally vents for grow rooms are positioned at the bottom. Would it be advisable to have vents at the bottom and not up 4 feet? I do have an 6" Inline with a Canister that I can exhaust out. What makes more sense?

Thanks

**delvite** · 06-08-2012, 01:54 AM

intake at the bottom, try and get the fresh air to spread across the bottom of your grow room, out take / extraction at the top, hot air rises and you want this extracted from the highest point in your room

**abcgt** · 06-08-2012, 02:11 AM

Thanks, I kept reading that over and over but I was over thinking it.

**delvite** · 06-08-2012, 02:13 AM

Originally Posted by abcgt

Thanks, I kept reading that over and over but I was over thinking it.

...............................we growers do tend to do this ( overthink/complicate/confuse )

**problemsolver** · 06-08-2012, 02:33 AM

Originally Posted by delvite

intake at the bottom, try and get the fresh air to spread across the bottom of your grow room, out take / extraction at the top, hot air rises and you want this extracted from the highest point in your room

Have you ever tried a high pressure ventilation scenario? If you intake the air passively from the top ( just slightly above the level line of the bottoms of the reflectors) and exhaust at the opposite end just a few inches above that level (still at the top of the room slightly above the lights), the bulk of the rooms air exhaust movement is concentrated up top where hot air rises on its own but even more so due to the pressure differential between the top and bottom of the room. I use this scenario in 2 of my 6 x 600 rooms. I simply make up for the lack of air movement below the canopy with one extra oscillating fan. By doing this unconventional method, the hotspots which normally generate concentrically around the bulb ( yet a disproportionate amount of the heat from this concentric hotspot tends to migrate downward because of the light reflector, giving off eccentrically orientated heat dissipation into the canopy) will instead expand eccentrically in the direction of the high pressure system above the reflectors, away from the canopy.

**delvite** · 06-08-2012, 02:38 AM

Originally Posted by problemsolver

Have you ever tried a high pressure ventilation scenario? If you intake the air passively from the top ( just slightly above the level line of the bottoms of the reflectors) and exhaust at the opposite end just a few inches above that level (still at the top of the room slightly above the lights), the bulk of the rooms air exhaust movement is concentrated up top where hot air rises on its own but even more so due to the pressure differential between the top and bottom of the room. I use this scenario in 2 of my 6 x 600 rooms. I simply make up for the lack of air movement below the canopy with one extra oscillating fan. By doing this unconventional method, the hotspots which normally generate concentrically around the bulb ( yet a disproportionate amount of the heat from this concentric hotspot tends to migrate downward because of the light reflector, giving off eccentrically orientated heat dissipation into the canopy) will instead expand eccentrically in the direction of the high pressure system above the reflectors, away from the canopy.

heat will only drop/creap down the room if it is to humid and you dont have proper air flow. intake must not exceed extraction

**bird mcbride** · 06-08-2012, 02:38 AM

All of my intake and exhaust vent use blowers. I vent my intake to the top of the room and I exhaust at light level. I also vent canopy air under my table etc.

**problemsolver** · 06-08-2012, 02:51 AM

Originally Posted by delvite

heat will only drop/creap down the room if it is to humid and you dont have proper air flow. intake must not exceed extraction

I said passive intake, meaning just poke the appropriate sized holes for such purpose. No intake blowers. They would defeat the negative pressure aspect, of course, which is required for odor elimination. Also, have you tried this scenario? I use it and it works much,much better to control and reduce heat in my 2-6x600w rooms than the traditional" passive intake from the bottom/exhaust from the opposite side at the top" that I use in my other 2-6x600w rooms. I've done the side-by-side testing twice over.
This is basically how weather works in the good ol' atmosphere of our planet. .Yes, I have the appropriate airflow ( 3-10" HO CanFans)

**delvite** · 06-08-2012, 03:05 AM

Originally Posted by problemsolver

I said passive intake, meaning just poke the appropriate sized holes for such purpose. No intake blowers. They would defeat the negative pressure aspect, of course, which is required for odor elimination. Also, have you tried this scenario? I use it and it works much,much better to control and reduce heat in my 2-6x600w rooms than the traditional" passive intake from the bottom/exhaust from the opposite side at the top" that I use in my other 2-6x600w rooms. I've done the side-by-side testing twice over.
This is basically how weather works in the good ol' atmosphere of our planet. .Yes, I have the appropriate airflow ( 3-10" HO CanFans)

i get you now lol, i use temp controlled in take and standard 6" out take with can