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  #11  
Old 02-23-2008, 06:16 PM
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Pics & instructions wont really help much with your room,every room is different but i'll tell you what you need to do to do it right.

Before you mount any lights the first things you should be concerned with are fresh air intake & exhaust,you need to find a suitable spot to mount an intake fan to bring in fresh air,this helps keep the room cool,helps keep fresh air & co2 levels constant & also helps keep mold & mildew down,the air intake should be mounted at or near ground level.

After taking care of intake then you worry about room exhaust,your exhaust should be mounted as high as possible near the ceiling,heat rises & so does smell,you can atach your carbon filter exhaust to a dryer vent on the outside of the house but venting through your chimney is better because it puts the exhaust into the tree tops,any smell will break down before it reaches ground level.

Vent fans with built in wall mounted thermostat controls can be bought at any home depot in the roofing section,look for attic vent fans,these fans are $50 each with a 1700 cfm rating,no special wiring is needed,the entire fan & thermostat runs off 110 volt,unlike standard home thermostats that run off low voltage.

When buying ducting for your exhaust try not to get off cheap & quick by using flexible metal dryer vent,the ripples in the vent restrict air flow,instead hard pipe your exhaust & when making turns or bends keep the bends to a minimum angle,45 degree angles severly restrict air flow.

After everything is in place set up your light,being that you have temp controled air intake & exhaust you can use room air intake to cool your light but you still have the heat from the light to contend with,run a vent pipe from the exhaust side of your light to the ceiling area where your carbon filter is,not so close that the filter gets hot but close enough where the negative pressure in the room will pull the heat twords the exhaust.

Think about how your going to hang your light & vent pipes,also think about where you can tie back the power cords to the light so they are out of your work area,getting a bunch of threaded eye hooks,chain & S hooks works best for this.

Now you'll need a few other things,you need to circulate the air in the room to keep the plants moving,this helps stimulate growth & helps control spider mites,for this you need a oscalating fan,the bigger the better,a 20" fan works best & are $20 or less at family dollar.

You should also think about keeping the plants up off the floor,if its a basement grow the floor will be cold & affect the roots,having them up off the floor helps with positive air flow,do not skimp on air flow,if you cant think of anything to keep the pots off the floor standard milk crates work perfect.

The next thing is timers,when picking out timers only buy heavy duty 3 prong timers,the cheaper timers will melt if too much voltage is pulled through them,look at the package to be sure the timer is rated for the wattage of your light plus any other device attached,this is something you should buy 2 of incase one stop's working.

Now you'll need something for saftey,i know it sounds cheesy but better safe than sorry,especially for $20,you can buy outlet strips that have a circuit breaker,gfci & a fire protection circuit that senses if a line melts or shorts out & shuts everything down,for $20 at any home depot this is a no brainer.You should also have a smoke alarm in your room,they are only $5 at home depot,for $5 another no brainer,a $10 fire extenguisher isnt a bad idea either.

You should also have a 5 gallon bucket with a lid to keep water in,letting water sit over night helps get rid of chemicals in the water,then you get a fish tank air pump & attach an air stone to the line & drill a small hole in the bucket at the top so you can put the air line through & still be able to close the lid,the air stone will keep your water fresh.

You'll also need a ph test kit along with a bottle of ph up & a bottle of ph down,all of this can be bought at a fish store for around $20,properly ph'ed water is important.

Setting up your room depends on your room,instead of asking us for pics a better way would be to post pics of your room,including measurements of lengths & pics of where your getting power from & where you plan to have intake and exhaust.
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  #12  
Old 02-23-2008, 06:17 PM
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you need odor control? you need it diy?

Easy to Build DIY Carbon Filter

International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums - DIY pro style carbon filter
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  #13  
Old 02-23-2008, 06:19 PM
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International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums - ICMAG'S OFFICIAL ~DIY~ LINK-O-RAMA
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  #14  
Old 02-23-2008, 06:21 PM
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o yes I understand no no no the areo tub was to experiment with in the other room with I hate to say it Grafts and clones... {love to tinker and read about grafts} if you can clone you can graft...
o an I sat up lastnight and rewired the floresent tubes now have banks of 4 tubes inplace of banks of 2 tubes... the outside the room with the BIG light
Gosh I wish I could have you in the basement for a few house just to point and say ya hang that there and fish that threw there and and and ya know what I mean???
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  #15  
Old 02-23-2008, 06:26 PM
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well i remember the pictures, but i agree with panhead....do you have your electricity intact? meaning wiring and such.

i mean your only running one 1000 watt light, but i would suggest you run an additional 20 amp circuit from your breaker box!!! gfci preferably!
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Old 02-23-2008, 06:32 PM
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I have MrMcgreggor in the other room with MY welding goggles on. I better go and check on him befor HE melts the carpet... BUT I WILL BE BACK!!!!
please continue to add links and valid ideas on here I will print them out and study them... go to the room take pics and proper mesurments. then I shall ask more from there but IM NOT kidding I have to go I don't want to lose my NEW 1000watt hps bulb or melt a hole threw the carpet. thank all of you who have assisted thus far.
GREATLY appreciated.
I can't even run a spell check on this post
I GOT TO RUN
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  #17  
Old 02-23-2008, 08:24 PM
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gfci??? what the heck is a gfci? and so I take it if I made one BIG fat extension cord like I did to run my table saw and vacuum and router &&& ... that will not work here?
This is a LOT of information to digest.
BTW
Tucked MrMcGreggor in for the night... safer that way. the pretty new light box and ballast are back safe and sound in the basement. welding goggles are hidden. Carpet is fine. I am suprised at how cool that box stays. The glowing that was coming from the livingroom was so UNREAL! I felt like the aliens were landing...
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  #18  
Old 02-23-2008, 10:12 PM
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You can use an extension cord just make sure its rated for the correct amoun of amp you plan to run in your grow are.You did get a digital switchable ballast since they run both bulbs are silent running last longer weigh3 lbs put out more light and use less electric not to mention they are cheaper then magnetic now??Make sure if you use cords to figure light amps,pumps,fans and every other thing you will be running..the gfi plug is the kind that has a buyilt in breaker so if to big a draw comes it will pop a little button in the plug for saftey and not just burst into flames.
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  #19  
Old 02-24-2008, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrsMcGreggor View Post
gfci??? what the heck is a gfci?
You know what a GFCI is but you may not know it by name,you commonly see them in kitchens,bathrooms,laundry rooms ect,anywhere where there is water,they have a little red button that pops like a mini circuit breaker,a GFCI is a "Ground Fault Circuit Interupter" & offers very little in the way of fire protection,it's main intended use is to protect people from electrocution,it will in some cases blow before any arcing of wires can start a fire but in most cases its insufficient to prevent electrical fires,preventing fire is not its intended use.

What will stop any & all arcing of wires is an AFCI which is an Arc Fault Circuit Interupter,this device will stop electrical fire before they even start & are the best way to protect your grow area.

I just picked up 10 of these units from Home Depot for $15 each,they have a built in GFCI as well & can handle up to 1,700 watts each, you can plug up to 6 devices in each power strip.

The models i bought do not have a reset button for the AFCI,instead it uses a dedicated circuit board that senses any arcing within the line,then automatically frys the dedicated circuit making the device useless after it's done it's job,being that the unit cant be re powered this tells you that there is a problem within the line that needs attention.

Last edited by panhead; 02-24-2008 at 08:01 AM.
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  #20  
Old 02-24-2008, 10:33 AM
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I do as I am told to do.
check list.
measure room= 8 feet 10 inches accross
5 feet wide
6 feet high
door is 2 feet wide from the rock to the board.
don't laugh you try and figure out how to measure that hole proper.
keep an eye open for that plug in box above the room opening.
{thought I had one there but dident want to say till I was POSITIVE.}
and that roll of nice new wire wound up and hanging there well that
has to do with the plug in box. I will go back to that latter just notice it now.
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