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Originally Posted by magik*420

I just got my PH600 like 2 days ago from eseasongear.com!! Well is there anything you would recommend to try to prolong the life of it?? I was planning on picking up a Hanna in the near future.. But if you have any tips for keeping my PH600 alive through my first grow I would appreciate it!

KEEP THE PROBE MOIST WITH storing solution!(or 4.0 or 7.0)
I too just got one from eseasongear . (milwaukee PH51) and i do have to calibrate every single use ? i dont understand
i guess all pens are like this?
is it from shaking it to get excess water off it?
Do we HAVE to spend 130 or more for one that stays calibrated or are they all like this?
please and thank u.

We all know how important it is to maintaining the proper pH.

Here are some tips from Pinpoint
on how to maintain your pH meter
so that it is giving you the critical information you need
to maximize your yields.

Avoid placing the probe in RO or De-ionized water.
Contact with low ionic fluids
can cause the reference fluid in the probe to leak out
and shorten the life of the probe.

Clean the probe tip gently every 3–4 weeks
using a SOFT TOOTHBRUSH ONLY .
Push the probe tip down into the wet bristles
and rotate the probe 3–4 times, use Tapwater.

This will clean the inner surfaces of the probe
as well as the sensing glass
and reference junctions.
No other cleaners are necessary, or recommended.

Occasional replacement of the probe is necessary to maintain performance.

The probe should be discarded and replaced
when it can no longer be calibrated with 2 different calibration fluids.
If it takes more than 1 minute
to read between 4.0 to 7.0
then your probe is at the end of it's useful life
and should be replaced.

The useful life of a pH Probe
is approximately 18 months of continuous duty.

Important Points to Remember:


Most pH meters are NOT waterproof
and must be operated on a dry surface.
Liquid contact with the printed circuit board
may cause corrosion and void warranty.

The clear plastic cap must be removed from the tip of the probe
so that pH values can be measured.
A small amount of storage fluid may be expelled;
this is normal.

There may be some white salt
which is Potassium Chloride residue,
from the storage solution and forms
around the clear plastic cap.
This is normal,
and can be washed off
with tapwater.
(avoid contact with distilled or RO water)

Keep the sensing surface of the probe WET at all times.

If the probe is to be transported or stored,
the plastic cap must be filled with storage solution,
or 4.00 calibration fluid,
prior to being installed onto the probe.

Probe should be inserted at least 1 inch into the liquid to be measured.
Probe may be totally submerged if desired.

If several probes are used,
(i.e., pH and TDS, or several pH probes, etc.)
space the probes 3–4 inches apart,
so that the probes will not react with each other,
and yield erroneous readings.

Clean the sensing glass and reference junctions of the probe,
every few weeks by using only a wet soft toothbrush and tapwater.

Replace the probe at least every 18 months for optimum performance.

Check the calibration often to verify your pH readings.

Place the probe into 2 different calibration fluids,
(e.g. 7.00 & 4.00),
to verify that it can read the 2 fluids correctly.

Recalibrate the meter if either, or both,
of the 2 calibration fluids are displayed incorrectly.

Do not allow air bubbles to accumulate under a vertically installed electrode.

pH Probes

1. Glass body electrode versus Epoxy (plastic) body electrode: Glass body electrodes stand higher temperatures (typically 100 C against 80 C for plastic) and are more resistant to corrosive chemicals and solvents. They are easier to clean and are available in different shapes depending on the application. On the other hand plastic body electrodes are more rugged and the glass bulb is better protected.

2. Gel filled electrodes versus refillable electrodes: refillable electrodes last longer since electrolyte can be changed for repeated usage. The response is faster due to a greater outflow of electrolyte into the sample and therefore less likely to clog. Gel filled electrodes require less maintenance and resist to higher pressure.

.

I use this Hanna Gro-Check.
http://www.altgarden.com/store/cart....t_detail&p=430
on this site it is only $90 and it is cheaper if you look around. I calibrate once a month and it is never off by more than .05. Just doing basic maintinence of rinsing it off after every use and storing in ro water. I know what the above post said, but when I contacted Hanna on proper storage and they told me to store in 7.0 solution or ro water. I have had it now for 9 months and it works great. Just another suggestion in this long list.

Just an update for anyone thinking of purchasing the Cool tube I previously posted about. It comes with a cord that is designed to attach to their own brand of ballast(Hydrofarm). My buddy had to remove that cord and wire in the cord that came with his own ballast.

Funny thing is, if you go directly to the manufacturer of the cool tube, its twice as much than buying through www.dchydro.com

You can usually get adapter cords. I had 2 get 1 when I got my last reflector and ballast.

Originally Posted by Earl

This RO machine will remove the Calcium from your water
giving you better yields in hydro or soil.
Much more than just a chlorine filter.
Under $100.

link: http://www.purewaterclub.com/

.

why is calcium bad? I though we were trying to give the plants calcium? (cal-mag, etc)

What else does this gizmo do? What are the noticable benefits?

Originally Posted by thatndnguy

Heres one for...... This Dual 30" Air Cooled Super Yield Hydrotek 2000W System is a complete system that comes equipped with two 1000 watt HPS bulb, an Air Cooled Cylinder Reflector, along with two Hydrotek ballasts. The ballasts are offered with a 5 year manufacturer's warranty. It's two 1000 watters in a single air cooled cylinder. Price is $399.00 Thought that was grrrrreat. Peace.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...%3DI%26otn%3D2

I wonder if theres a way to saw that thing in half and add some filler hose to spread those appart

I think the best idea would be to put one of the bulbs in a cool sun reflector.

Hell, i wonder what they would sell just the bulbs and the ballasts for... then a person could get some reflectors that are worth a damn.

Ill tell ya what else... at the bottom of the ebay page, they have another similar setup, running 2 400 watt bulbs... and its almost 400 bucks.... something is fishy

Calcium Cafbonate is found in all water that comes from an underground source..
known as well water, which is what most most city tapwater is.

Calcium carbonate will bond with the Mg (magnesium) in your nutrients or soil.

Some dirt farmers try to overcome this Mg lock out
by adding large amounts of Mg in the form of epsom salt.

This may work for a short time,
but the salt will build up and ruin the soil.

The best water is from the clouds
or water that has been steam evaporated,
or processed by reverse osmosis.

Pure water is vital to your plants ability to uptake nutrients,
whether you are growing in dirt or hydro.

Good water will make you look like a Great farmer.


.

Originally Posted by Earl

Calcium Cafbonate is found in all water that comes from an underground source..
known as well water, which is what most most city tapwater is.

Calcium carbonate will bond with the Mg (magnesium) in your nutrients or soil.

.

Thanks for that info... so how much water can that thing filter, and do you hook it up to your res, or do you have to purify your water and store it in a big trash can, prior to adding any nutes to it?

Is it only calcium that it filters or other stuff too? THanks

I bought one from the same site as earl. here and I love it!! (thanx earl)

I bought the small portable one and it is too easy to install and use. It's R/O di so it pretty much leaves the water stripped. It cranks out plenty of water for my grow! and then some.