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Put the intake and exhaust on a thermostatically controlled outlet so that they only come on when it is cost efficient to bring outside air in. If it's 90 degrees outside i'd rather not bring that air in and try to cool it down. So the power from the cooling outlet of the CHHC-1 will split. One will go to the AC which will always be on. The other will go to a thermostatically controlled outlet that only supplies power to the intake and exhaust when the outside temp is below 70 degrees. Since I'm using a CO2 tank to supply the plants CO2, the outside air isn't required. And yes I will be running the lights at night. You could get even fancier and use only outside air when it's cold outside with another thermostatically controlled outlet but I'm just working on the first step for now. I also like the idea of using both AC and ventilation to bring the temp down quickly so the cooling period is shorter and the CO2 "marinate" period is longer. Cons to this setup would be that if your air filter is attached to your exhaust the air inside the room would only be cleansed when the room temp reached a certain level. The room would have to be sealed very well to prevent odor leakage. This is the thermostatically controlled outlet that I had in mind: Ranco Adjustable Digital Thermostat http://www.littlegreenhouse.com/accessory/controls.shtml Does anyone have this setup already? Thoughts on the concept? Last edited by KnowledgeSeeker; 09-04-2009 at 10:34 AM.. |
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#3
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I like the sound of it. More sensors equals more control. I just bought a motorized damper to keep the hot outside air from entering the room during the day and plan to run it on a timer. Even better still, I'd have an outside temperature sensor and control device dictating when to open and close it. Since my room has two sources of fresh air, one being an indoor AC vent, I think this is going to help quite a bit.
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“Under my plan of a Cap and Trade system, electricity rates would NECESSARILY SKYROCKET.” -BARACK OBAMA |
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#4
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Too sources of fresh air huh? That's not a bad idea either. I wish my house had central AC so I could suck cool air into the grow room too. How much did the motorized damper run you? Last edited by KnowledgeSeeker; 09-05-2009 at 02:35 AM.. |
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#5
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http://www.plantlightinghydroponics....en-p-1967.html
__________________
“Under my plan of a Cap and Trade system, electricity rates would NECESSARILY SKYROCKET.” -BARACK OBAMA |
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#6
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What kind of chiller do you have and what do you use it for? What kind of setup do you have? |
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#8
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running 2 1000 HPS, 2 3x6 trays, using a top feed rockwool drip system, and using a 10 inch Max Fan coupled with a Phresh filter rated at 1400 CFM. Using Dutch Master Gold line nutes, Hygrozyme, and Drip Clean from from H&G.
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“Under my plan of a Cap and Trade system, electricity rates would NECESSARILY SKYROCKET.” -BARACK OBAMA |
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#9
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How do you like the Dutch Master line? How long have you been using it? |
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#10
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seal the room, run an AC (I strongly suggest a mini split unit) your CO2 will stay in the room, no need to vent inside air out, or outside in. just use outside air to go through your lights to cool them, then exhaust that air back outside.
For odor in the room just get a can filter, and run it like a scrubber. No odor! for ebb/flow you dont need any res chillers, especially if you can keep the room at a steady temperature with an AC. the only problem with my suggestion is cost. about 600 for a split AC, way cheaper if you do a window unit, but I'm not sure if they exchange air from the room.
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