How to hook up fan to cool reflector *pics*

plantz

Well-Known Member
i have a 400 watt HPS and i am trying to hook up a 80 CFM 4'' duct fan to the reflector to hopefully get rid of alot of the heat straight from the source. I also am going to have a 200 cfm fan on the ceiling of my grow room. My question is.. with the materials i have. how can i hook it up.
-4'' inline fuct fan
-aprrox. 10' of 4'' flex ducting

How am i going to hook it up to get most of the heat from the light out if the grow room? should i have it connecting to the top or should i have it come from the end? Detailed information or pics of other peoples similar hookup would be nice. +reps for helpfulness.
 

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Faded1

Active Member
I think you should hang the fan as close to the light as possible and then use the ducting to vent the air outside. I think you would be better served to invest in a sealed reflector, If not then put the fan right next to the blulb. Dont use ducting next to the bulb, you will gett a better draw with the fan right next to the bulb. Anyway thats my 2 cents worth, good luck.
 

plantz

Well-Known Member
Gave you guys +reps. Very nice ty for the pic dude... anyone else got any ideas?
 

DownOnWax

Well-Known Member
You need to get an Air cooled reflector.

They are enclosed so you can pull air straight through without heating the room. With the reflector you have, it's just going to heat the room and then the fan will be pulling air out of there.

An 80 cfm fan is not going to do much unless you have a Cool Tube, Euro Reflector, or an EZ Cool.

And to tell you the truth, that 80 cfm fan you got is just a booster fan. You really need to upgrade to a Can Fan if you have heat problems.
 

plantz

Well-Known Member
ok well i was thinking of making a cooltube anyways but im wondering if i will even need it with the fan im going to have for exhausting.. im gonna just hook it up finally and figure out how much heat it actually is putting off.
 

DankJWeeks

New Member
ok well i was thinking of making a cooltube anyways but im wondering if i will even need it with the fan im going to have for exhausting.. im gonna just hook it up finally and figure out how much heat it actually is putting off.
Good idea!!! i hooked up my room a couple days ago and i though it was good. i measured temps today and its 108F on the exhaust and its 88 - 93 in my room! im thinking about just getting some sort of air conditioner, i cant ventalate it right to cool down enough, good luck bro
 

plantz

Well-Known Member
Good idea!!! i hooked up my room a couple days ago and i though it was good. i measured temps today and its 108F on the exhaust and its 88 - 93 in my room! im thinking about just getting some sort of air conditioner, i cant ventalate it right to cool down enough, good luck bro
Umm... thats fucking hot! i hope im not going to have that much of a problem... whats the CFM on your exhaust?
 

bongrippinbob

Well-Known Member
I hope that 200cfm fan is not a "booster" fan like the 80cfm one. Those are for boosting airflow in ducting where there is already a fan. They are not made to actually push or pull air through the duct themslves.

Once you hook that fan up to ducting, your 80cfm free air flow is going to go down to like 30cfm with all the static pressure from the duct. I had a 420cfm duct booster fan and my 130cfm computer fan moved a TON more air than the booster fan.

Get a good inline fan and an air cooled reflector and you will be able to achieve what you are looking to do. Right now, there is no way to "air cool" your hood since its not sealed.

And to Dank, you can cool the cab down with more air flow. I"m sure its not 108 in your house. My cab stays about 8degrees above ambient temps. So when my house is like 75 degrees, the cab is like 83degrees. Add more exhaust and you should be fine. It might seem kind of expensive to spend $200 on a fan, but if you spend $100 on an A/C unit, after like a month of two of running it, you will have saved money buying the fan.
 

DankJWeeks

New Member
And to Dank, you can cool the cab down with more air flow. I"m sure its not 108 in your house. My cab stays about 8degrees above ambient temps. So when my house is like 75 degrees, the cab is like 83degrees. Add more exhaust and you should be fine. It might seem kind of expensive to spend $200 on a fan, but if you spend $100 on an A/C unit, after like a month of two of running it, you will have saved money buying the fan.[/quote]


My inline fan is 306cfm so i have a big enough fan! My room is 240 sqft.... my house temp is 70F and my tent temp is 88-93F, i have the inline on top of my tent and its going through the hood out of then tent on other side (6 inch ducting) and it reads 108F and i have that exiting through my window! what do i need to get to get it cooler? i already have a 306cfm fan!
 

Schmarmpit

Well-Known Member
I wonder if any of you guys have heard of the Stanley Blower mod? I use it now and it works wonders. It is a $35-$40 fan from Walmart that you can alter to hook up to ducting. It moves massive amounts of air for a very cheap price. You can do a search for stanley blower in google and come up with many results for the mod.
 

DankJWeeks

New Member
me and plantz got some heat issues, any other ideas or info is great appreciated thanks guys + rep for all you


Schmarmpit, are you suggesting we get Another inline fan? where would i put it and how would i route everything to make it cool down i already got one 6 inch inline!
 

thevegas

Well-Known Member
I wonder if any of you guys have heard of the Stanley Blower mod? I use it now and it works wonders. It is a $35-$40 fan from Walmart that you can alter to hook up to ducting. It moves massive amounts of air for a very cheap price. You can do a search for stanley blower in google and come up with many results for the mod.
very good suggestion! i'm going to give this a try.
 

bongrippinbob

Well-Known Member
Are you sure you have enough passive intake holes in order to actually have 300cfm of exhaust? What are you using for your intake holes?

On my 747cfm fan, I have like 6 pieces of 8" diameter duct plus a 420cfm duct boost fan in one of the intakes, and I still have a ton of back pressure. I am acutally going to be adding more intakes. I will end up with like eight 8" intakes for my fan.

Also, is that exhaust fan you're using one of the booster fans like the original post showed? If it is, this is why you can't cool your room with it. Spend the $100-$200 for a quality fan and it should work fine. If you already have a real inline fan, then it is probably because you don't have enough intakes.

You need 1 sq ft (144 sq inches) of intake for every 300cfm. If you are using pvc light traps you end up needing like 100 of these things. But if you use some 6" or 8" duct and just bend that you can get away with like 2 or 3. If there is back pressure in your cab, keep adding intakes until it goes away and then cover up that last intake to keep some back pressure.
 

plantz

Well-Known Member
Hey guys and DankJweeks..i looked into that "stanley blower mod" and it seems like an awsome, cheap, easy, and fast way to cool down my light.. im gonna hook it up to a DIY cooltube im making.
 

Schmarmpit

Well-Known Member
Hey guys and DankJweeks..i looked into that "stanley blower mod" and it seems like an awsome, cheap, easy, and fast way to cool down my light.. im gonna hook it up to a DIY cooltube im making.
Good move, you won't be disappointed. The fan has 3 separate speeds but there is some kind of sensor that ramps up the motor when it senses restriction. As far as CFM are concerned, they are listed as being in the thousands (1,200 for the lowest setting) but I think that realistically they are pulling more like 300. Either way, for $40 it's well worth the effort of modding it.

I didn't even do the 6" collar starter, or even take the thing apart for that matter. I just used liquid nails and glued down a 6" to 4" reducer right on top of the intake. Works like a charm.
 

plantz

Well-Known Member
Good move, you won't be disappointed. The fan has 3 separate speeds but there is some kind of sensor that ramps up the motor when it senses restriction. As far as CFM are concerned, they are listed as being in the thousands (1,200 for the lowest setting) but I think that realistically they are pulling more like 300. Either way, for $40 it's well worth the effort of modding it.

I didn't even do the 6" collar starter, or even take the thing apart for that matter. I just used liquid nails and glued down a 6" to 4" reducer right on top of the intake. Works like a charm.
hey, you think i could get some pics of that schmarmpit?
 
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