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#901
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I don't know .. but Brick may be gone .. but U R right Wyteboi .. has he posted here in a while ? This could get outa' control real quick !
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Roll and smoke 'em (twist one and toast one) .. .. ~_~ . .. . |
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#902
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well i am subscribed and it looks like u are too ........ so we got this
![]() i have been a home/dope electrician for 10 years now
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" Folks try to hard. They give their plants too much of everything usually. Sometimes less is more." |
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#903
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UF wire is the wire u will need. (it can be buried) you can just tap right into it and add a plug or the safest way would be to add a junction box (a disconnect) and run your uf wire from there . that way there is a breaker on the circuit/circuits you are needing.
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" Folks try to hard. They give their plants too much of everything usually. Sometimes less is more." |
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#904
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Wyteboi and Roland just wanted to say thanks for the help you guys are giving here. I know electrical can be a real pain in the ass. Especially when what we need is not there.
On the bright side. Electricity is pretty black and white, no gray areas there. If those that are wiring their rooms do not have the correct size wiring in place already then take the time to run the wire needed. If money is an issue as it is for most of us then I would recommend running One less light and ballast (if using Two or more) and use that saved money to upgrade the wiring. In most cases it is easily done. Anyway, please dont skimp on the wiring. The results can be dangerous. Last edited by curioushiker; 11-07-2009 at 08:14 AM.. |
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#905
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Thanks for the info buddy i just added up everything besides the heat mat and i came out with 1313 watts divided by 110 gave me 11.93 watts so im well under. Thanks again!!
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#906
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Hello Mr Electricty-
Setting up a grow room 12x16, i'm running 10 gauge wire underground in conduit to my shed about 80' (grow room). Into a breaker box with 240v- 20amp breaker to support the 2-1000watt HPS flowering lights and the 400 watt MH light in the veg room (11.9 amps). And another 120v-20amp breaker to support the rest of the equipment (fans, A/C, pumps, 2' floursents) Question will this work? What Ballast do you recommend? Digital or magmnetic? I hear about "liner loads" and "non linar loads" I have no idea what they are talking about and was hoping for some input. Thanks, Treemansbuds- |
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#907
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So I am a cheap bastard.... Instead of buying a controller with humidity and temp, I just bought the temp. Now my room is running humid (80-85%) before the fans turn on to cool the room. I'm worried that mold may start to invade. Is there a way that i can hook up the same exhaust fan to both the temp contoller and then add in a humidity controller also to the same fan by using a "OR" circuit? How would I wire this? Would i have to worry about feedback from either controller towards the other? Diodes? |
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#908
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u need to total wattages for your 110V circuit and divide by 110 .. but 20 A circuit is PROB'LY OK Digital (electronic) ballasts are more expensive .. give off less heat .. are quieter .and use slightly less current ... your call not sure what u mean by "liner" and "non-linar" loads ..unless they are talking about distance ... over 200 feet requires wire guage increase.. line .. and load ... are labeled lugs in a transformer or a disconnect .. .. line = source .. load = device
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Roll and smoke 'em (twist one and toast one) .. .. ~_~ . .. . Last edited by Roland; 11-07-2009 at 02:41 PM.. |
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#909
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Thanks for the 411. Do you recommend GFI outlets for the 120v? I'm wired and live to the breaker box, and I have 1 120v outlet installed Glad 2 know your here if I needed.......thanks again! Treemansbuds- |
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#910
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It's there to protect people ..in case a Hair dryer falls into the bathtub (just an example ) or to keep you from being electrocuted if you are standing in water
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Roll and smoke 'em (twist one and toast one) .. .. ~_~ . .. . |
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