Moby Dick vs. Nebula Growdown d(".")b

SmoochieBoochies

Well-Known Member
Woo hoo! Finished yet another 8 hour round of indentured servitude with the ladies:

-Moved light chains for hang/rehang lights, adjusted with light meter, up down left right, no hot spots but man that sucked. Bulbs are 18" apart. Bright!
-Re-potted Moby into 5 gal pot, roots look nice, loosened/cut a few vertical slits in the roots on the side of the pot and a few that were circling the bottom.
-WATERED.
-Moved/adjusted/elevated each pot so top canopy is even.
-Placed trays under pots.
-Mopped up water (I hate watering!!!!!).
-Lollipoped lower 12" of their underpants.
-Completely vacuumed/cleaned.
-LST Moby's top 6" 90*.

Heights/characteristics:

Moby, 55", after the chaining 49".
Both Nebula are 41" tall, but the bigger one is one week older and under the 600w hps so she is fuller.
The Nebula clone has begun growing upwards again and is now in soil at 21 days. It's been on 12/12 with everyone else for two weeks now.

Overall after two weeks of 12/12 everyone has slowed their upward march and is starting to fill in the inner branches, bud sites are multiplying rapidly.

As always, pics are labelled. Check out the numbered "Chaining of Moby" sequence and "King Snake Rescue". Also, Mi5 is three weeks away from harvest.

Thanks for watching!
 

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SmoochieBoochies

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys!

So far I am preferring Nebula's tall, compact frame over Moby Dick's tall, bushy frame for indoor. I could easily see putting Nebula's pots closer together and run a sog, whereas outdoors Moby Dick will be queen in full sun. I don't even see a need to cross the two anymore, as both have what I want already in their growth patterns. Now it is a contest of yield, potency, taste, and effect.

The White Widow body odor trait of Moby Dick and Nebula is quickly diminishing as flowering progresses.
 

SmoochieBoochies

Well-Known Member
I will do the service of posting a response, if only to add clarity to this thread:

Again, please read the thread, 100 watts per plant was for VEGETATION, 200 watts plus is for FLOWER. I am 16 days into flower.

600w: ONE Moby Dick (52") and ONE Nebula (41").
400w: ONE Mi5 (30") and ONE Nebula (41").
70w: side of Mi5.

The bulbs are 16" apart in the horizontal plane and 18" diagonal. You do the math on how much wattage each plant is getting and how much p.a.r. at each plant.

By all means, I love a good taunt, but read the facts before you decide to insult someone's growing skills, especially when they've been growing for a hell of a lot longer than yourself.

End of discussion, as any and all credibility you had with me has completely evaporated.



Originally Posted by DrFever
smootch what i was tryig to say is 100 watts per plant all you going to get is fluff its not trolling its the truth
 

SmoochieBoochies

Well-Known Member
Here's a quick update of Moby Dick and Nebula.

Moby keeps fighting against her bonds, but since I tied her top to the base of a large fan leaf six nodes down ( 6 days ago) on her main stem, as she stretches upwards she actually bends herself further down. This way her height has only raised an inch (2.5 cm) in six days, but her top has actually grown 6".

If you look at the pics, Moby is in a 5 gal pot on the floor, everyone else is at least 16" shorter, putting Moby at 52" vertical.

The Nebulae have a wonderful top I can only describe as a crown, and you can see they are getting ready to launch pistils.

The white widow body stank of Nebula and Moby is gone now that we are in flower. Yay! AK-fruity and ww bo filling the room just doesn't do it for me.

Thanks for stopping by!
 

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SmoochieBoochies

Well-Known Member
Thanks Kev, it should be interesting, and I'm excited to document the results of running the lights as 600w hps / 400w mhc to show improved <edit: UPPER STORY> bud formation and resin production. I might actually have to ditch my 9 y/o digital camera and get a new one so I can take better photos.

mrgreen, I do not think you'll be disappointed in Nebula. I've grown a lot of Paradise's gear and they are consistently a treat of sight, smell, taste, and effect. One of my favorite breeders.
 

SmoochieBoochies

Well-Known Member
I was a bit negligent over the weekend and allowed Nebula to grow too close to the lights, so she has a bit of light burn. I found a 12" overlapping hot spot 22" from both lights, so I moved the bulbs from 18" to 22" apart horizontally, 20" to 22" diagonally, rechecked the light levels throughout, and all should be fine.

Moby is reported to be a 800 w/m2 minimum beast, and she has shown that in this instance, as she was actually closer to the hot spot and suffered no ill effects.

You can see the bleaching of the sun leaves on their high spots and the crisping on the edges. It doesn't really affect the plants much when caught early, but cosmetically it just irks me, especially when it was due to my own neglect.

Lesson's learned (again). D'oh!
 

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SmoochieBoochies

Well-Known Member
Here is a closeup of a Nebula and her upper nodes are starting to grow another two stems per node, on the main trunk. See picture.


new trunk stems.jpgDSC02677.jpg

<edit: Here is the original shot, riu is not pulling in the labelled pic in a viewable size. When I get it fixed I'll post it. >
 

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SmoochieBoochies

Well-Known Member
I cannot get a good picture in the hps to illustrate just yet, but I wanted to point out what I see as an advantage of using 600w beside 400w as opposed to one 1000w. When the main stem is exposed to lower angle light (15*-20* from vertical plane) from adjacent lights that are very close to each other, the plant takes a late season signal and boosts interior growth. I pay attention to lst leaves and stems out into the open and expose the interior. In places where the light hits the node at the main stem, new growth. Wherever the node is shaded, no growth.

These little stems will boost my overall yield as the interior of the plant fills in. I get these same results outside as the fall season sun dips in the sky. The plants grow straight all summer under high angle sunlight, then as the sun's angle drops, understory and interior bud sites are illuminated. The once green and bending stems that chased the light now cannot move, so they do not cover the new growth.

This is just my take on getting results favorable to me and not any kind of exact science. Feel free to illuminate my understanding.

Happy growing!
 

kevin murphy

New Member
great info that smooch mate and nice updates pal..what u reckon could be the final yeild would you say a 10-20-30% difference in using a 400 and 600 instaed of 1000
 

SmoochieBoochies

Well-Known Member
Thanks dude!

I'll give you an explanation of what I did.

I first used 600w hps with 400w mh 'back-lighting' as an experiment to see how the balanced spectrum would affect growth throughout flower. 2 weeks into flower when I first saw those little interior stems I thought I hermie'd the four C99 and freaked out for weeks. No nuts appeared and these gitanic colas developed that were one glued together monster nugget.

Under the 1000w were four C99 that showed this same growth, but during late flower around 5 weeks. The lower buds were heavier under the single 1000w area, and the buds were more consistent overall in the mid section, but always medium sized top nugs.

When I started growing outside I noticed that as the sun's angle changed through the seasons (with the help of an epic grower I will add, rest in peace dude) I would get results similar to that 600w hps/400w mh combo, with giant top colas meshed together into one monster nugget. I believe this is called 'late season vigor', where plants explode in response to the changing light cycle and angle of inclination of the sun.

I would say if you cater to the fact that the 600w and 400w do not penetrate as far down into the canopy as a 1000w, and grow a small number of plants in a scrog or heavy lst with a canopy depth of 30", constantly rotate the plants, then you achieve about the same yield.

What you DO increase is bud density, resin production, and overall increase the amount of top notch gear you have to smoke at the end of the day. This is not really practical with large grows unless you do nothing at all except cultivate mj.
 

Dr.Amber Trichome

Well-Known Member
man your garden is WILD! looking real nice smoochie. the wrangeled top cola had been supercropped? wicked dressing.
gorgeous snake. i love the colors .. poisonous? lol.. do you have any pet alligators around?
 

SmoochieBoochies

Well-Known Member
Thanks amber. No supercropping involved. I actually used a piece of irrigation pipe, heated the middle, bent it to a 90*, cut it open on the back of the 90*, slipped it over the main stalk, between nodes, tied her top down.

The 90* is zip tied in place so she can't get out of it, no pinching required, therefore no knuckle, no slow down, and the 90* bend grows in place.

The fun part of this is that her top is tied to a fan leaf, not another stem, so as she stretches up, she pulls her top down further past 90*, so all new top growth stays even with the side shoots, maybe just a little higher. As she does manage to turn upwards, I just slip the rope up the stalk. Every few days I test releasing it to make sure it is sticking.

Her trunk is tied back to the wall for support to hold her straight, which also opened up the interior canopy. I'll teach her to stretch! This way just takes a lot more effort than supercropping, but I don't damage my sweetie. No sir, I don't like it!

Update showing all of this later in the week.

Ha ha! There just might be a Gator hanging out around somewhere.
 

albsure

Active Member
Wondering why you are jumping around with all of the different types of light? I run the same HPS lights from the start of veg. cycle all the way through flowering and have great results. I know all the kelvin theories but I found using the same light throughout very simple and the results are fantastic. I simply raise or lower the lights depending on the size of the plant and that's it.
 

albsure

Active Member
Oops. Pays to read the whole thread before commenting. I read your first post and commented. Then I read your explanation on this page.
Different strokes. If it works for you great but I like to keep it real simple and if I'm getting good results, I don't mess with it. I find a lot of people like to manage their crops much more than I do. I usually spend no more than 2 to 5 minutes a day in my grow room. The 5 minute days are when I water and feed. The other days, when I only spend a couple of minutes a day, is for a quick inspection of the plants looking for bugs or fungus problems. If I had to switch lights out four or five times in a grow I probably wouldn't grow.
 
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