Dyna-Gro vs Advanced Nutrients Connoisseur (AK47 Grow)

Thanks for the reply.
The chart I was looking at was slightly different.
When you say a couple mls of base in veg, im assuming dyna gro-veg with protek? and when you double that for flower do you still add the dyna gro bloom( and how much per gallon)? and are you doubling protek as well?
That sounds like 5ml per gallon of dyna gro veg for flower...am I correct?


Thanks

Originally Posted by iceberg slim

Thanks for the reply.
The chart I was looking at was slightly different.
When you say a couple mls of base in veg, im assuming dyna gro-veg with protek? and when you double that for flower do you still add the dyna gro bloom( and how much per gallon)? and are you doubling protek as well?
That sounds like 5ml per gallon of dyna gro veg for flower...am I correct?


Thanks

Generally speaking, a tsp of plant food and an equal amount of protekt should put your pH in the proper range (depends on your water) and is a good starting point for flower. Cut those values in half for veg. You should not need more than the amounts I just gave you so think about dialing back in the future as you find a base nuterotekt ratio that works in regards to pH.

Originally Posted by dickkhead

im going to try the foliage pro next going into flower and add bloom with it after 2 weeks and see how they do theres somone here who runs FP all the way through hopefully he reads this and post a few pics of his results Id like to see how they came out and also wonder if he only used FP or added mag pro, pro tekt , and was using tap or RO?....hs

I use foliage pro in veg up to 1st week of flower. The problem with foliage pro in flower is it is hard to get the right ratio of phosphorus and potassium in mid flower when you are adding the foliage pro. I use it in veg because I can supply the plants with as much nitrogen as they need and keep the ppm on the low end during vegetative growth. The plants don't need high amounts of phosphorus and potassium in veg, so I stay away from the grow formula.

This enables me to not have to really drain to waste much fertilizer to ensure that the unused fertilizer doesn't build up in the media. My plants vegetatively grow for 2 months in promix and I don't have to leech the media once during that time. I do, however, add dolomite lime to the promix for additional buffering capacity and I fertilize with every watering. I don't subscribe to the fert, fert, straight water routine, as I think that can mess with the plants natural osmotic reaction to salts in soil and can inhibit the plants ability to uptake water.

Low ppms all the way through with the right ration of n-p-k and all micronutrients as well as a media that has sufficient buffering capacity is all ya need. Cal-Mag is not necessary unless you have magnesium deficiency or R/O water. However, if you are using soil or soilless media, just adding dolomite lime is easier. Less things to measure.

mm

Originally Posted by medicalmary

I use foliage pro in veg up to 1st week of flower. The problem with foliage pro in flower is it is hard to get the right ratio of phosphorus and potassium in mid flower when you are adding the foliage pro. I use it in veg because I can supply the plants with as much nitrogen as they need and keep the ppm on the low end during vegetative growth. The plants don't need high amounts of phosphorus and potassium in veg, so I stay away from the grow formula.

This enables me to not have to really drain to waste much fertilizer to ensure that the unused fertilizer doesn't build up in the media. My plants vegetatively grow for 2 months in promix and I don't have to leech the media once during that time. I do, however, add dolomite lime to the promix for additional buffering capacity and I fertilize with every watering. I don't subscribe to the fert, fert, straight water routine, as I think that can mess with the plants natural osmotic reaction to salts in soil and can inhibit the plants ability to uptake water.

Low ppms all the way through with the right ration of n-p-k and all micronutrients as well as a media that has sufficient buffering capacity is all ya need. Cal-Mag is not necessary unless you have magnesium deficiency or R/O water. However, if you are using soil or soilless media, just adding dolomite lime is easier. Less things to measure.

mm

thanks for the response I have noticed that adding lime to the pro mix does help atleast it did with organic run I did, and I just added a small amount to my girls now. im starting to think the same as far as feeding goes some people consider pro mix like hydro and hydro plants see fert every time they see water, but like you said lo enough to not cause buildup or see deff, funny you mention that osmotic relatioin TB just emailed me an article on that! in bloom what do you run? how much protekt do you run in flower as well?

Originally Posted by dickkhead

thanks for the response I have noticed that adding lime to the pro mix does help atleast it did with organic run I did, and I just added a small amount to my girls now. im starting to think the same as far as feeding goes some people consider pro mix like hydro and hydro plants see fert every time they see water, but like you said lo enough to not cause buildup or see deff, funny you mention that osmotic relatioin TB just emailed me an article on that! in bloom what do you run? how much protekt do you run in flower as well?

1-3-2 n-p-k in flower is pretty standard. I'm usually at that 2 weeks into flower. As far as silicates are concerned, I usually run enough to balance my pH. In my water it takes about 60% base nutes and 40% pro-tekt to reach a 6.0-6.4 pH. You could add more to up your silicate EC, however, I've pretty much stopped using pH up and down and just adjust my protekt levels with the base fertilizer levels I add (mainly because I'm lazy and I I've got the measurements down pat). I haven't used pH up or down in months. As far as flushing is concerned, I'm not a believer. I run lower levels of fertilizer right up until the end and haven't flushed in a year. There is absolutely no "chemical" taste in my buds. No difference between when I did flush other than healthier plants right up to harvest.

mm

Originally Posted by medicalmary

1-3-2 n-p-k in flower is pretty standard. I'm usually at that 2 weeks into flower. As far as silicates are concerned, I usually run enough to balance my pH. In my water it takes about 60% base nutes and 40% pro-tekt to reach a 6.0-6.4 pH. You could add more to up your silicate EC, however, I've pretty much stopped using pH up and down and just adjust my protekt levels with the base fertilizer levels I add (mainly because I'm lazy and I I've got the measurements down pat). I haven't used pH up or down in months. As far as flushing is concerned, I'm not a believer. I run lower levels of fertilizer right up until the end and haven't flushed in a year. There is absolutely no "chemical" taste in my buds. No difference between when I did flush other than healthier plants right up to harvest.

mm

I'm still new to this so please forgive me but when u say 1-3-2 N-p-k Is that tsp per gallon 1tsp FP, 3tsp bloom,2tsp of protekt? And yea I'm gna try to just keep them green uptil when I harvest but not over feed them!

Originally Posted by dickkhead

I'm still new to this so please forgive me but when u say 1-3-2 N-p-k Is that tsp per gallon 1tsp FP, 3tsp bloom,2tsp of protekt? And yea I'm gna try to just keep them green uptil when I harvest but not over feed them!

DH, it's the standard representation of N-P-K nute ratios. Meaning 1 part N -to- 3parts P -to- 2 parts K. I mean this only as a constructive criticism, but you're still looking for that magic bullet that doesn't exist. Your variables are different, whethere it's different lighting or something as subtle as different elevation or average levels of atmospheric pressure that will affect transpiration, which in turn changes things. HB is not quick to tell you his exact numbers I'm sure because he even finesses them on a regular basis due to feedback from his plants. As you can see between all of the good growers no doubt all having good results in their environments that there is more than one way to crack this egg. You have a base to start from now, but from here you'll have to find what works best for you in your environment. Resorting back to the product labels for guidance was not what HB had in mind, I'm sure he wanted you to learn the art of reading your plants and acting accordingly...

Just make slow changes from what's working now. We are always here to show pics and provide feedback. It won't be as hard as you think, but somewhat of an ongoing process, especially with new strains and phenos. I am still honing my own skills, but the forums are great because there is always someone to help 24/7... Make sure you keep a journal of feeding levels, ec, lighting, etc. And keep filling this stuff in forever. That way if you want to run a particular strain again you'll be able to start out with what you already knew from the last time and your results will be that much better and easier the second round right from day 1.

I've seen your pics and know what a massive bodybuilder you are, and surely you understand that if I ate the same as you for a month I'd probably have to call the guys to cut a hole in the side of my house and take me out on a stretcher-lol. Plants are no different in that they vary the same, genetically and environmentally influenced.

Originally Posted by Trichy Bastard

DH, it's the standard representation of N-P-K nute ratios. Meaning 1 part N -to- 3parts P -to- 2 parts K. I mean this only as a constructive criticism, but you're still looking for that magic bullet that doesn't exist. Your variables are different, whethere it's different lighting or something as subtle as different elevation or average levels of atmospheric pressure that will affect transpiration, which in turn changes things. HB is not quick to tell you his exact numbers I'm sure because he even finesses them on a regular basis due to feedback from his plants. As you can see between all of the good growers no doubt all having good results in their environments that there is more than one way to crack this egg. You have a base to start from now, but from here you'll have to find what works best for you in your environment. Resorting back to the product labels for guidance was not what HB had in mind, I'm sure he wanted you to learn the art of reading your plants and acting accordingly...

Just make slow changes from what's working now. We are always here to show pics and provide feedback. It won't be as hard as you think, but somewhat of an ongoing process, especially with new strains and phenos. I am still honing my own skills, but the forums are great because there is always someone to help 24/7... Make sure you keep a journal of feeding levels, ec, lighting, etc. And keep filling this stuff in forever. That way if you want to run a particular strain again you'll be able to start out with what you already knew from the last time and your results will be that much better and easier the second round right from day 1.

I've seen your pics and know what a massive bodybuilder you are, and surely you understand that if I ate the same as you for a month I'd probably have to call the guys to cut a hole in the side of my house and take me out on a stretcher-lol. Plants are no different in that they vary the same, genetically and environmentally influenced.

Ok it's still confusing 1 part 3 part 2 part to how many other parts lol I'm confused on what u mean by it i get what Npk is but explain the whole ratio thing on some bottles it will say diff Npk ratios for different scenarios veg or bloom and some of those numbers go as high as 20 like jacks classic.
Growing is very similiar to bodybuilding in somany ways it's not funny for instance high carb diets low carb diets, cut water and sodium or dont cut water or sodium at the end of the diet (kinda like nutes or flush at the end)and Ive been competing for 5 Years and know what works and what doesn't work and am still learning!

I guess I still need some time to dial things and a grow journal is def key!