Let me get into more details on the above mentioned techiques.
I was planing a SCROG, but I want a perpetual harvest with alot of variety an low numbers. Scrogs im my cab would be hard cause i can only acess it from one side.
CCOB= Circle Crop Of BUD
So I was back to training, when resrearhing her I found the perfect one.
Low height, long,veg time for big buds, low numbers
https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/360125-new-growers-needed-grow-lab.html
The information contained is incredible.
Im Basicaly following the Great grower HOBBES insturctions to circle the plants CCOB.
Hoping for plants that look like this....
View attachment 1398076 
Air pruning/ Diy Air Pots
Hobbes also convinced me to try Air Pruning the roots.
Heres a video explaining them....
[video=youtube;nceTm3r1mZc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nceTm3r1mZc&feature=related[/video]
You got to read all this also, lol.
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/303229-diy-air-pruning-pot-experiment.html
He reports 25% more yield with em, a great test!
He proves they stop the "circle of death" root bind.
Just drill holes line the pot with screen/landscape fabric an bam health roots.
I make lil ones by stabbing holes in a styrafoam party cup.
See its my 1st attempt at ZST.
Zero Stress Training.
"What the fuck is ZSTing you may ask?
ZERO STRESS TRAINING
I attach a training frame made from galvanised wire to my pots (which are square pots) and then I lay the pots on their side and the plants bend towards the light ... then I attach them to the frame.
I exert ZERO stress on the plant and cannot break or snap the plant.
Once they are attached to the frame I can stand the pot upright (for a few days) and lay it down again later."
Grumy old dreamer.
https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/383356-topping-vs-lst-vs-natural.html
Elegantly simple.
Remember i plus rept you after you shared that with me back in Nov. Dreamer. lol
Make it rain. by Riddleme
"As promised here is an explanation of my technique
It is all about how mother nature does things and with her being the absolute best gardener there is I set out to copy her style.
The PH of rain (in most places) is 5.6 so I PH my water to 5.8, to understand why you need to understand how everything works in nature and why they say soil is a buffer. This is why soil PH is somewhat important because when it is dry the PH should be around 7 or neutral. When it rains the soil takes on the wet PH of the water in the case of rain it is lowered. The acidic nature of rain activates things in the soil basically processing avaiable nutes and making them available to the plants. But at the low PH the plants can't get at them, I have attached a photo showing at what PH level the different nutes become available to the plant.
What happens is the plant is basically drowing and starving when it rains so it goes into hyperdrive to wick the water out of the ground in order to survive, Know that they transpire anyway but much harder when it rains. As they do this the soil buffers back to it's original PH slowly and as this happens nutes become available to the plant in the various ranges. (one reason you see more growth on the second day)
Most soil growers will PH their water and nutes down in the low 6's and as high as 6.8 but this does not give the hyperdrive wicking effect, they will just transpire normally and slowly if you do this. Hence the growth you see in my pics from making it rain because I basically only let them rest for one day (to dry out and get O2) between making it rain and it is very important to know how to read them to know that this is where things are at otherwise you will easily fall into the overwater trap and cause them stress and harm possibly even kill them.
It is also important that they have a healthy root system in order to be able to wick the water out of the ground faster. TIP, if they are growing fast and wanting water in short periods of time you know you have healthy roots part of learning how to read them and one of the things to be aware of.
This is also the reason that I use chemical nutes as they are readily available to the plant right away as the wicking process goes through the various PH ranges getting back to neutral, it is a slower process with organic nutes as the rain activates and the little mico critters eat and poop processing the nutes so the plant can use them.
now you must also understand that adding chem nutes lowers the PH of your soil with accumulated salt build ups, when you make it rain everytime you are basically doing what we call the flush (though in the other than MJ world it is most commonly reffered as leeching the soil) and washing unused nutes (salts) out of the soil thus allowing you to repeat the process all over again without having to worry about salt building up. Yet another reason that it is slower when going organic cause you are washing mico's out as well and then waiting for them to multiply back up and this is why I use Jack's because it is one of the best chem nutes available on the market today. JR Peters has a very good reputation and has been one of the best nutes for agriculture and gardening for many years.
The process for container gardening is simple you make it rain with the low PH water and the plant goes into hyperdrive, you watch the top 3 inches of soil for drying out and when it does you feed them nutes but only till you see a slight runoff insuring that the pot is now full of nutes. Plant remains in hyperdrive and now feeds off the readily available nutes, you then wait till the soil dries and repeat. While the process is very simple it is the learning to read them that can be complicated and cause confusion. Learning/knowing when to do things is the most important part of the process. It is also important not to overfeed them which causes nute burn and other problems, thus the reason we start out with 1/4 of what the nute package says and slowly work our way up to discover what the plant can handle.
