Gypsy's Picture Depot - Page 255

GypsyBush · #**2541** 08-10-2009, 02:06 AM

This is also pretty cool...

Quote:

How to stop insects and fungi from ruining your garden.

marijuana growers face many challenges. Among the most persistent problems they encounter are insects, diseases, fungi, viruses and bacteria that harm plants. This article will describe the most common of these problems, and prescribe preventive and corrective measures.

Some nasty buggers

The most common insects that plague marijuana indoors and outdoors are thrips, mites, whiteflies, fungus gnats, budworms, and caterpillars. Of these, mites are most prevalent in indoor grow rooms; outdoor growers generally find that leaf-eating insects like caterpillars and budworms are their most threatening insect pests.

White Fly

Mites are tiny, mobile, hardy, and vicious. They travel from grow room to grow room on infected clones and on the bodies and clothes of people who have come in contact with mites. Mites live in nature and on dogs. Approximately 60% of BC's indoor grow rooms are infected with mites.
Mites puncture leaves and gorge themselves on plant juices. In the early stages of infestation, they produce little evidence of their presence, although they can be detected by careful examination of leaf surfaces with a magnifying glass. Look for yellow or white spots on both sides of the leaves. The spots radiate along leaf veins, and are evenly spaced.

In advanced stages, spider mite infestations are easily diagnosed, because the mites build white webbing which encapsulates plant sections.

Non-web leaf damage caused by mites can be mistakenly diagnosed as leaf spotting caused by thrips. Thrips are larger than mites with a more linear body shape. They bite leaves and create white or yellowish marks on them, but the marks are more clustered and solidly discolored than those left by mites. Thrips leave black fecal debris on leaves and in floral clusters.

Whiteflies are more easily seen than thrips or mites because they fly around plants, especially when plants are shaken by gardeners or air movement. As their name implies, whiteflies are pure white, and are about the size of the head of a pencil lead.
Whiteflies drink plant juices and leave residue on plant surfaces that provides sustenance for harmful fungi.
Fungus gnats and related species such as the crane fly infest soil and root zones. They feed on roots, which causes a decrease in plants' ability to uptake nutrients. Gnats are tiny, mobile, and dark. Crane flies resemble mosquitoes.

Budworms and caterpillars are problems primarily for outdoor growers. Budworms burrow into ripe floral clusters; they also spin webs around floral clusters, although this is infrequent. They eat floral clusters from the inside out, and their activities provide a vector for a pervasive cannabis fungal disease known as botrytis or gray mold.

Leaf infected by a mosiac virus

Leaf-eating caterpillars are less difficult to detect than budworms because they spend most of their time on leaves. They often manipulate leaves before eating them; their feeding habits include eating small sections of leaf in between leaf veins, or eating large chunks of leaf outright.

Mite

No fun fungi

Although healthy root zones and leaves often contain beneficial fungi and bacteria, other forms of fungi and bacteria are damaging to cannabis plants.

The most pervasive fungal invader is botrytis, otherwise known as gray mold. This fungus is particularly dangerous because it is virtually undetectable in early stages, and because it attacks the ripest, phattest buds from the
inside out.

Botrytis waits until cannabis flowers are dense and well developed, then it infests the buds near the core of the flower at stem level, and quickly produces gray garbage that destroys the bud's vigor and appearance. Gray mold and other pathogens can also affect harvested cannabis, even when harvested material is placed in a freezer.

Gray mold causes problems indoors and outdoors, particularly where humidity levels are above 50%, with poor aeration of plant tops. Downy mildew is almost as prevalent as gray mold, although it causes less damage and is harder to detect. It originally appears as faint whitish or yellowish spots on leaf tops, with corresponding bumps on the undersides of leaves. Leaves curl up and mutate as the mildew takes hold.

Powdery mildew is not downy mildew; it first appears as small bumps on the top of leaves; soon, the leaves look like they are covered in dusty grit. In some cases, powdery mildew can superficially resemble resin glands.

"Damping off" molds attack seeds before and after they have been planted. The molds also attack emergent seedlings and seedlings that have attained as much as six inches in height. Damping off can keep seeds from sprouting at all. Or, they kill sprouts by rotting their stems at the base.

Viruses and bacteria

Viruses affect plants, not just people, and some viruses can jump from people to plants and back again. Among the most prevalent cannabis viruses are "streak" and "mosaic" viruses that cause swirling white and yellow discolorations on leaves. The discolorations are almost artistic, but soon, the leaves wilt.

Several species of bacteria also attack cannabis. Most of these bacteria manifest themselves as "blight" diseases that create spots on leaves, wilting, rotting, weak stems, and rapid decay of harvested material.

Plant infected with mites

Insect elimination

The first line of defense against insects and other plant invaders is to prevent them from getting near plants. Indoor growers can achieve this by carefully filtering air intakes and other vectors. Outdoor growers have a harder time preventing insects from alighting on plants.

All growers should examine plants daily with a magnifying glass, looking for insects and insect damage. Grow environment sanitation is also important; growers should maintain a pristine environment: remove all plant debris, use sterilized equipment, do not bring dogs into grow areas, make sure water and water reservoirs are disinfected, do not enter a grow area in the same clothes after visiting an infected grow area.

Fungus Gnat

If spider mites establish themselves in a grow area, it is virtually impossible to get rid of them without removing all equipment and plants from the area and totally cleansing the space. Beneficial predatory mites placed on plants before spider mite infestations take hold can help defeat spider mites. Spraying mite-infested plants with organic soap-garlic-cinnamide sprays also kills mites. The use of toxic poisons on cannabis, at any stage in its growth cycle but especially during flowering, is dangerous to the consumer and unethical.
Thrips can be controlled using predatory organisms and sprays, especially sprays containing pyrethrum, nicotinic acid, organic soap, and garlic. Thrips often rely on grow medium for their reproduction, so be sure to treat grow mediums as well as plants. Whiteflies like the color yellow; one control for whiteflies is a commercially available yellow strip coated with sticky material that attracts whiteflies and then traps them.

Parasitic wasps released before whitefly infestation can keep whiteflies from taking over a grow situation. Sprays containing pyrethrum and organic gardening soap kill some whiteflies, especially when they are airborne. Whenever using sprays, be sure to spray the underside of leaves thoroughly, as this is where many pests live.

Fungus gnats thrive in overfertilized, over-watered grow mediums, especially those where organic fertilizer high in nitrogen has been used. Gnats can be killed by disturbing soil, heating soil, by predatory wasps, and by applying insecticidal soap, neem, rotenone, and garlic oil to gnat infestations.
Budworms and caterpillars can be controlled by shaking plants several times a day to dislodge the insects. Preventive sprays containing insecticidal soaps and organic toxins can be used selectively during vegetative cycle, but extreme care must be taken during floral cycle.

It is usually best to watch for the gray mold-like symptoms of budworm and remove the bud or section of bud where the worm resides, rather than to risk spraying any kind of toxin on a dense, harvest-ready bud.

Virus, bacteria and mold control tips

High humidity (over 50%) and grow environment contamination should be eliminated. Grow mediums should be sterilized and then treated with beneficial fungi (such as Trichoderma and Gliocladium) and beneficial bacteria.
Light intensity should be adequate for penetration deep into plant canopy, both vertical and horizontal. Plants should be directly in line of fans and other aeration. In-line charcoal filters and other traps should be in place on all air intakes. Strict sanitation controls should be in place for anyone who enters a grow environment.

Thrips

"Bourdeaux mixture" can be useful for controlling gray mold. A spray containing copper, Bourdeaux mixture, and a beneficial organism called Bacillus subtilis is effective against downy mildew. Spraying with bicarbonate of soda, organic horticultural oils, and sulfur can kill powdery mildew. Some growers use sulfur burners to create airborne sulfur treatment against powdery mildew. Bacteria can be controlled using Bourdeaux mixture.

Plant infected from thrips

Viruses are impossible to kill once they have infected a plant. A preventive measure to protect against viruses, other than the generic tactic of preventing them from entering grow environments, is to keep plants' immune systems healthy with proper watering, temperature, root zones, and nutrients.
If molds, fungi, viruses or bacteria take hold in a grow environment, it may be necessary to remove affected plants completely. Near-harvest buds affected by most insects, pathogens and diseases can be partially salvaged by using them to make water hash. Otherwise, all plants or plant parts affected must be immediately removed and destroyed, and any tools, clothing, or other materials that came in contact with the affected plants must be removed, sterilized or destroyed.

Please note that smoking or handling whole marijuana infected by molds, mildews, and fungi can cause serious
human health problems.

Katatawnic · #**2542** 08-10-2009, 03:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GypsyBush

And the T5 will do you right.. just make sure to have an even canopy and get the light as close as possible to the plants...

how many waats is your T5?

432w... 8 54w bulbs; 4 each 30K & 65K.

An even canopy (or at the least pretty damn close LOL) is NP thanks to the LST! It's not completely even yet, but that's only because some of the newest tops are almost long enough to tie down again but not quite. Have I mentioned I'm really liking what LST does for MJ plants?

I had something to say/ask/both, but my browser crashed without warning and now I've forgotten.

But I have a new question, for anyone here who'd know. Where the hell can I find either PVC pipe or else thin lumber (2x2 OK, but 1x1 preferable) on sites that accept PayPal??? (My bank account is dry, but I've got a fairly decent PayPal balance right now.) I've just spent the better part of two hours searching eBay, but all I can find is PVC pipe fittings. If I'm lucky I'll find PVC pipe that either is WAY too much money, or else 4-6" diameter. For lifting/moving purposes, PVC would be more ideal, but then again lumber that thin is very light as well. (I already have the poultry wire, will be delivered tomorrow. I can secure it to the frames with zip ties for now if necessary; I've got a couple hundred of those. lol)

I've been planning on experimenting with SCROG, and with all the tying I'm doing with LST and the fact that I'm running out of holes I drilled on my pots' edges, it wouldn't be any more work to just SCROG them than it is to do "straight" LST. (Actually, with all the leaf tucking I have to do now to keep them from shading the constant new shoots, it looks like SCROG would actually be less work in the long run.) Don't know yet if I'll do all of them, or just some for side-by-side comparison. I did put rubber bands around each pot right under the edges, which will enable me to have more spots to tie down new branches. But for a more even canopy, SCROG would give me much more control.

I'd already decided that when I do try SCROG, the screens I build will also be pot "stands" per se, so that I can move the pots when necessary.... otherwise SCROG makes this difficult to impossible. Basically the 12"x12" screen, four legs, and a 12"x12" bottom. (Yes, six separate screens/frames; this way when one plant is harvested, I can move another in to start flowering.) I can't draw to save my life, especially on the computer, so I can't make a diagram. But I'm sure this is self-explanatory.

I've been researching like crazy, and know all the pros and cons to SCROG, so whether someone is "for or against" this method is a moot point with me.

I'm in need of finding materials to build my screens (and if there's something other than wood or PVC, that's great too; just something that will allow me to build frames), and again it needs to be from sites that accept PayPal as I won't have cash again till the 1st of next month.

I'm going to search the DIY section next, but I doubt that'll help me find a site that accepts PayPal.

You can buy with PayPal all over the 'net, but when you need something in particular it's harder to narrow all of that down.

Thanks in advance for any help/advice!

shnkrmn · #**2543** 08-10-2009, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GypsyBush

LB just came up with this AWESOME link...

Those are some of the best diagnostic pictures of insect damage and disease I've ever seen. Too bad the book costs $110.00!

Katatawnic · #**2544** 08-10-2009, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shnkrmn

Those are some of the best diagnostic pictures of insect damage and disease I've ever seen. Too bad the book costs $110.00!

Just click "File" in your browser, then "Save as HTML".... it works!

Granted, it's there on the site, but quite convenient to have it saved to your computer. (The Google navigation menu remains in the saved HTML file, but who cares? Saving an HTML file is free!) I tried to save the images, but it won't let me. It appears to be similar to a .pdf file.

$110 for a freaking book is just ridiculous! I mean, $110 to read about MJ plant diseases and pests?! That info is in a myriad of other books, not to mention all over the 'net! Unless this book is something sooo special that it's actually priced properly, but, uh, I doubt it.

shnkrmn · #**2545** 08-10-2009, 01:26 PM

That's a fairly typical price for an academic/professional book. On the low end actually. The authors are serious people familiar with all the latest research, not drug-addled hippies peddling old wives' tales.

Real information is valuable compared to the questionable nature of what's 'all over the net'. just compare the book's pix to the sorry ones on RIU's growfaq.

I just read the section in there on spider mites, everyone's favorite. I learned that permethrin (lice spray) is not only ineffective at killing mites, it induces increased egg laying. Sheesh. That explains a lot.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Katatawnic

Just click "File" in your browser, then "Save as HTML".... it works!

Granted, it's there on the site, but quite convenient to have it saved to your computer. (The Google navigation menu remains in the saved HTML file, but who cares? Saving an HTML file is free!) I tried to save the images, but it won't let me. It appears to be similar to a .pdf file.

$110 for a freaking book is just ridiculous! I mean, $110 to read about MJ plant diseases and pests?! That info is in a myriad of other books, not to mention all over the 'net! Unless this book is something sooo special that it's actually priced properly, but, uh, I doubt it.

Katatawnic · #**2546** 08-10-2009, 01:33 PM

That's perfectly understandable, aside from the price. I went to college, and never paid more than half, and most often closer to a quarter, of that price for any academic/professional book. Ever.

Further, when your only income is disability, you don't feel very inclined to pay $110 for a book, no matter how informative it is. I'll stick with the online version when I need reference.

GrowKindNugs · #**2547** 08-10-2009, 04:36 PM

jesus i fucking hate bugs...luckily in 6 years of indoor growing i haven't had anything worse than a couple of gnats, knock on wood...

i'm always on the lookout..i hope everyone is well, and has beautfiul plants goin...

gkn

GypsyBush · #**2548** 08-10-2009, 04:44 PM

Here's a worthy comparison for you guys...

DWR · #**2549** 08-10-2009, 04:54 PM

looking great there... do i see that correct ?

first 2 pics are earlier and last are later or now ?

cooooool shit m8, there going to get huge.... hope you get good harvests off these girls

GypsyBush · #**2550** 08-10-2009, 04:56 PM

Yup same plant.. progressively.. until you see them all in the last photo...

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