Didibreakit
Member
If I'm unable to get the Diamond K sulfate of potash 0-0-50, should i use twice the amount of E.B. Stone Sul-po-mag 0-0-22?
sharing my modified subcool super soil recipe
- Thread starter sidewing
- Start date
should be fine.. but sounds like there is magnesium in it also.. dunno if that would cause a problem, but probably not. only one way to find out 
. i think if you can get it, greensand might be better than sulfate of potash.. potassium sulfate tends to be used up rather quickly, where greensand is slower released.. so maybe even using both would be an idea to try.
i might get some greensand to add to the mix for sustained K throughout flower.. i ordered neem seed meal as well that im going to incorporate.
. i think if you can get it, greensand might be better than sulfate of potash.. potassium sulfate tends to be used up rather quickly, where greensand is slower released.. so maybe even using both would be an idea to try.i might get some greensand to add to the mix for sustained K throughout flower.. i ordered neem seed meal as well that im going to incorporate.
Crab Pot
Well-Known Member
Sidewing thanks for your helping us grow better medicine.
How much of the greensand and neem seed meal can I add and will the K in the greensand breakdown andd be available to our girls during flower? Perhaps adding potassium sulfate powder and greensand to the mix might give a double punch.
How much of the greensand and neem seed meal can I add and will the K in the greensand breakdown andd be available to our girls during flower? Perhaps adding potassium sulfate powder and greensand to the mix might give a double punch.well i got my neem seed meal too late to put it in the mix i just put into flowering. so i used it as a top dressing, it says 1 to 2 tablespoons per gallon.. so i used 7 tablespoons which came out to about 80-90grams. for 1 plant.. so by that math, i think i'll put 420 grams of neem seed meal in the soil mix (because my OCD says to use the same number as the other ingredients that use 420grams lol).. usually a batch of soil will be enough for 5 plants, so its about the same anyway.
i will order some greensand and see how much i will use, and yes i will use both. potassium sulfate is used up quickly, where greensand breaks down slower. cant give a value yet, but when i have one i will update you.
also i am going to go all round with just water only to experiment.. i think i'll dose em 1 time with LK, molasses, and hygrozyme on day 28.. other than that, water only.
i will order some greensand and see how much i will use, and yes i will use both. potassium sulfate is used up quickly, where greensand breaks down slower. cant give a value yet, but when i have one i will update you.
also i am going to go all round with just water only to experiment.. i think i'll dose em 1 time with LK, molasses, and hygrozyme on day 28.. other than that, water only.
Crab Pot
Well-Known Member
Sidewing- thanks for getting back to me! I used your recipe with a couple of modifications.
2 bags Roots Organics Organic Soil
15 lbs Roots Organics Earth Worm Castings
420g Fish Bone Meal (Down to Earth)
420g Blood Meal (Down to Earth)
50g Alfalfa Meal (Down to Earth)
60G Kelp Meal (Down to Earth)
210g Bat Guano 0-10-1 (Sunleaves Jamaican)
80g Potassium Sulfate 0-45-0 (Bonide Triple Super Phosphate)
280g Soft Rock Phosphate 0-2-0 (Dr Earth)
70g/1cup Diatomaceous Earth (Growmore)
330g/1cup Greensand (Down to Earth)
200g Azomite (Down to Earth)
2.5 tsp 3% Humic Acid Liquid (Humic- Old Aged Organics)
8g Epstom Salt Organic)
330g Mycorrhizal (Xtreme Mykos)
70g Xtreme Mycos
AACT(2.5 gal water, 2.5cups Roots EWC, 2.5tsp Molasses, 2.5 tsp Humic, 2.5tsp Maxicrop Soluble PowderKelp, 2.5 Sea Green,
3/4 tsp Super Thrive, 2.5 tsp Azomite) -Hydrated and innoculated SS mixture with AACT.
Cooked this mixture in for 30 days. Transplanted (2-RP og Kush #18 & 2- Reserva Privada Kosher Kush) from 2 gallon pots into 7 gallon Smart Pots (4/20/13) using approximately 50+% SS. Veg for additional 5 days and flip to 12/12 for a 1 month veg)
*I could not get Humic Acid powder in time so I went with the liquid and I will water with the liquid periodically. When and how much Humic liquid should I be watering with?
*I did not use Ancient Forest Humus because of a study I read at one point by Jeff Lowenfels (Teaming with Microbes) resulted in Ancient Forest Humus being similar in composition to to pest moss.
* Neem Seed Meal did not arrive in time to get into mix.
*I plan to use AACT's twice in flower and water with Hygrozyme, Humic (not sure how much and how often), Unsulfured Backstrap Molasses and Mycos
What do you think? My first time using SS and only my second grow! I hope I didn't screw up...
2 bags Roots Organics Organic Soil
15 lbs Roots Organics Earth Worm Castings
420g Fish Bone Meal (Down to Earth)
420g Blood Meal (Down to Earth)
50g Alfalfa Meal (Down to Earth)
60G Kelp Meal (Down to Earth)
210g Bat Guano 0-10-1 (Sunleaves Jamaican)
80g Potassium Sulfate 0-45-0 (Bonide Triple Super Phosphate)
280g Soft Rock Phosphate 0-2-0 (Dr Earth)
70g/1cup Diatomaceous Earth (Growmore)
330g/1cup Greensand (Down to Earth)
200g Azomite (Down to Earth)
2.5 tsp 3% Humic Acid Liquid (Humic- Old Aged Organics)
8g Epstom Salt Organic)
330g Mycorrhizal (Xtreme Mykos)
70g Xtreme Mycos
AACT(2.5 gal water, 2.5cups Roots EWC, 2.5tsp Molasses, 2.5 tsp Humic, 2.5tsp Maxicrop Soluble PowderKelp, 2.5 Sea Green,
3/4 tsp Super Thrive, 2.5 tsp Azomite) -Hydrated and innoculated SS mixture with AACT.
Cooked this mixture in for 30 days. Transplanted (2-RP og Kush #18 & 2- Reserva Privada Kosher Kush) from 2 gallon pots into 7 gallon Smart Pots (4/20/13) using approximately 50+% SS. Veg for additional 5 days and flip to 12/12 for a 1 month veg)
*I could not get Humic Acid powder in time so I went with the liquid and I will water with the liquid periodically. When and how much Humic liquid should I be watering with?
*I did not use Ancient Forest Humus because of a study I read at one point by Jeff Lowenfels (Teaming with Microbes) resulted in Ancient Forest Humus being similar in composition to to pest moss.
* Neem Seed Meal did not arrive in time to get into mix.
*I plan to use AACT's twice in flower and water with Hygrozyme, Humic (not sure how much and how often), Unsulfured Backstrap Molasses and Mycos
What do you think? My first time using SS and only my second grow! I hope I didn't screw up...
Im looking for the dolomite lime for this recipe and its been hard to find 30%cal 3%mag.
I found this online, would this work? in the thread they say its not dolomite tho? https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=137228
I found this online, would this work? in the thread they say its not dolomite tho? https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=137228
Crab Pot
Well-Known Member
A couple more questions...
Do you adjust the pH your water and if not what is the pH of the water your using? I'm using mostly distilled (6.5 pH where I purchase it from) with CalMag+ and Earthjuice down IF I need any pH adjustment after adding any ammendments to the water. I'm adjusting my final water/solution to 6.4 pH to water/foliar spray with. My well water has a pH of 7.7 and 230ppm. I thought it was worth purchasing distilled water primarily because of the improved pH but my well water would certainly be cheaper and easier. Maybe I should check out the water their selling in front of the market... out of that machine thing (RO water?). Just don't want to kill off my micro herd. Every time I add citrus acid (Earthjuice down) I cringe! I'm thinking... okay.. how much of the micro herd am I killing off this time (either in a tea or in the soil). I usually sprinkle mycos on the top of the soil right before I water.
Should I be using Succant over Molasses? Advantages/disadvantages?
* dap- dolomite lime should be available at most garden shops, home depot, lowes, etc.
Do you adjust the pH your water and if not what is the pH of the water your using? I'm using mostly distilled (6.5 pH where I purchase it from) with CalMag+ and Earthjuice down IF I need any pH adjustment after adding any ammendments to the water. I'm adjusting my final water/solution to 6.4 pH to water/foliar spray with. My well water has a pH of 7.7 and 230ppm. I thought it was worth purchasing distilled water primarily because of the improved pH but my well water would certainly be cheaper and easier. Maybe I should check out the water their selling in front of the market... out of that machine thing (RO water?). Just don't want to kill off my micro herd. Every time I add citrus acid (Earthjuice down) I cringe! I'm thinking... okay.. how much of the micro herd am I killing off this time (either in a tea or in the soil). I usually sprinkle mycos on the top of the soil right before I water.
Should I be using Succant over Molasses? Advantages/disadvantages?
* dap- dolomite lime should be available at most garden shops, home depot, lowes, etc.
The EJ PH up and down is usablefor organics if you HAVE to adjust PH, you shouldnt HAVE to adjust any liquids PH with super soil or any just add water type of growing.. I dont care what you read here, its bullshit, stop wasting you time with it...... Especially if your using distilled or reverse osmosis water theres absolutely no need ever to PH it... Those types of water are going to assume the PH of the soil and the things in it because theres zero buffers in it, just water with a nil value... as long as your soil has the proper buffers in it.... lime, oyster shell etc... theres no need to PH period... ever... there is way way to much of it going on in organic gardening... Its a waste of time and its more detrimental to your soil and all the things your worried about getting the PH correct for, those things adjust the PH where they need it... Let them do their job... your plants and your final product will benefit..
If your using distilled or RO, add enough GO ca/mg+ to bring the ppm up to 60 or so.... Your well water is sounding kinda harsh... I'd try not to use it if you could... I'd say get an RO maker but you should really get a fairly good one along with good pre-filter setup so it doesnt kill the membrane to quick, and the better RO makers dont waste so much water and wont suck your well dry because of the amount of waste water it produces.... some are 3-1 (waste-pure) but theres a lot offered in R/O makers today and the prices are going down for top of the line stuff.
Try this place, they'll basically make you anything you want, explain what you need to hook it up to and they'll provide all the fittings free and lay it out for you basically.. Just plug the hoses in...
http://www.purewaterproducts.com/
If your using distilled or RO, add enough GO ca/mg+ to bring the ppm up to 60 or so.... Your well water is sounding kinda harsh... I'd try not to use it if you could... I'd say get an RO maker but you should really get a fairly good one along with good pre-filter setup so it doesnt kill the membrane to quick, and the better RO makers dont waste so much water and wont suck your well dry because of the amount of waste water it produces.... some are 3-1 (waste-pure) but theres a lot offered in R/O makers today and the prices are going down for top of the line stuff.
Try this place, they'll basically make you anything you want, explain what you need to hook it up to and they'll provide all the fittings free and lay it out for you basically.. Just plug the hoses in...
http://www.purewaterproducts.com/
Crab Pot
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the reply whitey... EXTREMELY informative! I reviewed the Pure Water Products website and will be calling to place an order with them soon. It sounds like I should be drinking the RO water also.
Just so I'm clear... dissolved solids in well/city water act as buffers and when they are removed the water has close to zero buffers. Now that I have clean water (RO water) I go ahead and add Calmag+ to get the ppm up to 60 or so... then add any other additives and simply water. Don't I need to to pay attention to final ppm in my water? If so... what am I looking for with my plants.. leaf tip burning (?) and how do I determine the proper ppm's while using supersoil or do I? As an example... currently.. I have a AACT brewing [using 4 gallons distilled water, 20 ml (5ml/gal) Cal Mag+, 2 cups EWC, 20 ml (5ml/gal) 3% Humic Acid Liquid (I did not add additional Humic Acid Powder to my supersoil mix), 4 tsp (1tsp/gal) Maxicrop Soluble Powder 1-0-4, 2ml (0.5ml/gal) Sea Green, 2.5 ml (0.6ml/gal) Super Thrive and 4tsp Azomite] and the tea is at about 525ppm and had a ph of 7.0 before I adjusted the ph down to 6.4 using Earthjuice Down. I'm using a Blue Lab PH pen and Blue Lab Truncheon. I think I should of left the pH at 7.0 and let the Dolomite lime, Oyster shell, etc do their job. Where do I draw the limit on pH and start adding pH up/down.. or do I ever? I guess I could moniter the pH of my runoff water? I'm on day 34 veg and going to flip to 12/12 in a few days.
Just so I'm clear... dissolved solids in well/city water act as buffers and when they are removed the water has close to zero buffers. Now that I have clean water (RO water) I go ahead and add Calmag+ to get the ppm up to 60 or so... then add any other additives and simply water. Don't I need to to pay attention to final ppm in my water? If so... what am I looking for with my plants.. leaf tip burning (?) and how do I determine the proper ppm's while using supersoil or do I? As an example... currently.. I have a AACT brewing [using 4 gallons distilled water, 20 ml (5ml/gal) Cal Mag+, 2 cups EWC, 20 ml (5ml/gal) 3% Humic Acid Liquid (I did not add additional Humic Acid Powder to my supersoil mix), 4 tsp (1tsp/gal) Maxicrop Soluble Powder 1-0-4, 2ml (0.5ml/gal) Sea Green, 2.5 ml (0.6ml/gal) Super Thrive and 4tsp Azomite] and the tea is at about 525ppm and had a ph of 7.0 before I adjusted the ph down to 6.4 using Earthjuice Down. I'm using a Blue Lab PH pen and Blue Lab Truncheon. I think I should of left the pH at 7.0 and let the Dolomite lime, Oyster shell, etc do their job. Where do I draw the limit on pH and start adding pH up/down.. or do I ever? I guess I could moniter the pH of my runoff water? I'm on day 34 veg and going to flip to 12/12 in a few days.
The water is completely stripped of everything when it comes out of the RO unit... The only things that are kinda valuable in tap water to plants is the calcium and magnesium which is why its suggested to put it back, most people that are able to use aerated tap water (its usually decent if its around 100ppm) dont have to worry about ca/mg def.'s because the water has it in it already, some plants require more obviously but for the most part if you amend your soil with lime or whatever ca amendment, you wont really have to worry about it with tap... But we arent using it so we have to worry about.. Thats why I suggest starting with the ca/mg+ (general organics only here... seriously, all the others have 4 letter acronyms like EDTA and others that I cant think of right now that are better left at the hydro store for non-organic grows), you add that first so you have your "base water" all set which should eliminate ca/mg defs at any point as long as you start with that all the time except for the final weeks before harvest (straight RO only at that point)....
Quickly, take that superthrive and punt that shit into the nearest trash can... And calm down with the azomite... 4tsp is way to much... An 1/8th of a tsp (yeah I said 8th of a tsp) is good for up to 10 gallons of tea and only use that 1/8th of a tsp every 3rd-4th tea, azomite is potent shit and will quickly and easily cause salt built up killing off the micro-herd just like a synthetic nutrient will but much faster... I'm not sure what sea green is but you wanna keep the liquid based nutes to a minimum, the maxi-crop products are good and most bottled fish ferts are good also, but for the most part try to steer clear of them other than the mentioned stuff but always try to keep your NPK ratings below 5 for teas except on the guanos I'd say... If you are gonna use a bottled product, try to research it and see whats in it before using it... Also if it doesnt have an OMRI sticker, its probably best left on the shelf especially if its made by one of the MMJ specific grow companies. As I said about the 4 letter acronyms... if you see those on a bottle that says natural or organic without an OMRI label, leave it there...
As far as whats in city water being "buffers"... basically, kinda... Its just the shit thats in water like iron, calcium, magnesium. you get the point, most times you can go to a local city's website and they'll show you the break down of whats in your water.. but the effect of that stuff in your water acts like a buffer making the PH more "sturdy"?? It will take more PH up or down to get it to move and doesnt sway easily with anything you add to it... RO waters PH will swing wildly if you put a couple drops of anything in it because it has no dissolved solids in it to keep it stable... but thats not a bad thing... so whatever you add to it will, yes... drop or raise the PH hard... but because your soil has lime, oyster shell etc.... the water/solution/teas are going to adapt to your soils PH much easier and not impact the micro-life as hard, however... in either case, over the past year I've found it to be pointless to PH any of it... The more I worried about it aside from knowing what the values are, the more I caused problems by adjusting it...
Also, do not trust run-off as a guide to your soils PH... I would say maybe if you used RO water with nothing added but I cant really say that method is anywhere near accurate... Spend a few bucks on a soil PH meter... It doesnt even have to be a top $ one, but stay away from those 3 pronged things... A single probe style is what you want... I'd say you can find one for less than $40 that as long as you keep it clean will last forever... With that you can check soil that is cooking, soil that your plants are in etc...
If you feel you must adjust your PH, use citric acid or something organic and only change it slightly, I honestly suggest just leaving it alone. Taking a tea thats literally beaming with life that has whatever PH value, and then adjusting it, is just killing off life... and once the tea hits the soil is going to change to what the soil PH is anyhow... Its kinda redundant no? I havent adjusted the PH of anything in over a year and I'm doing fairly well, actually I'm finally getting better exponentially because I'm learning to keep it simple (KISS)... My time is better spent getting to know my strains and figuring out worm farms and recycling soil etc... When you see people watering their lawns, are they adjusting the PH of the water? No... they put down lime.... most people dont even know what PH is or why they need to put down lime in the first place.... They hear about PH on deodorant commercials for the most part....
And especially seeing your teas are literally perfect at 7.0 without adjustment... dont even bother dude.. You couldnt ask for a better PH if you tried, but again its not necessary because you are not feeding the plants, you are feeding the soil... people say it and read it constantly but they still feel the need to do this extra work thats more harm than good... I see people ruining their grows with this shit here in this forum and all the while people coaxing them into it and getting indignant if you say otherwise when they havent a clue, they think they do..... I know because I was one of them myself... "the way I know is best because its what I know"... I said this to another forum member recently... Its cognitive dissidence... people loose their minds because you say what they are doing or know is wrong, because someone they believed to be right told them it was or they read it on a forum... These forums are loaded with complete and utter bullshit... Theres literally decades of good reading knowledge here and on other forums, but you have to sift through a metric ton of bullshit to get a gram of gold...
Keep it simple is the best route brov... If you are using supersoil... You really dont need all that other stuff. Its not a bad idea to once in a while give your gals a tea to get the life beaming again but for the most part the supersoil will take care of everything... I honestly suggest not doing any of the extra shit like teas and all that with a round of supersoil hitting them with a sugar product at days 30 and 45 of flower as sub recommends to see what it will do for you without the extras... Then try a few teas here and there and see if its getting better or worse.... More is not better... Its a tough mentality to break out of, I'm still fighting myself daily on these things but you will see a difference once you find zen in the grow room... And by no means have I found it, I'm just on the right path finally... I think.....
The one time I'm finding its beneficial to hit my girls up with a heavy N tea is during the first weeks of 12/12 where the N is gonna get used up hard. If you are seeing deficiencies or any kind of leaf abnormalities in veg, dont flip them until you get them nice and healthy... Your leaves should be that nice dark green pre flip with no crunchies of any sort...
Good luck, if you need more help feel free to ask... and again.. keep it simple...
Quickly, take that superthrive and punt that shit into the nearest trash can... And calm down with the azomite... 4tsp is way to much... An 1/8th of a tsp (yeah I said 8th of a tsp) is good for up to 10 gallons of tea and only use that 1/8th of a tsp every 3rd-4th tea, azomite is potent shit and will quickly and easily cause salt built up killing off the micro-herd just like a synthetic nutrient will but much faster... I'm not sure what sea green is but you wanna keep the liquid based nutes to a minimum, the maxi-crop products are good and most bottled fish ferts are good also, but for the most part try to steer clear of them other than the mentioned stuff but always try to keep your NPK ratings below 5 for teas except on the guanos I'd say... If you are gonna use a bottled product, try to research it and see whats in it before using it... Also if it doesnt have an OMRI sticker, its probably best left on the shelf especially if its made by one of the MMJ specific grow companies. As I said about the 4 letter acronyms... if you see those on a bottle that says natural or organic without an OMRI label, leave it there...
As far as whats in city water being "buffers"... basically, kinda... Its just the shit thats in water like iron, calcium, magnesium. you get the point, most times you can go to a local city's website and they'll show you the break down of whats in your water.. but the effect of that stuff in your water acts like a buffer making the PH more "sturdy"?? It will take more PH up or down to get it to move and doesnt sway easily with anything you add to it... RO waters PH will swing wildly if you put a couple drops of anything in it because it has no dissolved solids in it to keep it stable... but thats not a bad thing... so whatever you add to it will, yes... drop or raise the PH hard... but because your soil has lime, oyster shell etc.... the water/solution/teas are going to adapt to your soils PH much easier and not impact the micro-life as hard, however... in either case, over the past year I've found it to be pointless to PH any of it... The more I worried about it aside from knowing what the values are, the more I caused problems by adjusting it...
Also, do not trust run-off as a guide to your soils PH... I would say maybe if you used RO water with nothing added but I cant really say that method is anywhere near accurate... Spend a few bucks on a soil PH meter... It doesnt even have to be a top $ one, but stay away from those 3 pronged things... A single probe style is what you want... I'd say you can find one for less than $40 that as long as you keep it clean will last forever... With that you can check soil that is cooking, soil that your plants are in etc...
If you feel you must adjust your PH, use citric acid or something organic and only change it slightly, I honestly suggest just leaving it alone. Taking a tea thats literally beaming with life that has whatever PH value, and then adjusting it, is just killing off life... and once the tea hits the soil is going to change to what the soil PH is anyhow... Its kinda redundant no? I havent adjusted the PH of anything in over a year and I'm doing fairly well, actually I'm finally getting better exponentially because I'm learning to keep it simple (KISS)... My time is better spent getting to know my strains and figuring out worm farms and recycling soil etc... When you see people watering their lawns, are they adjusting the PH of the water? No... they put down lime.... most people dont even know what PH is or why they need to put down lime in the first place.... They hear about PH on deodorant commercials for the most part....
And especially seeing your teas are literally perfect at 7.0 without adjustment... dont even bother dude.. You couldnt ask for a better PH if you tried, but again its not necessary because you are not feeding the plants, you are feeding the soil... people say it and read it constantly but they still feel the need to do this extra work thats more harm than good... I see people ruining their grows with this shit here in this forum and all the while people coaxing them into it and getting indignant if you say otherwise when they havent a clue, they think they do..... I know because I was one of them myself... "the way I know is best because its what I know"... I said this to another forum member recently... Its cognitive dissidence... people loose their minds because you say what they are doing or know is wrong, because someone they believed to be right told them it was or they read it on a forum... These forums are loaded with complete and utter bullshit... Theres literally decades of good reading knowledge here and on other forums, but you have to sift through a metric ton of bullshit to get a gram of gold...
Keep it simple is the best route brov... If you are using supersoil... You really dont need all that other stuff. Its not a bad idea to once in a while give your gals a tea to get the life beaming again but for the most part the supersoil will take care of everything... I honestly suggest not doing any of the extra shit like teas and all that with a round of supersoil hitting them with a sugar product at days 30 and 45 of flower as sub recommends to see what it will do for you without the extras... Then try a few teas here and there and see if its getting better or worse.... More is not better... Its a tough mentality to break out of, I'm still fighting myself daily on these things but you will see a difference once you find zen in the grow room... And by no means have I found it, I'm just on the right path finally... I think.....
The one time I'm finding its beneficial to hit my girls up with a heavy N tea is during the first weeks of 12/12 where the N is gonna get used up hard. If you are seeing deficiencies or any kind of leaf abnormalities in veg, dont flip them until you get them nice and healthy... Your leaves should be that nice dark green pre flip with no crunchies of any sort...
Good luck, if you need more help feel free to ask... and again.. keep it simple...
Crab Pot
Well-Known Member
Wow... I'm finally learning some good stuff.... thanks for your help Whitey (and sidewing)!
Whitey- I've read and reread your last post here many times and every time it makes me smile because you are not only teaching me to keep it simple with my gals but also to keep it simple with my life.. I REALLY needed that...
So I'm all in on the following:
Purchase General Organics ça/mg+, purchase RO system, punt the Super Thrive shit, cut way-way back on the Azomite, keep the N-P-K rating below 5 for teas except in guanos, purchase a reliable soil pH meter single probe style, read the labels of products, stay far away from any products with four letter acronyms like EDTA, let the soil do the pH work, flip only with green healthy vegetation (no crispy/crunchies), spend my time building soil/worm farming/learning strains/etc and.... keep it simple (KISS).
Questions on the following:
Best way to nail the pH while building supersoil?
Best way to alter the pH of potted/planted soil?
Suggestions/link for a reliable soil pH meter?
Recipe for a heavy N tea for the first weeks of 12/12?
Unsulfered backstrap mollases/sugars. Better to use though out grow or on day 30 and 45 as sub suggests?
How to do the N-P-K math when making teas or building supersoils?
Thoughts on Sea Green 1.5-0.5-4.0 (Derived from: fish hydrolysate also contains non plant food ingredient 3.7% humic acid derived from leonardite)? Apparently I was double dipping into the Humic Acids! Several times I added both Sea Green @ 0.5 ml/gallon and Humic @ 1 tbsp/gallon (3% Humic Acid liquid by Age Old Organics) to teas. I'm at a loss on which humic products are best for my current grow (36 days veg and flipped to 12/12 today using 1000w and supersoil in 7 gallon smart pots without any additional Humic Acid)
Strain suggestions for severe full body chronic neurological pain and muscle spasms?
I'm truly sorry for asking so many questions... it's about getting healthy again.... I'm starting to make progress (even if I'm still a newbie).. I'm learning how keep it simple...
YOU ALL ARE CHANGING MY LIFE FOR THE BETTER...THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL OF THE SUPPORT!
Whitey- I've read and reread your last post here many times and every time it makes me smile because you are not only teaching me to keep it simple with my gals but also to keep it simple with my life.. I REALLY needed that...
So I'm all in on the following:
Purchase General Organics ça/mg+, purchase RO system, punt the Super Thrive shit, cut way-way back on the Azomite, keep the N-P-K rating below 5 for teas except in guanos, purchase a reliable soil pH meter single probe style, read the labels of products, stay far away from any products with four letter acronyms like EDTA, let the soil do the pH work, flip only with green healthy vegetation (no crispy/crunchies), spend my time building soil/worm farming/learning strains/etc and.... keep it simple (KISS).
Questions on the following:
Best way to nail the pH while building supersoil?
Best way to alter the pH of potted/planted soil?
Suggestions/link for a reliable soil pH meter?
Recipe for a heavy N tea for the first weeks of 12/12?
Unsulfered backstrap mollases/sugars. Better to use though out grow or on day 30 and 45 as sub suggests?
How to do the N-P-K math when making teas or building supersoils?
Thoughts on Sea Green 1.5-0.5-4.0 (Derived from: fish hydrolysate also contains non plant food ingredient 3.7% humic acid derived from leonardite)? Apparently I was double dipping into the Humic Acids! Several times I added both Sea Green @ 0.5 ml/gallon and Humic @ 1 tbsp/gallon (3% Humic Acid liquid by Age Old Organics) to teas. I'm at a loss on which humic products are best for my current grow (36 days veg and flipped to 12/12 today using 1000w and supersoil in 7 gallon smart pots without any additional Humic Acid)
Strain suggestions for severe full body chronic neurological pain and muscle spasms?
I'm truly sorry for asking so many questions... it's about getting healthy again.... I'm starting to make progress (even if I'm still a newbie).. I'm learning how keep it simple...
YOU ALL ARE CHANGING MY LIFE FOR THE BETTER...THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL OF THE SUPPORT!
- Best way to nail the pH while building supersoil?
By "nailing" the pH while building supersoil, I take it as you want to get your pH to the desired level?
In that case, follow the recipe exactly, no guess work. If it says 5lbs, weigh out 5 lbs and then add it in. That especially goes for you Dolomite Lime. That is the most important component when it comes to the pH of your soil. Trust me, I made some SS and thought I could leave it out, big mistake.
Best way to alter the pH of potted/planted soil?
Not really any good ways, you can add lime to it, but it will take almost the entire flower cycle to start breaking down.
Suggestions/link for a reliable soil pH meter?
Amazon and read customer reviews.
Recipe for a heavy N tea for the first weeks of 12/12?
Why would you want heavy N for the first weeks of 12/12? I've always heard the exact opposite. Heavy N seems like it would only exacerbate the stretch. I usually give them a strong dose of Roots Organics HP2, (organic bat guano extract) on the last watering of veg and the first two waterings of 12/12. Seems to kick them into flower a little bit faster.
Unsulfered backstrap mollases/sugars. Better to use though out grow or on day 30 and 45 as sub suggests?
Molasses/sugars are good for feeding your beneficials in your soil at any stage of growth. But sub said it can choke out some oxygen if you use it too often, and i would agree with that. I use Hi Brix molasses on days 30, 40, and 45, and Advanced Bud candy on days 20, 30, 40, 45. Then RO water till the end.
Hope some of this helps.
As far as the calculations on using alternatives to build super soil... You got me there.... I would suggest starting with a solid start like subs mix and try small batches with a different N source or whatever... and work it that way.. I cant even begin to try to wrap my head around altering the standard SS mix... I havent even exhausted the OG mix and teas yet... I would suggest finding something to read on soil building with amendments or something because its really not as easy as it sounds to just swapping NPK values with products.. Some of these things compost a certain way.... or honestly I dont know... I started doing a little reading about soil composting etc.. but I just had to much going on to actually try doing some of it to understand it.. I wish I had the space to experiment more but I dont at the moment... So for now I'm gonna stick with the original or most recent version of subs supersoil just because it takes very little guess work and the yields are on par with most any other method of growing that should normally surpass organic growing and the resin production is kinda tough to beat... For now and for me... But I'm all ears or eyes or whatever to see what you guys come up with...
As far as a sugar product... I use strapped from botanicare... it comes in gallon jugs and its basically black strap molasses but thinned out a bit, I'm guessing because its just not as thick as regular molasses.... But its $16-17 a gallon as opposed to $5-8 a pint or whatever... I use it in my teas etc... @ 1TBS per gal just like molasses...
As far as a sugar product... I use strapped from botanicare... it comes in gallon jugs and its basically black strap molasses but thinned out a bit, I'm guessing because its just not as thick as regular molasses.... But its $16-17 a gallon as opposed to $5-8 a pint or whatever... I use it in my teas etc... @ 1TBS per gal just like molasses...
Crab Pot
Well-Known Member
Right on Bodega... thank you for answering all those questions for me!
It makes sense to follow the recipe exactly and yes... get the dolomite lime in there. I'm guilty of always adding more and more to my teas etc . Whitey really made an impression on me a few posts back... keep it simple (KISS). I was complicating things by adding everything I possibly could to my teas and for that matter my soil too. And now your telling me to do basically the same thing... simply follow the recipe... I'm converted... I'm already keeping it simple and following the recipe... reading labels etc. I was stressing about every detail and over treating. Now.. the stress is gone and I'm enjoying my grow a whole lot more. Thanks again...
I think I'm going to hold off off on the soil pH meter until I get a good recommendation from a farmer on this site.
As far as a recipe for a heavy N tea during the first weeks of flower. That was a tea that Whitey likes to make and I was curious how that recipe comes together. I would give your Roots Organics HP2 but I'm keeping it simple and following the recipe... lol. No really... that sounds like it could really give the gals a boost. Are you making any teas yourself?
I didn't know the molasses could choke out the oxygen... it seems logical.. I'm cutting back... thanks once again!
How are you liking the Advanced Bud Candy?
I appreciate your wisdom... I'm paying attention and feel more confident already... this is great!
Hello whitey... I'm actually using sidewings recipe on my first supersoil grow and just went to 12/12 yesterday. They vegged in straight Roots Organics... I thought they were doing fine except for some light stress early on (I had 1000 watts too close to the tops even though I had the temps down in the low 70's) but as soon as I transplanted into this supersoil the gals took off in a good way. The overall appearance improved substantially over night... I was shocked... I just hope I have the right amount in the pots.. to get a good fade. I probably should do a side by side with subs recipe to get a feel between the two mixes. Have you tried sidewings recipe? I was wondering what other growers thought who have tried both recipes. But... so far.... I couldn't be happier with how this is going.
Strapped (Botanicare) sounds like it's easier to use than the thick stuff I'm using. Whenever I get that stuff out... I know there's going to be a big mess. My wife used some of my backstrap molasses to make ginger snap cookies...yum-yum! Sounds like I am going to give Strapped a try when I use up the rest of what I have. Thanks for the idea whitey! Why is it so cheap compared to the thick stuff.. with the same dosage?
Good idea on reading up about soil building. I've read "Teaming with the Microbes" a couple of times... great stuff.
OG mix? I feel like I should know what OG mix is...
You growers are so generous with your grow info... really awesome!
Any thoughts on Hygrozyme?
Where's sidewing?
I couldn't resist Attitude's DNA Limited Edition release. I ordered the following today:
DNA Genetics Limited Edition Hitman OG (6 seeds regular)
DNA Genetics Limited Edition Purple LA (6 seeds fem.)
DNA Genetics Limited Edition Island (6 seeds fem.)
Granddaddy Purple Seeds Original (10 seeds regular)-I had to try these too!
UFO Freebies:
TH seeds Darkstar (1 seed fem.)
Female Seeds Bubblegummer (1 seed fem.)
Female Seeds Lemon Kush (1 seed fem.)
Female Seeds Purple Maroc (1 seed fem.)
DNA Genetics La Chocolat (1 seed fem.)
Promotional Freebies:
Delicious SeedsCritical Sensi Star
World of Seeds Autoflowering Northern Lights x Big Bud
World of Seeds Legend Collection Afghan Kush Special
It's a good day... I ordered the t-shirt with the seeds.. I hope they make it safe and sound... what do you guys think?
It makes sense to follow the recipe exactly and yes... get the dolomite lime in there. I'm guilty of always adding more and more to my teas etc . Whitey really made an impression on me a few posts back... keep it simple (KISS). I was complicating things by adding everything I possibly could to my teas and for that matter my soil too. And now your telling me to do basically the same thing... simply follow the recipe... I'm converted... I'm already keeping it simple and following the recipe... reading labels etc. I was stressing about every detail and over treating. Now.. the stress is gone and I'm enjoying my grow a whole lot more. Thanks again...
I think I'm going to hold off off on the soil pH meter until I get a good recommendation from a farmer on this site.
As far as a recipe for a heavy N tea during the first weeks of flower. That was a tea that Whitey likes to make and I was curious how that recipe comes together. I would give your Roots Organics HP2 but I'm keeping it simple and following the recipe... lol. No really... that sounds like it could really give the gals a boost. Are you making any teas yourself?
I didn't know the molasses could choke out the oxygen... it seems logical.. I'm cutting back... thanks once again!
How are you liking the Advanced Bud Candy?
I appreciate your wisdom... I'm paying attention and feel more confident already... this is great!
Hello whitey... I'm actually using sidewings recipe on my first supersoil grow and just went to 12/12 yesterday. They vegged in straight Roots Organics... I thought they were doing fine except for some light stress early on (I had 1000 watts too close to the tops even though I had the temps down in the low 70's) but as soon as I transplanted into this supersoil the gals took off in a good way. The overall appearance improved substantially over night... I was shocked... I just hope I have the right amount in the pots.. to get a good fade. I probably should do a side by side with subs recipe to get a feel between the two mixes. Have you tried sidewings recipe? I was wondering what other growers thought who have tried both recipes. But... so far.... I couldn't be happier with how this is going.
Strapped (Botanicare) sounds like it's easier to use than the thick stuff I'm using. Whenever I get that stuff out... I know there's going to be a big mess. My wife used some of my backstrap molasses to make ginger snap cookies...yum-yum! Sounds like I am going to give Strapped a try when I use up the rest of what I have. Thanks for the idea whitey! Why is it so cheap compared to the thick stuff.. with the same dosage?
Good idea on reading up about soil building. I've read "Teaming with the Microbes" a couple of times... great stuff.
OG mix? I feel like I should know what OG mix is...
You growers are so generous with your grow info... really awesome!
Any thoughts on Hygrozyme?
Where's sidewing?
I couldn't resist Attitude's DNA Limited Edition release. I ordered the following today:
DNA Genetics Limited Edition Hitman OG (6 seeds regular)
DNA Genetics Limited Edition Purple LA (6 seeds fem.)
DNA Genetics Limited Edition Island (6 seeds fem.)
Granddaddy Purple Seeds Original (10 seeds regular)-I had to try these too!
UFO Freebies:
TH seeds Darkstar (1 seed fem.)
Female Seeds Bubblegummer (1 seed fem.)
Female Seeds Lemon Kush (1 seed fem.)
Female Seeds Purple Maroc (1 seed fem.)
DNA Genetics La Chocolat (1 seed fem.)
Promotional Freebies:
Delicious SeedsCritical Sensi Star
World of Seeds Autoflowering Northern Lights x Big Bud
World of Seeds Legend Collection Afghan Kush Special
It's a good day... I ordered the t-shirt with the seeds.. I hope they make it safe and sound... what do you guys think?
I use Komas recipe for my Teas except the Carboload since my bud candy has all of the same carbs.
Recipe:
5 gal RO water
2 tsp Roots Oregonism XL
5 Tbsp Hi brix Molasses
2 tsp of some sort of Ascophyllum nodosum sea weed extract. (usually 0-2-2, or 0-4-4)
(in Komas recipe it also calls for 4 Tbsp AN powdered Carboload)
You can also add in some bat guano if you want more P. As well as some EWC, for more beneficials.
I use it once about a week after final transplant, and then again sometime during first week of flower.
I'm using Roots Organics Extreme serene, cheaper than Nitrozime, but not as concentrated. I believe maxicrop uses the nodosum sea weed/kelp extract as well.
Recipe:
5 gal RO water
2 tsp Roots Oregonism XL
5 Tbsp Hi brix Molasses
2 tsp of some sort of Ascophyllum nodosum sea weed extract. (usually 0-2-2, or 0-4-4)
(in Komas recipe it also calls for 4 Tbsp AN powdered Carboload)
You can also add in some bat guano if you want more P. As well as some EWC, for more beneficials.
I use it once about a week after final transplant, and then again sometime during first week of flower.
I'm using Roots Organics Extreme serene, cheaper than Nitrozime, but not as concentrated. I believe maxicrop uses the nodosum sea weed/kelp extract as well.
I dont know about it choking out oxygen but over doing it with molasses will put to much magnesium into the mix... Then combine that with a cal/mag product, lime.... you get the point, you wanna stop any and all cal/mag, molasses etc... by the time your 2 weeks from estimated finish, if possible the last sugar application around day 45... I've never heard the thing about it causing lack of O2... but I imagine way way over doing it may cause some headaches.. as long as you stay within the 1TBS per gallon of water range and put a watering without it between uses, you'll be fine... You can apply compost teas every time but its not practical and from what I've read its not gonna provide them with anything more or whatever... I suggest taking it easy with the teas once you start getting into weeks 2-3-4 in 12/12 and stick with the watering only if you are using suggested pot fill amounts..... What I did by using 50% in the pot and applying teas was cause the food to last much longer and is definitely not what you want... This current round of girls I have going I had just enough SS to maybe put an inch of SS on the bottom of each pot so I used compost teas every 3rd watering and when they started fading a little to hard, every other watering which kept them from fading a little to early, 1 still faded a little to quick and my yield is gonna hurt from it but it will be primo smoke thats for sure, but having to much is even worse honestly I say after my last round where I used to much... Having them go to long is gonna make the smoke taste like shit, and more than likely you'll be into weeks 10 and 11 on an 8 week strain before you finally say screw it and chop them anyway which is literally what I did last time.. Once the end of life nanner factory's went to work I chopped even though they werent "done"...
Hygrozyme.... Its ok... I cant say its something I would spend that kind of $ on anymore... I'd have to see some actual data to prove it does something aside from the "secret sauce" label on it, I know it does something because if you keep applying it past week 6 in 12/12 your plants will never finish so it does assist in breaking down whatever it breaks down... But can it justify $35 a liter... not really, I dont think so.. I have used it in the past, I actually used a bottle not to long ago but I didnt really see anything special going on to warrant continued use of it... My roots seem to look the same when they're dead if I used it or not... I'd say if your serious about using it, and I said this to someone here yesterday, do a side by side with it... see if you can see a difference on 2 plants from clone that otherwise are the same... that'll tell you everything... theres actually a pretty decent home grower article on THCfarmer (I think his name was "bayarea") where a commercial soil grower did some testing with a whole slew of bottled organic nutrients with and without hygrozyme, down to stem weight and circumference etc..... however I have yet to see anything done with supersoil or any just add water type of growing and hygrozyme.... I think most growers are thinking that the point of going to a "just add water" type of grow is to kinda leave the bottled shit alone..
Endo/ecto products like oregonism xl are getting wasted if you are putting it in your teas from the beginning, you can get some use out of it if you put it in your tea right before applying it but myco products arent gonna survive without live roots to attach to... mycorrhizae is the relationship between fungi and roots by definition. I'm not sure if oregonism is soluble, if it is I'd suggest putting it in water and applying it rather than putting it in a tea where its probably gonna become food.... Its like burning $ if you are brewing it in a tea and it only needs to be applied once at transplant and once or twice more throughout the life cycle of a plant...
OG mix... I just meant subs original/most recent mix... Nothing special thats all. I've just got into the supersoil myself my past few go rounds and I have not tried any others, for now I just wanna get a base down and work with a few of the same strains for a bit slowly working in a couple here and there... Since I've started growing, my methods and all that have been in constant change, when your constantly adjusting without a baseline, your never gonna know whats better, worse, or just the same... Thats how I feel anyhow, or how I started to feel as of recently...
As far as the strapped being cheaper... I have no idea but I'm thinking along the lines of it being whipped senseless with some water to thin it out... Its a sugar and derived from black strap molasses, thats the only info on the label... I havent had any of my teas go anaerobic on me yet which is what happens when there isnt enough sugar to keep the good bene's reproducing, once the sugars run out the bad bene's start eating the good ones and the tea will start to smell like sewage... and you'll know if you apply one thats for sure.. But if it doesnt smell sweet or earthy, and starts to get a shitty stink to it, throw it out...
Hygrozyme.... Its ok... I cant say its something I would spend that kind of $ on anymore... I'd have to see some actual data to prove it does something aside from the "secret sauce" label on it, I know it does something because if you keep applying it past week 6 in 12/12 your plants will never finish so it does assist in breaking down whatever it breaks down... But can it justify $35 a liter... not really, I dont think so.. I have used it in the past, I actually used a bottle not to long ago but I didnt really see anything special going on to warrant continued use of it... My roots seem to look the same when they're dead if I used it or not... I'd say if your serious about using it, and I said this to someone here yesterday, do a side by side with it... see if you can see a difference on 2 plants from clone that otherwise are the same... that'll tell you everything... theres actually a pretty decent home grower article on THCfarmer (I think his name was "bayarea") where a commercial soil grower did some testing with a whole slew of bottled organic nutrients with and without hygrozyme, down to stem weight and circumference etc..... however I have yet to see anything done with supersoil or any just add water type of growing and hygrozyme.... I think most growers are thinking that the point of going to a "just add water" type of grow is to kinda leave the bottled shit alone..
Endo/ecto products like oregonism xl are getting wasted if you are putting it in your teas from the beginning, you can get some use out of it if you put it in your tea right before applying it but myco products arent gonna survive without live roots to attach to... mycorrhizae is the relationship between fungi and roots by definition. I'm not sure if oregonism is soluble, if it is I'd suggest putting it in water and applying it rather than putting it in a tea where its probably gonna become food.... Its like burning $ if you are brewing it in a tea and it only needs to be applied once at transplant and once or twice more throughout the life cycle of a plant...
OG mix... I just meant subs original/most recent mix... Nothing special thats all. I've just got into the supersoil myself my past few go rounds and I have not tried any others, for now I just wanna get a base down and work with a few of the same strains for a bit slowly working in a couple here and there... Since I've started growing, my methods and all that have been in constant change, when your constantly adjusting without a baseline, your never gonna know whats better, worse, or just the same... Thats how I feel anyhow, or how I started to feel as of recently...
As far as the strapped being cheaper... I have no idea but I'm thinking along the lines of it being whipped senseless with some water to thin it out... Its a sugar and derived from black strap molasses, thats the only info on the label... I havent had any of my teas go anaerobic on me yet which is what happens when there isnt enough sugar to keep the good bene's reproducing, once the sugars run out the bad bene's start eating the good ones and the tea will start to smell like sewage... and you'll know if you apply one thats for sure.. But if it doesnt smell sweet or earthy, and starts to get a shitty stink to it, throw it out...
Crab Pot
Well-Known Member
Bodego... I like your tea recipe... have you thought about adding a little quality compost for your flowering tea? Thinking that it might reinoculate the fungi population in your medium for flowering? Curious to know your thoughts. And yes... other than transplant... I'm sprinkling the mycos on top of my medium just prior to watering also.
Crab Pot
Well-Known Member
Hi whitey... you brought up an interesting... how much supersoil to add to the pot to get the proper fade? Can you give me an idea of how much you think I should of added to my 7 gallon Smart pots? (I used approximately 50+% of sideways supersoil recipe) I'm running two og#18 and two kosher kush.
I'm not brewing mycorrhizae in my teas... I'm sprinkling them onto of my medium and watering them in (also sprinkling them ALL over the roots at transplant). I am going to take your advice once again and discontinue the teas (currently on day #7 flower) unless I start to fade too early (fat chance with 50% supersoil I would imagine).
It makes a lot of sense to me on what you said about sticking with your baseline mix and working with the same strains for a few grows. How do you feel about the different mixes that you've tried to this point and what strains are you running?
I'm not brewing mycorrhizae in my teas... I'm sprinkling them onto of my medium and watering them in (also sprinkling them ALL over the roots at transplant). I am going to take your advice once again and discontinue the teas (currently on day #7 flower) unless I start to fade too early (fat chance with 50% supersoil I would imagine).
It makes a lot of sense to me on what you said about sticking with your baseline mix and working with the same strains for a few grows. How do you feel about the different mixes that you've tried to this point and what strains are you running?
I have no idea other than you gotta start somewhere.... Your SS is a different "brand" than mine, but the concept is the same... start with an amount and fine-tune to perfection... You want them to fade at the right time but not too early or else yield will suffer, however either way usually provides the best med as long as you get some fading going on... Why that happens is a whole different topic...
Start with your strains.... Ok they look like they're indy leaning strains so it would lead me to believe they're gonna eat on the light side but its not always the case, sometimes certain phenos can be hungry bitches and others can be the opposite, all within the same strain... so it brings me right back to my point of start with a set amount and fine tune from there... That is the whole benefit of running the same strains a few times even with the same exact method of feeding. You really dont know what strain has to offer until you've done it right, and most times you wont get it right the first time... Also, clones always seem to be a completely different plant than the from seed parent, so I really dont make any stone set decisions until I see what a strain does from clone... Say you like a strain but you dont feel like continuing to run it at present time, or have something else you wanna run, clone it... put it in a small square pot and banzai that bitch and keep her on standby until you feel like running her again...
Most growers, seasoned or otherwise usually arent gonna take a strain they've never grown for the first time and absolutely crush it, growing it to utter perfection first go round... The pros can probably get close but its tough to nail a strain down top to bottom the first few times, never mind the first time... Its all about watching and seeing what can be improved... You have a good base to start with, some strains are gonna want more or less of this or that but for the most part you are giving them everything they need, now just work the amounts out... This reverts back to using the same base soil (concentrate, but just saying stick with the same thing).... If you keep adjusting and tinkering before you know whats what, you'll always be trying to improve on something thats wasnt a steady baseline to start with...
This run you put 50%... when they fade perfectly, or not... tweak from there... I think 50% concentrate is a bit much honestly but I dont know how long you plan on vegging or how long either of those strains take to flower.. Most of the nerds here that use 7 gallon pots are vegging for 40-60 days and for the most part they're running 8 to 10 flowering week strains... I may go a little bigger than a 7 in smarty's myself because I'm watering every day in 7 gallon smart pots at the moment but that has nothing to do with how much they'd need...
I personally think its better to start with less when a new strain is gonna be ran... Obviously research the strains and see if you can find anyone running it, preferably using your methods but if not try to find out if they're a heavy eater or not.. I would have suggested you start with 25% and leave room to top dress if you see they need more, as well as you always have the option to hit them with a tea, with added nutrition or not, depending on what they need, once you put it in there, theres no taking it back, you see? Its like a piece of wood or anything similar, once you cut it, theres no putting it back... Cut a little less off, and if you need to remove more, its there to be removed if you need it.... Same concept with supersoil/concentrate feeding... You can always add more but you cant take it back once its in the pot and the plant digs her roots into it... You can do things like watering with chlorinated water etc... but thats what we are fighting against doing, we want organic perfection without the bullshit added...
Its all about learning patience and not rushing something that cant be rushed as hard as it sounds... I'm having a hard time myself with this but its really the only way...
Start with your strains.... Ok they look like they're indy leaning strains so it would lead me to believe they're gonna eat on the light side but its not always the case, sometimes certain phenos can be hungry bitches and others can be the opposite, all within the same strain... so it brings me right back to my point of start with a set amount and fine tune from there... That is the whole benefit of running the same strains a few times even with the same exact method of feeding. You really dont know what strain has to offer until you've done it right, and most times you wont get it right the first time... Also, clones always seem to be a completely different plant than the from seed parent, so I really dont make any stone set decisions until I see what a strain does from clone... Say you like a strain but you dont feel like continuing to run it at present time, or have something else you wanna run, clone it... put it in a small square pot and banzai that bitch and keep her on standby until you feel like running her again...
Most growers, seasoned or otherwise usually arent gonna take a strain they've never grown for the first time and absolutely crush it, growing it to utter perfection first go round... The pros can probably get close but its tough to nail a strain down top to bottom the first few times, never mind the first time... Its all about watching and seeing what can be improved... You have a good base to start with, some strains are gonna want more or less of this or that but for the most part you are giving them everything they need, now just work the amounts out... This reverts back to using the same base soil (concentrate, but just saying stick with the same thing).... If you keep adjusting and tinkering before you know whats what, you'll always be trying to improve on something thats wasnt a steady baseline to start with...
This run you put 50%... when they fade perfectly, or not... tweak from there... I think 50% concentrate is a bit much honestly but I dont know how long you plan on vegging or how long either of those strains take to flower.. Most of the nerds here that use 7 gallon pots are vegging for 40-60 days and for the most part they're running 8 to 10 flowering week strains... I may go a little bigger than a 7 in smarty's myself because I'm watering every day in 7 gallon smart pots at the moment but that has nothing to do with how much they'd need...
I personally think its better to start with less when a new strain is gonna be ran... Obviously research the strains and see if you can find anyone running it, preferably using your methods but if not try to find out if they're a heavy eater or not.. I would have suggested you start with 25% and leave room to top dress if you see they need more, as well as you always have the option to hit them with a tea, with added nutrition or not, depending on what they need, once you put it in there, theres no taking it back, you see? Its like a piece of wood or anything similar, once you cut it, theres no putting it back... Cut a little less off, and if you need to remove more, its there to be removed if you need it.... Same concept with supersoil/concentrate feeding... You can always add more but you cant take it back once its in the pot and the plant digs her roots into it... You can do things like watering with chlorinated water etc... but thats what we are fighting against doing, we want organic perfection without the bullshit added...
Its all about learning patience and not rushing something that cant be rushed as hard as it sounds... I'm having a hard time myself with this but its really the only way...