Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers

Kite High

Kite High

Well-Known Member
Yep... Promix is cheap and with this calcium engorged high pH soil the decaying peat acidifies it to where I can grow more in my yard.
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Organics break down and with that so does good soil structure unless you add more vermiculite, perlite and/or sand. Yep, used potting soil goes into my veggie garden too.

If you bake to reuse, don't go over 190F (actually I like to stay a bit under) based on an accurate temp probe.
 
O

overmyhead

Well-Known Member
UB - you mentioned the polyon cfr, in a 18-4-9, can you give us any source where we can order this or where we'd start looking for a retailer? My googling wasn't very successful. Also, you mention Jacks classic like the cirturs you just got. Do you use those alongside the crf or in place of and are you using the citrus yet? It seems as if none of the jacks classics have Ca, do they get enough from the soil - is the supplementation of ca just for hydro? If you're using the citrus feEd how do your girls like it?
 
Kite High

Kite High

Well-Known Member
Why would you want urea? Nitrate is ready to go with no need of bennies nor enzymes to convert it. Urea is fine but no actually needed. Check out jacks orchid 3-1-2.
 
Know One

Know One

Well-Known Member
Hi UB, a huge Thanks to you and to all others that have opened my eyes over the last week reading this thread.
I started doin' my thang 8 years ago and now I am starting over.
Originally I did rockwool, drip system, and Flora Nova A & B. Seemed to work okay but I wanted bigger and better. After having gone through the plethora of methods and techniques (not to mention finances), UB along with a few others (you know who you are) have made life (and growing) simple and cheap.

I do need help.
I dropped 7 babies from seed into 1"X1" cubes, all sprouted (5-Cherry OG, 1-AK Auto, 1-Blue Hash)
Once a tap root appeared, I did one up potting into 6" pots W/Perlite until those roots showed.
So I decided yesterday to go get plain potting soil from Lowes which is .10 .10 .10. This contains:
"bat guano, worm poop, composted chicken manure, kelp meal, rice hulls and a little perlite".
I also added some #3 coarse Perlite to the mix.I have ordered Jacks Classic Duo and look forward to using that as well (hope all will be fine until I receive it).
So, about the crash. Last Night a catastrophe. The whole shelf with the newly transplanted babies fell. They're about 5" tall. I was there when this happened, I immediately transplanted back (Lost the Blue Hash tho). Today they do not look very good and I am asking for any tips? Or should I just wait and hope they recover?
---Does the mix seem correct- .10 .10 .10 ?
I think I am on track with that but want to do a double check.
---Do you think I will be okay not using Jacks for 4 or 5 days with this mix?
They are under a shop cfl light, 80 watts.

Before -4/14 DSC04108.jpg
Today/After -4/20 DSC04127.jpg
Before -4/14 DSC04103.jpg
Today/After -4/20 DSC04128.jpg

Thanks again to the true master growers here for all your shared knowledge.
 

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Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Sorry about your mishap, but I think they look fine. You use a plant food based on a plant's needs. When they're bulking up they'll need a bit more than like now.

Good luck!
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
overmyhead said:
UB - you mentioned the polyon cfr, in a 18-4-9, can you give us any source where we can order this or where we'd start looking for a retailer? My googling wasn't very successful. Also, you mention Jacks classic like the cirturs you just got. Do you use those alongside the crf or in place of and are you using the citrus yet? It seems as if none of the jacks classics have Ca, do they get enough from the soil - is the supplementation of ca just for hydro? If you're using the citrus feEd how do your girls like it?
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Osmocote is easier to find. Benefit of Polyon is that it releases its salts based on soil temps, not just moisture. I have trouble finding small jars of Osmocote with micros though. Polyon is sold thru suppliers to the commercial ag trade in 50 lb. bags. BWI in the states would be one such outfit but they will refer you to a local feed store, Walmart, nursery who they wholesale to.

Nutricote is one sold in stores, aka Dyamite sold at Home Depot.

The slow release should be all you need from start to finish. May have to tweak it once in a while. I get Ca from dolomite and my water source. Haven't used the Citrus FeED for cannabis but another grower is and doing fine with it.

UB
 
burgertime2010

burgertime2010

Well-Known Member
Have you ever been in a situation where your colas are ripe, ready, and flushed but the bottoms are too fluffy and still immature. I want to give the canopy a buzz cut and let the bottoms go another week or so. There is a lot down there and I would like to see them harden. Any suggestions???
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
burgertime2010 said:
Have you ever been in a situation where your colas are ripe, ready, and flushed but the bottoms are too fluffy and still immature. I want to give the canopy a buzz cut and let the bottoms go another week or so. There is a lot down there and I would like to see them harden. Any suggestions???
Click to expand...
I do a second harvest all the time. Cut at a point on the colas where the colas turn to fluff and then put the plant back under the lights to bulk up the lower buds.
 
burgertime2010

burgertime2010

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben said:
I do a second harvest all the time. Cut at a point on the colas where the colas turn to fluff and then put the plant back under the lights to bulk up the lower buds.
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I am using Ph'ed RO with 100 ppm cal mag water should I give em a little juice? I have flushed them quite well and am concerned that my week to 10 days or whatever it needs will be to long with out food.
 
ataxia

ataxia

Well-Known Member
hopeyougotadutch said:
Sounds good. On the topic of organics, I've heard the chlorine/chloramine could play an ill effect, would you be willing to clear that up for me?
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I've heard and have been hearing the same things. Specifically from the Rev. But it makes me wonder. What water was he using before they started table top R/O filters. I think in a style like TLO (if that's what you're referring to), chloramine should be left out, but if you aren't depending on microbes doing ALL the work for you, i don't think it's an issue. More of a style than anything. and obviously chloromine isn't effective in killing gnat larvae so i doubt it kills all microbial activity like most state.

also disagree with what the other guy was saying about keeping your indoor environment sterile including the water.

Uncle Ben said:
Wonder who the author is and if he really has any credentials. Citrus aka orange works, so does a drench of malathion. Not sure about the BT.
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(Bt) works fantastic as a soil drench to kill gnat larvae, although it's non-systemic, and claimed to have no ill effects. In hindsight however, i'd try a more organic approach. Drenching my soil with a pesticide laden water doesn't make me feel warm and cozy. It definitely works though.
 
chuck estevez

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
burgertime2010 said:
I am using Ph'ed RO with 100 ppm cal mag water should I give em a little juice? I have flushed them quite well and am concerned that my week to 10 days or whatever it needs will be to long with out food.
Click to expand...
flushing is for toilets, do you know what happens to living things when you stop feeding them? Google soil leaching, it is used to remove excess salt build up in soil, you can't flush nutrients out of a plant by flooding it with water.
 
burgertime2010

burgertime2010

Well-Known Member
Plants do eat however. With a reduction in food as well as their metabolism using nutrients you can. I ramp down and end with just enough ppm to keep my Ph stable. My plants look terrific that is not the issue....this is a question of how to re-introduce nutrients. I do not feed until the end because it is a waste.
 
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