Guide to Nutrient Deficiency or Toxicity

Bakatare666

Well-Known Member


I disagree with this. I was taught that dark deep green leaves is where you want your plants to be, as this was a sign of healthy nutrient flow to the roots. Jorge Cervanties says it as well; he's on this cite in "Grow Videos".

I have 13 ladies right now that are reaching for the stars and are thriving and healthy. They are deep in green color. I've even flushed them (as I do every 3-4 weeks) and they are still deep in color. Can you please source your information? a link would be suffice, as to where it says that deep green leafs are too rich in nitrogen?

Thanks,

NC

View attachment 1894153


Here's a chart that I use for reference.View attachment 2513062
 

mel frank

Member
Zinc deficiency is easy to distinguish from iron deficiency, but both, and manganese deficiency too, should all be treated at the same time with a product like Ironite, which contains all three.5_Insects_def_4_003.jpg This first image shows four plants two afghani and two sativas to show various degrees of iron deficiencies. Notice leaves are normal size--veins remain green while tissue between veins yellows or whitens, starting at their base. Second image show Zn deficiency next to iron deficiency. Notice that the top growing shoot is distorted, with a telltale right angle twist to a leaf blade (often, but not always). Leaf surfaces are often corrugated, and growing shoot is always undersized. Look closely at the bottom left tiny growing shoot in third image to see a severe Zn deficiency.
5_Insects_def_4_012.jpg IMG_8286.jpg
All three of these deficiencies start at the growing shoots because, unlike most major nutrients, these micronutrients aren't mobile in the plant--the plant can't move them to where they're most needed, as happens with the three major nutrients. Incidentally, I don't have an good image available for manganese deficiency, but had a grower back in the 70s that continually had a problem devastating his plants. It turned out to be manganese, confirmed by laboratory analysis. The symptom for severe Mn deficiency was unusual with the leaf margins (edges of leaf blades) remaining green while inner tissue and veins turned yellow. Leaf blades then had a perimeter of green around inner yellow tissue. Watch your pH as these problems generally appear in alkaline mediums. If you are using hard water, you'll likely see these. Hope these help. Generally a good rundown. If I have time, I'll revisit and post more photos of others.
 

desertdog

Well-Known Member
I used 0 tolerance to get rid of gnats and it worked, but the plants looked like they began to die the next day so I washed them off several times and saved half of them. The problem now is lock out! Which is odd because the food was very low and fine until I used this crap. It did the same thing to my lettuce and pepper plants. What is really weird is some plant got molybdenum lockout while others go Mag lock out. I have been running low doses of peters to bring em out but two more died and as they went they looked like they had been bleached the tissue was still soft in the leaves and white. The other plant looks like it is suffering mag lock out even though I keep flushing every two or three days and running cal mag and peters. It looks a litter better after adding the cal mag, but all the stems are dark purple and looks like mag lock out. 0 tolerance is strong shit even in the ready to use formula do not use more than 20% of volume. I started at 20% and went to 30% and then my plants started dying and this is the ready to use already mixed formula!! It kills and keeps bugs from wanting to return, but it must be used at low volume. I am amazed that the gnats and spider mites don't come back they must hate the smell. I just wish I could get my pinapple Kush to bounce back. Any help would be great. Bubba Kush can take the 0 tolerance well just stay at 25% to volume of water other plants 20. The pineapple K is coming back it just is taking forever and I worried it might just give up like the big bud x white widow.
 

desertdog

Well-Known Member
I saved my plants by flushing, washing with ro water, soaking in water with h202, then giving a 1/4 strength dose of peters. O tolerance will kill your plants at any strength if you don't do what I did to save them, they just keep burning even though you did not feed them a damn thing. It also causes lock out. Until I treated them for lock they just kept dropping leaves. I had to give the mild peters every day for a week before they grew green leaves without burnt edges and spots. Don't use this shit on anything. I only used it at 1/4 strength and it was ready to use saying use 50/50 dillution. It fried plants that were two feet tall and three months old, so heed the warning. I am fucking pissed all of my organic food plants have like three leaves on em and it killed half of my girls before I realized I needed to treat it like a fert burn.
 

highfirejones

Active Member
I'm starting to measure the health of my plants by that shine on the leaves, a little light or dark is ok but when I lose the shine it seems to be bad, splotches come next and next to no growth, get shine back, get growth back, what's up with that is that just a sign of overall health, anyone?
 

highfirejones

Active Member
my exp tells me yellowing is usually over watering or underfeeding, overfeeding seems to cause me a general bad look, burned tips, spots, dull dirty splotchy looking leaves with little to no growth, yours look overwatered to me but its always safe to assume over watering and nuting that way u take the safe fix of water and low nutes, that way if you're wrong you probably won't kill them or stunt them for nearly as long, in my humble 3 harvest newbie opinion
 

Sincerely420

New Member
In my humble 1 harvest newbie opinion(I like how you worded that haha) I'd say they look over watered and over fertilized as well, and that in the first pic your plants are prob root bound which F's with their ability to get the right nutes, and brings on discoloration that can correct itself if you transplant it on time!
I had it happen not too long ago(a month maybe).
And IDK about the single cola guys, but I'd hit one of them up if I were you. Maybe you've got too much branching for a solo grow hence the being root bound.
Second pic looks a lot better but the leaves are still showing some moisture stress.

The fix I suggest, transplant the solos in 1 gal grow bags and wait until you big plant wilts to water it again, and from then on water it a day before it wilts.
I.e if it wilts after not being watered for 5 days, water it every 4th day. Then when it wilts on the 4th day, water it every third & so fourth so on :joint:
 
In my humble 1 harvest newbie opinion(I like how you worded that haha) I'd say they look over watered and over fertilized as well, and that in the first pic your plants are prob root bound which F's with their ability to get the right nutes, and brings on discoloration that can correct itself if you transplant it on time!
I had it happen not too long ago(a month maybe).
And IDK about the single cola guys, but I'd hit one of them up if I were you. Maybe you've got too much branching for a solo grow hence the being root bound.
Second pic looks a lot better but the leaves are still showing some moisture stress.

The fix I suggest, transplant the solos in 1 gal grow bags and wait until you big plant wilts to water it again, and from then on water it a day before it wilts.
I.e if it wilts after not being watered for 5 days, water it every 4th day. Then when it wilts on the 4th day, water it every third & so fourth so on :joint:
Thank you for the advice. I well do that once my hand heals or have assistance.
 
If you suspect nutrient stress, sample when symptoms first appear. To ensure quality results, multiple samples should be collected from comparable locations (similar topography, aspect and soil type) and at the same time of day. Is important to collect the part of the plant that will give the best indication of the nutrient status of the whole plant. The youngest mature leaf is typically used, however, appropriate plant parts to test will vary with crop type and growth stage. Collect numerous (20-30) sub samples of parts from plants that appear both abnormal and healthy, if possible. Sub samples may be combined for one sample. To gather plant samples, use a clean plastic or paper container (metal containers can contaminate samples). If the samples have soil, fertilizer, or spray residues on them, clean gently with a dry brush or with deionized or distilled water. Do not prolong washing because it can leach nutrients out of the tissue. Air-dry samples in the shade in either a paper bag or envelope. To avoid decomposition, do not use plastic bags or send fresh samples. When mailing samples to the laboratory, include type and variety of crop, current and past crop management practices, irrigation frequency (if applicable), soil type (if known),visual
appearance of crop, and any insect or disease problems.
 
the leafs on my plant is turning black purple and a fly strip fell on it is my plant toast i think it is a male because i see footballs all around it and i still want the seeds but is my plant toast :oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::oops:
 

Twiggs1620

Member
hey could u take a took at the post i put maybe u can help me out
Come now dude, I know this thread is about helping people. If you read from the beginning he says how he did this thread so that you can do a bit of the work yourselves. Now he gotta wipe some bums too?? F me. Atleast have the common courtesy to post pictures in his thread so he doesnt need to spend hours looking for one piddly little thread amongst thousands. I apologise for being a douche but i just wish people will use theirs heads.
 

Brianjox

Active Member
I have forget. I read it some where. Stems/ veins go red is a deficiency off ???? We want those mothers cuttings green Green not woody. The deficiency is????
 
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