It doesn't get much easier than this:
http://www.shroomery.org/10858/How-to-do-Coir
Add a cup of gypsum.
Use a pot of coffee instead of equal amount of water.
Some use coffee grounds, I prefer not to, simply paranoid on contams from them since this is pasteurized, not sterilized, and they were wet growing things already.
Less water is better. It is very difficult for me to judge when "squeezing", and more water is higher contam possibility. Before using this tek, I usually ended up with too much water. Now I just use 4.25 quarts total and it is perfect.
Some people tape a black plastic bag on the bottom of clear tubs to block light to avoid side pins. It also hugs the side of the myc block so it minimizes the moisture crevice. Others put a layer of duct tape on the outside. I like to be able to see the side, and like side and bottom pins and so I leave it clear. I also flip the block later, so it is good for that surface to be primed with light.
This is not the talked about 50/50 substrate recipe. It has a lot less verm than that one. I find this better for spreading out without having wet lumps. 50/50 has too much water for me. Also, myc eats coir faster than verm, so it grows faster.
This tek does not include casing. As canndo has pointed out, casing almost always increases your flushes. It does this by giving water, a layer of microclimate for pins to generate, as well as give an area to harvest from that does not end up ripping up the myc base during harvest, which in turn makes later flushes better.
On the other hand (sorry canndo), you may find your particular myc fruit well and recover well (enough) to do without it, thereby saving a pasteurization step. I suggest you try a tub with each (using the same myc base, hopefully from an isolate or clone) and see if it matters to you.
If you are in the US and have a Staples, they are having a sale on semi-clear 60 quart stackable tubs for $7 a pop.
Go to a craft supply store. Buy a "hot knife" for $14. This is an exacto blade in a soldering iron base. Do NOT get the "hot knife" from a Radio Shack. They look like dull butter knives and suck.
Use this to cut your holes in the tub. If you use a razor or drill there is always a chance for splitting or shattering the plastic.
Go get a box of contractor clean up bags. These are huge thick plastic bags that you can fit a tub in.
Get a big bottle of h2o2. Get used to spraying it on everything all the time. The myc will eat it (well, not in strong concentrations, but anything left over from this process won't hurt it), and it'll kill mostly everything else. After cleaning the tubs with bleach in prep mode, rinse, then rinse again with h202, sealing it up with the lid until you are ready to work on it.
Contams in this stage SUCK. There should be NO standing water or wet mush on the bottom of the tub when you are done. Put the tub in a bag and LEAVE IT ALONE for 2 weeks. DO NOT PEEK!
You will be showering, cleaning yourself, doing clean prep, etc. And then you will be isolating yourself and then you will attempt to shake the fuck out of your jars in a tight warm space, possibly over clothed. Do not do this,. Shake up your jars BEFORE you do your clean prep, out in the open area. This will give you room to move around without disturbing a clean space, and a chance to cool down. Spray your bottles with h2o2 before moving them into the clean area.
Use gloves and mask for all work that has exposed substrate (post pasteurized) or exposed grains. Watch it, the h202 overspray will burn you.
