Unlimited Black Gold Fetilizer!!! Under 50$? DIY

DIYguy

Member
You heard right kiddos! Two words, WORM CASTINGS.

What if I told you that for under 50$ and about 30 minutes of your time you could create an environment that would create one of the best fertilizers in the world that is safe indoor and outdoor and is completely organic???

Call me crazy (YOUR CRAZY!), but I am hear to tell you that not only is it possible but I will show you how to do it.

Stick around boys and girls!

In my next post I will take you step by step on the materials I used and the method of construction.

-DIYguy
 

DIYguy

Member
MOTIVATION FOR PROJECT:

Let me get to the point, I AM A CHEAP BASTARD. I have researched organic fertilizers, and if you have done the same you know what worm castings are and how great they work for your prized plants(of all species). I refuse to buy anything that I can produce myself within reason. With that said, I decided to build my own worm bin based on many common DIY designs that anyone with a search engine can find in two seconds. What I am doing is nothing new but I believe this information needs to get circulated to our members here in rollitup. I do have a compost pile in my backyard that supports my outdoor garden (I would never use outdoor compost indoors), but with winter quickly crawling upon us I decided that I was going to raise a few mothers indoors to supply clones to my outdoor garden next spring. With the construction of a worm bin I will be able to support my mothers all winter and well into forever with casting/worm tea at a cost of less than 50$ and a maintenance cost of NOTHING, ZERO, buy feeding them kitchen scraps.

SHOPPING LIST:

2 plastic storage bins with lids. 5$ Each at my local superstore.
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Galvanized hardware with nuts, quantity(9). 1$ dollar at local super store.(sorry crappy shot)
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Galvanized screen used for gutters, 1/8 inch squares. Had them cut at local hardware store to desired size 1$
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DIYguy

Member
CONSTRUCTION:

Take bin A and drill drainage holes (1/2 inch) into the lowest point of the bin. Insure you are leaving room for spaces to drill holes for the hardware that will secure our screen that will keep our worms from falling through.
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Next we will lay our strips of screen down and drill our guide holes that will secure the screens. Once the guide Holes are made we can secure the screen with the hardware to keep them in place.
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Here is one from the other side with everything secured.
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I have placed a terracotta container inside Bin B so that Bin A(which will sit inside Bin B) has room to drain and breath oxygen.
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Now simply take Bin A and slide it into Bin B like so.
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As you can see I have drilled holes into the lid to allow oxygen into the bin.
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DIYguy

Member
Construction of worm bin is now completed which leads us to our two final steps.

-Create bedding for worms.
-Purchasing RED WIGGLER worms and introducing them to the environment.

BEDDING:

Let me explain, there are many different recipes on the bedding for worms and I suggest looking over them. I am simply using things I have.

Bottom layer is a couple heaping hand fulls of composted steer manure.
Middle layer is a single shredded up banana peal, a dozen crushed up egg shells and half a rotten cucumber. LESS IS MORE, GO LIGHT AT FIRST!
Top layer is about 6 inches of shredded newspaper. YOU CANT HAVE TO MUCH!

I have sprayed the layers very lightly with water (dechlorinated) so it is moist but not soggy and wet.

WORMS: I was able to find a local breeder of RED WIGGLERS(composting worms) on craigslist for 25$ a pound. One pound will be fine to start the colony. As time goes on they will breed and multiply and be able to accept more and more food on a weekly schedule. I will be picking them up tomorrow and will post more as soon as I can.

-DIYguy
 

malignant

Well-Known Member
once you start feeding them they become your pets, dependent on you. if you return them to the ground they will die off rapidly. big responsibility karmatically.
 

DIYguy

Member
Hey Endur0xX and malignant! Thanks for checking my post out ;)

So to answer your question Endur0xX, in my case I am starting with a pound of worms which will process about a pound of waste a week. To be generous I would say about 2-3 months max (worm castings harvested). But before I even harvest out the bin and reset, I will be collecting worm piss/liquid at the bottom bin which in turn can be diluted to about 20-1. I will be using that for a majority of feedings until the colony really starts picking up. I should have usable liquid after about 2 weeks.

I hope this sparks your interest into building your own worm bin guys.

-DIYguy
 

Endur0xX

Well-Known Member
I got more soil than I need for a while here, (only growing 5 plants at a time...) but I will definitely follow your progress, perhaps, near the end of the winter, I will start one up to use in the outdoor garden and next year will most likely be using my own worm castings for indoor growing!! I guess the worms dont even try to escape that box... not that messy?, it could be done in the basement sort of deal? let me know about the odors as well when you have been doing it for a while if you do it inside as well. thanks!
 

Afka

Active Member
Your bin is way over-built.

I use old DWC rezes. Put some screen on the holes where the pots went. Done!
I've 3 of those, and 3 older models with holes in the bottom, etc. They're unnecessary if you have an adequate bedding of shredded paper to wick up all the water.

I have the 3 non-draining buckets an arms length away from me in my office. They don't smell.
 

DIYguy

Member
I got more soil than I need for a while here, (only growing 5 plants at a time...) but I will definitely follow your progress, perhaps, near the end of the winter, I will start one up to use in the outdoor garden and next year will most likely be using my own worm castings for indoor growing!! I guess the worms dont even try to escape that box... not that messy?, it could be done in the basement sort of deal? let me know about the odors as well when you have been doing it for a while if you do it inside as well. thanks!
Thanks for your post Endur0xX

Having extra soil is never a problem ;)

I highly recommend you start this project when you can. Works great in and out. WILL NOT BURN PLANTS! Your plants will love you for it.

Worms will never leave the box, UNLESS THE CONDITIONS ARE TOXIC. Too much water, too much food not enough bedding. All very amateur mistakes that I am hoping not to make.

Again the smell should be awesome inside. Nice and earthy. Stink would be caused but things listed above like to much water, food scraps or not enough air.

Hope this answers your questions!

-DIYguy
 

DIYguy

Member
TO ALL CONSIDERING THIS PROJECT CHECK THIS SITE OUT!!!!

http://www.wormvideoclips.com/

I am actually buying the worms from the sites sponsor from his actual house! I willl see if you will let me take pictures and have him check out my bin and get his advice and bring it back here. I will update tonight! SO excited!

(what a nerd...)
-DIYguy
 

DIYguy

Member
Your bin is way over-built.

I use old DWC rezes. Put some screen on the holes where the pots went. Done!
I've 3 of those, and 3 older models with holes in the bottom, etc. They're unnecessary if you have an adequate bedding of shredded paper to wick up all the water.

I have the 3 non-draining buckets an arms length away from me in my office. They don't smell.
Thanks for the post afka!

I am not sure what a DWC is but think that has something to do with hydro/areoponics right? CAN WE GET A PICTURE OR TWO OF YOUR SET-UP PLEASE!!!

I created the drain so I could harvest the liquid (worm casting are not always practical topped of container plants) and screen to keep the worms from drowning. For good or bad that was my logic but have yet to put it into practice quite yet. Tonight is the night though ;). Worms are going in today!

-DIYguy
-DIYguy
 

Afka

Active Member
I wouldn't use the runoff as a fertilizer. Compost leachate is not yet ready to be used, it requires further processing.

DIY Deep Water Culture (DWC) tubs use rubbermaid or similar containers, just as your design. All you need is adequate aeration at the top (Big holes + screening, cloth or pantyhose). The drainage is unnecessary as the worms won't drown themselves, they'll climb to higher ground. In fact, I've had anaerobic worm tubs, and they did great in there too. It smelled god awful and stayed like a goopy swamp bottom, but the worms lived. It must have been a pH of 3 or less in there.

Anyway, I've done some bins with just aeration holes at the top. I layered a good 3-5" of shredded paper. On that I cut old zucchinis and cucumbers from the garden and layered those until I had a whole layer of that. I repeated the process of Nitrogen/Carbon sandwiching 4-5 times until it was full to the brim. (I had lots of cucumbers.) I expected the vast amounts of water from the cucumbers but the alternate layers of paper helped soak everything up. There's a inch deep pool of pure liquid at the bottom, the worms like hanging out right at the edge of the water level, and everywhere above it.

The full bucket was 1/3 full 1 month later, and nothing was what it used to be. All you could see were slight bits of paper scraps in a sea of castings.

The most important thing for a worm compost, is to bury the food in a dense layer of Carbon based mulch. Be it already finished worm compost, paper, or straw, etc. It will not only be the carbon source for the composting process (most of our kitchen waste is N based), and will prevent access to the rotting produce.
OTHERWISE YOU WILL HAVE A SHIT TON OF FRUIT FLIES AND SCIARIDS.
 
Hello One and All, Their are many types of worm beds from large to small. I have been doing reserch on this for a couple of month. Their are many good sits out their the one I like most is Red Worm Composting it is free to join and lots of info what is nice is this guy will answer all questions and he also sells worms.
 

mRIZO

Active Member
i wanna see some worm pics!!

DIYguy did you abort mission?
Endur0xX, when / how do you harvest your castings? (why is this all in bold now? FML)
I ventured outta DWC land tonight, this isnt really my thing but FREE SHIT is :D

and so, this never smells at all?
 

Luger187

Well-Known Member
ive been thinking of doing something like this for next years crop. i heard it doesnt smell as long as its covered by dirt(in compost piles) or something else. do you guys think it would be better to put air lines into the lid of the box instead of just holes? that way it gets an air supply, but bugs cant get in.
 

DIYguy

Member
Alright kids, I went to San Jose to score this fat sack.... OF WORMS!

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I got these from TheWormDude! PLEASE CHECK HIM OUT!

http://www.thewormdude.com/

I drove from Fremont down to San Jose to pick them up from his house. SUPER NICE GUY! Answered all my questions, super patient too.

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I just throw them in and they shot down into the bedding! I am super excited guys!

Okay enough gushing... phew!

-DIYguy
 

DIYguy

Member
I wouldn't use the runoff as a fertilizer. Compost leachate is not yet ready to be used, it requires further processing.

DIY Deep Water Culture (DWC) tubs use rubbermaid or similar containers, just as your design. All you need is adequate aeration at the top (Big holes + screening, cloth or pantyhose). The drainage is unnecessary as the worms won't drown themselves, they'll climb to higher ground. In fact, I've had anaerobic worm tubs, and they did great in there too. It smelled god awful and stayed like a goopy swamp bottom, but the worms lived. It must have been a pH of 3 or less in there.

Anyway, I've done some bins with just aeration holes at the top. I layered a good 3-5" of shredded paper. On that I cut old zucchinis and cucumbers from the garden and layered those until I had a whole layer of that. I repeated the process of Nitrogen/Carbon sandwiching 4-5 times until it was full to the brim. (I had lots of cucumbers.) I expected the vast amounts of water from the cucumbers but the alternate layers of paper helped soak everything up. There's a inch deep pool of pure liquid at the bottom, the worms like hanging out right at the edge of the water level, and everywhere above it.

The full bucket was 1/3 full 1 month later, and nothing was what it used to be. All you could see were slight bits of paper scraps in a sea of castings.

The most important thing for a worm compost, is to bury the food in a dense layer of Carbon based mulch. Be it already finished worm compost, paper, or straw, etc. It will not only be the carbon source for the composting process (most of our kitchen waste is N based), and will prevent access to the rotting produce.
OTHERWISE YOU WILL HAVE A SHIT TON OF FRUIT FLIES AND SCIARIDS.

Thanks for the advice Afka!

You mentioned not using the liquid run off, citing that it requires further "processing". I brought this up the WormDude (Jerry G.) and he said "Processing? I guess you could call adding water processing..." He also told me that the concentration of the liquid isn't going to have much going on at first. Basically telling me not to bother.

If you can, please expand on the processing aspect you mentioned PLEASE!

Thanks again...

-DIYguy
 
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