What Is Best Soil pH?

Rufus T. Firefly

Well-Known Member
I should start a grow page here soon, my last grow was with a coco mix, this grow is with the Happy Frog Soil. Liking the soil so far. The listing I have there is just for reference, not a link, I get asked a lot what I'm using so thought I'd just list it there. Last night I was up to midnight reading this fabulous website I found Googling shit. And was blown away that Alfalfa Meal and Kelp Meal is favored for the Veg stage, then when you flip they recommended you use Neem Seed Meal with the Kelp Meal instead. o_O Who would of thunked it!? I was always using the Neem Seed Meal to help with the Gnats around the area here, read that a little of the stuff was a great deterrent of pests and unwanted nematodes. Turns out it's highly beneficial in the flowering stage! Just 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons is needed. And you only need to feed it once a month. About the same feeding schedule as the Earth Dust amendments I'm using. (Has that AZOMITE in there too ) :) I have to announce the member who got me going in the right direction here, without him reaching out to me I'd still be chasing my tail here, he's been a great member friend and I owe him a debt of gratitude. @Syntax747
I would offer this friendly suggestion, you should have your soil tested before you start adding all kinds of amendments. If you really want to know what your plants need you might want to do a tissue analysis before flipping.

None of that costs very much through Logan Labs, full on soil test is like $60 and I think the tissue is $40. Of course you'll need to be able to read those tests and know the amounts to amend. You can get both done for under $100.

Maybe it's not worth the money for some folks and I can understand that. It is for me because I got tired of guessing what the problems were, tired of guessing what the solutions were.
 

Week4@inCharge

Well-Known Member
I would offer this friendly suggestion, you should have your soil tested before you start adding all kinds of amendments. If you really want to know what your plants need you might want to do a tissue analysis before flipping.

None of that costs very much through Logan Labs, full on soil test is like $60 and I think the tissue is $40. Of course you'll need to be able to read those tests and know the amounts to amend. You can get both done for under $100.

Maybe it's not worth the money for some folks and I can understand that. It is for me because I got tired of guessing what the problems were, tired of guessing what the solutions were.
Did you still have to check the pH of your soil?
 

Rufus T. Firefly

Well-Known Member
Did you still have to check the pH of your soil?
The soil test includes pH. Mine was 6.4. I don't pH anything. All I do is water and trop dress some EWC and compost very now and again. I'll test the soil after every cycle and see what amendments, if any, needs to be added back.

Plain water, no nutes, no guessing what the plant may be lacking.

If you want a primer on living organic soil check out Jeff Lowenfel's Teaming with Microbes.
 

Week4@inCharge

Well-Known Member
The soil test includes pH. Mine was 6.4. I don't pH anything. All I do is water and trop dress some EWC and compost very now and again. I'll test the soil after every cycle and see what amendments, if any, needs to be added back.

Plain water, no nutes, no guessing what the plant may be lacking.

If you want a primer on living organic soil check out Jeff Lowenfel's Teaming with Microbes.
Ok, I'm following you now, I got talked into going organic with this current grow and didn't know much about it starting (as to what this dry amendment did and why), I knew it was different from Bottled nutes. FoxFArm HAppy Frog soil is a claimed 6.5pH, and I'm using Earth DUst All NAtural Plant Nutrients, it's a proprietary blend of dry organic amendments that you mix in the soil and let them cook for 4 weeks before using. They have a base blend (which you use in Veg) and a boost blend that's ( fed a week before ) when you flip to flower, and 4 weeks later the third and last feed, and done, just add non pH'd water. I'm slowly learning what each ingredient in the mix does for the plant.

EARTH DUST BASE
Derived From:
ORGANIC ALFALFA MEAL, ORGANIC WHEAT MIDDLINGS, ORGANIC SOYBEAN MEAL, ORGANIC POTASSIUM SULFATE, ORGANIC STEAMED BONE MEAL, DRIED MOLASSES, DISTILLERS GRAINS, AZOMITE™ , ORGANIC HUMIC ACID, ORGANIC KELP MEAL, ORGANIC WORM CASTINGS, INSECT FRASS, MICRACULTURE PLANT PROBIOTICS
EARTH DUST BOOST
Derived From
: ORGANIC ALFALFA MEAL, ORGANIC WHEAT MIDDLINGS, ORGANIC BAT GUANO, ORGANIC POTASSIUM SULFATE, ORGANIC STEAMED BONE MEAL, DRIED MOLASSES, DISTILLERS GRAINS, AZOMITE™ , ORGANIC HUMIC ACID, FISH MEAL, ORGANIC KELP MEAL, ORGANIC LIMESTONE, MICRACULTURE PLANT PROBIOTICS
Countains Billions of Microbes (Fungi & Bacteria) from Micraculture’s Plant Probiotics:

My little (it could've been bad but it's not, thank goodness) mistake was not checking the pH of the soil of each pot. I mean we're really hard on ourselves here if you think about it. A leaf gets a little wrinkle and we're quick to dial 911 EMERGENCY. These plants are not perfect specimens. They're gonna show signs of weakness here and there, that's how they communicate with us. Especially if they're taken out of their comfort zone. Show your grow to a layman and they're blown away..wow those look Fabulous.. Show your grow to a member here..that plant at the bottom left of your pic need more Nitrogen.. :D

Interesting, so when a cycle ends you send a sample of the soil in to see what's used up or not. You got the wheels in my head spinning again. I think what dropped my pH so low was the 4 cups of earthworm castings I poured at the top of the soil. I thought for sure one of my plants soil had a high pH i(I didn't have my soil pH tester last week, just got it) and read up that dropping organic compost , Alfalfa and or earth worm castings could drop that down a bit. It's complicated, long story short, that one plant is recovering well. Hence the importance to check your pH of your soil. It changes, it's constantly changing, no test could tell you what your soils pH is gonna be in two weeks from now, there's no way. Soils break down, how you water your plants can change the pH, and we haven't even gotten to the feeding, (for those who use synthetic nutes) So check your pH.
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Ok, I'm following you now, I got talked into going organic with this current grow and didn't know much about it starting (as to what this dry amendment did and why), I knew it was different from Bottled nutes. FoxFArm HAppy Frog soil is a claimed 6.5pH, and I'm using Earth DUst All NAtural Plant Nutrients, it's a proprietary blend of dry organic amendments that you mix in the soil and let them cook for 4 weeks before using. They have a base blend (which you use in Veg) and a boost blend that's ( fed a week before ) when you flip to flower, and 4 weeks later the third and last feed, and done, just add non pH'd water. I'm slowly learning what each ingredient in the mix does for the plant.

EARTH DUST BASE
Derived From:
ORGANIC ALFALFA MEAL, ORGANIC WHEAT MIDDLINGS, ORGANIC SOYBEAN MEAL, ORGANIC POTASSIUM SULFATE, ORGANIC STEAMED BONE MEAL, DRIED MOLASSES, DISTILLERS GRAINS, AZOMITE™ , ORGANIC HUMIC ACID, ORGANIC KELP MEAL, ORGANIC WORM CASTINGS, INSECT FRASS, MICRACULTURE PLANT PROBIOTICS
EARTH DUST BOOST
Derived From
: ORGANIC ALFALFA MEAL, ORGANIC WHEAT MIDDLINGS, ORGANIC BAT GUANO, ORGANIC POTASSIUM SULFATE, ORGANIC STEAMED BONE MEAL, DRIED MOLASSES, DISTILLERS GRAINS, AZOMITE™ , ORGANIC HUMIC ACID, FISH MEAL, ORGANIC KELP MEAL, ORGANIC LIMESTONE, MICRACULTURE PLANT PROBIOTICS
Countains Billions of Microbes (Fungi & Bacteria) from Micraculture’s Plant Probiotics:

My little (it could've been bad but it's not, thank goodness) mistake was not checking the pH of the soil of each pot. I mean we're really hard on ourselves here if you think about it. A leaf gets a little wrinkle and we're quick to dial 911 EMERGENCY. These plants are not perfect specimens. They're gonna show signs of weakness here and there, that's how they communicate with us. Especially if they're taken out of their comfort zone. Show your grow to a layman and they're blown away..wow those look Fabulous.. Show your grow to a member here..that plant at the bottom left of your pic need more Nitrogen.. :D

Interesting, so when a cycle ends you send a sample of the soil in to see what's used up or not. You got the wheels in my head spinning again. I think what dropped my pH so low was the 4 cups of earthworm castings I poured at the top of the soil. I thought for sure one of my plants soil had a high pH i(I didn't have my soil pH tester last week, just got it) and read up that dropping organic compost , Alfalfa and or earth worm castings could drop that down a bit. It's complicated, long story short, that one plant is recovering well. Hence the importance to check your pH of your soil. It changes, it's constantly changing, no test could tell you what your soils pH is gonna be in two weeks from now, there's no way. Soils break down, how you water your plants can change the pH, and we haven't even gotten to the feeding, (for those who use synthetic nutes) So check your pH.
Who checks and adjust's the pH for cannabis (or any outdoor plant, tree, or bush), growing wild in nature?
 

myke

Well-Known Member
I would offer this friendly suggestion, you should have your soil tested before you start adding all kinds of amendments. If you really want to know what your plants need you might want to do a tissue analysis before flipping.

None of that costs very much through Logan Labs, full on soil test is like $60 and I think the tissue is $40. Of course you'll need to be able to read those tests and know the amounts to amend. You can get both done for under $100.

Maybe it's not worth the money for some folks and I can understand that. It is for me because I got tired of guessing what the problems were, tired of guessing what the solutions were.
Someone posted a video with a soil dude talking about soil tests,somewhere here in organic section.Any who it left me saying tests where not very effective for a home built soil.
Maybe someone has that video?
 

Week4@inCharge

Well-Known Member
Who checks and adjust's the pH for cannabis (or any outdoor plant, tree, or bush), growing wild in nature?
Not sure never grown out doors before, I can imagine law of nature remains. If your outside that sweet spot, our ladies are gonna suffer. Humboldt County has some of the best dirt around, hence some of the best weed around for example. They were huge in the 80's
 

Bignutes

Well-Known Member
I agree, sure weed can be grown outside it’s optimum, but as soon as you venture out of the sweet spot window expect a more difficult grow.
 

Rufus T. Firefly

Well-Known Member
Ok, I'm following you now, I got talked into going organic with this current grow and didn't know much about it starting (as to what this dry amendment did and why), I knew it was different from Bottled nutes. FoxFArm HAppy Frog soil is a claimed 6.5pH, and I'm using Earth DUst All NAtural Plant Nutrients, it's a proprietary blend of dry organic amendments that you mix in the soil and let them cook for 4 weeks before using. They have a base blend (which you use in Veg) and a boost blend that's ( fed a week before ) when you flip to flower, and 4 weeks later the third and last feed, and done, just add non pH'd water. I'm slowly learning what each ingredient in the mix does for the plant.

EARTH DUST BASE
Derived From:
ORGANIC ALFALFA MEAL, ORGANIC WHEAT MIDDLINGS, ORGANIC SOYBEAN MEAL, ORGANIC POTASSIUM SULFATE, ORGANIC STEAMED BONE MEAL, DRIED MOLASSES, DISTILLERS GRAINS, AZOMITE™ , ORGANIC HUMIC ACID, ORGANIC KELP MEAL, ORGANIC WORM CASTINGS, INSECT FRASS, MICRACULTURE PLANT PROBIOTICS
EARTH DUST BOOST
Derived From
: ORGANIC ALFALFA MEAL, ORGANIC WHEAT MIDDLINGS, ORGANIC BAT GUANO, ORGANIC POTASSIUM SULFATE, ORGANIC STEAMED BONE MEAL, DRIED MOLASSES, DISTILLERS GRAINS, AZOMITE™ , ORGANIC HUMIC ACID, FISH MEAL, ORGANIC KELP MEAL, ORGANIC LIMESTONE, MICRACULTURE PLANT PROBIOTICS
Countains Billions of Microbes (Fungi & Bacteria) from Micraculture’s Plant Probiotics:

My little (it could've been bad but it's not, thank goodness) mistake was not checking the pH of the soil of each pot. I mean we're really hard on ourselves here if you think about it. A leaf gets a little wrinkle and we're quick to dial 911 EMERGENCY. These plants are not perfect specimens. They're gonna show signs of weakness here and there, that's how they communicate with us. Especially if they're taken out of their comfort zone. Show your grow to a layman and they're blown away..wow those look Fabulous.. Show your grow to a member here..that plant at the bottom left of your pic need more Nitrogen.. :D

Interesting, so when a cycle ends you send a sample of the soil in to see what's used up or not. You got the wheels in my head spinning again. I think what dropped my pH so low was the 4 cups of earthworm castings I poured at the top of the soil. I thought for sure one of my plants soil had a high pH i(I didn't have my soil pH tester last week, just got it) and read up that dropping organic compost , Alfalfa and or earth worm castings could drop that down a bit. It's complicated, long story short, that one plant is recovering well. Hence the importance to check your pH of your soil. It changes, it's constantly changing, no test could tell you what your soils pH is gonna be in two weeks from now, there's no way. Soils break down, how you water your plants can change the pH, and we haven't even gotten to the feeding, (for those who use synthetic nutes) So check your pH.
I applaud your willingness to try organic. I have a passion for it and believe it to be better in almost every aspect.

Here is what I would suggest might be some problems with the process you describe above. First you don't really know what the beginning mineral and nutrient values are for your soil. I'm sure that FF tests their bagged product periodically but that may or may not be what you have in your bag(s). The purpose of amending is to correct what your soil doesn't already have. I would argue you can't do that if you don't know what's there in the first place. Are you doubling up on things you already have or not adding enough of what you lack? Is your soil too hot, or not hot enough? And you won't know if the ratios are correct. What is the CEC of your soil? I mean I don't see anything on those lists that I would consider "bad" (not a fan of molasses personally) but do you need all of them?

I can point you towards some information that I found useful if you'd like and I'm sure it would do a much better job of explaining it than I would.

I want to be the best grower I can and I'm willing to put in the time and money to get there. Some may not care. If somebody wants to dry farm and just let plants grow as they do that's great too.
 

Week4@inCharge

Well-Known Member
I applaud your willingness to try organic. I have a passion for it and believe it to be better in almost every aspect.

Here is what I would suggest might be some problems with the process you describe above. First you don't really know what the beginning mineral and nutrient values are for your soil. I'm sure that FF tests their bagged product periodically but that may or may not be what you have in your bag(s). The purpose of amending is to correct what your soil doesn't already have. I would argue you can't do that if you don't know what's there in the first place. Are you doubling up on things you already have or not adding enough of what you lack? Is your soil too hot, or not hot enough? And you won't know if the ratios are correct. What is the CEC of your soil? I mean I don't see anything on those lists that I would consider "bad" (not a fan of molasses personally) but do you need all of them?

I can point you towards some information that I found useful if you'd like and I'm sure it would do a much better job of explaining it than I would.

I want to be the best grower I can and I'm willing to put in the time and money to get there. Some may not care. If somebody wants to dry farm and just let plants grow as they do that's great too.
You are correct. Fox Farm soil is like a box of chocolates, you never know what your gonna get. Probably the same for bagged soil of any manufacturer, probably. But Fox Farm is notorious for that. Thanks for the suggestions, I will follow them to the T when I get to that 4x4 raised garden bed. For a 7 gallon pot ,this seems a little daunting to me at the moment. I believe a healthy soil system delivers what the plant desires at any given time during the grow. Having a buffet of nutrients seems like a good idea as you never know when that said nutrient will be called for. And who am I to question a million dollar company that specializes in organic dry amendments for cannabis. I'd love to dive deeper into organics and would love to study more on your view points, I'd hate to lose out on some knowledge for my stubbornness. Thanks for the input.
 

Rufus T. Firefly

Well-Known Member
I use soil savvy for soil tests. Price varies, usually less than $30.
You are correct. Fox Farm soil is like a box of chocolates, you never know what your gonna get. Probably the same for bagged soil of any manufacturer, probably. But Fox Farm is notorious for that. Thanks for the suggestions, I will follow them to the T when I get to that 4x4 raised garden bed. For a 7 gallon pot ,this seems a little daunting to me at the moment. I believe a healthy soil system delivers what the plant desires at any given time during the grow. Having a buffet of nutrients seems like a good idea as you never know when that said nutrient will be called for. And who am I to question a million dollar company that specializes in organic dry amendments for cannabis. I'd love to dive deeper into organics and would love to study more on your view points, I'd hate to lose out on some knowledge for my stubbornness. Thanks for the input.
In organic the larger the pot the better. Things will be a lot easier when get to 20+, 7 could be quite tricky.

When you amend with the dry stuff you are talking about remember that it will be a couple of weeks before you see any benefit to that. There is another benefit to having your soil be "complete' all the time. So once you notice a problem it's probably already a couple weeks in the making and a couple more to fix...that's a month being out of wack. That's a a quarter to a third of the cycle.

Definitely get that Jeff Lowenfels book if you want get up the learning curve quickly.
 

Week4@inCharge

Well-Known Member
In organic the larger the pot the better. Things will be a lot easier when get to 20+, 7 could be quite tricky.

When you amend with the dry stuff you are talking about remember that it will be a couple of weeks before you see any benefit to that. There is another benefit to having your soil be "complete' all the time. So once you notice a problem it's probably already a couple weeks in the making and a couple more to fix...that's a month being out of wack. That's a a quarter to a third of the cycle.

Definitely get that Jeff Lowenfels book if you want get up the learning curve quickly.
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