320w QB vs 300w Vero COB, what do you choose?

320w QB vs 300w Vero COB, what would you choose?


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    59

skoomd

Well-Known Member
The aluminium channel I use is very thin and light. That is why I chose it over standard U channel, which gets thick and heavy at sizes over 1"
I might consider some thinner, low profile u frame for next build. The issue with the light weighing this much is it is a royal pain in the ass to adjust the height of the light. I have to squeeze between the frame and my tent to do it safely. I just have it at a height that should work from seed to harvest just so I dont have to mess with it.
 

nc208

Well-Known Member
Just use both. I'm running with Vero 29's and 10's for main lighting with q strips for supplemental. Couldn't be happier. As a side note I'm using 5000k for the supplemental, right now I have it set up as side lighting and Holy Fack is the 5000k a trich booster.
 

skoomd

Well-Known Member
Just use both. I'm running with Vero 29's and 10's for main lighting with q strips for supplemental. Couldn't be happier. As a side note I'm using 5000k for the supplemental, right now I have it set up as side lighting and Holy Fack is the 5000k a trich booster.
Hell yeah. I have heard the higher color temps are great for trichome production. People have been using MH (and if they're ballsy enough, DEMH) to finish the last 2 weeks of their HPS crops for many years now because it straight up increases quality, especially trichome production.

I mixed in some 3500k strips with my 3000k instead of all 3000k to squeeze some more trichs out of my plants. Prob wont be a huge difference compared to say 5000k, but I didnt wanna sacrifice too much yield.

Thanks for sharing though!
 

DazeHazy

Active Member
18 would be "best", but not sure how much it matters since it's pretty short wires anyway.

18AWG (or rather 0.75mm2) was easiest for me to get anyway.
Thanks. I'm almost ready to fire these babies up just need to get the wiring done. The F564Bs have 4 built in connections, could you tell me if there's any difference between wiring CON1 & CON3 (on the right) vs CON2 & CON4 (on the left)? I assume 1&3 would be the correct ones when doing it in series like in the image..

Screenshot_2018-04-13-21-38-30.png 20180413_213910.jpg
 
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SunPlix CMH

Well-Known Member
Just another option, CMH is a kind of great grow light. Less energy, less heat, balanced full spectrum, higher quality and quantity.Comparison.png David B.jpg CMH-315KF-2.jpg
 

DazeHazy

Active Member
Same, and I used 14 gauge to my wago connectors that run 3-4 strips each.

Always good to over do things rather than under do them, especially when wire is worth nothing really
These strip connectors seem to just be push in and pull out, right? I pushed a wire in, can't spot any release clip to pull it back out and I'm afraid to just pull it in case it breaks something.. Lol.
 

skoomd

Well-Known Member
These strip connectors seem to just be push in and pull out, right? I pushed a wire in, can't spot any release clip to pull it back out and I'm afraid to just pull it in case it breaks something.. Lol.
Lol I was confused as well, so I asked on here and got an answer. You just gotta take a little paperclip or skinny screwdriver and push on the little level in the middle. DO NOT try and pry it, which is what I first did and almost broke the clip.

The quantum boards have a similar connector, here's the diagram

 

SunPlix CMH

Well-Known Member
Less energy than what? Less heat than what? Higher quality than what? Higher quantity than what? And on what do you base these statements?
Less energy: 315W can replace 600W HPS/MH
Less heat: same as LED (to get same yield)
High quality: than LED
High yield: than LED
Based on feedback from our customers.
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Pretty simple ...

Buy 4 QB 288 - 2 separate slate 2 ( 2 boards each )
Hlg 600h driver .

Full dimming control
Power up to full 600w ( pot switched open )
Flexible mounting option Plus staging
Passive cooling
No TIM requirements
80cri or 90 CRI options
50,000 + hours led life
Top bin


No bulbs
Manageable heat ( power / dim control )
Pwm dimming ready
Additional optics available
Drivers can be remote mounted
Drivers 93% and up
Better footprint and overlap options
Deep corner and fringe coverage
All boards Vf matched as a set.
Able to light up 5x5 space with no other additions
( run two separate 320 watt drivers per QB set and go Beyond 600w , with SAME BOARDS ). Plus you can independently dim control each set of two.

Far more flexible than any other system
Talk to @robincnn


Why complicate things.
 
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