How long would you wait to flip after a transplant?

jimihendrix1

Well-Known Member
I go straight away as in most cases I'm potting up

to Anticpate that stretch

I've yet to encounter any 'side effects'

good luck

Agreed.

Unless you've damaged the plant in some way ect, I found 0 bad happenings going straight into flower the same day as uppot/repot.

Ill take clones from a mother 1 week before I plan on flip. Rooting takes 7-10 days. Veg for 60 more. Start in 32oz cups/Promix BX, when roots fill the cup, uppot to 5g/Promix BX.
I veg in 5g plastic pots, under 1000w, while my other plants are flowering,.

By the time its time for flip, the 5g container plants are rootbound, and ready for uppot.

I'll slightly rough up the roots, to let them expand, and speed up the lateral root growth process, and plant them. IF you don't rough up the roots, it will limit the expansion of the central ball. All of my plants in 20 gallon container are rootbound at the end of the cycle.

So from being rooted at the start of flowering cycle, my closes after 70 days, and in 5 g pots, are ready to be upotted into a 20g container, and flipped.

I found that a GOOD PLANT will completely fill the rest of the 20g container by the time the plant is finished. So in my experience, Ive found no drawbacks.
 

vostok

Well-Known Member
Agreed.

Unless you've damaged the plant in some way ect, I found 0 bad happenings going straight into flower the same day as uppot/repot.

Ill take clones from a mother 1 week before I plan on flip. Rooting takes 7-10 days. Veg for 60 more. Start in 32oz cups/Promix BX, when roots fill the cup, uppot to 5g/Promix BX.
I veg in 5g plastic pots, under 1000w, while my other plants are flowering,.

By the time its time for flip, the 5g container plants are rootbound, and ready for uppot.

I'll slightly rough up the roots, to let them expand, and speed up the lateral root growth process, and plant them. IF you don't rough up the roots, it will limit the expansion of the central ball. All of my plants in 20 gallon container are rootbound at the end of the cycle.

So from being rooted at the start of flowering cycle, my closes after 70 days, and in 5 g pots, are ready to be upotted into a 20g container, and flipped.

I found that a GOOD PLANT will completely fill the rest of the 20g container by the time the plant is finished. So in my experience, Ive found no drawbacks.
lol...many times I go direct to the 10-14 day stretch

that is equal to the 10-14 days it takes the roots to emerge from the cloner

it keeps the veg room full ...always ...cheers/
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
What I do is once transplanted to final pot (you cant go by a set time. Everyone has completely different strains..setups..mediums..conditions..lighting..etc. Impossible to give a one size fits all - and it wont work). Much like picking and chopping at harvest...your looking for signs.But what I do is wait until the plants metabolism is firing on all cylinders. What I mean by that is you look for certain indicators. Roots popping out the sides and bottoms of a cloth pot...or in the case of plastic pots..roots growing out the drain holes. Give the main stem a little tug to see if the medium kinda pulls up a little (not ready) or its anchored real well. And ultimately the plant is drying down the medium after a good soak to runoff the next day or maybe a day after. This is telling you that its starting to establish a prolific root system and your getting close to having the plant established for the flowering photoperiod. You might have to tie down and/or top to keep her low and bushy because a jamming root system is in direct proportion and relative to its top growth. And you dont want an overly vegged tall plant that can double or triple in height the first few weeks of 12 - 12 and getting too close to the lamps. You have to know the strain your running and anticipate when its final stretch settles right in the lamps sweet spot and stay there and start packing on the flower set. But ultimately its not a time thing. Its when the plant has finally packed the pot with an extensive healthy root system and its drying down the medium daily or every other day. Then you can be safe in knowing that shes ready. At least this is what I do. It can be days or weeks after final pot up transplant when this happens. A not so healthy plant can take awhile to get her prepped for flip. A super healthy plant to new pot usually takes right to the final pot and it doesnt take long at all. If you flip too soon..she wont have the root structure to handle all the intense light you have in flower and you will know you fucked up and rushed it. She will let you know..expressing herself in sickly ways. What your after is a super healthy plant with a well established root ball. Packed in the pot really well. And thirsty every morning in veg. Then shes ready for the second show.
 
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since1991

Well-Known Member
until the container is filled out with roots......
Exactly. And how you tell that (obviously you cant see it) is the plant is drying out the medium daily or every other day. The pot lift method and sticking finger in there is your "eyes" and your technique here.
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
Its also a good reason why I think a grower should use a smaller pot than what used to be generally accepted. Especially using coco coir as your substrate. Most home hobby growers just dont need a big 5 7 or 10 gallon pot to get a whopper per plant yield. Especailly cloth or fabric root pruning pots like Smart Pots or Aurora Root Pots. They dont circle at the bottom like plastic or grow bags. The roots mass up in the goldilocks zone of a smartie. Plus big pots take forever to dry down and roots never completely fill out in a big pot. Much like rockwool..coco coir is similar. You can grow a giant plant in very little rockwool. As long as you supply the fertigation in a consistent manner (top drip to waste). The ole wives tale of root bound plants is largely a myth...especially indoors using the new mediums and cloth pots. What does make plants shoot straight up and bolt is packing them too close together in relation to the light they have. Just like top growth there is a relation to root growth/medium/container/plant numbers and the amount of light. They sense that they are packed too close and fight for the limited light factor. Reducing your yield to shit and airy popcorn.
 
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jondamon

Well-Known Member
I have transplanted and flipped on the same day many times.
It works really well because the flip/transition period initiates more roots.

This is my way.

If transplanting is done correctly by back filling around a pot then the transplant is a stress free time.

As you lift the plant out of its current pot and place it straight into the perfectly made hole in your new pot and medium.

I flip the same day I transplant into a pot that’s 3x the size of the old pot.

This way I find my plants stay more compact and don’t grow much higher during their transition to 12:12.
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
Every time I tried to transplant at anytime during flower my yields took a big hit. Much better (for me anyways) to transplant to final pot whilst still in veg and only throwing in the flower room or flipping when shes had at least a good 2 weeks to settle in and establish her self. Fresh new and bigger pair of shoes to get going again. One less thing shes got to worry about...filling up the new pot with roots while still trying to produce flower..which is stressful enough on its own with no males or pollen around.
 

zeddd

Well-Known Member
I’ve just cut the rootball of my mother gg4 from 18 l coco to 2 l net pot into homemade drripper/dwc, she hated it for 6 hours, 48 hours later she’s greening the lowers and the fans are nearly horizontal. This imo is a severe repot, I will give her 2 weeks probably but will check the roots in the res
 
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