5x5 LED - T-Time grow time

T-Time

Well-Known Member
New page opening ^^ :bigjoint:

Just collected new toys :D
Motorised air damper, thermostat to controll it and humidifier that will be floating in cooling res. Still waiting for hygrostat to control it.
20180207_200910.jpg
 

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
Has anyone else notice that the "Purple Stem" issue is less prevalent in grows that are running lower EC values?
I have been really testing nutrient strengths as of late and have noticed that most "deficiencies" seem to magically go away just by reducing nutrient strength.
Could be a coincidence - Thoughts?
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
No, I switched to normal 18/6 schedule a while back.

I'm using H3ad's formula which is modified for coco Lucas formula. 6mil/gal of GHE Micro and 9mil/gal of GHE Bloom. Works out to 8mil/5L of micro and 12mil/5L of Bloom.
I was adding before about 2.5mil/5L of Cal-Mag , but since I run out, I wont be using that anymore as apparently this 6/9 ratio works good for coco w/o the cal-mag (I'll be keeping an eye on that). No foliar feed. About 10mil of pond zyme per 80L tank.
I had a look at the GH website and the N-P-K-Ca-Mg ratio you are feeding is:

N--P--K--Ca--Mg
10 15 14 10 4.5

First thing is way too much phosphorous for vegging plants. The second thing is equal amounts of nitrogen to calcium. On top of this, you were adding extra Cal-Mag at one point.

A typical N-P-K-Ca-Mg ratio for dedicated coco nutrients is 6-2-4-3-1.5 - or thereabouts (twice as much nitrogen as calcium, twice as much calcium as magnesium, a third as much phosphorous as nitrogen, and two thirds as much potassium as nitrogen).

The ratios don't have to be exact, but they should be in the ball park. And while it's true that run-to-waste is much more forgiving than a recirculating system, too much phosphorous can accumulate and burn your plants.

Also, the pond zyme bacteria will be using up some of the available nitrogen when they reproduce.

So what I suspect is happening with your plants is they are yellowing from nitrogen deficiency and a small amount of micronutrient lockout due to phosphorous toxicity that is burning the leaf tips and margins - which would explain why they appear deficient but are burning at the same time.

The simple fix would be to wind down the Bloom-Micro (say, 6ml-4ml), add a nitrogen source, and add silica as a buffer/cell-wall enhancer.

An even simpler fix would be to find a decent dedicated coco nutrient and use that.

I also use a flowering nutrient during veg, but my flowering nutes are a more traditional 3-0.6-4 (with 1.5 Ca and 0.6 Mg) - so way less P. I also add a very small small amount of Cal-Mag during veg which has equal amounts of N (4-0-0-4-2, N-P-K-Ca-Mg). I also use silica. I only started adding the Cal-Mag lately as I discovered LED-grown pot seems to have a higher demand for it.

You may find that your current formula performs better during full flower, but plants need lots of nitrogen during veg and the first 2-3 weeks of bloom.

Also, if you have access to GHE nutrients, is there any reason you are not using the cocotek formula? I don't know if it's any good - I've never used it - but you could probably avoid a lot of hassles by using a dedicated coco formula instead of trying to create your own ratios.
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
Has anyone else notice that the "Purple Stem" issue is less prevalent in grows that are running lower EC values?
I have been really testing nutrient strengths as of late and have noticed that most "deficiencies" seem to magically go away just by reducing nutrient strength.
Could be a coincidence - Thoughts?
If your nutrient is too high in phosphorous, and it starts to accumulate in your media or reservoir, then reducing it will prevent the lockout of other micronutrients such as calcium and magnesium - which, coincidentally, can cause red stems.
 

T-Time

Well-Known Member
I had a look at the GH website and the N-P-K-Ca-Mg ratio you are feeding is:

N--P--K--Ca--Mg
10 15 14 10 4.5

First thing is way too much phosphorous for vegging plants. The second thing is equal amounts of nitrogen to calcium. On top of this, you were adding extra Cal-Mag at one point.

A typical N-P-K-Ca-Mg ratio for dedicated coco nutrients is 6-2-4-3-1.5 - or thereabouts (twice as much nitrogen as calcium, twice as much calcium as magnesium, a third as much phosphorous as nitrogen, and two thirds as much potassium as nitrogen).

The ratios don't have to be exact, but they should be in the ball park. And while it's true that run-to-waste is much more forgiving than a recirculating system, too much phosphorous can accumulate and burn your plants.

Also, the pond zyme bacteria will be using up some of the available nitrogen when they reproduce.

So what I suspect is happening with your plants is they are yellowing from nitrogen deficiency and a small amount of micronutrient lockout due to phosphorous toxicity that is burning the leaf tips and margins - which would explain why they appear deficient but are burning at the same time.

The simple fix would be to wind down the Bloom-Micro (say, 6ml-4ml), add a nitrogen source, and add silica as a buffer/cell-wall enhancer.

An even simpler fix would be to find a decent dedicated coco nutrient and use that.

I also use a flowering nutrient during veg, but my flowering nutes are a more traditional 3-0.6-4 (with 1.5 Ca and 0.6 Mg) - so way less P. I also add a very small small amount of Cal-Mag during veg which has equal amounts of N (4-0-0-4-2, N-P-K-Ca-Mg). I also use silica. I only started adding the Cal-Mag lately as I discovered LED-grown pot seems to have a higher demand for it.

You may find that your current formula performs better during full flower, but plants need lots of nitrogen during veg and the first 2-3 weeks of bloom.

Also, if you have access to GHE nutrients, is there any reason you are not using the cocotek formula? I don't know if it's any good - I've never used it - but you could probably avoid a lot of hassles by using a dedicated coco formula instead of trying to create your own ratios.
Don't know much about the nutes really.
I just used Lucas formula and it worked out pretty good for my previous grow. Green plants nearly all the way till the end. Since I switched to coco that ratio clearly didin't work so I found modified formula for coco (H3ad's formula) and peeps were saying good things about it. I didn't check or calculate whats in it as it's a bit over my head.

I might look for some other nutrient, but I'm done with 10 bottles of overpriced water. So it has to be simple to mix and effective. Possibly dry fert.
Any recomendatios are welcome.


@lukio - temps of coco in the morning 17-18*C
 

lukio

Well-Known Member
@lukio - temps of coco in the morning 17-18*C[/QUOTE]
imo, too cold brother! try and keep it at 20 (:

i doubt the GLR from a few weeks ago is making them flower dude. its a strange one! no light leaks or lights on powerleads/sockets inside the tent?

and deffo check out vaders channel

https://www.youtube.com/user/VaderOG
 
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Dave455

Well-Known Member
Don't know much about the nutes really.
I just used Lucas formula and it worked out pretty good for my previous grow. Green plants nearly all the way till the end. Since I switched to coco that ratio clearly didin't work so I found modified formula for coco (H3ad's formula) and peeps were saying good things about it. I didn't check or calculate whats in it as it's a bit over my head.

I might look for some other nutrient, but I'm done with 10 bottles of overpriced water. So it has to be simple to mix and effective. Possibly dry fert.
Any recomendatios are welcome.


@lukio - temps of coco in the morning 17-18*C
megacrop ?
 

T-Time

Well-Known Member
@lukio - temps of coco in the morning 17-18*C
too cold brother! try and keep it at 20 (:

i doubt the GLR from a few weeks ago is making them flower dude. its a strange one! no light leaks or lights on powerleads/sockets inside the tent?

and deffo check out vaders channel

https://www.youtube.com/user/VaderOG
No light leaks, or any other light sources inside. Still no sign of flowering on Chronic. Ah well, i guess I'll get it all and perfect next run :lol:

Two Chronic plants on the left and one N. Light on the right
20180208_123109.jpg
+ more N.Lights for comparison.
20180208_123119.jpg
 
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T-Time

Well-Known Member
You can speak to the guys from Inkbird over at plantedtank.net. They are one of the sponsors there and have an account.
A lil bit late to the party bud. I got different controllers of amazon. Thanks anyway for any help :joint:
 

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
Don't know much about the nutes really.
I just used Lucas formula and it worked out pretty good for my previous grow. Green plants nearly all the way till the end. Since I switched to coco that ratio clearly didin't work so I found modified formula for coco (H3ad's formula) and peeps were saying good things about it. I didn't check or calculate whats in it as it's a bit over my head.

I might look for some other nutrient, but I'm done with 10 bottles of overpriced water. So it has to be simple to mix and effective. Possibly dry fert.
Any recomendatios are welcome.
I thought you are on Flora Nova?
Just the Grow and Bloom should grow you a fine crop.
I'd probably add silica and that is it
Ive use it quite a bit - never above 7.5ml per gal
From what I have experienced and seen from others it's best to keep some Grow in the mix the first half of flower. Slowly blend the Grow and Bloom together becoming more Bloom heavy as the weeks go on.
I have also run straight bloom with success but if you run into problems with early yellowing, the Grow would solve that.

Another simple solution is Ionic. They are recommending the "soil" formula on coco as it already has humics in it, but I have run the standard "hydro" version on coco too with good results. Just throw in a touch of Epsom.

Watch out for trendy name shit. From what I can tell MegaCrop is short in the Calcium and magnesium department
 

lukio

Well-Known Member
Mega crop is legit! there are lots of great grows with it here on RIU.
ive dropped the whole canna coco range, canna boost and all - that shits expensive! i do add epsom salts though, RO water and led will do that. Ive gone well past the recommended cal/mag ratios that @zypheruk touched on, it doesnt seem to matter - seen greengenes talk about this too.
@HydroRed doesnt add mag under hps and his girls are mega fine! its fan - bloody - tastic in my opinion.
Just add the one part, stir and walk away. i change my rez's every ten days ish and it sits around 6 PH, no sweat. it works out so incredibly cheap and easy (:
 
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T-Time

Well-Known Member
I thought you are on Flora Nova?
Just the Grow and Bloom should grow you a fine crop.
I'd probably add silica and that is it
Ive use it quite a bit - never above 7.5ml per gal
From what I have experienced and seen from others it's best to keep some Grow in the mix the first half of flower. Slowly blend the Grow and Bloom together becoming more Bloom heavy as the weeks go on.
I have also run straight bloom with success but if you run into problems with early yellowing, the Grow would solve that.

Another simple solution is Ionic. They are recommending the "soil" formula on coco as it already has humics in it, but I have run the standard "hydro" version on coco too with good results. Just throw in a touch of Epsom.

Watch out for trendy name shit. From what I can tell MegaCrop is short in the Calcium and magnesium department
I started this run with Flora Nova but since I got some dificiency problems with it I changed to two part Flora Nova (micro+bloom).

Just purchased 1kg of Mega Crop and have an Epsom salt ready just in case. I'm not botherd spending whole month reading about it. Just went through couple of threads here on RIU and ppl are happy. Will give it a whirl, its not expensive to try.

You don't even add any ph up/down Lukio ?
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Hey T-Time!
Are the "Wlan problems" with only one Sonoff disappeared? I planned to use two for my new lamp(1x dual for main und UV lights + a single for a IR flower trigger), but if I see that you have problems with it, maybe I should re-think it again. Do you mean a single Sonoff is okay?

BTW,
nice lookin tent! Plants look better this time!
The "fast girl" is maybe a "fast version" or an "automatic" has made it into the wrong badge.
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
I thought you are on Flora Nova?
Just the Grow and Bloom should grow you a fine crop.
I'd probably add silica and that is it
Ive use it quite a bit - never above 7.5ml per gal
From what I have experienced and seen from others it's best to keep some Grow in the mix the first half of flower. Slowly blend the Grow and Bloom together becoming more Bloom heavy as the weeks go on.
I have also run straight bloom with success but if you run into problems with early yellowing, the Grow would solve that.

Another simple solution is Ionic. They are recommending the "soil" formula on coco as it already has humics in it, but I have run the standard "hydro" version on coco too with good results. Just throw in a touch of Epsom.

Watch out for trendy name shit. From what I can tell MegaCrop is short in the Calcium and magnesium department
Neither Grow nor Bloom have any Calcium or micros in them from what I'm reading:

Bloom - http://americanag.com/assets/images/ProductImages/GH-FloraBloomLabel2-pop.jpg
Grow - http://americanag.com/assets/images/ProductImages/GH-FloraGroLabel2-pop.jpg
Micro - http://americanag.com/assets/images/ProductImages/GH-FloraMicroLabel2-pop.jpg

Mega Crop looks better on paper as an alround nutrient, IMO. It has plenty of Calcium and Magnesium: https://greenleafnutrients.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/MClowres.png

I like Canna and frankly, while it may be expensive compared to some other nutrients, it's cheap when you consider what you get in return (healthy plants, good yields).

You can formulate your own nutrient regime if you like - which is great if you know what you're doing and know exactly what nutrients and ratios you are adding - or you can let someone else do the work for you and go with a dedicated coco nutrient from a trusted brand.

Of course, there are always variables like different strain requirements, hard/soft water, temperature/environmental conditions and growth stage (veg, transition, bloom), so it helps to know what your plants need and when.
 

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
Neither Grow nor Bloom have any Calcium or micros in them from what I'm reading:

Bloom - http://americanag.com/assets/images/ProductImages/GH-FloraBloomLabel2-pop.jpg
Grow - http://americanag.com/assets/images/ProductImages/GH-FloraGroLabel2-pop.jpg
Micro - http://americanag.com/assets/images/ProductImages/GH-FloraMicroLabel2-pop.jpg

Mega Crop looks better on paper as an alround nutrient, IMO. It has plenty of Calcium and Magnesium: https://greenleafnutrients.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/MClowres.png

I like Canna and frankly, while it may be expensive compared to some other nutrients, it's cheap when you consider what you get in return (healthy plants, good yields).

You can formulate your own nutrient regime if you like - which is great if you know what you're doing and know exactly what nutrients and ratios you are adding - or you can let someone else do the work for you and go with a dedicated coco nutrient from a trusted brand.

Of course, there are always variables like different strain requirements, hard/soft water, temperature/environmental conditions and growth stage (veg, transition, bloom), so it helps to know what your plants need and when.
I was referring to Flora Nova, not the Flora Series 3 Part ;)
 
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