Lm561c Strips & SunPlus 35 design/manufacture help

3GT

Well-Known Member
Hello Ladies and gentleman

I'm looking into the best way to build a light with samsung strips with supplemental rows of sunplus 35 purple, green, red and blue.

I'm planning on using 24x 4ft C strips spaced 30mm apart creating a 4ft square. Now each 30mm gap I want to fill with purple mostly (as a noob looking at spectral charts) along with blue, red and green if that's what's good!

So how does one go about DIYing sunplus 5630 chips onto a PCB that will fit in my 30mm spacing? Which colours? Should each strip be just one colour so I can make some type of spectrum adjustments?

Also I'm wanting this whole board to be water cooled, so what type of PCB will give me the best heat transfer from 5630>PCB>aluminium cooling block? Will the Samsung strips transfer enough heat into the cooling block as well? Or does the PCB not transfer much towards the backside?

Thanks a million legends!
 
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3GT

Well-Known Member
sounds like youd be well served by just buying quantum boards
m
sounds like youd be well served by just buying quantum boards
Well as you know price is a thing to consider. I've looked at them but I'm after more for cheaper.. Which I'm sure you will agree 25x 4ft strips for ~$400 is quite the deal.

Plus I'm trying to water cool, quantum boards have no water cooled heatsinks?
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
m

Well as you know price is a thing to consider. I've looked at them but I'm after more for cheaper.. Which I'm sure you will agree 25x 4ft strips for ~$400 is quite the deal.

Plus I'm trying to water cool, quantum boards have no water cooled heatsinks?
check out chilledled water cooled same chip set with reds blues uv etc
 

3GT

Well-Known Member
check out chilledled water cooled same chip set with reds blues uv etc
I have seen chilledled's boards and that's exactly what I want to create DIY? although his water cooling isn't what I want.. I plan on having a slim ally tank all of this mounts to. If he had water galleries running through his heatsink I would consider them.

Price and maximum efficiency are my top priority. Don't care how much work is required to build it. Which is why I want to know if I can manually attach those 5630 chips onto something or if contacting a manufacturer to build/attach them is needed.

Cheers
 

OLD MOTHER SATIVA

Well-Known Member
quote
sounds like you'd be well served by just buying quantum boards


Well as you know price is a thing to consider. I've looked at them but I'm after more for cheaper.. Which I'm sure you will agree 25x 4ft strips for ~$400 is quite the deal.



>>>isn't this what qb started out doing?
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
I have seen chilledled's boards and that's exactly what I want to create DIY? although his water cooling isn't what I want.. I plan on having a slim ally tank all of this mounts to. If he had water galleries running through his heatsink I would consider them.

Price and maximum efficiency are my top priority. Don't care how much work is required to build it. Which is why I want to know if I can manually attach those 5630 chips onto something or if contacting a manufacturer to build/attach them is needed.

Cheers
ChiledLed is only charging $90 for 90w a dollar a watt, that is pretty cheap. I like his four channel approach so you an either control all four channels as one or separate f you have a controller. I wqas looking at the same for some samsung chips, just not ready yet, I guess. good luck with your project.
 

indianajones

Well-Known Member
ChiledLed is only charging $90 for 90w a dollar a watt, that is pretty cheap. I like his four channel approach so you an either control all four channels as one or separate f you have a controller. I wqas looking at the same for some samsung chips, just not ready yet, I guess. good luck with your project.
i paid $650 (that includes shipping) for 1200w worth of photon
fantom's sunboard 240. drivers cost me an additional $275 with
priority shipping. $925 for 1100w worth of LM561C isn't bad at all.
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
i really think you guys are doing a disservice by quoting any of these in '$/watt' without an associated efficacy spec.

i can get you into cobs at under ten cents a watt but 120 lm/W is working in the wrong direction, imo.

i dont think anybody other than robin and stephen at HLG have actually measured the efficacy of their DIY boards. it isnt as simple as a cob where you can (somewhat) rely on datasheet as in the case of an assembly like this, there are a lot of factors like physical and electrical layout, thermal performance, etc that impact performance

and technically the QBs come in at under $0.50/W when maxed out

lets try to keep it apples to apples
 
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Well as you know price is a thing to consider. I've looked at them but I'm after more for cheaper.. Which I'm sure you will agree 25x 4ft strips for ~$400 is quite the deal.
Very interesting project. Where are you getting the LM561C strips?

Perhaps another possibility for strips is the Samsung F-Series Gen3 (datasheet attached). Similar to the H-Series, these come in 1120mm and 560mm. The 2 interesting differences between the F- and H-Series is the higher power for which these are designed and the version with the double row of diodes. The only part currently listed on Digikey in 4ft, double-diode is the 3000k version. "Typical" power is 46V @ 2.24A = 103W with 17,340 lm output and 168 lm/w. Cost is $56.86 for 1, but at a quantity of 10, the price is $48.41/strip ($.47/W). The issue with these may be timing. Per a phone call to Digikey, these will be available mid-May.

I'm a noob, this is my first post, and this site won't let me post links. Go to the Digikey website and search for part number 1510-2229-ND. You can get to all the other parts in this series by clicking the Online Catalog link on that page.
 

Attachments

indianajones

Well-Known Member
i really think you guys are doing a disservice by quoting any of these in '$/watt' without an associated efficacy spec.

i can get you into cobs at under ten cents a watt but 120 lm/W is working in the wrong direction, imo.

i dont think anybody other than robin and stephen at HLG have actually measured the efficacy of their DIY boards. it isnt as simple as a cob where you can (somewhat) rely on datasheet as in the case of an assembly like this, there are a lot of factors like physical and electrical layout, thermal performance, etc that impact performance

and technically the QBNs come in at under $0.50/W when maxed out

lets try to keep it apples to apples
why would you even buy obsolete equipment? if we've listed the chips,
and the generation, it's ultimately up to the OP or buyer to check stats
if there are multiple product models out. i'm not making money on it like
you are, so i'll leave "doing it like it's my job" up to you. those who are
foolish and buy something without doing 2x the research they feel is
necessary may buy the wrong product, but fools and their money....

"i dont think anybody other than robin and stephen at HLG have actually measured the efficacy of their DIY boards."


FWIW, the photon fantom boards have fewer chips per square inch. i
personally believe that has a chance to lead to better thermal dissipation.
stretch the same heat out over a larger dissipation area and the area will
have less thermal gain.

quantum board dimensions for 304 chips
Dimensions 6.833" x 11.25"

photon phantom board dimensions for 240 chips
8.9" wide x 13.94" long

since when are you the LED nazi? i think it's pretty cool to be able to compare
multiple fixtures that use the same chips. competition drives quality and innovation.
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
why would you even buy obsolete equipment?
obviously oftentimes its a better value

<snip spectrometer photo>

cool but thats not really an efficacy measurement

quantum board dimensions for 304 chips
Dimensions 6.833" x 11.25"

photon phantom board dimensions for 240 chips
8.9" wide x 13.94" long
yes physical dimensions favor photon, but 30% more chips on the quantum so its not so obvious. in general current is a bigger contributor to efficacy than temperature

since when are you the LED nazi? i think it's pretty cool to be able to compare
multiple fixtures that use the same chips. competition drives quality and innovation.
i love competition, just trying to keep it level. $/watt is irrelevant in absence of an efficacy spec. if anything if you are comparing chips of same bin look at $ per diode, which is $0.21 for fantoms and $0.23 for HLG, not a huge difference TBH
 
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ThaiBaby1

Well-Known Member
Very interesting project. Where are you getting the LM561C strips?

Perhaps another possibility for strips is the Samsung F-Series Gen3 (datasheet attached). Similar to the H-Series, these come in 1120mm and 560mm. The 2 interesting differences between the F- and H-Series is the higher power for which these are designed and the version with the double row of diodes. The only part currently listed on Digikey in 4ft, double-diode is the 3000k version. "Typical" power is 46V @ 2.24A = 103W with 17,340 lm output and 168 lm/w. Cost is $56.86 for 1, but at a quantity of 10, the price is $48.41/strip ($.47/W). The issue with these may be timing. Per a phone call to Digikey, these will be available mid-May.

I'm a noob, this is my first post, and this site won't let me post links. Go to the Digikey website and search for part number 1510-2229-ND. You can get to all the other parts in this series by clicking the Online Catalog link on that page.
the H and M series cost one half to one third that price
 

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
obviously oftentimes its a better value

<snip spectrometer photo>

cool but thats not really an efficacy measurement



yes physical dimensions favor photon, but 30% more chips on the quantum so its not so obvious. in general current is a bigger contributor to efficacy than temperature



i love competition, just trying to keep it level. $/watt is irrelevant in absence of an efficacy spec. if anything if you are comparing chips of same bin look at $ per diode, which is $0.21 for fantoms and $0.23 for HLG, not a huge difference TBH
not to mention the new qb's are into a newer,better bin so there should be a decent bump up already
 

3GT

Well-Known Member
Very interesting project. Where are you getting the LM561C strips?

Perhaps another possibility for strips is the Samsung F-Series Gen3 (datasheet attached). Similar to the H-Series, these come in 1120mm and 560mm. The 2 interesting differences between the F- and H-Series is the higher power for which these are designed and the version with the double row of diodes. The only part currently listed on Digikey in 4ft, double-diode is the 3000k version. "Typical" power is 46V @ 2.24A = 103W with 17,340 lm output and 168 lm/w. Cost is $56.86 for 1, but at a quantity of 10, the price is $48.41/strip ($.47/W). The issue with these may be timing. Per a phone call to Digikey, these will be available mid-May.

I'm a noob, this is my first post, and this site won't let me post links. Go to the Digikey website and search for part number 1510-2229-ND. You can get to all the other parts in this series by clicking the Online Catalog link on that page.
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/si-b8u341b20ww/samsung-electronics?utm_source=FindChips&utm_medium=invListing&utm_campaign=FC2015

That's in 3500k
 
the H and M series cost one half to one third that price
Cost per strip is less for the M and H series, but look at cost per lumen:

-----------------------------------M-Series---H-Series--F-Series
Lumens @ max power-----3510----------4260-----19075
Cost/strip per Digikey--------9.93----------19.15----48.41
Lumens/$------------------------353-----------222-------394
Lumens/W @ max power----127-----------161------151

These are all using the 3000k version in each series. Lumens @ max power is from the datasheet for each series. Cost is price/strip in the pricing bracket for the quantity that could be purchased with about a $500 spend (slight stretch since OP was budgeting $400 for strips) on Digikey. Lumens/W is also from the datasheets at maximum power.

If you use the lumen output at "typical" power for each series, the lumens/$ is even more in favor of the F-Series because it is designed to run at close to maximum right out of the box.

Having said all that, I do think that the M, H or Bridgelux EB Series may all be optimal choices in a different situation given the users unique needs.
 
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VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
i really think you guys are doing a disservice by quoting any of these in '$/watt' without an associated efficacy spec.

i can get you into cobs at under ten cents a watt but 120 lm/W is working in the wrong direction, imo.

i dont think anybody other than robin and stephen at HLG have actually measured the efficacy of their DIY boards. it isnt as simple as a cob where you can (somewhat) rely on datasheet as in the case of an assembly like this, there are a lot of factors like physical and electrical layout, thermal performance, etc that impact performance

and technically the QBs come in at under $0.50/W when maxed out

lets try to keep it apples to apples
Chilledled posted reports for cxb and other cobs along with the samsung. I mentioned cost/ watt because the thread poster noted cost as an issue, apples to apples I thought. If I can buy a light cheaper than I can build it I would buy the light instead of build the light unless I had extra money and time on my hands.. Just noting if you are going to build a light that two guys have built. great for examples.
 
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