DIY Passive cooling with PIN Heatsinks SST120 and SST140
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
CoB_nUt
Well-Known Member
@Airwalker16, the small screws with the flat rim around the head, I used to attach the cob to the heatsink, the longer ones without the rim, I used to attach the reflector adapter. the black screws , I'm assuming are to mount the heatsinks. The eyehooks for hanging the rope ratchet hangers to. lol I haven't figuered out what the small nuts,bolts and washer are for yet. Thank for your help Airwalker. Finally got two cobs mounted to heatsinks. I was overthinking the ideal holder. Thinking it would literally "lock" them in tight. Eh, not so much.
sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
yes this ^^^^ @Airwalker16 the nuts bolts and washers are for the eye bolt which IS for hanging the heatsink.
CoB_nUt
Well-Known Member
@sixstring2112 , right. Hadn't finished mine yet. Finally got her finshed.Yup they hold the eyehooks.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
I'm digging mine!
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
And @robincnn I am on my way! Prettt mich done honestly. All but wiring up the cobs, but i wanna have them on the frame first. Making good use of that Junction box which I must say is pretty bad ass. I put the potentiometer right onto it. Just gotta pull out the hack saw and build this damned frame.
alesh
Well-Known Member
From a certain point I'm using only A2 or A4 stainless screws (credits go to @stardustsailor ). Especially these inbus ones are awesome and look great (IMHO).
Growmau5
Well-Known Member
hex heads are slightly more of a pain in the ass to deal with, tracking down an allen wrench and all. but damn those SS ones are sexy as well. its the small touches that take a nice build to the next level. That and those Junction boxes that Robin makes. I hear each one is a custom hand job.
Been a long time since I had a custom hand job!
I have been moving to torx screws away from Philips heads, tired of rounding them out. All SS of course.
Those hex head screws are great where a screw doesn't need to be flush.
Growmau5
Well-Known Member
well you are in luck. Because Robin Told me each one is a Custom (by) hand job. he assembles each one by hand while watching Game of Thrones. When you receive this junction box, you will feel the love and care that has gone in to its creation.
alesh
Well-Known Member
And then the pot will backstab the terminals
nogod_
Well-Known Member
Stoked for winds of winter so I can start building lights again...
(I only build JB's while reading the books
)
(I only build JB's while reading the books
)
nogod_
Well-Known Member
As en vogue as passive is these days, are any of you using pin sinks actively or semi-actively?
My thoughts for a cheap fence post fixture.....
Pin sinks in a 4"x4" vinyl fence post with a 100mm fan in one end blowing through it.
~~》['''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''] ~~》
~~》[.....III.......III.......III.......III......] ~~》
You could probably get away with using any pin sink with a 70mm base for a 50w cxb3590/ideal holder cooled semi-actively. I've seen some on alibaba for <$5
Quick math has me at:
4x heatsink - $30 (possibly cheaper) shipped
100mm silenx fan - $9 @frys
36" x 4" x 4" vinyl fence post - $10 @home despot ($30 for a 108" piece)
I've always liked how a 140mm fan fits nicely in the end of a 6" fence post and 100mm should fit even better in the 4". Problem was always that that orientation sucks for the heatsinkusa style sinks but it's perfect for pin sinks.
Either way I think the potential for building a very lightweight/cheap to cool lamp lies in using small pin sinks with a fan blowing horizontally through the case.
My thoughts for a cheap fence post fixture.....
Pin sinks in a 4"x4" vinyl fence post with a 100mm fan in one end blowing through it.
~~》['''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''] ~~》
~~》[.....III.......III.......III.......III......] ~~》
You could probably get away with using any pin sink with a 70mm base for a 50w cxb3590/ideal holder cooled semi-actively. I've seen some on alibaba for <$5
Quick math has me at:
4x heatsink - $30 (possibly cheaper) shipped
100mm silenx fan - $9 @frys
36" x 4" x 4" vinyl fence post - $10 @home despot ($30 for a 108" piece)
I've always liked how a 140mm fan fits nicely in the end of a 6" fence post and 100mm should fit even better in the 4". Problem was always that that orientation sucks for the heatsinkusa style sinks but it's perfect for pin sinks.
Either way I think the potential for building a very lightweight/cheap to cool lamp lies in using small pin sinks with a fan blowing horizontally through the case.
Ad hoc testing with 60mm sparse staggered anodized pin fins and a tiny bit of fan cooling performs really well. The fence post idea will work.
I have on the drawing board a 60mm square pin fin for a cxb3070 or smaller les set in a 46" long 4" wide aluminum channel, with a couple of small fans blowing into the channel. Preliminary testing with a couple of different heatsinks and fan shrouds proved I only need a few watts of fans to cool the unit. I guess that's a semi-passive setup ? so far I have been able to stay within ~10 degrees of ambient.
If I can get caught up trimming and have some spare time I'll do a build & show
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
It would work better if you attached the circulation fan in the middle- and sucking, not blowing.
Blown air is compressed and thus always warmer; sucked air benefits from a temp drop due to the pressure drop.
Mounting the fan in the middle will help by allowing both ends to get coolest air- and in case of fan failure it would be an important safety feature to allow for convective cooling. Otherwise, I fear the COBs near the center of the tunnel would cook!