DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes
- Thread starter Heisenberg
- Start date
DrCannaPath
Well-Known Member
Ive been brewing my tea with Great white, molasses and EWC only ... and at times with GreatWhite and molasses only
Check out my current TriStrain grow:
https://www.rollitup.org/index.php?threads/883569/
dungeontrees
Member
Thats the one i get im on my second now but i also got 15 plants in flower an 8 seedlings that are about 4weeks old now.
Use either distilled water or spring water for the tea! U can also mix your nutes into it also.
dungeontrees
Member
This is the exact mix i use too! Started with distilled water then ended up using spring water.
Redoctober
Well-Known Member
Heisenberg, first let me say thank you for this incredible thread, and thanks for sticking with it to help us all!!!
I have 2 questions for everyone as I have run out of Bountea Bioactivator which is what I have been using as a food source when brewing the tea. The ingredients of Bountea are 56% Dried Molasses, 9% Yucca, and 6% Humic acid. I assume the Yucca is used as a surfactant, and I'm not sure what the humic acid's function in the tea is...
1) I recently bought the NPK RAW dried cane molasses which says "The smallest 2oz package of RAW Can Molasses is equivalent to 1 gallon of liquid molasses." So by that concentration factor, how much molasses powder would I need per gallon of water when brewing tea?
2) I also have the micogrow soluble, and was wondering if this goes in right at the beginning of brewing along with the ancient forest soil, or only in the last few hours as Bountea recommends with its bacterial inoculant?
I have 2 questions for everyone as I have run out of Bountea Bioactivator which is what I have been using as a food source when brewing the tea. The ingredients of Bountea are 56% Dried Molasses, 9% Yucca, and 6% Humic acid. I assume the Yucca is used as a surfactant, and I'm not sure what the humic acid's function in the tea is...
1) I recently bought the NPK RAW dried cane molasses which says "The smallest 2oz package of RAW Can Molasses is equivalent to 1 gallon of liquid molasses." So by that concentration factor, how much molasses powder would I need per gallon of water when brewing tea?
2) I also have the micogrow soluble, and was wondering if this goes in right at the beginning of brewing along with the ancient forest soil, or only in the last few hours as Bountea recommends with its bacterial inoculant?
jensen71
Well-Known Member
How much tea are u feeding for both seedlings and flowering? How much did you feed the plants when they were pre-flowering/transitioning?
dungeontrees
Member
My bad i font follow this much anymore, anyway in my soil plants i water them like normal. In my hydro plants i use the method stated in the beginning of the post.
Initially, add about 1 cup to your res for every gallon of water, and then add 1 cup total every 3 days after. If you can, pour a little over the base of the stalk to inoculate the root crown. Your water might get a little cloudy but your roots will stay white and stimulated. When you use tea and practice proper res maintenance you can feel confident your roots will be healthy. By multiplying the microbes this way your products should last a great deal longer. Once you have eradicated slime and simply want protection from future outbreaks, adjust the tea dosage to 1 cup per 10 gallons about once per week.
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Hello all,
I have a bit of a problem on my hands and I swear when I first read this whole thread, a while back ago, it was here but we all know how long this thing is. So anyone that might know, please help.
I have powdery mildew. For the first time ever and it is only affecting one strain but growing side by side with multiple others. Everything is dialed in to avoid PM but I think mk ultra might be a bitch when it comes to fungal infections. I swear I read in here that you could use the beneficial bacteria as a foliar spray. Does anyone have experience with this or know the proper formula for such and I can put it to practice? I'm in dwc, been using bennies for about a year now and love everything about this thread for evolving my grow techniques, even more. But blast this PM, I've tried sm90 and it didn't work, my next option is bennies. I've been looking for the information but have failed in my attempts. So please do help. I can go into more details but everything is dialed in, everything has been checked, rechecked and cleaned and Temps & rh are optimal for day and night. All I can think is that the dips in humidity might be my cause. Typically it's 40% give or take a few, day/night but winters are dry and I've seen it in the teens, one day when my humidifier crapped out. It's a very small scale op, perpetual, for just me and my ole lady. Luckily the mk mother doesn't have it so the problem lies somewhere in my flower tent. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Stay stoned
W.
I have a bit of a problem on my hands and I swear when I first read this whole thread, a while back ago, it was here but we all know how long this thing is. So anyone that might know, please help.
I have powdery mildew. For the first time ever and it is only affecting one strain but growing side by side with multiple others. Everything is dialed in to avoid PM but I think mk ultra might be a bitch when it comes to fungal infections. I swear I read in here that you could use the beneficial bacteria as a foliar spray. Does anyone have experience with this or know the proper formula for such and I can put it to practice? I'm in dwc, been using bennies for about a year now and love everything about this thread for evolving my grow techniques, even more. But blast this PM, I've tried sm90 and it didn't work, my next option is bennies. I've been looking for the information but have failed in my attempts. So please do help. I can go into more details but everything is dialed in, everything has been checked, rechecked and cleaned and Temps & rh are optimal for day and night. All I can think is that the dips in humidity might be my cause. Typically it's 40% give or take a few, day/night but winters are dry and I've seen it in the teens, one day when my humidifier crapped out. It's a very small scale op, perpetual, for just me and my ole lady. Luckily the mk mother doesn't have it so the problem lies somewhere in my flower tent. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Stay stoned
W.
dungeontrees
Member
Is it on the leaves, in tha roots, grow media?
It's only on the leaves, currently. I think the sm90 kept it at bay but didn't eliminate it. I know the proper way to eliminate it is to correct the environmental issue that is creating the problem but, like I said, I've checked everything and tweaked things and to no avail, the pm stays. They are only 4 weeks into flowering but I think the opportunity to spray is quickly ending
Thanks for replying
Stay stoned
W
dungeontrees
Member
If u use a spray u can let it sit on the plants for s couple days an wash it off.
dungeontrees
Member
Well fello growers its cold out so heres a small tip MAKE THE TEA an store it on a eclosed porch to keep cold an wifee aint gonna kill ya for it bein in the fridge. LMAO
HAPPY HOLIDAYS, Everybody stay lifted!
HAPPY HOLIDAYS, Everybody stay lifted!
coffeeanyone
Member
it's taken me 2 weeks to read this entire thread and my wife isn't too pleased...
having said that, it's the best most informative thread i've ever read and saved my babies. i'm using the tea on this batch but i've also purchased some kangaroots and orca and i'm going to experiment with them individually in different grows. i'm confident to do this because i know i've got the tea as backup.
with the tea i've increased my water temperature to between 22 and 23c so the beanies can do their job. the 2 questions i have re the orca and kangaroots is;
1. should i decrease the temperature back to 18c to use the above products or do they also need higher temperatures?
2. can i add enzymes with the above products or do they produce their own?
having said that, it's the best most informative thread i've ever read and saved my babies. i'm using the tea on this batch but i've also purchased some kangaroots and orca and i'm going to experiment with them individually in different grows. i'm confident to do this because i know i've got the tea as backup.
with the tea i've increased my water temperature to between 22 and 23c so the beanies can do their job. the 2 questions i have re the orca and kangaroots is;
1. should i decrease the temperature back to 18c to use the above products or do they also need higher temperatures?
2. can i add enzymes with the above products or do they produce their own?
enigmaphoenix
Member
Wanted to say THANK YOU!!!! To: Heisenberg and everyone else that has contributed to this thread. Saved my ladies from certain doom. Roots are recovering nicely, will be giving the roots a quick rinse one more time this Sunday with a fresh res to give the bennies a nice head start. They rocked the last 4 days out and did most of the work. Tea will be an integral part of all my grows from here on out.
Cheers,
Enigma
Cheers,
Enigma
gand3r
Active Member
You can run the bennies at a lower temperature in the system. I would sooner run colder temps and bennies than warmer temps with bennies. After all most of the issues with the roots are due to higher temps and lack of DO.
Any idea what to dilute the ewc tea too, if I need to at all? Will this work with the same formula that Heisenbarg stated? Or would it be more beneficial to brew something else up? Any input would be appreciated. The window has closed for me to do much now. I've sprayed with sm90 but we going to have to dunk them in a h2o2 bath before harvest but for future reference it would be great to get some input.
Thanks
Stay stoned
W.
Help clarifying and understanding of what “proper res conditions” really mean.
The Heinsenberg thread, Aug 26, 2010, page 1
Thanks TWS for your guidance to this thread.
Common root disease is almost always caused by improper res conditions, and they improve greatly when those conditions are corrected.
[therefore, proper res conditions may be defined as having enough oxygen and proper temperatures. Res water should be 70-75 F with bennies. Air pump should be at least 1wt per gallon.]
The last paragraph, “Take care of impropoer res conditions FIRST. Even the tea will not save you from disease if you do not have enough oxygen or proper temperatures. Res water should be 70-75 F with bennies. Air pump should be at least 1wt per gallon.”
For the sake of clarity, air and oxygen are 2 different gases, both gases being colorless, odorless and tasteless. Air is consist of 80% Nitrogen with a little dab of 20% oxygen. A continuous supply of Oxygen O2 is the element required for aerobic metabolism.
If you could improve and restore the most important improper condition, which 1 of these 2 improper res conditions is the most important - having enough oxygen or restoring res water temp back to the 70F -75 F range?
Which res condition is most critical low oxygen or res water tem out of the 70F -75 F range?
What is considered “proper” minimal safe DO saturation regardless of the res water temperature?
Oxygen is not air, oxygen is 100% O2 gas and air is a mixture of gases (80% Nitrogen and only 20% oxygen).
According to Henry’s Law the amount of dissolved gas (dissolved oxygen) is proportional to its partial pressure in the gas phase. The correct dose of supplemental oxygen (not air) guarantees proper res DO saturation immediately and continuously for the total plant biomass and also guarantees the right amount of O2 to satisfy the biological oxygen demand for the total mass of microorganisms. Microorganisms alone consume a considerable volume of dissolved oxygen 24/7.
The treatment of choice for low oxygen conditions is usually the administration of supplemental oxygen greater than 20%.
The administration of more air to correct low oxygen problems is surely not the best method to correct hypoxia or problems caused by low oxygen or oxygen deficiencies in res.
If the res problem is low-no oxygen, why not just give the plant more oxygen as soon as possible and correct this improper res condition within minutes.
Thoughts and opinions.
Thanks,
J
The Heinsenberg thread, Aug 26, 2010, page 1
Thanks TWS for your guidance to this thread.
Common root disease is almost always caused by improper res conditions, and they improve greatly when those conditions are corrected.
[therefore, proper res conditions may be defined as having enough oxygen and proper temperatures. Res water should be 70-75 F with bennies. Air pump should be at least 1wt per gallon.]
The last paragraph, “Take care of impropoer res conditions FIRST. Even the tea will not save you from disease if you do not have enough oxygen or proper temperatures. Res water should be 70-75 F with bennies. Air pump should be at least 1wt per gallon.”
For the sake of clarity, air and oxygen are 2 different gases, both gases being colorless, odorless and tasteless. Air is consist of 80% Nitrogen with a little dab of 20% oxygen. A continuous supply of Oxygen O2 is the element required for aerobic metabolism.
If you could improve and restore the most important improper condition, which 1 of these 2 improper res conditions is the most important - having enough oxygen or restoring res water temp back to the 70F -75 F range?
Which res condition is most critical low oxygen or res water tem out of the 70F -75 F range?
What is considered “proper” minimal safe DO saturation regardless of the res water temperature?
Oxygen is not air, oxygen is 100% O2 gas and air is a mixture of gases (80% Nitrogen and only 20% oxygen).
According to Henry’s Law the amount of dissolved gas (dissolved oxygen) is proportional to its partial pressure in the gas phase. The correct dose of supplemental oxygen (not air) guarantees proper res DO saturation immediately and continuously for the total plant biomass and also guarantees the right amount of O2 to satisfy the biological oxygen demand for the total mass of microorganisms. Microorganisms alone consume a considerable volume of dissolved oxygen 24/7.
The treatment of choice for low oxygen conditions is usually the administration of supplemental oxygen greater than 20%.
The administration of more air to correct low oxygen problems is surely not the best method to correct hypoxia or problems caused by low oxygen or oxygen deficiencies in res.
If the res problem is low-no oxygen, why not just give the plant more oxygen as soon as possible and correct this improper res condition within minutes.
Thoughts and opinions.
Thanks,
J
TWS, think about it like being in the hospital ER, you're feeling real bad, your lips are turning blue indicating your oxygen level in your blood is low. The doctors comes in looks at you and tells the nurse to get you an O2 mask right now! The nurse comes back in a minute with a big electric fan, plugs it in to the wall and turns it on and blows lot's of air in your face even blows your hat off your head. That's aeration. Then she looks you in the eye and tells you that you are getting plenty oxygen, all the oxygen you need as now your ears and tongue is turning blue and you're really feeling bad.
That's the difference between plenty of air (aeration) and not getting enough oxygen (oxygenation).
Thanks for redirecting me to the bubbles page.
J
That's the difference between plenty of air (aeration) and not getting enough oxygen (oxygenation).
Thanks for redirecting me to the bubbles page.
J
She didn't blow the right thing .
Is it not the bubbles popping on the surface and the gas exchange as opposed to the air bubbles in the water ?
Your welcome.