DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

Scotch089

Scotch089

Well-Known Member
Sorry just now read the original post I've been at work. I hadn't seen you are using 4k veros as well. If it's strictly 12 12 I'd feel better adding a little red, but greengenes has shown it is most definitely not a requirement. I think it's Kindve splitting hairs at this point... but I'm one that does it so I feel better, whether the plants are benefitting... who knows. (Like mixing 8 xml2 cws in between 8 3k cobs) <- like it'd really make a difference lol. Naw but if I were running 3500 AND 4K I think I'd add a fuzz of warmer light. If it were 3k and 4k I may say fuck it. Like eh has said all it does is average the Kelvin... so you're at like 3750k, which, ironically is what the xgs used. But again, an on/off switch would be smart for stretch.

Jacob I'd just run 3500 by itself.
 
hayrolld

hayrolld

Well-Known Member
testiclees said:
Thanks folks.

Im not determined to add stars. In fact getting one run under my belt with the under construction set up might be the best bet. I dont think there is anyone else using this combo to compare notes with. Im interested in learning what could be any potential improvement ideas since ive got the volts ....and the tools are still out.

The veos alone work great so any improvement will be amazing.
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If you are looking to improve the frostiness, you could supplement UV. They helped my hps, and they should help led too. They are expensive as LEDs, but tubes are pretty reasonable. Search reptile UV light. They only need to be run 1/4 to 1/3 of the time your lights are on during flowering.
 
testiclees

testiclees

Well-Known Member
hayrolld said:
If you are looking to improve the frostiness, you could supplement UV. They helped my hps, and they should help led too. They are expensive as LEDs, but tubes are pretty reasonable. Search reptile UV light. They only need to be run 1/4 to 1/3 of the time your lights are on during flowering.
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thanks bro,

do you find that the frostyness had much impact on potency ?
 
P

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
hayrolld said:
If you are looking to improve the frostiness, you could supplement UV. They helped my hps, and they should help led too. They are expensive as LEDs, but tubes are pretty reasonable. Search reptile UV light. They only need to be run 1/4 to 1/3 of the time your lights are on during flowering.
Click to expand...

it also helps to add some UVA. reasonable price leds are available. rapidled has some combo 20 mm stars that cover 400-420
http://www.rapidled.com/total-spectrum-violet-uv-led/.

ledengine also does a lot UVB but they are pricey.

I have been able to increase frostiness with a bit of UVA+royal blue in my flowering mix.
 
hayrolld

hayrolld

Well-Known Member
PurpleBuz said:
it also helps to add some UVA. reasonable price leds are available. rapidled has some combo 20 mm stars that cover 400-420
http://www.rapidled.com/total-spectrum-violet-uv-led/.

ledengine also does a lot UVB but they are pricey.

I have been able to increase frostiness with a bit of UVA+royal blue in my flowering mix.
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The reptile t5s add UVa and UVb. I was using them with hps though, so I did not look into the LEDs. Purplebuz, do you run your UV for the entire time? I was getting bleaching doing that so I cut mine back.
 
P

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
hayrolld said:
The reptile t5s add UVa and UVb. I was using them with hps though, so I did not look into the LEDs. Purplebuz, do you run your UV for the entire time? I was getting bleaching doing that so I cut mine back.
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I'm not running UVB yet, only UVA no bleaching with that. I am using both actinic T5s and led UVAs, as soon as time permits I will phase out the t5 actinics for leds. As you found out dosage of UVB is trickier to manage.
 
Stephenj37826

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
Sorry if this has been asked and answered but I received my hlg-185h-c700 and was wondering what do I need to dim them? Also is there a way too dim both with one control source such as s knob?
 
I

I Hate Usernames

Member
I was looking for a driver to run some supplemental red stars, vf of around 22 @ 700 ma. I bought the MW LPF-16-24 but did not see that it was constant current & constant voltage. Is this an okay driver for this application or did I screw up.
 
littlejacob

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Bonjour
Yes a 100k potentiometer and a 10k resistor too! Am I wrong!? Cause I done that! I saw that on a thread here
Have a great day★
 
Bhookus

Bhookus

Member
littlejacob said:
And for the cxa it is 3 with the hlg 185 if i well learn my lessons...lol
But it is 4 with the cxb.i know it cause I make a lot of research on it!
But ask to someone who have more experience, but I'm pretty sure, since I am going to buy 3590 x4 and a hlg 185 1400b after i found a driver for my vero10 to practice a little before the Cree, anyway it is going to be made for september (too hot to grow in my area in summer).
C U
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Why only 3 cxa or 4 Cxb?
Using @robincnn math - vf~35v x 4= 140v
Hlg-185g-c1050a 95v-190v
4cxa won't light, 3 will but no dimming, and 2 will with dimming.
What's going on?
 
Bhookus

Bhookus

Member
I've built a modified version of @REALSTYLES 8 cob on a 10"x24" heatsink.
It consists of 4x cxa3070 3k and 4x cxa3590 5k.
I have 3x MW hlg-185h-c1050a drivers. I need to order 3 more.
The drivers are running the 3070s fine and as stated in the previous post won't run the 4x 3590s. Where is the difference between the hlg 1400mA, 1050mA, and the 700mA?
I plan to veg and flower under these. I wanted to start with the 3590s dimmed and ramp up in steps using the dimmer first then adding the 3070s dimmed and finally all at full power.
@Scotch089 you had suggested I might be at overkill. Keeping with the ramping up plan should I go with the 700mA for the 3590s. Will it power the 4 cxa3590 properly with the dimming feature? @REALSTYLES did you use 76v version and have you used the 36v with the hlg-185?
 
EfficientWatt

EfficientWatt

Well-Known Member


Got a UK quote for HLG 240H C 2100b, long delay and high price tho ..
but looks like it's coming in :)

hlg 240.png

So 3 CXB 3590 3500K CD + 1 HLG 240 (225W) beats 4 CXB3070 AD + HLG 185 on just about all fronts, except spread ...

More watts / better efficiency, for +- equal prices.

HLG-240H-C1750 is nice too. Looks like it could fit very nicely 4 CXB3590 32V ~62w each.
 
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Scotch089

Scotch089

Well-Known Member
Bhookus said:
I've built a modified version of @REALSTYLES 8 cob on a 10"x24" heatsink.
It consists of 4x cxa3070 3k and 4x cxa3590 5k.
I have 3x MW hlg-185h-c1050a drivers. I need to order 3 more.
The drivers are running the 3070s fine and as stated in the previous post won't run the 4x 3590s. Where is the difference between the hlg 1400mA, 1050mA, and the 700mA?
I plan to veg and flower under these. I wanted to start with the 3590s dimmed and ramp up in steps using the dimmer first then adding the 3070s dimmed and finally all at full power.
@Scotch089 you had suggested I might be at overkill. Keeping with the ramping up plan should I go with the 700mA for the 3590s. Will it power the 4 cxa3590 properly with the dimming feature? @REALSTYLES did you use 76v version and have you used the 36v with the hlg-185?
Click to expand...
What was the space getting lit? I looked back 4 pages and didn't see us...

The difference in amps is just how hard the leds are running, less output/ efficient, or more output/less efficient (more heat per watt)

Voltage is just capacity, so find your amps you want to run at (supras awesome spreadsheets for the given bin) and then find an hlg that fits the total voltage of leds driven at whichever current. Try to fill the capacity of each driver (more efficient)

Edit: The 3070 and 3590 will put out different watts at the same current
 
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