Best NPK Ratio for Veg and Flower

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
Starting 12/12 lighting cycle starts the stretch period, not using high P foods.
I promise you that foods balanced more towards N will give you less stretch than foods balanced more towards P. I've seen this in hydro and in promix. When feeding with a 'veg formula' in the early weeks of flower, the plant seems to spend its energy growing a better structure as opposed to just elongating with bloom foods.
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
This is the recent formula I've been having a lot of success with. Keep in mind I have VERY hard water (400-500ppm), so this formula wouldn't be as good for RO.

mix17.png
mix17_results.png
 
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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
I just realized after looking at the recipe I posted, I was giving you the wrong NPK numbers!! SORRY!!!

The formula I'm using has an NPK ratio of 1 : 0.88 : 1.63

SORRY!

Edit: Now I understand! 1 : 1.12 : 1.78 was mix #16 and 1 : 0.88 : 1.63 is mix #17
 
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Hessam

Well-Known Member
There are lots of info in here that sounds a little confusing to me! So is it just fine to use a 1-1-1 from start to finish? or there is need for switching to something like 1-3-2 for bloom?
 
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giorgos

Active Member
OTE="Rotweiller, post: 6241707, member: 20 20 20 fe1"]Hello Waiakeauka. I'm not sure if this will help you or not but i found this on another website and it made sense to me -
Cannabis requires a 1:2 ratio of P to K throughout all stages of it's growth.

It's worth stating for the record the actual ratios of N, P and K that cannabis requires through it's life cycle:

Vegetative Stage
N - P - K
3 - 1 - 2

Flowering Stage
N - P - K
1 - 1 - 2

Final Flowering Stage
N - P - K
0 - 1 - 2

To translate this into a 12 week schedule for a typical Skunk type such as Cheese or Psychosis would give something along these lines:

Veg week 1: 3 - 1 - 2
Veg week 2: 3 - 1 - 2
Flo week 1 : 3 - 1 - 2
Flo week 2 : 3 - 1 - 2
Flo week 3 : 1 - 1 - 2
Flo week 4 : 1 - 1 - 2
Flo week 5 : 1 - 1 - 2
Flo week 6 : 1 - 1 - 2
Flo week 7 : 0 - 1 - 2
Flo week 8 : 0 - 1 - 2
Flo week 9 : 0 - 0 - 0
Flo week 10: 0 - 0 - 0

This schedule reduces the Nitrogen two weeks into the 12/12 period which will assist in stopping the vertical growth (stretch). It cuts out all Nitrogen after 6 weeks which will result in a less leafy, smoother burning end product with greater density to the flowers. The last two weeks of plain water is sufficient to leach out all accumulated salts and give a clean end product. Three week flush as advocated by some really isn't necessary if the Nitrogen is cut out after 6 weeks. The people using a three week flush tend to use Canna nutes which have too much N in them for late flowering and this is why they get a benefit from flushing for three weeks.

Hope that makes sense. Despite all the crap the nute companies fill our heads with about the need for all kinds of fancy bottles, you really don't need any of them. Cannabis is a simple plant, a weed in fact, and all it needs is the correct NPK at the correct time plus a full range of trace elements, that is hard fact and no amount of BS an marketing from the nute companies will ever change that fact.

Anyway :-) Hope this helps you a little bit ? Good luck and Happy Growing :-)[/QUOTE]
If
Hello Waiakeauka. I'm not sure if this will help you or not but i found this on another website and it made sense to me -
Cannabis requires a 1:2 ratio of P to K throughout all stages of it's growth.

It's worth stating for the record the actual ratios of N, P and K that cannabis requires through it's life cycle:

Vegetative Stage
N - P - K
3 - 1 - 2

Flowering Stage
N - P - K
1 - 1 - 2

Final Flowering Stage
N - P - K
0 - 1 - 2

To translate this into a 12 week schedule for a typical Skunk type such as Cheese or Psychosis would give something along these lines:

Veg week 1: 3 - 1 - 2
Veg week 2: 3 - 1 - 2
Flo week 1 : 3 - 1 - 2
Flo week 2 : 3 - 1 - 2
Flo week 3 : 1 - 1 - 2
Flo week 4 : 1 - 1 - 2
Flo week 5 : 1 - 1 - 2
Flo week 6 : 1 - 1 - 2
Flo week 7 : 0 - 1 - 2
Flo week 8 : 0 - 1 - 2
Flo week 9 : 0 - 0 - 0
Flo week 10: 0 - 0 - 0

This schedule reduces the Nitrogen two weeks into the 12/12 period which will assist in stopping the vertical growth (stretch). It cuts out all Nitrogen after 6 weeks which will result in a less leafy, smoother burning end product with greater density to the flowers. The last two weeks of plain water is sufficient to leach out all accumulated salts and give a clean end product. Three week flush as advocated by some really isn't necessary if the Nitrogen is cut out after 6 weeks. The people using a three week flush tend to use Canna nutes which have too much N in them for late flowering and this is why they get a benefit from flushing for three weeks.

Hope that makes sense. Despite all the crap the nute companies fill our heads with about the need for all kinds of fancy bottles, you really don't need any of them. Cannabis is a simple plant, a weed in fact, and all it needs is the correct NPK at the correct time plus a full range of trace elements, that is hard fact and no amount of BS an marketing from the nute companies will ever change that fact.

Anyway :-) Hope this helps you a little bit ? Good luck and Happy Growing :-)
Hello from greece if i feed th3m with a 2
 

harris hawk

Well-Known Member
No - "N" in flower - then in early flower use "P" higher than "K" in middle flower use "K" higher than "P" and later flower back to "P" higher than "K" This is a NO "N" feeding schedule if you want the amounts (P & K) let me know. Then there is a school of thought that a little "N" will not hurt. Seems that No "N" = Bigger Buds !!!!!!
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
No - "N" in flower - then in early flower use "P" higher than "K" in middle flower use "K" higher than "P" and later flower back to "P" higher than "K" This is a NO "N" feeding schedule if you want the amounts (P & K) let me know. Then there is a school of thought that a little "N" will not hurt. Seems that No "N" = Bigger Buds !!!!!!
You're not going to have any leaves on your plants with the 'no nitrogen' route and subsequently very little flower production since the leaves are what grow flowers.
 

harris hawk

Well-Known Member
You're not going to have any leaves on your plants with the 'no nitrogen' route and subsequently very little flower production since the leaves are what grow flowers.
They fall off because they have used all the P & K they can give, which is necessary for big bud development - therefore the leaves fall off because the the plant does not need them in late flower
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
They fall off because they have used all the P & K they can give, which is necessary for big bud development - therefore the leaves fall off because the the plant does not need them in late flower
Your leaves are falling off because you're not feeding the plant what it needs, you're feeding the plant what you *think* it needs. No offense but that's bad gardening.
 

Hessam

Well-Known Member
Your leaves are falling off because you're not feeding the plant what it needs, you're feeding the plant what you *think* it needs. No offense but that's bad gardening.
Do you think it's fine to use a 1-1-1 from start to finish?
 

giorgos

Active Member
Thanks guys i ll continue my 20 20 20 schedule hope so with no problems for my plants and buds greetings from greece guys
 
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firsttimeARE

Well-Known Member
Does anyone ever get dark green leaves from using 3-1-2? I've gotten it with Foliage Pro and now with Heavy 16 which is closer to 3-1-3. I get dark green leaves and red petioles.

Been using 1-1-1 these past two weeks to see if the red petioles disappear. Just GH micro/bloom 1:1 equates to a 5-5-5.
 
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