Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

Joedank

Well-Known Member
That's a lot of neem to one gallon. I use 1-2 tsp (5-10ml) per gallon of neem oil, 5ml of protekt, and 1/8th tsp of 200x aloe. I find about 80-82 degrees to be the sweet spot for keeping things emulsified without getting chunky.

Cooffeeee...... :sleep:

P-
many test in my own life with a mag glass have shown it is the only amount that actuall kills bugs by smothering . witch is needed, for me in my life raising 25-50 other varietels of veg and keeping citrus indoors ina yearround solar ghouse. its also the reccomenned rate for horticulture use one oz per gallon. 5ml per gallon is my soil drench :)
most books i read on horticultre reccomend 2% neem solution witch is 75ml per gallon highly phototoxic....mine is only a little phototoxic ..
i also spray 3/4c D.E. to one gallon water.. with a mask...https://books.google.com/books?id=eRKYAAAAQBAJ&pg=PA472&dq=how+much+neem+to+smother+pests&hl=en&sa=X&ei=IeslVafIL4PooATD4YGoAQ&ved=0CDAQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=how much neem to smother pests&f=false
 
Last edited:

Pattahabi

Well-Known Member
many test in my own life with a mag glass have shown it is the only amount that actuall kills bugs by smothering . witch is needed, for me in my life raising 25-50 other varietels of veg and keeping citrus indoors ina yearround solar ghouse. its also the reccomenned rate for horticulture use one oz per gallon. 5ml per gallon is my soil drench :)
most books i read on horticultre reccomend 2% neem solution witch is 75ml per gallon highly phototoxic....mine is only a little phototoxic ..
i also spray 3/4c D.E. to one gallon water.. with a mask...https://books.google.com/books?id=eRKYAAAAQBAJ&pg=PA472&dq=how much neem to smother pests&hl=en&sa=X&ei=IeslVafIL4PooATD4YGoAQ&ved=0CDAQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=how much neem to smother pests&f=false
With all respect, I say if it works for you, run with it. I know with my current set up, I'd have some serious adverse effects at that ratio. So maybe if someone is not use to using emulsified neem, start off with a lower dosage and work up. In my experience it's best to hit them every 3 days for 3-4 sprayings. At 1-2tsp of neem per gallon, that wipes them out of my garden. (I also spray at lights out).

I need to stop rambling, I just cleaned the bong and I think I got too excited.

bongsmilie

P-
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
I noticed something the other day when I was at another growers place. My soil is much heavier than bagged soil is, by far. When my soil is almost done dry it weighs as much as a fox farm bagged soil does a few hours after watering.
Anyone else notice this?
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
mines heavy too. Those bagged soils are mostly peat and perlite. Very little nutes and little to no compost and castings. I have 2 10 gal pots about 2 months old. They got completely dried out. They're still pretty heavy. When wet they're very heavy. Still able to pickup and carry. Still heavy.
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
mines heavy too. Those bagged soils are mostly peat and perlite. Very little nutes and little to no compost and castings. I have 2 10 gal pots about 2 months old. They got completely dried out. They're still pretty heavy. When wet they're very heavy. Still able to pickup and carry. Still heavy.
It just boggled my mind a bit because I don't remember them being that light. I went to lift up my friends 7 Gallon planter with a 3 footer in flower thinking it would be heavy like mine and I almost threw it into his light lol
 

Joedank

Well-Known Member
I noticed something the other day when I was at another growers place. My soil is much heavier than bagged soil is, by far. When my soil is almost done dry it weighs as much as a fox farm bagged soil does a few hours after watering.
Anyone else notice this?
yea casting weigh alot, local screened rock / rice hulls are so much better than perlite in the long run. they dont float away and dont leak aluminum too...
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
yea casting weigh alot, local screened rock / rice hulls are so much better than perlite in the long run. they dont float away and dont leak aluminum too...
Did some digging on perlite and found out what it actually is.

"Perlite is essentially an amorphous, hydrated glassy volcanic rock of rhyolitic composition, consisting primarily of fused sodium potassium aluminum silicate."

I couldn't find anything on the break down of perlite / leaching of aluminum. But I definitely can see how that's possible given its chemical composition.
 

Joedank

Well-Known Member
Did some digging on perlite and found out what it actually is.

"Perlite is essentially an amorphous, hydrated glassy volcanic rock of rhyolitic composition, consisting primarily of fused sodium potassium aluminum silicate."

I couldn't find anything on the break down of perlite / leaching of aluminum. But I definitely can see how that's possible given its chemical composition.
from reasearch gate:

contrary to the trend for cations, decreased as ionic strength increased. Caution is advised when new perlite used as a growth substrate is maintained below pH 5, because the Al concentration could exceed toxic levels.
pH-Dependent surface properties of perlite: Effects of plant growth - ResearchGate. Available from: http://www.researchgate.net/publication/248167139_pH-Dependent_surface_properties_of_perlite_Effects_of_plant_growth [accessed Apr 9, 2015].
 
Last edited:

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
I see cover crops mentioned a bunch in this thread, a few people even mention a slight few by name and their specific uses. I don't see a lot of mention (I could be wrong here) about what sort of plants work best as a cover crop for specific instances; like space requirements above soil, how deep their roots go in regards to planter depth, etc.

I like Dutch white clovers because of how low they typically stay and how well they take to being pruned often. But I recently got the cc combo pack from the buildasoil guys and it made me wonder if some of those plants might be best not added in certain instances.
Example: I'm limited on space so I keep my ladies short through various training methods, currently a multi strain Scrog. And I know some of those plants have a lot of vertical height and some have deeper roots than clovers by far, which could be an issue in some of my smaller 3 gallon planters.

Also, @greasemonkeymann didn't I see you mention legumes somewhere on here?
 
Last edited:

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
I see cover crops mentioned a bunch in this thread, a few people even mention a slight few by name and their specific uses. I don't see a lot of mention (I could be wrong here) about what sort of plants work best as a cover crop for specific instances; like space requirements above soil, how deep their roots go in regards to planter depth, etc.

I like Dutch white clovers because of how low they typically stay and how well they take to being pruned often. But I recently got the cc combo pack from the buildasoil guys and it made me wonder if some of those plants might be best not added in certain instances.
Example: I'm limited on space so I keep my ladies short through various training methods, currently a multi strain Scrog. And I know some of those plants have a lot of vertical height and some have deeper roots than clovers by far, which could be an issue in some of my smaller 3 gallon planters.

Also, @greasemonkeymann didn't I see you mention legumes somewhere on here?
yea, I use a mix, honestly I couldn't tell you which are which, only that they are nitrogen fixing, looks to be four different types, some look similar to the "sweet pea" flower, and flower similarly too, but the "beans" look different more like the beans people eat.Some look more viney in their growing characteristics.
But really, you can just prune them like anything, if they get too big, just chop em and either bury the remains or throw it in your compost/vermicompost.
Here is a picture of one of them. This is a legume that has gone through a harvest already, and is growing alongside it's second cannabis lady. It was almost taller than the gorilla glue#4 that I had in there first, I flowered the GG#4 from clone so it was a short little lady. Now it's next to a Purple Paralysis.
the first pic is the bigger type legume (the aforementioned one), and the second pic is of my horsetail, but if you look closely you'll see behind the aloe that there is a little viney legume there too.
-------EDIT---- I somehow missed where you said you are using three gallon pots...
That's a tiny pot my brother... I see the yields go down a lil just from going from a 15 gal to a 12.
May want to think about putting multiple plants in one container? I have done up to four at a time. No problems and you have more soil in total.
two per 15 gal if they are small/young
4 per 25 gal if they are established. You gotta train them though, I call it "corner-training"
Each is trained to a "corner" so they appear sorta leaning when you look at them, that way they fill the square footprint that most lights create.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
from reasearch gate:

contrary to the trend for cations, decreased as ionic strength increased. Caution is advised when new perlite used as a growth substrate is maintained below pH 5, because the Al concentration could exceed toxic levels.
pH-Dependent surface properties of perlite: Effects of plant growth - ResearchGate. Available from: http://www.researchgate.net/publication/248167139_pH-Dependent_surface_properties_of_perlite_Effects_of_plant_growth [accessed Apr 9, 2015].
same can be said with azomite, but I think we can rest assure that if our soils get anywhere near 5.0 Ph, there won't be any live plants to suck up the aluminum anyways..
 

Joedank

Well-Known Member
same can be said with azomite, but I think we can rest assure that if our soils get anywhere near 5.0 Ph, there won't be any live plants to suck up the aluminum anyways..
1.)azomite is not used in HUGE amounts as a stand alone substrate.
2.) perlite is damageing to our ecosystem due to the "float" factor
3;) why is it needed?
4.) "pockets" of organic soil can reach many varying ph's with "SCOBYS " forming around carbs.
5.) cannabis is a bioaccumulator the neem seed meal i add scares me enough i want all my perlite out of my garden after talking with my grandma with alzhimers.
6.) mooomoooo
7.) average ph of OR. states soil = 5.7 the well water is quite low too....http://www.ipni.net/publication/bettercrops.nsf/0/2D03B3D343C281738525797D0061C037/$FILE/Better Crops 2010-4 p6.pdf
8) With a pH around 4.0, sphagnum peat moss is a great soil amendment for acid-loving plants. source http://www.extension.iastate.edu/newsrel/2003/apr03/apr0304.html

sorry but it is a danger
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
I see cover crops mentioned a bunch in this thread, a few people even mention a slight few by name and their specific uses. I don't see a lot of mention (I could be wrong here) about what sort of plants work best as a cover crop for specific instances; like space requirements above soil, how deep their roots go in regards to planter depth, etc.

I like Dutch white clovers because of how low they typically stay and how well they take to being pruned often. But I recently got the cc combo pack from the buildasoil guys and it made me wonder if some of those plants might be best not added in certain instances.
Example: I'm limited on space so I keep my ladies short through various training methods, currently a multi strain Scrog. And I know some of those plants have a lot of vertical height and some have deeper roots than clovers by far, which could be an issue in some of my smaller 3 gallon planters.

Also, @greasemonkeymann didn't I see you mention legumes somewhere on here?
i'm also a fan of clover as a cc...........i used crimson , white is probably better for containers

004.JPG can see them in the small 2 gal root trapper II........was under a ig par 100 induction, not my best work:P
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
yea, I use a mix, honestly I couldn't tell you which are which, only that they are nitrogen fixing, looks to be four different types, some look similar to the "sweet pea" flower, and flower similarly too, but the "beans" look different more like the beans people eat.Some look more viney in their growing characteristics.
But really, you can just prune them like anything, if they get too big, just chop em and either bury the remains or throw it in your compost/vermicompost.
Here is a picture of one of them. This is a legume that has gone through a harvest already, and is growing alongside it's second cannabis lady. It was almost taller than the gorilla glue#4 that I had in there first, I flowered the GG#4 from clone so it was a short little lady. Now it's next to a Purple Paralysis.
the first pic is the bigger type legume (the aforementioned one), and the second pic is of my horsetail, but if you look closely you'll see behind the aloe that there is a little viney legume there too.
-------EDIT---- I somehow missed where you said you are using three gallon pots...
That's a tiny pot my brother... I see the yields go down a lil just from going from a 15 gal to a 12.
May want to think about putting multiple plants in one container? I have done up to four at a time. No problems and you have more soil in total.
two per 15 gal if they are small/young
4 per 25 gal if they are established. You gotta train them though, I call it "corner-training"
Each is trained to a "corner" so they appear sorta leaning when you look at them, that way they fill the square footprint that most lights create.
Oh I know, they're not by choice. I had a couple larger airplanters in the mail from Amazon but they sent the wrong size so I just returned the order and am going out tomorrow to get bigger solid plastic planters for the next round (plants are in a Scrog already). But, I'm taking a lot of cuts from the ones in 3 gallons so I don't think I'll see too terrible of a loss in yield. I'm contemplating just getting one massive 15+ container to go next to my 10 gallon hard planter as I'm in just a 2x4x5 tent, so space is limited.


I'm hoping the cc I got from buildasoil will be what I need. So far their products are top notch so I have high hopes. I also keep aloe in my containers. Have been thinking of planting a marigold or two as well from my grandfathers advice.
 
Last edited:
Top