DonPetro
Well-Known Member
You took a work of art and turned it into a masterpiece! Nice work.
Vermicomposters Unite! Official Worm Farmers Thread
- Thread starter Rising Moon
- Start date
DonTesla
Well-Known Member
might be the most beautiful canvas i ever worked with, and favourite piece since, my last birth… yamon!
SpaaaceCowboy
Well-Known Member
How long does it take before worms start producing castings ?
And how much would something like this DIY worm bin composter produce ?
I've been thinking for a while now that I want to do a worm bin.....
thanks, SC - subbed to thread
DonTesla
Well-Known Member
Well it depends not so much on size, but how many pounds of happy worms u got, cause they will eat their body weight inna day if happy. They live for 10 years straight with no sleep so if they are unstressed (no onions, acidic mix, not too dry, hot cold etc) they will also up to double their bio mass every month via mating and growing...How long does it take before worms start producing castings ?
And how much would something like this DIY worm bin composter produce ?
I've been thinking for a while now that I want to do a worm bin.....
thanks, SC - subbed to thread
So, if you had one pound of happy happy worms they'll do what a pound of healthy worms do.. if u get 3 pounds, they will be months ahead, and triple the bins output. That design (i scoped it) is good. There are even better designs that sift for you, separating castings and cocoons and worms, but if already set, then based on size id be tempted to put at least a half pound per section. They love apples, bananas, manure, watermelon rind, and alfalfa a lot, which can get ur rare growth hormones readily-available too. They start producing castings in minutes.. it can take a while to pile up.. and thats where ur sifting or separating game becomes important… i use 1/4 hard ware mesh in between layers in my farm. I thought the holes would be too big but with moisture it is perfect. Castings fall to bottom, with some lower-laid cocoons, and the odd worms. once a week i pick out the big boys from the bottom i jus keep all 3 layers moist.. top layer has four half root balls, some semi-compost from garden, half the worms, then i have 2 root balls and some almost done VC with the other half of the worms, then i have the castings on the bottom with some babies maturing.. they love banana rinds so if u leave on in the bottom layer everyone will migrate to it! the Farms smaller overall width allows me to keep it indoors, at room temp 24/7, right near the flowering tent. if i put in 10 pounds of food/compost a month, it creates 9 pounds of Co2 that month, after fermentation, digestion, etc. 90% is very high.. first it releases when it decomposes and again when its processed.. if you youtube worm farms you will see some designs that vibrate your worms thru different size screens and return the worms to pail for you, leaving you castings, worms, and cocoons separated.. happy farming them worms, bruh!
DonAlejandroVega
Well-Known Member
Pattahabi
Well-Known Member
Vermiculture Technologies - Edwards
The life cycle and population biology of E. fetida and E. andrei in different organic wastes have been investigated by several authors (Watanabe and Tsukamoto 1976; Hartenstein et al. 1979; Edwards 1988; Reinecke and Viljoen 1990; Domínguez et al. 1997; Domínguez and Edwards 1997; Domínguez et al. 2000; Monroy et al. 2006). The optimum temperature for growth of both species is 25°C(68°F), and although they can tolerate a wide range of moisture conditions, the optimum moisture content for these species is 85%. In optimum conditions the length of their life cycles (from newly-laid cocoon through clitellate adult earthworm) ranges from 45 to 51 days. The time for hatchlings to reach sexual maturity varies from 21 to 30 days. Copulation in these species, which takes place beneath the soil or waste surface, has been men- tioned by various authors since 1845 and has been observed more often than in any other megadrile species. Cocoon laying starts 48 hours after copulation, and the rate of cocoon production is 0.35–0.5 day–1. The hatching viability is 72%–82%, and the incubation period ranges from 18 to 26 days. The number of young earthworms hatching from viable cocoons varies from 2.5 to 3.8 depending on the temperature. In controlled conditions, the average life span is 594 days at 18°C(64.4°F) and 589 days at 28°C(82.4°F) with a maximum life expectancy between 4.5 and 5 years, although under natural conditions it may be considerably shorter.
The life cycle and population biology of E. fetida and E. andrei in different organic wastes have been investigated by several authors (Watanabe and Tsukamoto 1976; Hartenstein et al. 1979; Edwards 1988; Reinecke and Viljoen 1990; Domínguez et al. 1997; Domínguez and Edwards 1997; Domínguez et al. 2000; Monroy et al. 2006). The optimum temperature for growth of both species is 25°C(68°F), and although they can tolerate a wide range of moisture conditions, the optimum moisture content for these species is 85%. In optimum conditions the length of their life cycles (from newly-laid cocoon through clitellate adult earthworm) ranges from 45 to 51 days. The time for hatchlings to reach sexual maturity varies from 21 to 30 days. Copulation in these species, which takes place beneath the soil or waste surface, has been men- tioned by various authors since 1845 and has been observed more often than in any other megadrile species. Cocoon laying starts 48 hours after copulation, and the rate of cocoon production is 0.35–0.5 day–1. The hatching viability is 72%–82%, and the incubation period ranges from 18 to 26 days. The number of young earthworms hatching from viable cocoons varies from 2.5 to 3.8 depending on the temperature. In controlled conditions, the average life span is 594 days at 18°C(64.4°F) and 589 days at 28°C(82.4°F) with a maximum life expectancy between 4.5 and 5 years, although under natural conditions it may be considerably shorter.
SpaaaceCowboy
Well-Known Member
thanks for the informative post Don....
Bueno Time
Well-Known Member
Nice, made it through the whole thread now. I started my worm bins before finding this thread, Ive had my worms for a week and they seem to be doing well. They love pureed veggie/fruit with a little coffee grounds. Fed them a little corn meal/oatmeal/crab shell mix and they swarmed that too. Planning to feed them small amounts of dry amendments like some are doing, have to order some more amendments anyway, all I have is a half cup or so of crab shell right now and a couple tbsp of dolomite lime.
Im feeding on one side of my bins, I saw someone else posted in here how they do their bins half at a time, might do something like that with mine. Right now I am trying to gauge how fast they work the food I add so I havent added much food since I see more posts about bad things from adding too much food rather than too little (they will eat the bedding or cycle their own castings/bacteria/fungi if food is short/gone).
I started with 2lbs red wigglers from uncle jims. I was going to start 4 bins but just split between two and when the population grows I will split into the 4 seperate bins but for now the bottom bins are to catch any leachate. In a couple months I should be able to use some fresh homemade castings on my plants.
(Already posted these in the ROLS thread but I figured Id put them in here in the Vermicompost thread.)
Im feeding on one side of my bins, I saw someone else posted in here how they do their bins half at a time, might do something like that with mine. Right now I am trying to gauge how fast they work the food I add so I havent added much food since I see more posts about bad things from adding too much food rather than too little (they will eat the bedding or cycle their own castings/bacteria/fungi if food is short/gone).
I started with 2lbs red wigglers from uncle jims. I was going to start 4 bins but just split between two and when the population grows I will split into the 4 seperate bins but for now the bottom bins are to catch any leachate. In a couple months I should be able to use some fresh homemade castings on my plants.
(Already posted these in the ROLS thread but I figured Id put them in here in the Vermicompost thread.)
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
Good job man, you'll be amazed how addictive it is to have worms, I kinda think of them like pets, if I could humbly make a suggestion, get a newspaper and open it length wise, and cover the top layer with it, it being soaked of course. works sorta like a mulch cover for your plants, only for the surface of the wormbin, its also kinda works like a buffer if it gets unexpectably hot or dry out, or if you simply forget to water your worms, and the worms like it...
oh, and if you can find spoiled grapes or apples, those two things are their favorites, at least for mine
oh, and if you can find spoiled grapes or apples, those two things are their favorites, at least for mine
Chronikool
Well-Known Member
some people dont like too...but i dont give a fuck to be honest...
i keep my wormz hungry so they dont have a choice what they eat...kind of liken them to pit dogz....dont put your hand in the bin...
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
you know, I've talked to many many hippy composters (lots around) and they feed them onions too, and I've seen some of their bins, and those worms, well, you said it well, like pit dogs... I guess like anything, can't believe 100% of what you read, I've always read onions were a bad thing for wormbinssome people dont like too...but i dont give a fuck to be honest...
i keep my wormz hungry so they dont have a choice what they eat...kind of liken them to pit dogz....dont put your hand in the bin...
Haven't done it yet, added onions that is, but my bins are kinda small, especially compared to the ones I've seen, I have two 20 or 25 gallon smartpots for mine, can't remember what size they are, the tag rotted off in the sun yrs ago
Chronikool
Well-Known Member
if you had the choice...im sure onionz wouldnt be their go too....but they will get in there....
break them up a bit...i havent seen a mass exodus yet.
i also dont harvest my castingz per se....one general bin....i just grab a whole handfull of wormz, castings etc and mix it in my soil on transplant...shit workz well...
doesn't matter the size of the pot either....this is a myth....if your soil is balanced and healthy and conditionz are right...the wormz will stay and keep producing the good stuff for the duration of your grow.
break them up a bit...i havent seen a mass exodus yet.
i also dont harvest my castingz per se....one general bin....i just grab a whole handfull of wormz, castings etc and mix it in my soil on transplant...shit workz well...
doesn't matter the size of the pot either....this is a myth....if your soil is balanced and healthy and conditionz are right...the wormz will stay and keep producing the good stuff for the duration of your grow.
Dr.D81
Well-Known Member
Yea i have had them make it for months till after i chop and there they are when i deroot to recycle my soil. Even in 1 and 2 gal potsif you had the choice...im sure onionz wouldnt be their go too....but they will get in there....
break them up a bit...i havent seen a mass exodus yet.
i also dont harvest my castingz per se....one general bin....i just grab a whole handfull of wormz, castings etc and mix it in my soil on transplant...shit workz well...
doesn't matter the size of the pot either....this is a myth....if your soil is balanced and healthy and conditionz are right...the wormz will stay and keep producing the good stuff for the duration of your grow.
Bueno Time
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply, I know I am already addicted to it and I just started my bins haha. Already thinking about where I can put more and bigger bins when the population starts growing in my current bins. They are only 13"x9" inside dimensions Rubbermaid Roughneck 3 gallon totes so they are pretty small but I like that too in a way so I can stick them around in different small spots that arent used by anything else. Id love to have a big ass bin one of those totes that are the size of a bathtub almost haha. But not the prettiest thing to look at in the house and outdoor bins are not possible in my climate of extreme heat and low humidity.
Oh ya I had added some moistened newspaper to the top of the feeding half of each bin a couple days ago when I fed them a little slurry. If you think it would benefit I can do a layer over the top of the whole bin.
No apples or grapes right now but are a pretty regular food item in the house so next time I will save the mushier grapes and stuff for them and old apple cores or over ripe apples. Ive been blending the food and veggie scraps in my Vitamix to a thick slop for them. Last batch was butternut squash, lettuce, banana peel, couple tbsp coffee grounds, parsley, a pineapple slice, couple pieces of cantelope and honeydew, some other random old crisper drawer items. They seem to like it and go through it fast but I do want to start experimenting with different foods separately in corners to see what they really go for the most if given the choice.
st0wandgrow
Well-Known Member
Nice, made it through the whole thread now. I started my worm bins before finding this thread, Ive had my worms for a week and they seem to be doing well. They love pureed veggie/fruit with a little coffee grounds. Fed them a little corn meal/oatmeal/crab shell mix and they swarmed that too. Planning to feed them small amounts of dry amendments like some are doing, have to order some more amendments anyway, all I have is a half cup or so of crab shell right now and a couple tbsp of dolomite lime.
Im feeding on one side of my bins, I saw someone else posted in here how they do their bins half at a time, might do something like that with mine. Right now I am trying to gauge how fast they work the food I add so I havent added much food since I see more posts about bad things from adding too much food rather than too little (they will eat the bedding or cycle their own castings/bacteria/fungi if food is short/gone).
I started with 2lbs red wigglers from uncle jims. I was going to start 4 bins but just split between two and when the population grows I will split into the 4 seperate bins but for now the bottom bins are to catch any leachate. In a couple months I should be able to use some fresh homemade castings on my plants.
(Already posted these in the ROLS thread but I figured Id put them in here in the Vermicompost thread.)
Looks great Bueno!
Greasemonkey suggested it above, and I'll reiterate, get a layer of something on the top of the bedding. I use leaves (maple, cannabis, whatever).
I feed on opposite sides of the bin each time, and I just scoop the leaves away from that side and lay down the slop/eggshells/amendments, little new bedding over top, and then scoop the leaves back in to place. Once a week routine
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
I messed with a sheet of translucent hard plastic as a cover, the worms seemed to like it, they always be hangin out right under it, problem was the compost tended to smell a teensy bit, so I went back to the newspaper, the plastic seemed to work pretty well though, I imagine it'd be a better method to keep transpiration down, and the heat up too.
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
One thing that seems to REALLY speed up the process of producing EWC is to freeze the spoiling fruits/veggies before feeding, then let them defrost, and from what I've read the freezing explodes the cells of the food, and then defrosting them makes it a slimy mess, but it's like a pre-digest for the worms, the difference is about four days, for an apple, 2 days for them to eat it when frozen, 6 days when it's not frozen.
The fastest EWC is made from rotting grapes, in my experience anyways, but I haven't fed them everything
Pattahabi
Well-Known Member
This plastic is the black and white stuff. I just loosely lay a piece on the top and close the lid. Makes it really easy to pull it back and add materials. The worms definitely like doing their thing on the plastic lol!
I really often freeze and thaw the food. I agree, it seems to really speed up the decomposition process!
Peace!
P-