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mrrager420

Well-Known Member
Question. Eventually I plan to upgrade my LED set up. Got a 2x2x5 grow tent and I've been eying A51 for a while. At first i was gonna go with the rw75 but it says recommended coverage is 20"x20". So would the rw150 be too much for that size space without an inline fan exhaust? The led I'm using now is the Blackstar 135w UFO. Produces quality bud but I'm after maximizing WEIGHT now.
 

FranJan

Well-Known Member
Question. Eventually I plan to upgrade my LED set up. Got a 2x2x5 grow tent and I've been eying A51 for a while. At first i was gonna go with the rw75 but it says recommended coverage is 20"x20". So would the rw150 be too much for that size space without an inline fan exhaust? The led I'm using now is the Blackstar 135w UFO. Produces quality bud but I'm after maximizing WEIGHT now.
You're going to want air flow regardless of the efficiency of the RW150 for a few reasons, beyond just heat reasons, right? But in the case of the 150 it's reasons like the drivers are inside the panel, which will add heat to the grow area to some degree and that the 150 uses lenses, which generate some heat. BTW I don't own an A51, so I'm not familiar with how hot a RW150 really runs. Have you ever thought about doing a COB DIY? Good way of adding light without increasing heat like most panels usually do. You can run larger ones at a low mA, keeping the heat generated low, and then add them alongside the BS to increase your weight "issues". Two CREE/Bridgelux WW COBs, mounted on CPU coolers would really up your grow IMO. Hans/BonsaiHero, (which I do own :)), panels are an option too if you don't DIY. It's drivers aren't built in so they don't have to be located in the grow area. Hope that helps. Good Luck.

Edit: Oh and no lenses on the Hans too, which helps keep the heat generated down.
 

natro.hydro

Well-Known Member
^ Yeah you are gonna need something moving air regardless of what you go for with light. I am running 4 of the RW-75s right now and that tent is in the same room as my IG-420 tent. The Ig tent doesn't get over 79 unless I forgot to open the door to let the room breathe, then it is 84 worst case scenario, but the RWs are usually around 80-82. I am looking at getting a better exhaust soon since the fan I have exhausting now couldn't blow its way out of a paper bag..... I do not think the 150 would run much hotter than 2 of the 75s so heat should not really be an issue, but the DIY route is something you may want to check out. With COBs you do not need to be that tech savvy even, kinda has me thinking about trying them for side lighting in the future.
 

mrrager420

Well-Known Member
You're going to want air flow regardless of the efficiency of the RW150 for a few reasons, beyond just heat reasons, right? But in the case of the 150 it's reasons like the drivers are inside the panel, which will add heat to the grow area to some degree and that the 150 uses lenses, which generate some heat. BTW I don't own an A51, so I'm not familiar with how hot a RW150 really runs. Have you ever thought about doing a COB DIY? Good way of adding light without increasing heat like most panels usually do. You can run larger ones at a low mA, keeping the heat generated low, and then add them alongside the BS to increase your weight "issues". Two CREE/Bridgelux WW COBs, mounted on CPU coolers would really up your grow IMO. Hans/BonsaiHero, (which I do own :)), panels are an option too if you don't DIY. It's drivers aren't built in so they don't have to be located in the grow area. Hope that helps. Good Luck.

Edit: Oh and no lenses on the Hans too, which helps keep the heat generated down.
I appreciate the response FranJan and natro.hydro. Nice info. Probably should have mentioned this before but i do have air moving in and out of my tent. There's a mesh opening and a 6in vent on the bottom of my tent. Gotta 10in desktop fan blowing air through the mesh opening and is exhasuted on it's own out of the 6in vent next too it. Before i started using it temps was in the low to mid 80's. Now they're 72(lights off)-75(lights on) degrees. So it works for me. Only thing is it's too noisy so i'm gonna replace it soon. I've thought about a DIY to save a few bucks and just for fun of it. Nothing like making something yourself but i'm lost when it comes to that type of stuff. I can definitely follow directions but trying to do something on my own like that w/o guidance i'm sure i would screw something up and waste my money. haha. But if you guys know of a DIY guide or could help me yourself sounds like i'd go that route for now. I'll have to check out the Hans/BonsaiHero you mentioned. But what exactly do you mean by "It's drivers aren't built in so they don't have to be located in the grow area."? What exactly doesn't have to be located in the grow area?
 

Bad Karma

Well-Known Member
Question. Eventually I plan to upgrade my LED set up. Got a 2x2x5 grow tent and I've been eying A51 for a while. At first i was gonna go with the rw75 but it says recommended coverage is 20"x20". So would the rw150 be too much for that size space without an inline fan exhaust?
An RW-150 would be ideal for your 2x2 tent.
The only issue is that you need at least 18"-24" of space between the light and the canopy.
5 ft. doesn't give you a lot to work with, but if you can deal with that, you're golden.
Good luck.
 

mrrager420

Well-Known Member
An RW-150 would be ideal for your 2x2 tent.
The only issue is that you need at least 18"-24" of space between the light and the canopy.
5 ft. doesn't give you a lot to work with, but if you can deal with that, you're golden.
Good luck.
Oh yeah i could definitely manage the 18"-24" vertical distance needed. Right now i got a WWxBB on 14 days of flower in a 3gal super roots air pot using the trellis they make for it and there is still about 15 inches from the top of the tent to the top of my light. Which is 18in away from the top of my canopy. FranJan mentioned the Hans panel and now i'm leaning toward his 80w panel. People are pulling decent weight with it and it doesn't use much power which is a huge plus for my current situation. Still got A51 on my list. Can't beat that lifetime warranty. Preciate the input!
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
PSUAGRO, he did not start with the BML, but said it was the best finish in his experience. He used their standard model, which is not designed for mj

Personally, Im not crazy about their standard SPYDR which has < 10% 'green'. Apparently, this is considered fine for commercial vegetable grows (I disagree) as does a study SDS posted in his thread

The light I am getting is a one off: colors mostly to my specs. Nick had a few ideas, and since he is footing the bill....

I shot for an AIO (All In One) light for both veg and flower

Stay tuned in my thread
 
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PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Oh yeah i could definitely manage the 18"-24" vertical distance needed. Right now i got a WWxBB on 14 days of flower in a 3gal super roots air pot using the trellis they make for it and there is still about 15 inches from the top of the tent to the top of my light. Which is 18in away from the top of my canopy. FranJan mentioned the Hans panel and now i'm leaning toward his 80w panel. People are pulling decent weight with it and it doesn't use much power which is a huge plus for my current situation. Still got A51 on my list. Can't beat that lifetime warranty. Preciate the input!

My WW stretched like a ballet dancer after bud set

I had to snap branches and tie them down along my cube
 

natro.hydro

Well-Known Member
The driver is what converts the power to the the LEDs (i think still working to better understand this stuff myself) and in most panels they are built into the unit, adding to the heat of the room. While the hans has a driver with a cord you can move away to take away from canopy temps, the no lens helps with temps as well. there is actually a very nice sticky below this about DIY leds and how to power them, supra also has a thread he started to show his COB build. I would start there if you are really looking at DIY, takes a while to get some of the techno babble they through around in those threads but if I can start to grasp it I am pretty sure anyone can. It is a little overwhelming at first to say the least when you first start looking at DIY if I do say so myself but this is definitely the future.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
I'm maybe considering a custom BML setup for myself, but for a small tent I'd definitely go with an Area51 RW150.
Don't get me wrong, I am a A 51 fan, but BML is more flexible for the $$$: 12" @ $119

You can use their DIY and select your own 'colors' for individual bars!

http://www.bmlcustom.com/custom-led-strip/

Each length is minimum of 12" I'm thinking 3-4 @ 12/24" would be killer in a small tent

BUT, you would need to DIY a simple frame
to rest them on
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
RU Nutzz?

Florida is NOT a legal state.

You are putting a bulls-eye on yourself.

Cancel your account and pick an anonymous UN
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
PSUAGRO, he did not start with the BML, but said it was the best finish in his experience. He used their standard model, which is not designed for mj

Personally, Im not crazy about their standard SPYDR which has < 10% 'green'. Apparently, this is considered fine for commercial vegetable grows (I disagree) as does a study SDS posted in his thread

The light I am getting is a one off: colors mostly to my specs. Nick had a few ideas, and since he is footing the bill....

I shot for an AIO (All In One) light for both veg and flower

Stay tuned in my thread
Sorry pet, thought he went start - finish with the bml unit............that "darned" green gap being beneficial is very debatable:P
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Sorry pet, thought he went start - finish with the bml unit............that "darned" green gap being beneficial is very debatable:P
Apparently you did not read through his thread, but are criticizing. WTF?

He also grew a strain not known for big yields

So you read the study on SDSs thread (or did you?) but are still in the low 'green' camp?

Even though several guys are getting excellent results with 3000K COBs?

Oh well...


And what about long term genetic issues due to lack of full spectrums?

FYI: The sun is not < 5% green
:bigjoint:
 

spazatak

Well-Known Member
Apparently you did not read through his thread, but are criticizing. WTF?

He also grew a strain not known for big yields

So you read the study on SDSs thread (or did you?) but are still in the low 'green' camp?

Even though several guys are getting excellent results with 3000K COBs?

Oh well...


And what about long term genetic issues due to lack of full spectrums?


FYI: The sun is not < 5% green
:bigjoint:
Have you found any scientific evidence on this yet?
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
All you have to do is compare organic soil to the pathetic soil base used to grow commercial crops

FYI over 20 years ago The US Dept of Agriculture Assoc told us the that commercial farming top soil (top 6") is DEAD

More people are sick and on meds than ever before, with each generation getting weaker and more predisposed to disorders and diseases.

A lack of balanced nutrients (including biologicals and micros) makes for VASTLY inferior food products

Why would any clear thinking person not make the leap to light spectrums?


At first I swallowed the R/B BS, then I began to think about it

Apparently NASA has too
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Apparently you did not read through his thread, but are criticizing. WTF?

He also grew a strain not known for big yields

So you read the study on SDSs thread (or did you?) but are still in the low 'green' camp?

Even though several guys are getting excellent results with 3000K COBs?

Oh well...


And what about long term genetic issues due to lack of full spectrums?

FYI: The sun is not < 5% green
:bigjoint:
Hey-hey ...
Wait a min Pet ...
Let's sort some things out ....

I ;'ve never suggested that green light is mandatory ...
I've always supported that ...
Depending on species, strain,grow techniques utilised , absolute total light power ,green light power ,the overall ratio of(UV)-R-G-B-(FR) and few other factors ....

Then green light (=> 500nm to 600 nm region ,thus cyan yellow and amber ,except the green )
Can be from destructive ,to detrimental ,to useful,to beneficial to mandatory ....

Unfortunately the green light story ,is still debatable,as PSUAGRO mentioned...
It really 'confuses and dazzles ' a whole bunch of scientists ..
Neither you or me ,or anyone else ,can have a definite answer to the 'Green light" question ...
Really complicated ...
(Right now,the only knowing the 'whole ' 'secret'/ truth are plants themselves,actually,LOL!.)
What is known is this simple thing ....
As total irradiation (light power ) increases ...Then ..
'Green light' starts to show ,really positive effects ,in most plant species ...
And that ..
When at (high ) total irradiances of 1000-2000 umol/sec ,it comprises the 15-25% of the total light power ...
(Which is just 1/5 - 1/4 ! of total light power ..The rest 4/5- 3/4 (80-75% )of power is shared between the 'blue' and 'red' ranges ....With red dominating,in most cases )

The new Han's panels ,are right on spot ...(I think ...)
With two efficient Cool white crees ,it has all the 'greens' needed ..
Sacrificing as less efficiency as possible ....
It may seem as a 'simple' color choice (at start ...)
But ain't ....
In fact,it is one of the best suited ,to our purposes ...
Efficient and simple .
Still...
There are other ways ..
Almost equally good ...(Nowdays,at least ,yes ! )
If not better ...

So ...We;'re blessed ,us Led growers ...
As we've the chance to choose from many different fine choices ,
accustomed to each one's special needs ,levels, allowances and/or restrictions ..

And that versatility is what makes LEDS really shine !

Peace,brother ...
:peace:
 
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spazatak

Well-Known Member
All you have to do is compare organic soil to the pathetic soil base used to grow commercial crops

FYI over 20 years ago The US Dept of Agriculture Assoc told us the that commercial farming top soil (top 6") is DEAD

More people are sick and on meds than ever before, with each generation getting weaker and more predisposed to disorders and diseases.

A lack of balanced nutrients (including biologicals and micros) makes for VASTLY inferior food products

Why would any clear thinking person not make the leap to light spectrums?


At first I swallowed the R/B BS, then I began to think about it

Apparently NASA has too
So you have no evidence that over successive generations genetic mutations will occur due to spectrum imbalance?



in regards to your example... Organic food and commercially grown food have minimal nutritional difference to the point of it not being considered a factor... I proved that last time you made these claims with evidence...and why you would use that example to prove a completely unrelated statement is amusing to say the least
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Your evidence comes from the same people who fund lies in the guise of 'scientific studies' as I said when we 'discussed' this before (paid for by whom, with what outcome demanded?) so they can continue to perpetuate their max dollar rewards at the expense of human health. Why? Monsanto, Dow Chemical, Big Pharma and government are in it together.

The government probably by default because you can't get elected without a HUGE war chest. We the people, cannot compete against that, and so the so-called government by/for and of the people has been overtaken by big business.

FYI Bush 43 (I think) passed a law making corporations 'people' which allows them to write as big a campaign contribution check as they want to support a candidate

Too much for many I know, but that doesn't change the reality

If you don't want me to repeat myself, I suggest you refrain from engaging me on this subject
 
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