Originally Posted by tahoe58

light is certainly critical....it is the energy source for the building blocks and processes to happen. feed enuf light, and supplement with sufficient water, nutes, and air....and the plant will gorw. we are currently debating the uv question here....Trichomes, THC and UVB light..... .......

****EDIT**** - in my view you have not f*cked them....they just lost some potential...temporarily....

Originally Posted by Lacy

Wow tahoe. great read!!!
I have been researching this for a bit now. I was wondering the same thing myself.
I'm down to two light choices right now.
An 800 watt system that eks 2 bulbs at the same time. You can have either 2 MH, 2 hps or one of each. It has a built in fan but is also $400.
There is another 1000 watt system that takes either MH or hps but it is $350.

I like the idea of having 2 bulbs. More costly to run but I bet that would work nicely.

Originally Posted by tahoe58

this search for the "perfect" analog for natural sunlight is really interesting and I believe we are still not really there. the fundamental objective of the indoor growers has been yeild and speed, and not necessarily quality. that does not mean indoor stuff is crap...it just means that if you talk to oldtimers...ok, yea I'm one, the indoor weed pales in comparison to the excellent outdoor weed we had in the 70's. then add the physics of light and a couple of other principles and you start to see where the shortfall might be coming from. integral with this discussion is the debate over the "pupose" and evolution of the trichome. this has helps us better understand the how and whys? I am one that is going to try the UV thing once I get myself better organized. I also like the idea of the double HPS/MH bulb. So in my case and for my space (currently a 400W super HPS), I will be looking to put in 2 x 250W (HPS and MH) or theere is also a single dual bulb (400W or 600W) and I will likely also add the UV (either 160W or 300W).

For whatever reason, it still just is not that simple. I was looking at a bulb called the SloarMax (1000W)...and yet when you talk to other growers they say the ones they have been using are better. But it really does come down to what ur objective is. In my case, I obviously want a decent yeild, and I don't want to wait forever for it.....but my prime objective is quality of smoke.

Good luck Lacy....

Originally Posted by matth82003

Color rating- Measured in Kelvin (K). The higher the number, the more bluish the light. 4000K-7000K is mostly on the blue side of the spectrum, while 3000K and under goes from a white spectrum, to a redder spectrum.

How much light is needed?
The minimum amount of light required by marijuana plants is around 3000 lumens per square foot. However, it's not 100% accurate, since although you may have a 10,000 lumen light, the amount of light that reaches the plant varies with the distance between the light and plants, and reflectivity of the grow box. The ideal amount is somewhere around 7000-10,000 lumens/sqft, and as long as the plants do not burn, as much light can be used as you want.
(*note, the sun produces about 10,000 lumens/sqft, on a sunny summer day).

Determining lumens for your grow area:
Determine the square footage of your area (example in a 4 foot by 4 foot area, there is 16 square feet)
If you have a 1000 watt High Pressure Sodium, that produces (approx.) 107,000 lumens.
Divide this by 16 (your square footage) 107,000 / 16 = 6687 lumens per square foot.
So just divide the total amount of Lumens, by the total amount of Sq ft, and thats your lumens per square foot.

How far away from my plants do the lights go?
The lights in your grow room should be as close as possible to the plants without burning them. There is no such thing as too much, unless there is sufficient heat to dry out and burn the leaves. A good rule is to put your hand under the light, if its too hot for your hand, chances are that the plants will be too, so move the light up until your hand feels more comfortable. For seedlings and clones, I keep them a little further away from the light, because they are very susceptible to burning and drying out, at these stages.

Efficiency is very important when choosing a type of light. The wattage is not the most important thing, as you can see below, different types of light produce different amounts of lumens per watt. A 300 watt incandescent will produce about 5100 lumens. While a 300 watt Metal Halide (just an example, they do not come in 300 watts), will produce 27,000 lumens. Obviously far more efficient for growing, while still using the same amount of electricity.

Approximate light production:
Incandescents: 17 lumens/watt
Mercury vapor: 45-50 lumens/watt
Fluorescents: 60-70 lumens/watt
Metal halide: 90 lumens/watt
High pressure sodium: 107 lumens/watt

Incandescent lights: Incandescents are the most popular type of lights in the world. They may come advertised as incandescent, tungsten, quartz, halogen, or simply standard. The important thing about incandescents is this: they suck.
There are some incandescents which are sold as 'grow lights.' They usually have a blue coating and usually come in 60W and 120W sizes. While they may seem like a good choice to new growers, they are next to useless; they produce some light at a usable spectrum, but only have about a 5% efficiency and generate more heat than usable light. Most of us have these in our homes right now. Don't use them for growing, instead opt for a Compact Fluorescent as a cheaper but more efficient alternative.

Fluorescent lights: Fluorescents are a lot more useful than incandescents. Their efficient enough, and cheaper than HID lights. Compact fluorescent tubes are popular with growers because of their good output to size ratio. Compared to standard 4' tubes, compact fluorescent bulbs are smaller, and more can fit into a given area. Fluorescents are good for small grows on a tight budget, and for novice growers, since they do not require any special sort of wiring or understanding of the necessary bulbs for a given fixture, and are very widely available.
Fluorescent lights come in many different Kelvin ratings; often the spectrums are labeled on packaging as being 'cool white' or 'warm white.' Cool white is more blue, and is good for the vegetative stages of growth, and warm white light is more orange or reddish, and is best for the flowering stage.

High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting Systems:

Mercury Vapor (MV)
Mercury vapor lights are not the most efficient light for growing. They are very bright, and relatively cheap. They do emit light at the wavelengths necessary to support your plants growth, but not nearly as good as a MH or Hps light. Much of the light emitted by MV lights is bluish-white. Street lighting is what most MV lighting is used for.

Metal Halide (MH)
Metal halide lighting systems are optimal for use in the vegetative phase of growing. They emit mostly blue light, which encourages vigorous growth of foliage. They are very efficient, but can get rather expensive to start with; fluorescents may seem more appealing because of their lower price, and they are not much different when compared on a lumen-to-lumen cost level. These lights can be used through-out the grow, but will most likely result in light, fluffy buds.

High Pressure Sodium (HPS)
High pressure sodium lights emit mostly orange, yellow, and red spectrum light, which is perfect for the flowering stage of the plants growth. They are (in my opinion) the most efficient type of light available for any application. HPS lights can be used through-out the entire grow. They produce more dense and usually larger buds than any other light.
HPS lights are generally a little more expensive than MH systems of similar wattage. They are more commonly used by experienced growers because of their ability to produce tighter buds, higher lumen-output-per-watt, and will produce from start to finish.

I'll also add this graph below, i hope this post helps some of you out.

Originally Posted by master mioda

Hi Again, I have found good article Pot potency
Just another proof of UV importance.