Snake Oil, Horticultural Myths, Horticultural Urban Legends, and Persuaders

Originally Posted by boneheadbob

American Pride by Fox Farm organic nutes

I would like to mix this in a bag of organic soil such as roots or OFGreat

for all types of flowers, time-released American Pride Dry Fertilizer (9-6-6) includes earthworm castings, bat guano and cottonseed meal to produce dark green foliage and abundant blooms. American Pride is also specially formulated with alfalfa, iron and linoleic acid, making it particularly beneficial to roses. As it decomposes, American Pride develops more nitrate nitrogen which is more suitable for flowers than vegetables.

Cottonseed Meal, Blood Meal, Earthworm Castings, Bat Guano, Ammonium Sulphate, Calcium Nitrate, Ammonium Phosphate, Treble Phosphate, Potassium Nitrate, Potassium Sulphate, Potassium Chloride, Ferrous Sulphate, Zinc Sulphate, Copper Sulphate, Manganese Oxysulphate, Calcium Carbonate, Alfalfa Meal, Ureaform, Urea, Potassium Nitrate, Zinc Sulphate, Copper Sulphate, Manganese, Oxysulphate, Calcium Carbonate, Magnesium Carbonate

i bet it's good stuff. i gave it a look but i ended up going with the peace of mind organic stuff (5-5-5) and mixed it into gardner's gold soil.

basically i got sick of having to pay so damn much attention to my plants. feed this day, water that day. pain in the ass. i just want to look at my plants and determine if they are doing "good" or "bad", not hold their hands. i have shit to do. i was using dyna gro (which is by far the finest synthetic plant food i have ever used) and my results were good, but if i didn't keep on top of things i'd get the damn salt issues later in flower and keeping the leaves green required more effort than i was willing to expend. for all i know it's my tap water, but since i'm not a scientist and wouldn't know what any of the crap on a water report means i decided to try a time release type thing. i went organic to see if my salt issues were in my head.

long story short i'm 6 weeks into flower on my first run with the stuff and i've poured nothing but plain water on them and they are doing great. i still have some dialing in to do with ratios and timing a top dress, but i'm going to go down this road from now on.

i'm the laziest tightwad you'll ever meet, and i figured out a cheap and easy way to grow better pot than i did before, and i spend around 30% less per plant per cycle.
next on the list is to see if azomite will kick it up a notch. a lot of these time release organics lack micros so that stuff should round out the menu.

and although UB might take issue with some of what i've said here, his philosophies and tidbits are actually what inspired me to go cheaper and lazier. the organic deal was my idea though. i plan on moving in a year or so and i can't be bothered to figure out if something's up with my water to cause salt buildup so going organic was the next best thing.

Originally Posted by beans davis

UB too funny i just snapped to your sign off:tio bendajo=uncle and your play on pendajo using ben.
I thought you were spelling it wrong now i see the light.

Only a Texas would understand, hah.

UB,
Im about to run this ratio for bloom from day 1 to finish.. and i have micros just not listed.
n-115
p-113
k-236
mg-66
ca-126
s-49

should i increase or decrease any of the above listed ppms, during any stage of growth or just keep it where its at start to finish???


Now from what Ive heard, is there an advantage to running different nutrient ratios during different stages of flowering. For example, run higher P early, then higher K during mid to late???
I think this idea comes from the advanced nutrients 'scientist' and there many products. like bud blood (0-39-25) Big Bud (0-1-3) Overdrive (1-5-4)

Originally Posted by sharpshoota

UB,
Im about to run this ratio for bloom from day 1 to finish.. and i have micros just not listed.
n-115
p-113
k-236
mg-66
ca-126
s-49

That'll work, unless you get leaf drop then increase the N.

Now from what Ive heard, is there an advantage to running different nutrient ratios during different stages of flowering. For example, run higher P early, then higher K during mid to late???
I think this idea comes from the advanced nutrients 'scientist' and there many products. like bud blood (0-39-25) Big Bud (0-1-3) Overdrive (1-5-4)

The advantage is only for the vendor. You buy into the vendor hype that cannabis needs different stuff at different times and he makes money off another sucker. That's the game, and it is a game, a tawdry one at that.

I use only one food from start to finish and I guarantee you, I'll out produce any one in this forum with healthy plants that are a fine green and retain 99% of their leaves until harvest, which is what drives good production, not some additive or supplement. For example, I use a slow release, 10 month, 18-5-9 with micros from start to finish. Here's a late shot regarding how they look and the fact that they are already going into a preflowering mode. Outdoors, solstice is still 3 weeks away with August producing a strong flowering response.

GroupShot5_12.jpg

Classic post...now where did i leave my electrolytes?

subbed. You've totally validated what I've been telling my boyfriend for the last few harvests. Good luckin out Uncle Ben

Speaking of lazy and a low maintenance guy, this speaks for itself. So you noobs are hooked on cannabis specific Bloom foods (aka snakeoil)..... eh?

Mix in a slow release food, water and go about your biz.

The 'myth' that gets me beyond the 'B vits' and 'defoliating' for frosty budz is advanced shysters tells noobs that use AN products and the plants flower time is 7 weeks, 1 week less than competitors.

Now seeing as the plants flowers most weight comes in the last 2 week, most noobs must be harvesting way too early. learn to read plants.