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  #11    
Old 01-11-2007, 06:34 PM
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How well a strain clones seems to be something that isn't very well documented. I know from experience that ATF if hard to clone. I started at least 12 clones and of those I ended up with 4 healthy plants. I have never had problems with clones like I did with the ATF. But it is soooooo well worth the hassle.
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Old 01-11-2007, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Your most clonable (is that even a word?) strains seem to be those that you can't start from seed. That you can only get from clone only. Is there something built into their genetics? Maybe.
I don't realy understand the not starting from seed thing. I don't know much bout cloning, so maybe thats why I don't get it. sorry.
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Old 01-11-2007, 06:44 PM
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There are some strains that don't have seeds. So obviously those have to be cloned since there are no seeds to start.


Materials required:
- Fluorescent light
- plastic tub
- liquid rooting hormone
- sharp knife/scalpel
- superthrive
- ph tester and adjuster

Cloning...
Take cuttings from clean, disease-free stock. Cuttings taken from plants that have been deprived of nutrients, especially water, will respond poorly. Cuttings of equal length foliage and color should be selected and must not contain deformities in leaf growth pattern for optimum uniformity of the plants after rooting. Select cuttings from the most vigorously growing portion of the plant; this is where the highest concentration of auxins (growth hormones) are found. Cuttings selected should be green barked and should not contain any of the woodier type bark which indicates age. The finished cutting should be as short as possible 4-5 inches is preferred. Remember, auxins are more concentrated at the growing tip. Three of four small, well-formed leaves should be left intact. The propagation area and all containers should be carefully cleaned to reduce the danger of infection. Fill plastic tub or other suitable container with clean water. It should not contain fertilizer, but it is advisable to adjust the ph to 6.4 (6.2 to 6.6 is acceptable). Also, add superthrive at a ratio of 10 drops per U.S. gallon. Maintain the water at a temperature of 78 degrees (26C).

The cuttings taken should be at least 1 inch longer than you are going to use make the cut with a sharp knife and immediately place the entire cutting into the PH adjusted water. While the cutting is under water, cut it to the final length. Make the cut in a single, smooth motion at a 45-degree angle to the stem. If there is an internode at the cut point, make your cut directly below the node. With the cutting still submerged remove any excess leaves. If there are no internodes at the cut, make three or four shallow vertical slits (no deeper than the outer bark) upward from the cut along the stem about 1/2 inch. These cut must be made with the cutting submerged or air will be sucked into the stem causing what as know as an air embolism in which bubbles block the movement of water up the stem. An air embolism can cause death or slow the rooting process by weeks. This is known as the sip of life technique. By making all secondary cuts underwater, you eliminate air bubbles, reduce unnecessary strain on the clone and allow the cutting to stabilize in a fluid environment. After making your second cut and removing any excess leaves under water, remove the cutting and submerge the cut end in a liquid rooting hormone. Make sure at least 1 inch of the cutting is placed in the hormone.

Reduce cutting stress...
By controlling light levels, humidity and temperature, your job is to keep the cutting in a complete state of dormancy. Cuttings with out roots are very sensitive to stress. Every effort should be made to minimize evaporation from the cuttings and avoid extreme light and temperature levels. Keep humidity as close to 100 percent as possible and maintain water and substrate temperatures at between 70 and 84 degrees (21-29C). Cooler water will slow root formation; warmer water will encourage disease. The lower the humidity level, the more water the plant will transpire, causing the cutting to use up stored food for things other than root production. It is important to hold the leaves as dormant as possible and permit the cutting to use more of it's energy on root development.
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Old 01-11-2007, 07:17 PM
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The reason some strains are only available in clone form usually depends on how long the strain has been around. Also, some people grow hundreds of plants from seed looking for the best phenotype of that strain, then clone the shit of only a few specified mothers. once a set of mother plants is established, the particular grower (assuming he doesnt fuck it all up) has no more need for seeds of that particualr strain. once more people start doing this, the less business the seed company gets. then n00bs just start buying clones rather than seeds for ease of getting started. then the cycle starts all over again
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Old 01-11-2007, 07:47 PM
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Thanks Everyone! I kinda understand and I realy like your discriptive instructions mogie. Thanks. I'll read your post a couple more times and then I will probly try it. It's good to know that if I spend the $ on seeds of a good strain I can continue the strain without spending more on more seeds.
 

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