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  #11  
Old 12-19-2007, 08:41 PM
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you probably need to increase the humidity in the drying area. 50-60% total. some even say 70% RH, 7 days, 70degrees.

proper humidity in the dry cycle allows the plant to "live" long enough for it to break down the remaining chlorophyll and other non-desirables

also are you trimming it into small sections to dry or leaving it mostly intact. intact will dry slower.
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  #12  
Old 12-19-2007, 09:12 PM
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ok so cut one of the main branches, cut off the big leaves and trim, hang upside down in my closet, on hangers, let them dry a week, cut them into smaller pieces off the main branch, then put in mason jars for two weeks..sound right? have ten days left, going to feed with distilled water and molasses only
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  #13  
Old 12-22-2007, 12:58 PM
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i think i was cutting them too small

also how can i raise humidity
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  #14  
Old 12-22-2007, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Ralphie View Post
well, after 3 days they are dry and crisp.. almost bending at the stem.. im not going by time as much as im going by feel.. maybe i should go a couple days longer, but i dont want them to crush into powder when broken up.. should the chloraphyl be out by the end of drying or atleast most of the smell(in normal cases)?
when the leaves turn greyish and squeeze the bud and smell it.
and if that doesnt work then u have to cure alot longer..
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  #15  
Old 12-23-2007, 12:14 AM
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i didnt get that
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  #16  
Old 12-23-2007, 12:23 AM
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i didnt get that
lol
ok
when your plants dries out fully, the leaves will turn greyish while their hanging, that means the chloraphyl is gone. then cure to make it even better
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  #17  
Old 12-23-2007, 01:03 AM
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Hey guys, let me help, there are many ways to get rid of the chlorophyl taste and smell. First drying too fast is a bad thing, the plant should hang upside down with small buds and right side up with big colas. i always grew outside so my branches were long which allows the buds to dry slower, next, in the old days the drying rooms were kept closed for at least a week before the venting slats on the sides of the drying area were cracked open SLIGHTLY to allow a little fresh air to get at the plants. They were opened a little more each day until fully opened, then the buds were checked until the stem would start to crack just a little bit when bent about 8 inches from the top. After that the pot was trimmed and bundled together and left for at least 6-8 weeks to finish curing, not in jars, but in paper wrappers or bags. Now,,,, that is the original way and you had to check constantly three or four times a day for mold in the center of the thicker buds with very low light, like a hand held black light so the plants didn't get ANY light as this causes photosynthesis and you are trying to get rid of the green, not grow it. In the old days no fans were used and thats why you had to look so often for mold. It's less likely to grow when the air is moving but it can't blow on the buds constantly or you blow dry them too fast, so use an oscillating fan from a distance so there is just a slight breeze, and keep enough distance at first between each branch as not to restrict air flow. Once the fan leaves sag you can put them closer together, but not ever touching until its time to bundle them up later. I know other methods like how to use vaporizers (humidifiers) to keep the humidity up and how to do a quick sweat that will turn your buds brown or red eventually, just ask if you want to know different ways or Email me privately for all the info. I can help you get the hashiest tasting buds you ever tasted if you really want to learn, but I HATE when I help people and they don't show any appreciation for the years of trial and error that I have put into learning all these techniques. One piece of knowledge is that you can prevent the crumbly problem with your buds and it is EASY. Are there any Connecticut growers out there on this site????????? If so contact me privately by Email. Anyone is welcome, but people that are within my range can benefit from my familiarity with our climate and soil types in this area and local resources. It's no riskier than posting on this or any web site, YA KNOW WHAT I MEAN. Hope this is helpful

Last edited by budman56; 12-23-2007 at 01:08 AM.
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  #18  
Old 12-23-2007, 01:09 AM
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Ralphie, you need to dry and cure much longer than a few days if you want that smell and taste to resemble the primo cannabis you buy. Also, the general rule of thumb is that the longer you cure, the more potent it will be. Doing it for a few days just dries it enough for you to be able to smoke it... But you're wasting the potential of the bud if you don't hold out for at least a little longer. Ideally, you want to cure it for about a month.

Also, if you're impatient enough that you can't wait that long after you harvest, you could water cure it. That removes most of the smell and taste, though probably more than you're aiming for. But it works.

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  #19  
Old 12-23-2007, 01:15 AM
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70 is way too warm if you dry slow, you grow mold at these temps if its real wet. Trimming fan leaves can be worse than leaving them on,the leaves over the buds allows them to dry slower and protects them from blow drying from any fans in the room. Temp, humidity, air circulation and amount of fresh air all affect taste
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  #20  
Old 12-23-2007, 01:21 AM
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Hey guys, after flushing, try using a piece of wire around the base of the plant, just tighten it a little more each day, slowly depriving the plant of water and causing the big leaves to eventually yellow from lack of water and nutrients, basically removing chlorophyl while the plant is alive. This is a proven way to get rid of that taste
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