does ph matter when flushing?

hi

just a quick question..

flushing the weekend for 2 weeks with molasses..my new auto watering system has let me down; i need to go away but can only top up 7.3ph tapwater..

is ph critical in the flushing process or will i get away with it??

any help gratefully recieved

imo you dont need to worry coz as long as the water is nute free the flush should still be effective.as long as you dont plan to flush for 2weeks or a similar long time length you should be fine.


good luck and enjoy ya harvest

like 000 said long as its straight water ph doesnt matter

000 said:

imo you dont need to worry coz as long as the water is nute free the flush should still be effective.as long as you dont plan to flush for 2weeks or a similar long time length you should be fine.


good luck and enjoy ya harvest

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i somewhat disagree.. the idea of flushing with plain water with no nutes is to allow the plant to use the rest of the nutes in the soil and to rinse out salt build ups... if you use water that isnt ph'd the plant could lock out some of the nutes in the soil and not be able to use some of the nutes it has already absorbed... which would cause a slightly harsh smoke... now im in no way saying its as bad as if the plant hasnt gotten flushed at all.. im just saying, imho it ensures that all the nutes in the soil and the plant get used up.. plus it only take a few extra minutes to ph your water.. my water has a high ph as it is so i am just in the habit of always lowering the ph anyways... in the end it probably doesnt make enough of a difference to really matter tho...

I agree with the previous poster simpson. I make sure my water is within my desired PH range. It helps prevent nute lock out and also prevents any issues from fluctuating PH. If your not using nutes for 2 weeks and just watering it is important to make sure your wanter does not create any issues, and you plants continue to use the nutes it has stored.

The idea of flushing is to get back to square one.

Like the neutral corner in a boxing match. Your PH should be neutral.

CrackerJax said:

The idea of flushing is to get back to square one.

Like the neutral corner in a boxing match. Your PH should be neutral.

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thanks for all the input..

encouraged by the neutral comment cos its 7.3 out of the tap...so if i lower it to say 5, 50 litre tank, 10 litres a day for the ladies to drink...should be sorted for the week me thinks...


thanks again

000 said:

imo you dont need to worry coz as long as the water is nute free the flush should still be effective.as long as you dont plan to flush for 2weeks or a similar long time length you should be fine.


good luck and enjoy ya harvest

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but i always flush for 2 weeks...straight molasses...lovely smooth smoke

its perfectly fine to use molasses through the flush.. it does give your girl a little something to survive on through the week... nothing wrong with it at all...

bouncy bob said:

hi

just a quick question..

flushing the weekend for 2 weeks with molasses..my new auto watering system has let me down; i need to go away but can only top up 7.3ph tapwater..

is ph critical in the flushing process or will i get away with it??

any help gratefully recieved

Click to expand...

you do not have to ph to flush for harvest....

He never said he was harvesting.....

CrackerJax said:

He never said he was harvesting.....

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but isnt that the intent? flushing occurs with issues or prior to harvest..so its all relative


peace

simpsonsampson420 said:

i somewhat disagree.. the idea of flushing with plain water with no nutes is to allow the plant to use the rest of the nutes in the soil and to rinse out salt build ups... if you use water that isnt ph'd the plant could lock out some of the nutes in the soil and not be able to use some of the nutes it has already absorbed... which would cause a slightly harsh smoke... now im in no way saying its as bad as if the plant hasnt gotten flushed at all.. im just saying, imho it ensures that all the nutes in the soil and the plant get used up.. plus it only take a few extra minutes to ph your water.. my water has a high ph as it is so i am just in the habit of always lowering the ph anyways... in the end it probably doesnt make enough of a difference to really matter tho...

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PH does matter at least to me, even with plain water. Simpson said everything i had to say so i wont repeat but u do not want nute lock out that =bad news. PH even with plain water it takes 30secs. Peace

Plants are sensitive to PH, so if you flush it should be in the sweet zone.

J.Ruhland said:

PH does matter at least to me, even with plain water. Simpson said everything i had to say so i wont repeat but u do not want nute lock out that =bad news. PH even with plain water it takes 30secs. Peace

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always ph when mixing up nutes, and when you are just going to water or flush for plant problems, but when time to harvest no need to ph. your not going to lock them up during harvest flush..

mygirls said:

always ph when mixing up nutes, and when you are just going to water or flush for plant problems, but when time to harvest no need to ph. your not going to lock them up during harvest flush..

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thankyou for all the input...one other question...when im flushing is the temperature still critical cos been suffering with high temps...just ordered a new fan im hoping will do the trick but any suggestions otherwise? and yes flushing for 2 weeks before the chop....

Ahhh, you are harvesting... Okay, first, I think all this flushing is a bit over the top. I can see if you have overloaded your soil in the middle of a grow, but for a finish technique, I think it's overkill. A plant, any plant, will only UPTAKE the amount of nutes it needs, and leave the rest in the soil. Only if you have so concentrated the nutes in the soil will it be forced to take too much as it hydrates itself.
So, in the finishing up stage, the plant is hardly hydrating itself at all. It is finishing up.... dying.
I have flushed and not flushed, and I've never seen a difference between the two. Then again, I am not overloaded with fert near the end.

I think with all the flushing, temps won't be a big deal. use your fan, but outside of that, the plants will be largely unaffected. It's not growing at this stage.

CrackerJax said:

Ahhh, you are harvesting... Okay, first, I think all this flushing is a bit over the top. I can see if you have overloaded your soil in the middle of a grow, but for a finish technique, I think it's overkill. A plant, any plant, will only UPTAKE the amount of nutes it needs, and leave the rest in the soil. Only if you have so concentrated the nutes in the soil will it be forced to take too much as it hydrates itself.
So, in the finishing up stage, the plant is hardly hydrating itself at all. It is finishing up.... dying.
I have flushed and not flushed, and I've never seen a difference between the two. Then again, I am not overloaded with fert near the end.

I think with all the flushing, temps won't be a big deal. use your fan, but outside of that, the plants will be largely unaffected. It's not growing at this stage.

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yep what the cracker said... exactly

dont flush unless its to get salt build up out im new at growing and know that..just lower the feeding and let them use up what they got in the soil and leafs....

THE NEVER ENDING PARADE OF TOILETS HEADS!

Final flushing does nothing but remove nutrition from your plant at one of the most critical times!

Can you think of anything we humans consume that gets flushed or starved before harvest? NOPE! NONE, NADA, ZIP!

The point being is that a PROPER dry and cure IS what makes that "taste and burn" difference!

From a science aspect. Flushing removes NOTHING from the plant! Hydro, soil - what ever style you run,,,,flushing doesn't work!

As far as any "flush" (leeching) of soil's go (and I do mean SOIL). It's not the smartest way to handle an overage problem.

The thing here is that your pH is now most likely screwed by the build up anyway. Dumping x times the pot size in water through it to leech out your problem can and does cause other pH problems by keeping the soil to low in pH (most likely already is) and giving you the fast Ca, Mg and P lockout from it.

Over decades of soil growing. I found it the fastest and most efficient plant recovery from overage's to be to simply WATER them out with PLAIN water pHed to 6.7 for 7 - 10 days and restart feeding with a proper nutrient ratio or mix.
You may add a Ca/Mg if you are getting that Ca/Mg lockout from the screwed pH.
Once you have hit 7 days I personally like to water with a simple bio tea for putting back the soils bio's......Synthetic's don't KILL the bio's but they do spank them real hard. the use of a bio tea or some form of myco's are a real good idea with any soil run.

Good Luck and don't "flush"!