shadow030303
Active Member
plants are 33 days into flowering. is it to late to transplant to bigger pots?
root bound
- Thread starter shadow030303
- Start date
LUDACRIS
New Member
if they are rootbound do it.plants are 33 days into flowering. is it to late to transplant to bigger pots?
its never to late to transplant.
South Texas
Well-Known Member
LUDACRIS
New Member
thanks for the repp(returned).
i just cant stop riding(to many bikes) but i am helping where i can........L.O.L.
LUDACRIS.
LUDACRIS
New Member
you know perfectly well........L.O.L.
Root-bound is where the roots of your plant outgrow the container they are contained in.
The following symptoms may be observed if you allow your plants to become root-bound:
- Stunted Growth.
- Stretching.
- Smaller and slower bud production.
- Needs watering too often.
- Easy to burn with low % nutrient solution mixtures.
- Wilting.
Before you start, always run a transplanting trowel or a long, flexible knife (dedicated for gardening only) between the old pot and your plant's root-ball.
For a root-bound plant with a strong, woody stem: hold the stem firmly and lift up so the pot is off the ground. Tap down around the pot rim with a rubber hammer or piece of wood until the pot lets go.
Another way is to turn the plant and pot upside down, holding the plant so it won't crash on the ground when it comes free of the pot. Make sure there's enough clearance to the ground, or you'll smash your plant. (One way to do this: cut a cardboard disk the size of the pot opening, cut a slit to accommodate the plant stem and slip the disk over the top of the pot before turning the pot upside down). Have your friend or family member pull upward on the pot. If you're working alone, tap the rim down on the edge of a table or bench. You may have to do this all around the rim before the roots let go of the pot. (The plant may come free from the pot all at once, so hold on!)
Once you've freed the plant from its old pot, inspect its roots, if the roots run in a tight circle around the outside of the root ball, you got there just in time. Dig your fingers into the outside 1/2" of these circular roots, loosen the ends up and pull them gently outward. If the roots are very tight, cut two or three 1/2" incisions from top to bottom on the outside of the root-ball. (Space the cuts around the root-ball.) This process may seem cruel, but it gives the roots an opportunity to stop their circular growth habit and begin to grow outward.
If the roots are extremely tight, slice a thin layer off the outside of the entire root-ball. Set the root-ball into its new pot, hold the foliage out of the way and add soil. Do not forcefully pack this new soil as you want the soil to be settled (with no air pockets) but loose enough to allow root penetration. One way to achieve this is to water the new soil in layers as you add it and this is also a great time to add SUPERTHRIVE.
Do not cover the top of the root-ball with a thick layer of new soil; IMO the surface of the old root-ball should also be the surface in the new pot. Once your plant is settled into its new pot, clean the foliage as dust keeps light from reaching the leaves and makes the plant more susceptible to mites and other pests. Make sure all H.I.D lights are switched off and give your indoor plant a shower in lukewarm water or dust the leaves with a soft, damp cloth.
Outdoor plants can be sprayed with a garden hose or spray bottle. If the potting soil you used doesn't contain fertilizer and you didn't add a root stimulator/fertilizer solution, give the plant a light feeding of diluted fertilizer. It is important that your newly re-potted plant receives the right level of light, newly re-potted plants will suffer if placed directly under your H.I.D lights or in direct sunlight. It may take a up to 2 weeks for your plant to become accustomed to its new accommodations so until you begin to see signs of new growth use reduced levels of light.
- LUDACRIS.
UserFriendly
New Member
Don't be transplanting 33 daze into flower.
LUDACRIS
New Member
i am completely surprised/amazed that a plant that size is ok in that pot.
what size it the pot????????.
do you agree its ok to transplant flowering plants?????.
THANKS.
CRIS.
you know perfectly well........L.O.L.
Root-bound is where the roots of your plant outgrow the container they are contained in.
The following symptoms may be observed if you allow your plants to become root-bound:
Here are two ways to remove your plant:
- Stunted Growth.
- Stretching.
- Smaller and slower bud production.
- Needs watering too often.
- Easy to burn with low % nutrient solution mixtures.
- Wilting.
Before you start, always run a transplanting trowel or a long, flexible knife (dedicated for gardening only) between the old pot and your plant's root-ball.
For a root-bound plant with a strong, woody stem: hold the stem firmly and lift up so the pot is off the ground. Tap down around the pot rim with a rubber hammer or piece of wood until the pot lets go.
Another way is to turn the plant and pot upside down, holding the plant so it won't crash on the ground when it comes free of the pot. Make sure there's enough clearance to the ground, or you'll smash your plant. (One way to do this: cut a cardboard disk the size of the pot opening, cut a slit to accommodate the plant stem and slip the disk over the top of the pot before turning the pot upside down). Have your friend or family member pull upward on the pot. If you're working alone, tap the rim down on the edge of a table or bench. You may have to do this all around the rim before the roots let go of the pot. (The plant may come free from the pot all at once, so hold on!)
Once you've freed the plant from its old pot, inspect its roots, if the roots run in a tight circle around the outside of the root ball, you got there just in time. Dig your fingers into the outside 1/2" of these circular roots, loosen the ends up and pull them gently outward. If the roots are very tight, cut two or three 1/2" incisions from top to bottom on the outside of the root-ball. (Space the cuts around the root-ball.) This process may seem cruel, but it gives the roots an opportunity to stop their circular growth habit and begin to grow outward.
If the roots are extremely tight, slice a thin layer off the outside of the entire root-ball. Set the root-ball into its new pot, hold the foliage out of the way and add soil. Do not forcefully pack this new soil as you want the soil to be settled (with no air pockets) but loose enough to allow root penetration. One way to achieve this is to water the new soil in layers as you add it and this is also a great time to add SUPERTHRIVE.
Do not cover the top of the root-ball with a thick layer of new soil; IMO the surface of the old root-ball should also be the surface in the new pot. Once your plant is settled into its new pot, clean the foliage as dust keeps light from reaching the leaves and makes the plant more susceptible to mites and other pests. Make sure all H.I.D lights are switched off and give your indoor plant a shower in lukewarm water or dust the leaves with a soft, damp cloth.
Outdoor plants can be sprayed with a garden hose or spray bottle. If the potting soil you used doesn't contain fertilizer and you didn't add a root stimulator/fertilizer solution, give the plant a light feeding of diluted fertilizer. It is important that your newly re-potted plant receives the right level of light, newly re-potted plants will suffer if placed directly under your H.I.D lights or in direct sunlight. It may take a up to 2 weeks for your plant to become accustomed to its new accommodations so until you begin to see signs of new growth use reduced levels of light.
- LUDACRIS.
no i do NOT know. look again at the picture. it IS real. now tell me "what is rootbound"?
these are all different plants and each produced well over a pound of dried buds. in those little pots.
do they look "stunted"?
do they look "stretched"?
do they look "small"?
do they look "watered too often" or not?
do they look "burnt"?
do they look "wilted"?
you can read a "definition" out of a book, but it still doesn't SHOW me what rootbound is.
at day 33 of flowering i'd say most of your plants energy is focused on producing flowers. if you were to transplant i don't think much effort would be used for new root production. the stress would hamper your cycle, as well.plants are 33 days into flowering. is it to late to transplant to bigger pots?
Resident Kush
Well-Known Member
some of you guys are missing a chromosome ..
you dont transplant in flower at any time, but after a few weeks of flower the roots are done growing, absolutely no point in transplanting.
Root bound ... you can grow a four foot plant in a shot glass, still think your plant is bound ?? you can literally take the roots out the pot and beat someone to death with a root bound plant. If even the smallest dirt scratches off, its far from bound.
you dont transplant in flower at any time, but after a few weeks of flower the roots are done growing, absolutely no point in transplanting.
Root bound ... you can grow a four foot plant in a shot glass, still think your plant is bound ?? you can literally take the roots out the pot and beat someone to death with a root bound plant. If even the smallest dirt scratches off, its far from bound.
UserFriendly
New Member
What size containers are those FDD?
shadow030303
Active Member
the plants are in 8 inch pots and are about 18 inches tall. i water every other day,they seem to be doing ok
but just wondering if i transplant now will the yeild be bigger
but just wondering if i transplant now will the yeild be bigger
shadow030303
Active Member
by the way thanks for all the help to everyone
about 4 gallons. maybe 5 max.
i kept them in smaller pots trying to keep them small. shot that theory all to hell. i have yet to see a plant negatively affected by so called "rootboundedness".
about a half inch layer of root "padding" ...........
then the gravel at the bottom of the pot ..................
knocked the dirt loose ....................
rinsed it off with the hose ..................
LUDACRIS
New Member
the plants look exellent but what i said was that i was surprised/amazed that the plants that size in small pots cant be root bound.no i do NOT know. look again at the picture. it IS real. now tell me "what is rootbound"?
these are all different plants and each produced well over a pound of dried buds. in those little pots.
View attachment 375716 View attachment 375717 View attachment 375718 View attachment 375719
do they look "stunted"?
do they look "stretched"?
do they look "small"?
do they look "watered too often" or not?
do they look "burnt"?
do they look "wilted"?
you can read a "definition" out of a book, but it still doesn't SHOW me what rootbound is.
now i am really confused.
and yes the pics are real i dont doubt it for a second.
but is it ok to transplant in full flower???????.
THANKS.
CRIS.
a rootbound plant pic.
Attachments
Resident Kush
Well-Known Member
you should really check the roots once a week, once the soil seperates from the pot, you can just pull em out, look at the roots make sure everythings good, I wouldnt worry about rootbound, like the people in the know stated, rootbound is B.S.
LUDACRIS
New Member
so the theory everyone seems to say that you should allow a gallon of soil per 12" of plant is also bullshit????????.
Silky Shagsalot
Well-Known Member
i sometimes x-plant in early flower. i wouldn't do it in day 33, no point. as far as being root-bound goes, it doesn't mean your plant is gonna shrivel up and die. sog growers keep their plants "root-bound," and do just fine. keeping the root-mass small is a choice, imo. in a confined grow area you don't want your plants taking off. as long as your plants environment is correct, and all of it's nutritional needs are met, there's no problem with restricting the root-mass.