General Marijuana Growing
how 2 make hash ?? in the
The Grow Room forums; can any 1 tell me the best way 2 make hash with my trimmings ive read lots about this just ...
how 2 make hash ??
can any 1 tell me the best way 2 make hash with my trimmings ive read lots about this just havent did it yet , lookin a fast an easy way an wastin no thc an the cheap way is always good 2 ty
"my name is not mark its barry but people call me steve "
HASH IS A COMPRESSED FORM OF herb, but it isn't just compressed bud. In fact, contrary to what many people think, compressed bud has nothing to do with how to make hash.
Earlier in this book, we discussed capitates trichomes and how these tiny stalked resin glands contain cannabinoids — the major compounds produced by the herb plant, which include the THC. THC is found in the male marijuana leaf, but the female produces THC in her leaves, trichomes and calyx. THC is rarely extracted from the male marijuana leaf because it is contained inside the herb leaf but since the resin glands can be wiped from the female plant it is much easier to perform THC extraction from a female. The gland heads, or rounded tips of the trichomes, secrete the major cannabinoids in an oil-like substance, often referred to as resin, in order to gather fallen pollen from the male plant. This resin can be removed by rubbing your fingers over the bud.
The stalks that support the gland heads are second to the gland heads in the amount of cannabinoids produced. Under certain conditions, the glands and stalks can burst. In the case of a strain like Afghani that is thick with resin, this explosive action of the gland is automatic. Strains that are prone to bursting their trichomes form ball-shaped pistil clusters rather than the usual straight or curled pistil shapes. These ball-shaped clusters are a good indication that a strain is a suitable candidate for resin extraction.
GATHERING THE STALKED CAPITATE TRICHOMES
Hash is made primarily from the collection of the stalked capitates trichomes. When the collected trichomes are compressed, they form the blocky mass that is referred to as hashish. There are many ways to do this, ranging from bulk hash production to rolling small finger-size quantities. Each method produces a different quality or grade of hashish. Some methods gather only the trichomes, while other methods gather trichomes and other subsidiary elements like herb leaf particles and branch shavings.
Water extraction is the best way to achieve trichomes-only extraction. We won't discuss older methods used for mass production, as these are somewhat substandard to the home methods mentioned below. The quality of your hashish is determined to a large degree by the genetics you started with in the first place. If you used plants that weren't very potent, don't expect to produce very potent hash.
When you harvest your bud you will have trimmed the leaves away from the bud. This trim is referred to as skuff. Skuff should be sticky; so whether it's on the stem, branch, herb leaf or bud; if it feels sticky then you can use it to extract the resin. If you really want to be a connoisseur, then you should examine your skuff for trichomes with a microscope. If none of the skuff parts have trichomes, discard them. You must take the remaining skuff and store this for 3 to 6 weeks, in much the same way as you would canned bud, before using the basic and advanced extraction methods detailed below.
BASIC METHODS Flat Silk Screening
Screening is a process much like grating cheese, but on a far finer level. A silk screen is stretched across a square wooden frame and nailed tightly to it. The screen typically has a pore size of between 120 and 180 microns. The smaller the microns, the higher the quality, but the less you will produce. Larger micron pores will result in larger sieved amounts but will allow some marijuana leaf matter and branch trim to drop through, degrading the quality of hash you smoke. Typical street hash is not nearly as fine or high in quality as the large pore screening method.
Here's how it's done: The bud is placed over the screen and can either be dragged across the screen manually or using a roller. Manual screening is much easier if you're using smaller quantities of bud, but for large quantities you should consider another method, like automatic tumbling in a drum machine. A sheet of glass placed under the screen is the best way to catch the matter that falls through. After the screening process is complete, the screen can be patted down to shake off any powder that sticks in the pores.
Flat Metal Screening
This is done much like the flat silk screening method but before the flat silk is used, the bud is subjected to a grating process. The grate is usually made from tough nylon or stainless steel and is of equal proportion in pore size to the silk screen. By first using the metal grate, you can remove more matter from the bud than the single silk screen would. The bud matter that passes through the metal screen can then be sieved through the silk screen by shaking the screen back and forth over a glass surface. You end up with two grades of sieved bud residue this way.
Multiple Screening Method
This is a refined version of the above two methods. Any number of screens can be used in this method but the average is four or five. Each screen running from start to finish should have a different micron measurement starting from the largest and running down to the smallest silk screen. The bud matter is sieved through the first screen, then down onto the second screen. The process is repeated with each new screen until most of the matter has passed through. You should end up with several screens that contain bud matter running down to the finer trichomes on the last screen. This is an excellent way to achieve the best results. You end up with several screens each containing different qualities of herb residue.
Now that you have an idea of what screening is about, we can look at it in closer detail. The following advanced technique can be applied to all of the above screening methods.
We stated that a metal or nylon screen could be used first, followed by a silk screen. Nowadays steel fabrics can be bought in sizes that have much smaller pores than even the finest silk screen. You should typically look for a metal or nylon screen that ranges somewhere between 100 to 140 lines per inch. The screen most commonly used by home hash makers has 120 lines per inch. A wooden frame is constructed to hold the screen in place and can be glued or nailed into position.
Take four small wooden blocks and place them over a sheet of glass or a mirror.
Place the screen over the blocks, leaving a gap of an inch between the mirror and the screen. Place a small amount of skuff on the screen and gently role it back and forth across the screen using a credit card or similar object. Do this very gently, over and back, over and back and over and back with very little pressure. You may have to push the skuff as many as a hundred times before you can see the tiny resin glands gather on the mirror below.
Once you have collected as many resin glands as possible, use the card to sweep them off the mirror and onto another surface. Take the used skuff and, this time; apply a bit more pressure as you roll it back and forth across the screen. With this little bit of extra force you'll be able to remove any resin glands that didn't fall through the first time, but you may also push through some material, such as branch shavings and herb leaf particles. This second round of pressing will result in a lower quality grade of skuff.
Skuff is skuff; from the time you cure your trim to the point where you sieve it through, it is still skuff. Your objective is to try and collect as much resin from the skuff as possible. You won't end up with hash, but you will end up with different grades of skuff that can be used to make hash later.
You can smoke the different grades of skuff there and then, but you may notice that it's hard to do so. Since this powder is so fine, it will easily fall from a joint or pass through the pores of a pipe screen. In order to solve this problem you must compress the skuff into hashish. This is covered later in the Chapter, after we've outlined three other advanced extraction techniques.
A drum machine is an automatic screening device. You will probably have to build one yourself, but this is easy enough to do with the right materials. The size of the unit depends on how much herb you wish to sieve at a time. Most drum machines have a 1.5- to 2-foot diameter.
The screen is placed in between the two wooden cylinders and the herb trim is placed inside this screen. A small motor attached to the side rotates the drum. As it slowly rotates (at a rate of about two rotations per minute), the trichomes drop through the sieve onto the surface stand between the legs of the drum. A simple mirror or sheet of glass is used to catch the skuff. You can keep the tumbler rotating for up to one hour to get the most from your skuff without applying any pressure.
If you want to apply more pressure, simply place a small wooden ball (or anything that is slightly heavy with a smooth, rounded surface) inside the barrel of the drum. As the drum rotates, the object inside will add a little more pressure to the skuff as it comes in contact with the screen. Different sized screens can be used to extract different qualities of skuff.
BASIC WATER EXTRACTION
Resin glands can be removed from the herb plant by agitating the trim in cold water — typically ice cold water or water that has been chilled in a fridge overnight. The trim is placed in a bucket, which is then filled with cold water. The water and trim are swirled and mixed with a wooden spoon or an electric whisk. Let the mixture sit for a few minutes before scooping out the skuff floating on the surface. The remaining liquid is strained through a coffee sieve to collect most of the trichomes, as they won't pass through with the water. Let the coffee sieve dry and you've got excellent grade trichomes extract to use to make hash (how to make hash the right way). The basic idea behind this is that cold water breaks the glands away from the marijuana leaf matter. The glands eventually sink to the bottom of the bucket because they are heavier than water. The bulk herb leaf matter should stay afloat and can be easily scooped away.
ADVANCED WATER EXTRACTION
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SUPERCRITICAL FLUID EXTRACTION
The ultimate way of making high quality hash oil with butane.
Solvents can also be used to extract raw herb oil from harvested herb flowers. Raw herb oil contains:
• Psychoactive cannabinoids in high percentages
• Plant tissue in low percentages
• Chlorophyll in low percentages
• Trace elements in low percentages (non-psychoactive water soluble matter)
Raw herb oil is best extracted from highly resinous strains like the Afghani herb plant. Strains that have a semi-dry or dry floral trait should not be considered candidates for herb oil extraction because the amount of oil extracted does not necessarily justify the procedure, although the end material is a very high-grade form of hash oil. With these dry strains you may have to perform the extraction process several times before a substantial amount of psychoactive oil is produced. Like any other cannabinoid extraction process, you are better off using a resinous strain to rationalize the end results.
Isopropyl, ethanol and acetone used to be popular solvents for hash oil extraction but the process for each one is time consuming, costly and material-intensive. They often result in smaller amounts of lower grade than you hoped for. There is a much easier and more affordable way to enjoy a purer form of herb oil. The process known as butane extraction produces better results in a much shorter time frame.
Butane extraction is the most popular form of raw hash oil extraction because it is based on an industrial process known as SFE (supercritical fluid extraction) and is very easy to perform. You should only use butane fuels that are recommended for flameless lighters (jet torch will also do). These types of butane are much cleaner and extract raw hash oil better than other butane fuel types that you commonly find at the drugstore or fuel depot. A good tobacconist shop should stock flameless lighter butane.
Butane is a very good solvent for hash oil extraction because it separates herb oils from most other useless plant/bud matter. This type of filtered oil is sometimes nicknamed ^Hash Honey Oil' because the results are like an amber honey. SFE can produce very fine and pure herb oil from resinous strains. It simply separates herb oils from plant tissue, chlorophyll and the other trace elements that we find in most raw hash oils. You can imagine the final weight of the butane extracted oil to be the equivalent of the total weight of anything sticky or oily on the plant separated from the rest of it.
Once you have obtained the butane, you need a pipe that measures 1.5 to 2.0 inches in diameter, is 16 to 24 inch long and is made from either polypropylene (PP) or polyethylene (PE). Basically, the bigger the pipe, the more bud it can hold. Do not use PVC piping because it can be a health hazard. Either PP or PE piping works best and can be found in any good DIY store. Each end of the pipe will need a cap. You should be able to get some PP or PE caps at a home improvement store or someone can make them for you. If you cannot find any suitable caps, you can try using large bottle caps and 'blue tack’ to hold them in place.
You need a stand to hold this pipe. A lab stand is perfect for the job but anything that will hold the pipe up off the ground is fine. You also need a filter. An extremely fine cloth filter, like a bandage wrap with pores or fine pipe gauze, will work well. Any filter that will allow oil to drop through but leave the plant matter in the pipe is ideal. Coffee filters will not work very well unless they have a large pore size. You also need a clear plastic measuring cup, a clean wooden stick (like a medical tongue depressor) and some nicely manicured bud. You should be able to use 1 oz or more of bud in the above pipe design.
In the diagram below you can see the parts in alignment without the stand. The parts are as follows: 1) Butane canister, 2) Top cap with hole for canister, 3) Tube for holding the bud, 4) Filter, 5) Bottom cap with perforations, 6) Cup to catch the oil and butane.
The whole unit should snap into place as follows.
NOTE: Butane is a fuel and will combust when ignited by anything like a spark. If you do not have a professional SFE unit with the proper ventilation, then use butane SFE extraction carefully, outdoors, away from any buildings and other people. Avoid inhaling butane or the exhaust from butane extraction by wearing a facemask.
1. Drill a hole in the end of the first cap that allows the nozzle of the butane canister to fit neatly into it.
2. Drill six small holes near the center of the second cap.
3. Place the filter in this second cap.
4. Attach the second cap to the pipe.
HOW TO MAKE HASH
5. Fill up the pipe extremely loosely (never cram it in) with finely ground bud.
6. Attach the first, or top, cap to the pipe.
7. Mount your pipe on your stand and place it over your clean measuring cup.
8. Open the butane can and turn it upside down placing the nozzle in the top cap. Fill the pipe up slowly, allowing the butane to draw the oils down through the tube.
9. Remove the butane canister when its weight stops decreasing (meaning it is empty) and move a safe distance away.
10. Wait fifteen to twenty minutes before approaching the apparatus even if the top cap has given up any viable signs of fume release. The butane should have evaporated away, leaving an oil/butane mixture in the cup.
11. Open the top cap to allow all fumes to escape. Butane will still be active in the cup and bud in the pipe so leave these two alone for another twenty minutes. The remaining oil in the cup is raw hash oil with some butane.
12. Any remaining butane can be evaporated by placing the cup into a dish of hot water.
13. You now have made raw hash oil. It should be ready to smoke in a few hours.
Tips for butane extraction
I have heard of numerous SFE accidents caused with butane. All of them happened the same way. Most SFE butane extraction accidents occur when the pipe is full of bud and butane is dripping down into the cup below. Any flame, spark or ignition will cause that butane to become unstable. Almost all of the accidents I have heard about occurred because a flame or spark ignited the butane. In most cases it was a smoker who caused this. Do not smoke when you are performing SFE with butane, period. If you can do that then butane extraction is actually one of safest methods of hash oil extraction available to the home grower.
During the SFE process the butane must be left alone to drain down into the plastic cup along with the raw hash oils that it collects on the way down. Vapor and fumes will come out through the top of the cap and the cup.
After about fifteen minutes, most of the butane will have passed through. There may be some remaining butane/oil extract near the filter and end cap but forcing this through (by blowing, tapping or pushing) into the tube may add unwanted matter to your extract. A brief shake is all that is needed to help the remainder into the cup. Use the wooden stick to wipe away any oil/butane mixture from the base of the filter. This butane/oil extract in the pipe and cup is still part of the SFE process and the butane will continue to evaporate.
Butane has a low boiling point (even evaporates at room temperature) and if you need to boil off any excess butane in the cup simply place the cup into a bowl of hot water (not boiling!) and watch the butane evaporate. This is why butane extraction is best done outdoors. Butane will eventually evaporate into the atmosphere instead of into your home where it can become a fire hazard. You should eventually be left with an amber-colored substance in the cup. This is your high-grade hash oil!
The butane should be completely evaporated by heating the cup of raw hash oil/butane in hot water. Your high-grade hash oil is sticky to touch and best smoked in small quantities because of its quality. Oil is best enjoyed by placing a small glob of oil on some foil and heating the foil lightly from beneath, causing the oil to boil and vaporize. This vapor should be then consumed using a Pyrex straw (plastic straws burn and inhaling burning plastic is not good). As a note: herb oil is an excellent format for medicinal use because it is very pure. By vaporizing herb oil, the user can enjoy a pure form of herb without carbon monoxide.
Here are some other tips for butane extraction:
• After you remove the hash oil from the cup you can use some isopropyl (90 percent minimum content) to collect any residual oil that may by still in the cup. Add a small amount of isopropyl to your cup and swirl it around. Heat the cup at a very low heat (less than 200 degrees to avoid THC evaporation) to evaporate the isopropyl, leaving the remaining hash oil collected from the rim of the cup.
• You can perform a second extraction using the same procedure with the used bud to remove any excess oil that is still left in the bud. The bud should be mostly devoid of any cannabinoid compounds and should be disposed of.
• A slow release of butane into the pipe allows sufficient time for the SFE to take place, improving the quality of the process and the final amount. Try not to force all your butane in too quickly.
• The butane you use must be as pure as possible. Bottled butane is usually mixed with chemicals so that when it leaks you smell it. These chemicals can interfere with the butane/herb SFE process.
• Use a bud grinder to make sure that your bud is powered down as much as possible. The finer the mix the better the extraction results.
• You should be able to get between 5 and 10 grams of hash oil for every 1 oz of good quality resinous bud that you use.
• You can also process leaf or trim using butane SFE. You can expect about 0.5 to 2 grams of hash oil for every 1 oz of trim used. This depends on the quality of the trim.
PRESSING RESIN INTO HASH
Again, the quality of the resin glands will determine the quality of hash that you will smoke. In the first chapter we talked about Zero. Recall that hashish can be graded, based on quality, from high (00) to low (3). This is calculated based on a simple ratio of cannabinoids to vegetable material. Good quality hashish has a high ratio of cannabinoids to vegetable material. In Morocco, 00 is used to describe hash that has the highest level of cannabinoids to vegetable material achieved by the extraction process. You can well imagine that this is the finest resin available compressed into hashish. You may be pleased to know that compressing hashish is simple.
Take your extracted resin glands and put it into a cellophane bag. Fold it into a flat block shape and tape the ends of the cellophane to create the package. Try to create the best flat block you can by pressing it with your hands to make it more even. Using a pin, make a few holes on both sides of the bag. One hole per square inch is a good measurement to go by.
Get two or three newspaper pages and dampen them down with a clean cloth that has just been rinsed. Don't saturate or break the paper, just dampen it. Set an iron to low heat and place the newspaper over the cellophane bag. Hold the iron over the paper and press it down with medium pressure for about fifteen seconds. Turn the bag over and place the newspaper on top again. Dampen the paper again, as needed. Repeal the pressure for the same amount of lime. You should only have to do this once or twice per side.
Let the bag cool for five minutes and remove the cellophane. You should have a nice block of hash. In addition, your hash will be of a much better quality than the street hash you find on the market. Street hash tends to be made from the less fine skuff material in order to make more blocks of hash. If you smoke homemade hash then you'll probably understand why 90 percent of street hash is sold at rip-off prices. Those big ounce chunks probably only contain 10 percent of the good stuff, if any at all!
This technique of screening and pressing is used to make hash in many countries. As you can imagine, in order to produce bulk amounts you would need to use a lot of skuff in conjunction with numerous drum machines working around the clock. If you harvest more than ten plants then it is worth using one of two to make a nice chunk of hash or some oil for yourself. Since good homemade hash is devoid of marijuana leaf matter and other foreign elements it is a very pure smoke which guarantees a hit every time. herb connoisseurs regard homemade hash as one of the best ways of getting the 'best' from the plant. Treat yourself to a little homemade hash at harvest time if you can. It is well worth the experience and who knows, you may just decide to produce a load of homemade hash instead of bud! Give it a whirl — you should be pleased with the results.
hope this helps.
i've read that before.... what's it from kp?
this is from greg green's cannabis grow bible.
sorry, meant to add that at the beginning....
ty princess read it all while i finished this joint an by the time i finished the J i 4 got what i read at the start lol very good info will read it again a few times think i will use half the silk screen an the other butane gas way
"my name is not mark its barry but people call me steve "
sounds good mark! keep us updated!
I'm pretty sure there are vids showing you how to on YouTube
"When the stress burns my brain, just like acid rain-drops, Mary-Jane is the only thing that makes the pain stop" - P.U.T.S
yea think ive watched every 1 of them i think the more info the better on this 1 4 me. ive my own trimmings an my m8s doing a bit of a larger grow but dont smoke so i,ll hav all his trimmins 2 will keep u up dated princess still a few weeks 4 harvest tho ty
"my name is not mark its barry but people call me steve "
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