Hey guys, this is the first of the SOGG Groups daily posts for members but to be enjoyed by all . Check out the group in my signature, hoping to get one of the most active, passionate groups going strong. Already have many great members and an active forum. Organics . Thanks everyone, enjoy


Perlite
Perlite is an amorphous volcanic glass that has relatively high water content. In horticultural applications it makes composts and soils more open to air, while still possessing good water retention properties. Perlite is commonly used in hydroponics for this very reason. Because it is neutral in pH, sterile, and light weight it is very practical for container growing and indoor growing. Perlite can be a staple in soil or soil/less mediums mainly due to its superior aeration.

The elemental properties of perlite are as follows:

* All analyses are shown in elemental form even though the actual forms present are mixed glassy silicates. Free silica may be present in small amounts, characteristic of the particular ore body. More specific information may be obtained from the ore supplier involved.

Some common uses for Perlite include:
Seed Raising
- Perlite encourages quicker germination, improved seedling growth
- Sow on a well watered mixture of equal parts perlite and sphagnum moss peat or add 1 part perlite to 2 parts of ready-mixed potting compost
- Perlite may also be used 100% provided that it is kept wet at all times by capillary irrigation or an intermittent mist. Sprinkle fine peat over the seeds, and cover with glass or plastic to retain moisture until the seeds have germinated

Potting Compost
- Perlite is held wholly or partly in place or sand or grit in potting compost where it improves aeration, draining and insulation, and also facilitates rewetting. Perlite can be used to open up peat-based or ready-mixed loam compost.
- For soil/less composts mix 3 – 4 parts of sphagnum moss peat with 1 part of perlite (roughly 80/20).
- For loam based compost, mix equal parts of sterilized loam, peat and perlite (1:1:1 ratio) plus limestone and nutrients. You could also use a 1:2:1 mix. Mix thoroughly, then water well after planting, and feed as appropriate.


Vermiculite
Vermiculite has many of the same traits as perlite and has been used in various industries for over 80 years. It is used in the construction, agricultural, horticultural, and industrial markets. Vermiculite is the mineralogical name given to hydrated laminar magnesium-aluminum-iron silicate which resembles mica in appearance. Vermiculite mines are surface operations where ore is separated from other minerals, and then screened or classified into several basic particle sizes. When subjected to heat vermiculite has the unusual property of exfoliating or expanding into worm-like pieces (the name vermiculite is derived from the Latin 'vermiculare' - to breed worms). This characteristic of exfoliation, the basis for commercial use of the mineral, is the result of the mechanical separation of the layers by the rapid conversion of contained water to steam.

The elemental properties of Vermiculite are as follows:

* All analyses are shown in elemental form even though the actual forms present are mixed glassy silicates. Free silica may be present in small amounts, characteristic of the particular ore body. More specific information may be obtained from the ore supplier involved.

Potting mixes with Vermiculite
- Vermiculite in potting compost gives a very light open compost, holding more water and facilitating re-wetting, thereby lengthening the time between watering. Vermiculite also has excellent ion exchange properties which absorb excess nutrients and release them slowly to the plants via the finest root hairs.
- A 50/50 mix of vermiculite and sphagnum moss peat is widely used for greenhouse pot plants and hanging baskets, while a 25/75 mix is generally suitable for bedding plants, nursery stock, etc.
- To improve an existing compost add 20-25% by volume of Vermiculite and mix thoroughly

Peat Moss
Sphagnum is a genus of between 151-350 species of mosses commonly called peat moss, due to its prevalence in peat bogs and mires. A distinction is made between sphagnum moss, the live part growing on top of a peat bog, and sphagnum peat moss, the decaying matter underneath. Bogs are dependent on precipitation as their main source of food and nutrients, thus making them a favorable habitat for sphagnum as it can retain water and air quite well. Members of this genus can hold large quantities of water inside their cells; some species can hold up to 20 times their dry weight in water, which is why peat moss is commonly sold as a soil amendment. The empty cells help retain water in drier conditions. In wetter conditions, the spaces contain air and help the moss float for photosynthetic purposes. Sphagnum and the peat formed from it do not decay readily because of the phenolic compounds embedded in the moss's cell walls. An additional reason is that the bogs in which Sphagnum grows are submerged, deoxygenated, and favor slower anaerobic decay rather than aerobic microbial action. Peat moss can also acidify its surroundings by taking up cations such as calcium and magnesium and releasing hydrogen ions.

Decayed, compacted Sphagnum moss has the name of peat moss. Peat moss can be used as a soil additive which increases the soil's capacity to hold water and nutrients by increasing capillary forces and cation exchange capacity (CEC). This is often necessary when dealing with very sandy soil, or plants that need an increased moisture content to flourish. One such group of plants are the carnivorous plants, often found in wetlands bogs for example). Dried Sphagnum moss is also used in northern Arctic regions as an insulating material. Peat moss is also a critical element for growing mushrooms; mycelium grows in compost with a layer of peat moss on top, through which the mushrooms come out, a process called pinning.

Humus
Humus is vital to the growth and health of plants. It brings about balance to the soil and thereby promotes a much healthier plant by increasing the metabolism of a plant’s root system. Vigorous plants are better able to fight off disease and insects. Humus delivers what we gardeners really want: higher yields and better quality flowers, vegetables and fruits. Humus is the result of the decomposition of animal and vegetable matter through the action of bacteria. The decomposition process by microorganisms in the soil creates two acids, Humic and Fulvic acids. Humic acids are large molecules that play a major role in maintaining good soil structure and have a great capacity to retain and exchange nutrients. Fulvic acids consist of molecules smaller than those of humic acids and form soluble metals with soil nutrients, thus move vital nutrients from the soil to the plant. Humus also contains several horticulture nutrients: organic calcium, organic nitrogen, bagasses extract, potassium hydroxide, biuret urea and phosphoric acid.

Humus vs Chemical Fertilizers
Humus has a number of unique properties that differentiates it from chemical fertilizers
- Reduces the amount of chemical fertilizers needed by plants.
- Improves soil structure by increasing its permeability, permitting greater aeration and porosity.
- Increases the capacity of retaining and exchanging nutrients.
- Increases the cellular activity, stimulating balanced growth of plants by improved germination of seeds, greater root development, higher chlorophyll content, and higher vitamin content.
- Increases permeability of the cellular membranes resulting in higher absorption of nutrients through both roots and leaves.
- Encourages the development of beneficial soil microorganisms.
- Unlocks the nutrients in the soil so that they can be assimilated by the plant.
- Stabilizes pH.

Stay tuned for Part 2 everyone, happy growing

KC

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~ Embassador of Organics & Nature ~ RIU Soil/Organic Growers Guild SLGG Thread Link - Vermicompost Up Now!! SLGG Support Thread *Strain Test Pilot* ~Organic Remedies~

Composting: The Beauty of Recycling

By: KushCanuck

Introduction to Composting


The basic ideal behind composting is to turn fertile soil and excesses into a horticultural humus which can be used as excellent organic fertilizer. By feeding your plants organic materials such as compost will result in healthier plants, and most overlooked, happy soil. Depending on the ingredients added into the compost, the grower can manipulate their compost pile to benefit the needs of their garden. There are a few things to keep in mind when adding to your compost pile if you’re looking to optimize your eventual nutrients.

First of all, C/N ratio (Carbon to Nitrogen ratio) is very important in maximizing the potential of your compost pile, an ideal ratio would be 25-30:1. This is done usually by adding two parts significant Carbon contributors with one part Nitrogen dominate substance. I will post a list later of each, but by doing some basic math, you can equate your mix to get it within 25-30:1.
Secondly, there are two methods in which to process your compost: Active and Passive methods.
1) Active
Hot thermophilic composting is essential with some materials to kill pathogens. This method is not recommended for indoors as it has the tendency to get smelly (however, a system such as the composter diagram could easily be adapted into a grow room with no negative repercussions). These piles can work well if you’re looking for a way to positively use that hot HID air, as the primary aspect of this process is active airflow from fan pushing air and intermittent mist through your pile. The compost should maintain a 50% moisture level or similar to that of a sponge. An ideal temperature for an active compost pile is roughly 60 degrees F for a minimum for 3 weeks. The natural sequence of the decomposition community involved will be:

~ 0-15°C (32-59°F) - psychrophiles
~ 15-40°C (60-104°F) - mesophiles take over, psychrophiles die off or are relegated to the borders
~ 40-70°C (105-160°F) - thermophiles

predominate, beginning the heating process as they multiply work at their peak, including consuming many other bacteria
At the lower temperatures and around the borders, there will also be various fungal activity as well as larger organisms getting their share. A very dry, cooler pile may be attractive to ants, and gastropods (like slugs) may visit very wet piles. As the temperature returns to ambient at the end of the process, the sequence reverses, including new organisms that prefer the more degraded materials. Added heat and pile insulation may be useful in the coldest weather, but is not ordinarily necessary, and is not desirable if it interferes with aeration or natural convective evaporation. Usually keeping the top dry and burying fresh additions in the center of a pile will be effective during winter conditions until heating resumes in spring.

2)Passive
Cool or ambient temperature composting, when the level of physical intervention is minimal, usually results in temperatures never reaching above 30°C (86°F). It is slower but effective, and is the more common type of composting in domestic gardening. Such composting systems may be in open or closed containers of wood or plastic, or in open exposed piles. Kitchen scraps are put in the garden compost bin and left untended.

This scrap bin can have a very high water content, which reduces aeration, and may become odorous. To improve drainage and airflow, and reduce odour, wood chips, shredded bark, leaves, or twigs may be added to mix and cover each wet addition. The pile should be mixed 3-4 times weekly and just enough to mix the compost for aeration. Always add new supplements to the interior of your compost for better decomposition. The amount of attention may vary from none through occasional to "regular".

Additives and Specifications

The general rule of thumb is that green clippings (grass, weeds, fruit and vegetable scraps, etc.) tend to carry higher Nitrogen amounts, whereas brown or darker vegetation tends to be higher in Carbon. Here is a basic list of items that can be used in compost piles, compiled with C/N ratios for your convenience:

Alfalfa Hay
Food Scraps (table scraps)
Grass Clippings (no herbicides used)
Rotted Manure
Legume-Grass Hay
Leaves (houseplants, cannabis for me J)
Straw
Paper (shredded, slow release)
Sawdust

I’m currently still working out a complete comprehensive list of 50 – 100 organic compounds that can be mixed into composts to benefit soil and root growth and development, I’ll get there soon .

Making Your Compost Pile

A general guideline is to use 1/3 green material and 2/3 of dry material. Form a heap by alternating 4- to 6-inch layers of dry carbon materials with 2- to 3-inch layers of green nitrogen material or animal manure. Add a layer of your soil for each layer of compost material and give each layer of soil a thorough misting to make sure it’s damp. You cannot have decomposition without moisture! The air and moisture is the key to composting so it is important that air be added to the heap by regularly turning and mixing the materials. The first turning should be three or four days after the heap is formed, and subsequent turnings once a week. Use a spade (or like me, your hands) to fluff and mix the ingredients. Large heaps can be turned by removing the top layer and using it as the base for a new heap. As ingredients are moved from one heap to the new one, air is incorporated.
Failure of the heap to heat up in a few days indicates the decay process has not started. Add more nitrogen materials and be sure that the heap is sufficiently moist, a great nitrogen material for supplementing is coffee grounds. They tend to carry a 2.3-2.3-0.2-0.3 N-P-K ratio and they work great to initiate decay once they are warmed to 300 degrees C in the oven for 10 minutes. Compost that smells strongly of ammonia or is slimy requires more frequent turnings and the addition of high carbon materials. How soon compost is "finished" will depend on the size and balance of the ingredients used, the air temperature, and how fast decomposition was encouraged by keeping the heap moist and turning it regularly.


My compost pile goes as follows:
Organic potting soil
Cannabis leaves (Green and Brown)
Alfalfa Hay
Worm Castings
Bat Guano
Baked Coffee Grinds
This compost recipe makes me about 30L which is nearly 8 Gallons if my math is right, I’m stoned though … That’s about enough to feed an entire cycle of plants from seed to harvest for me (6-8 plant cycles). I’m sorry about the weird units of measurement but that’s how I know how to equate them easiest without getting crazy with math. The whole process takes me about 4-6 months with 2 alternating compost piles to ensure rapid burning with constant fresh nitrogen

Building Your Compost Pile
I have included a diagram of what my compost essentially looks like and what it includes (pardon my lack of skills in paint, I wish I was back in third grade and could focus on that ). I’ve broken down a compost recipe above to display the brown portion, the rest is pretty self explanatory. I place 1 Gallon pots below my runoff tray to catch and preserve the nutrient rich runoff. The whole system (both containers side by side) cost me collectively $12.00 CDN at Home Depot. The cheapest, most effective nutrients one can get is right under your noses, be thrifty everyone, more times than not your organics can be resused for good.
Thanks for bearing with me through the thread, I hope to see more compost operations starting up shortly and lots of beautiful organic beauties. Happy growing everyone

KC

Attached Images

Compost Layout.jpg (25.6 KB, 35 views)

__________________
~ Embassador of Organics & Nature ~ RIU Soil/Organic Growers Guild SLGG Thread Link - Vermicompost Up Now!! SLGG Support Thread *Strain Test Pilot* ~Organic Remedies~

Very nice KC, I am hopeful everyone reads this... It would go a long way in helping people understand the "relationship" their plants have with their medium.

As the medium thrives, so shall the plant.

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"As the garden grows so does the gardener."

Agreed . The next update will be Vermicomposting, should be informative for the masses. Hopefully this thread can one day become a stickied Organics thread for research. Stay tuned everyone, that's for the support

KC

P.S. Let's minimize posts on this forum, input and thanks is always welcome, however I'd like to keep the thread relatively clean for easy referencing at later dates for members

__________________
~ Embassador of Organics & Nature ~ RIU Soil/Organic Growers Guild SLGG Thread Link - Vermicompost Up Now!! SLGG Support Thread *Strain Test Pilot* ~Organic Remedies~

very very nice information for the organic in us.. Dont mind if I share this with my medical forums the old hippies love it!

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Check out my Cfl' flouro mix grows Journal..http://www.rollitup.org/grow-journal...t1615035:hump:My Strawberry Haze http://www.rollitup.org/grow-journal...aze-3-g13.html

hi bros.

i have to make my own mix.because thete is no proerly compost around here

therefore please help me while making my soilless compost .

i will use

1) sphagnum peatmoss

click

2) perlite

3) dolmite lime 1 tablespoon for 3 gal pots ( i am not sure if it is true ratio ? )

4) Vermiculite ( i am not sure if i should add Vermiculite ? )


Furthermore, how much should i use each of them ?

eg;

%70 sphagnum peatmoss ,%20 perlite and %10 Vermiculite will be fine ?

or is only sphagnum peatmoss good ?


i am starving to learn

thanks my friends.

PS: i will use biobizz organic nutes

youd get a better response from posting your own new thread and asking.. it would let more people see the question... I always use bat guano and blood meal but thats preference.. trial and error is your best road to travel.

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Check out my Cfl' flouro mix grows Journal..http://www.rollitup.org/grow-journal...t1615035:hump:My Strawberry Haze http://www.rollitup.org/grow-journal...aze-3-g13.html

Thank you homegrwn, couldn't have said it better myself

KC

__________________
~ Embassador of Organics & Nature ~ RIU Soil/Organic Growers Guild SLGG Thread Link - Vermicompost Up Now!! SLGG Support Thread *Strain Test Pilot* ~Organic Remedies~

i am a pro-mix user myself i will be watching this

__________________
"i really need help,
i plan to grow weed outdoors i know its possible but i need to know how will i power the lights."

Hello everyone, thanks for looking at the threads, glad to see you guys are enjoying the information. I have created a new thread to deal with comments or questions you guys may have with this thread, it can be accessed here, it will also be appearing in my signature shortly. PLEASE POST ON THE NEW SUPPORT THREAD, and I will answer any and all questions and comments there from now on.

I would like to keep this page as clear as possible to easily access information in the posts. Thanks to everyone again for all the support and interest in the organic world, glad to see the passion is alive . Stay tuned for updates, Vermicomposting will be posted within the next 24 hours. Peace and Love

KC

__________________
~ Embassador of Organics & Nature ~ RIU Soil/Organic Growers Guild SLGG Thread Link - Vermicompost Up Now!! SLGG Support Thread *Strain Test Pilot* ~Organic Remedies~