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#1
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I have been trying to control and get rid of aphids for months now and it is pissing me off. I cleaned both rooms and started some new pepper plants which soon had aphids again. Now all my plants are doing pretty well but still aphids. I have been spraying every 2 - 3 days with a soy based spray then having lights off for awhile to try to get rid of them but they keep coming back. They like the pepper leaves the most but are now getting into my cilantro and parsley so now i am spraying everything. Any other ideas????
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#2
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Aphids - Aphids are soft-bodied insects that use their piercing sucking mouthparts to feed on plant sap. They usually occur in colonies on the undersides of tender terminal growth. Heavily-infested leaves can wilt or turn yellow because of excessive sap removal. Aphids produce large amounts of a sugary liquid waste called "honeydew". The honeydew that drops from these insects can spot the windows and finish of cars parked under infested trees. A fungus called sooty mold can grow on honeydew deposits that accumulate on leaves and branches, turning them black. The appearance of sooty mold on plants may be the first time that an aphid infestation is noticed. The drops can attract other insects such as ants, that will feed on the sticky deposits. Infestations generally result from small numbers of winged aphids that fly to the plant and find it to be a suitable host. They deposit several wingless young on the tenderest tissue before moving on to find a new plant. The immature aphids, or nymphs, that are left behind feed on plant sap and increase gradually in size. They mature in 7 to 10 days and then are ready to produce live young. Usually, all of them are females and each is capable of producing 40 to 60 offspring. The process is repeated several times, resulting in a tremendous population explosions. Less than a dozen aphid "colonizers" can produce hundreds to thousands of aphids on a plant in a few weeks. Aphid numbers can build until conditions are so crowded, or the plant is so stressed, that winged forms are produced. These winged forms fly off in search of new hosts and the process is repeated.
Solution - Early detection is the key to reducing aphid infestations. The flight of winged colonizers cannot be predicted, so weekly examination of plants will help to determine the need for control. Examine the bud area and undersides of the new leaves for clusters or colonies of small aphids. The presence of these colonies indicates that the aphids are established on the plants and their numbers will begin to increase rapidly. Fatty acid salts or insecticidal soaps are very good against aphids. They apparently work to disrupt insect cell membranes. They require direct contact with the insects and leave no residual effect. Nervous system insecticides, such as malathion, Dursban (chlorpyrifos), and Orthene (acephate), are labeled for use on many shade trees and ornamental plants for aphid control. As with soaps, coverage is very important and a follow-up application may be necessary. Sevin (carbaryl) is not effective against many aphids so it is generally not a good choice for control unless recommended specifically. In fact, applications of Sevin may reduce the number of beneficial insects, such as lady beetles, and increase the potential for aphid outbreaks. Beneficial insects, such as lady beetles and lacewings may eat large numbers of aphids but the reproductive capability of aphids is so great that the impact of the natural enemies may not be enough keep these insects at or below acceptable levels. To keep aphids and other pests off your plants just finely chop1 onion and 2 medium cloves of garlic. Put ingredients into a blender with 2 cups of water and blend on high. Strain out pulp. Pour liquid into spray bottle. Spray a fine mist on plants, making sure to coat both tops and bottoms of leaves. and here too: Guaranteed Cure for Thrips + other pests! All Natural! - Marijuana Growing
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#3
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When I grow garlic (those bulbs from the store work just fine) next to my roses my roses get relly happy and the aphids are nowhere to be seen. Other solutions Dr Bronners Perppermint soap Red Hot Chilli Wax spray benificial nematodes....good luck!
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#4
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Cee, you need to spray your pepper plants about every 3 days for a good 3 weeks to make sure their gone. Use a mild soapy water. Then after they're gone, I'd spray at least once a week for a while, just for good measure.
Iron head, grow some chives near your roses too, chives helps prevent black spot on roses. |
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#5
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aphids were all over my pepper for ages... the soapy water spray didnt really work that well because they hide so good. In the end, I have eliminated most of them by spending a few minutes every day just looking over the plant and squashing the bastards. Of course this is easier and quicker than it sounds because they decimated most of her leaves.
Just sayin, the most effective way I found so far is to use the shower and my fingers to rid her of large infestations, and then clean up by checking thoroughly every day and killing every single one I can see. yesterday there were about 20 that I could find, today only 10 or so. No eggs, so if you can kill the last one and stop em from coming back youre safe
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#6
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I'm having the same problem with aphids on my pepper plant, my wife got it for me for my b-day and about 1 week later i notice a ton of the little boogers, they Trojan horsed there way in on the pepper plant! I'm trying to kill them by squishing them but I can't seem to get them all, I always miss one so there back in a few days. I put a venus fly trap next to it, but it only catches the air born ones and by the time they're that old they've already been around to long. What a pain in the butt...
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#9
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I want them gone, not just moving from my pepper plant to the plant furthest from the coriander... but low and behold, I didn't see any yesterday, nor this morning, I guess I'll find out soon enough, but I think I squished all the dumb little brains out!!! Haha!
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