Stealth Hydro Bubbleponics Systems - Page 850

Roseman · #**8491** 06-24-2009, 09:05 AM

Temperatures, Humidity
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The temperature is the hardest factor to take control of to me. When confined to a small space, ballasts and lights can push temperatures sky-high in no time flat. That is why I use CFLS, to avoid venting heat. This is especially true during hot summer months when outside temperature reaches its highest. Nighttime (LIGHTS OFF period) temperature can be just as difficult to regulate during cold winter month. Most gardeners are aware that temperature in the grow room plays a major role and can greatly affect the growth of plants and the quality of the finished crop. Most gardeners do not know how controlling the temperature of their garden in very specific ways they can achieve a superior crop. Drift to far from these ideal temperatures and watch your plants and crop suffer.
Before getting started it is highly recommended that every indoor garden has a max/min thermometer. (Digital $4.95 at Walmart)

This product allows the gardener to see exactly the fluctuations in temperature within their garden. Without this useful tool there is no accurate way of knowing the different temperatures between daytime (lights on) and nighttime (lights off). The difference between the two temperatures is very important to plant growth. Anymore than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures and you risk shocking and stressing the plants. You want a 10 degree difference between LIGHTS ON and LIGHTS OFF temps. In general the optimal daytime temperature for plant growth is between 70F -75F. Drift to far above this range or too far below and growth can be severely affected. Daytime temperatures exceeding 90F or under 62F and plant growth will be slowed and stunted. Plants do thrive in afganastan's 110 degrees, but they quit growing at that temp. If the temperature drifts higher than 95F the plant’s enzyme production will drop off and the plant will begin shutting down. At temperatures above 92 - 94, high photosynthesis shuts down due to the stomata in the leaves closing down to conserve water. At normal temperatures the stomata will be open, taking in CO2 and sweating water to keep the plant cool and allowing for transpiration.
Ideal temperature varies depending on whether or not CO2 is being introduced to the environment. A more suitable daytime temperature when the air is being enriched with CO2 is 80F-85F. This temperature range promotes the exchange of gases between the plants and the environment. Also, it can speed up the process of photosynthesis. Plant in an environment at 86F can perform carbon extraction from CO2 twice as fast as at 68F. It is still recommended that the nighttime temperature drop no more than 15f from that of the daytime temperature. There is another relationship between temperature and the absorbsion of gases by plants that many hobbyist growers are aware of. That is the relationship between the temperature of the water in your reservoir and the amount of oxygen the water can hold. The best range that your reservoir can be between is 60F-75F. Ideally the reservoir temperature should be at 65F because this level contains the most oxygen. Also this temperature will help control transpiration (the act of drawing up nutrients by evaporating water through out the leaves), and humidity levels. Buying a simple aquarium floating thermometer will allow you to know where you fit in this range.

$2 to $4 at Walmart, Target,
PetSmart Aquarium Dept

Another great reason for regulating the temperature in your grow room is that biological processes can be speed up exponentially by every degree. This is true for your plants as well as the potential pests that may invade your grow room.
Pests such as spider mites can reproduce up to 10 times faster with every degree the temperature rises.
These pests can destroy a garden in no time flat, you really do not want to make it any easier for them. Spider Mite Eggs and webs can screw up the buds so bad, they can nto be smoked. With a daytime temperature at a steady 72F and nighttime temperature of 65F it is much easier to control and destroy spider mite, thrip, and many other pest populations.
The same principal can be applied to the prevention and control of fungi, molds, mildews, and bacteria, which can spread more rapidly when temperatures in the grow room or reservoir exceed 90F. Also, the warmer the air, the more water it can retain which means humidity levels can easily go beyond the recommended 40-50% for Vegging. (you want high humidity for VEG, and low humidity for Flowering.) This high humidity coupled with lower nighttime temperatures can cause condensation to form on leaves. This will invite molds, mildews, fungi, and bacteria to take over you grow space. With high temperatures the likely-hood of losing control of the problem, such as powdery mildew, is very high. Once control is lost your plants may be the next to go.

Temperature is also very important when it comes to starting seeds and getting cuttings to root. Placing seedling trays on a heating mat will reduce germination time dramatically. Speeding up germination time usually leads to stronger and healthier plants. Also, less time spent between crop cycles makes a garden efficient. More harvests provided in less time can equal big bucks in the pockets of professional growers.
The ideal temperature for sprouting or cloning is 80F. Any higher and you risk burning the roots. Also, many seeds simply will not germinate at temperatures over 90F. The seeds will become dormant and never sprout.
The same principal used for seeds is used on cuttings to coax roots out quicker. The sooner cuttings can establish roots the better. If roots can be forced quickly they will grow strong and stay strong. A bottom temperature of 80F-85F, roughly 10F warmer than the air, will speed up rooting time and help to jump start those roots once they do begin. Let the temperature get too high or too low and roots growth will be hindered or they will never grow at all. Using the proper technique and the proper temperature for bottom heat not only can rooting time be speed up from 2 weeks to as little as 3 days, but the survival rate of your cuttings will drastically improve.

On the topic of roots, there is an ideal temperature for the root zone after the plants’ roots have been established. Roots are working 24 hours a day and constant attention is required concerning temperature in and around the root zone. The ideal temp for this root zone is generally 65 to 75 degrees F. At this temperature the ion exchange between the roots and the environment around them is at its absolute best. This means that the plant’s root system can take up more macro nutrients, more micro nutrients, and more oxygen at this temperature than at any other level. This makes a plant more efficient and a plant working efficiently will provide a superior yield.

Amazingly, some growers grow successfully with no themometer for the air or water. But for maximum efficiency, you got to take control of temps.

HUMIDITY? that is more simple to me. Get the Humidity VERY high for VEGGING, and very low for FLOWERING.

in Vegging, I mist them daily. I do raise the lights up, to be careful with my bulbs getting wet and breaking. And when it rains outside, it also gets cloudy and the sun's rays are blocked. Plants in outdoors, in nature do get an ocasional rain shower or thunderstorm. Do you let it rain on yours? I do, but artificially by MISTING.
AND, I bought a cheap humidifier.

Cheap Cool Mist Humidifiers from Walmart:

$26.00

Ultrasonic Humidifier With Light

$28.97

Graco, Cool Mist Humidifier, 1.5 Gallon $29.96

During Flowering, we need a low humidity, especially to avoid Bud mold and bud rot.

Cheap De-Humidifier for closets and tents
$40 at amazon.com

Jigga2137 · #**8492** 06-24-2009, 09:06 AM

Hello all,

These were from like a little over a week ago. They should be done this coming Friday. What do you guys think?

Roseman · #**8493** 06-24-2009, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HomeGrownHairy

\

Rosey
I'm always short a few lumens..lol I am using a 150 w hps & a 250 w hps and 5 cfl's as side lights. I have them as close and I can get them. Maybe I need to dump that 150 for another 250 next grow?
Are your buds tight from your cfl grows? My Big Bud is pretty fluffy and my WW is okay, but not tight. I have chopped some of the ww and I do like the sample, even uncured it's nice, but I think another week for the rest..then curing....I need more patience.

Sometimes I am a few french fries short of a full meal deal.

I move my CFL bulbs around, at least twice daily and I put them one inch from my bigger buds and colas, and they do get tight, very tight. Each plant will have 2 or 3 bulbs over the tops and a few on the sides.

Roseman · #**8494** 06-24-2009, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adironman6

Roseman,
I have 4 trainwreck in the bubbleponics with sh nutes. They are real bushy and the big fan leaves are blocking some light that gets to the bottom part of the plants. I have been low stress training them, but this is a bushy plant. I was wondering should I prune some of the leaves to get light to more of the plant? I know the big fan leaves hold food so I am hesistant of cutting anything. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks

DO NOT CUT THEM.
Get some paperclips and hold them back, if you insist on doing anything, but DO NOT CUT THE FAN LEAVES OFF.

IN MY HUMBLE OPINION, When a large FAN leaf starts yellowing, say it is half yellow, that means in the photosynthesis process, that leaf has ate nutes, sucked in some LIGHT and made food for the plant and buds and NOW, half of that is gone, or used or consumed. Well, what about the other half? Can it not it's energy still be used or consumed?
AND when it is ALL consumed or used, that leaf will naturally just fall off.

AND you say it is blocking LIGHT?
GREAT and GOOD, that means it is getting the LIGHT it needs and deserves more than the other leaves do, to do it's job.

Years ago I tried removing lower fan leaves to allow more Light to penetrate in. When i did, the plant went into shock for a day or two, and quit eating or only ate half as much, and just went on "stand by" mode. Then, after a day or two, suddenly, I saw that big fan leaf replaced by a new leaf, and I saw my plant use the energy to replace that leaf, more than it used it to grow bigger and make more buds or bigger buds.

I now believe that removing fan leaves is pointless, and that a leaf has a purpose and will serve that purpose until it is dead. Then it will fall off.

Don't ever remove fan leaves before harvest for several reasons.

1. The fan leaves MAKE AND STORE energy for the plant. The fan leaves are doing a process called photosynthsis, and it is the most important part or task or job the plant does, to make it grow. They make the FOOD, the sugars and carbs needed to grow.

If you remove a FAN leaf, the plant will stop growing taller until it can replace that removed fan leaf.

Removing a healthy fan leaf is a big waste of time..they are rapided replaced,, unless you are in the last few weeks of flowering.

2. Even if the fan leaves are yellowing in late bloom I do not remove them until they are almost ready to fall off. The yellowing in the fan leaves at late harvest is the plants metabolism at work. She is transferring all stored energy in the fan leaf to bud production. It is the easiest source of energy she has late in life.

From the Growers Bible by Jorge Cervantes:
Leave leaves alone! Removal of healthy leave hacks up a healthy plant. Removing large or shade leaves DOES NOT make plants more productive. This practice DOES NOT supply more light to smaller leaves and growing tips. Plants need all their leaves to produce the maximum amount of chlorophyll and food. Removing leaves slows chlorophyll production, stresses the plant, and stunts its growth. Stress is a growth inhibitor. Remove only dead leaves or leaves that are more than 50 percent damaged.

chkn915 · #**8495** 06-24-2009, 09:20 AM

Do you guys know if hygrozyme makes your water a little cloudy, I did a res change yesterday and the waters a lil cloudy, the plants look good but my humidity like roseman was just saying is getting high and i have condensation on the leaves, Roseman how did you know? psychic maybe?

Roseman · #**8496** 06-24-2009, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by longroot

Are the number of leaflets on a leaf a sign of maturuity? Mine rapidly went to 9 leaflets per leaf at abot 10" tall? Are there any other charateristics you can look for to determine maturuty? Are nine leaves common? I'd be interested to hear from others about their own leaves. Thanks everyone.

Indica or Sativa.......... White Widow, Rhino, Northern Lights, Skunkbud, Blueberry, Bubblegum, White Dwarf, LowRyder, etc, all strains are different.

The number of leaves is not relative to maturity.

Alternating or staggered nodes is a sign of maturity.

Roseman · #**8497** 06-24-2009, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thrasher645

Hey everybody whats up,

I started my 3rd week in flowering. I just thought I would give an update of the girls. White widow, Headband, Strawberry Diesel, there about 2 1/2 ft tall, Sativa is almost 4 ft!
Sorry about the crappy pictures. Ill try to get better ones next time.

You sure are THE MAN for growing Sativa indoors. I'm too much a coward to try it.

Roseman · #**8498** 06-24-2009, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peteman990

Those look very nice and healthy man. Looks like it's gonna be a good smoke!

Alright, hope stuff starts to settle down a little bit now lol. Did the 8 step recovery, w/ a little extra Hydrogen Peroxide for 15min to kill the larvae. Pulled off all the roots that were hanging down from the pots on the rotting plants. Filled it all back up w/ 5.84 pH'ed water w/ exactly 250 ppm all together in the water w/ nutes. Added a saucer of vinegar to trap those damn gnats.

Is it just me, or do the first couple plants I posted pics of look awful. Parts of the leaves are black now. I'm hoping for their recovery.

Do you know what could have caused my pH to go all the way up to 7.4 again?

ANYTHING dead or decaying will spike it right up!!!

It was 5.9 when I put the water in about 3 nights ago. Seems like a huge change in a short period, could it have been the rotting roots that did it?

Also what would you recommend to prevent the root rot in the future?

Is it OK, or even a good idea, to use Hydrogen Peroxide on a regular basis, i read it is good for the roots. If so, how much?

Thanks for the advice, I hope these babies can get a nice calm growing period, they've been going thru hell for the past week heh.

Hydrozyme is what you need. .................if I spelled it right.

Roseman · #**8499** 06-24-2009, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hubebaba

Hi all! I got my PPM and Ph meters in, and to be honest, not sure what the ppm is supposed to be (gonna have to research it - only 2 plants)! Any suggestions?

Anyway here are the girls, looking better all the time.

Candy is 51 days from seed
Debbie is 40 days from seed

SLOWWWW GROWWWW!

PPM for Hanna Chart PPM

Seedlings, Early Sprouts 100 to 250

Early Vegging 300 to 400

Full Vegetation 450 to 700

Early Blooming 750 to 950

Full Mature Blooms 1000 to 1600

Note: EC Calculations are different, here's a conversion chart :
heres a great chart that shows how different PPM can be from meter to meter... EC is the only real universal language...

remember to discount the ppm of your plain water.

Roseman · #**8500** 06-24-2009, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by polishfalcon420

you know that crossed my mind too actually. you see I went back to work like two days after they sprouted. in which the first day they all stretched real bad on me and actually fell over. so I lowered my light some and got the fan going, the very next day they all stood up on there own and began to get thicker stems and all had four leaves so I added like a 100ppm of nutes. then when I came home from work like 16hrs later they all bushed right out and grew too close to the light and directly into the path of the fan. so I didnt know if it was light burn, wind burn or the small dose of nutes, I readjusted my light and fan and flushed for 3 days which perked them right up and growth never slowed at all, but now I still seem to be getting what looks like a mag def. it is on the first 3 sets of fan leaves and not on any new growth or branches that have started. the yellow spots start in the center of the leaves and work its way out and they curl upat the tips. last night I bumped up the nutes to 400-450ppm and they seem to respond well and as of right now none of the new growth has the problem so Ill let it go and see what happens before I go crazy with the epsom salt or do anything stupid. the system works great but my work schedule is killing me cause the growth is so rapid. I ordered an iceprobe chiller by coolworks that should be here this week so atleast my res temps will stay consistent while Im gone. thanks to everyone here for the help and knowledge.

OSCILATING FANS

An oscilating fan is a necessity to me, in growing.
First it cools the area. Consider in nature, outdoors, plants get breezes and strong winds blown on them, for a reason.
Second, you know how to strenghten a muscle, or make it larger, or stronger or grow faster? You exercise it, you MOVE it.
To strenghten a plants stem, stalk or branch, or make it larger, or stronger or grow faster, you MOVE it too, with an oscilating FAN blowing on it.

Fans help with Temps, Humidity Control, Moisture Control, etc.

Air movement is very necessary for the health of your plants, but too strong of a fan can cause wind burn. Direct your fan toward the tops of the plants and toward the lights. Never position the fan blowing strongly downward on the leaves or you can get wind burn.

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