
03-02-2008, 12:20 PM
|  | Marijuana Toker Marijuana Toker | | Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 132
| | you want me to do the maths? ok
the cfls are
4x27watts=108watts
4x1750lumens=7000lumens
the hps is
1x70watts=70watts
1x6300lumens=6300lumens
the hps is much more cheaper to run with just a slight lowering of lumens. i see what you mean | 
03-04-2008, 06:45 AM
|  | Veteran Smoker Mr. Ganja | | Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: on an Ozone Expedition
Posts: 1,824
| | Yup. I was gonna go CFL for the new veg room, but am going with my old HPS 70W. Might add in a couple CFLs On the edges. Though heat can be a reason to go CFL
(I've also noticed the CFLs don't last nearly their rated lifetime)
I ran a test on the 70W'er yesterday, it pulls 83-84 watts and 1.62amps.
(I also wish people would stop talking watts and talk lumens and color. Watts is fine for the HPS/MH since thats the bench mark. Watts is Ac consumption, well power dissipation. I'm running a light, I wanna know the light output) Quote:
Originally Posted by jetski you want me to do the maths? ok
the cfls are
4x27watts=108watts
4x1750lumens=7000lumens
the hps is
1x70watts=70watts
1x6300lumens=6300lumens
the hps is much more cheaper to run with just a slight lowering of lumens. i see what you mean | | 
04-24-2008, 06:20 AM
|  | Able To Roll A Joint Able to roll a joint | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: new england
Posts: 55
| | i have a question, instead of taking the whole thing appart and potentially ruining it, could i just take off the light cover and just put duct tape or something over the sensor so its always dark which means the light is always on. I probally could wire it but i dont wanna risk messing it up. | 
04-24-2008, 01:21 PM
|  | 420 TIME Stoner | | Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 676
| | The idea of making it remote ballast is that the ballast produces a lot of heat, move that heat away from the plants and you can move your light closer giving you better yields.
I modified one I have just a few days ago, I'll post pictures if you want. I have one without a light sensor, it's just a ballast, reflector and bulb in a box. All I had to do was open the box, cut the wire to the lamp socket and connect a longer wire. Plugged it in, works great. | 
04-24-2008, 04:09 PM
|  | Able To Roll A Joint Able to roll a joint | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: new england
Posts: 55
| | yeah id like to see the picture if thats ok? | 
04-24-2008, 11:07 PM
|  | 420 TIME Stoner | | Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 676
| | Here's the pictures | 
04-26-2008, 06:51 PM
|  | Able To Roll A Joint Able to roll a joint | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: new england
Posts: 55
| | looks pretty good. thanks | 
04-26-2008, 06:52 PM
|  | Able To Roll A Joint Able to roll a joint | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: new england
Posts: 55
| | what kind of light was it when you bought it. like brand. | 
04-26-2008, 08:49 PM
|  | 420 TIME Stoner | | Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 676
| | NCI, they're the kind sold at home improvement stores as hps flood lights, this one doesn't have a light sensor so there's less work modifying it. | 
04-27-2008, 08:02 AM
|  | Stoner Mr. Ganja | | Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,178
| | ha entropic., thats exactly what i did, i have a 70w security light and i just took extension cords and spliced them in between the socket and ballast to "extend" the length of the socket,, works great
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