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Old 08-29-2009, 11:20 PM
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Default DIY Icebox.
Here is my homemade Icebox, I made it from basically a transmission oil cooler from ebay for about $35 and a HVAC vent which was about $10 at most. There are probably several ways that this could be done. The only problem with the way I did it was the trans cooler I bought takes special fittings that where hard to find. I saw some pretty good trans coolers at the local auto parts store that would work. I would not use the tube and fin kind, get the plate kind they are more efficient. The one I bought is about 5 1/2" x 11 1/2" by 2" thick and fit good in the vent. I will test how well it cools my reflector in a couple days when my new ballast arrives. It should do well it is close to being twice the size of the Icebox version. This should be run from a remote reservoir that has a chiller but I am going to use city water drain to waste because I dont pay for water where I live.
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File Type: jpg Trans Cooler.jpg (17.7 KB, 164 views)
File Type: jpg Homemade Icebox 1.jpg (20.1 KB, 162 views)
File Type: jpg Homemade Icebox 2.jpg (17.9 KB, 136 views)
File Type: jpg Homemade Icebox 3.jpg (25.0 KB, 158 views)
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Old 08-29-2009, 11:28 PM
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how does this cooler work what are you going to run through it
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Old 08-29-2009, 11:30 PM
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LOL!
This is great. Exactly what I have been planning on doing. I was going to order one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=200355864970
12"x12"
I haven't found the ducting yet but I thought Lowes had a 12" square to 10" round reducing duct piece. If not, I will have to make my own.
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Old 08-30-2009, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg1919a4 View Post
how does this cooler work what are you going to run through it
It hooks to one end of an air cooled reflector, while a fan is hooked to the other side to pull air through the trans cooler (which is acting as a heat exchanger by chilling the air) through the reflector then just exhausted into the room. You have to have a means of circulating cold water through the trans cooler. The best way is with a remote reservoir, a chiller, and a pump. In my case I am just going to hook up a water line from a sink near by and drain to waste it down a floor drain. I should be able to control temps of my grow room with a fan controller.
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File Type: jpg Icebox..jpg (27.2 KB, 162 views)
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Last edited by fatfarmer34; 08-30-2009 at 06:28 AM.. Reason: Adding picture.
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Old 08-30-2009, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by mindphuk View Post
LOL!
This is great. Exactly what I have been planning on doing. I was going to order one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=200355864970
12"x12"
I haven't found the ducting yet but I thought Lowes had a 12" square to 10" round reducing duct piece. If not, I will have to make my own.
Keep it coming.
Thanks mindphuk. That one is pretty big and would probably do a good job, but it is expensive. By the time your done it would cost almost as much as an Icebox. Although it would probably cool much better that one.
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Old 08-30-2009, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatfarmer34 View Post
Thanks mindphuk. That one is pretty big and would probably do a good job, but it is expensive. By the time your done it would cost almost as much as an Icebox. Although it would probably cool much better that one.
Well, the 8" ice box will be about $180 shipped or over $200 if I buy from local hydro store. The ducting and hose for my DIY will be less than $20 so it will be about half price and will almost triple the surface area for cooling. I looked at motorcycle radiators and other heat exchangers like yours but I like the plumbing on this one (no special fittings needed) and I thought I knew I could get 12" square to 10" round ducting to attach to my 10" Can Fan Max but was unsure of other dimensions, which is a problem you apparently didn't have.

I don't think it's a good idea to draw the cooled air through the light. I think the best way is to pull air through the light, then the exchanger then into the room. I'd rather have the colder air work on the heat in the overall room (tent) rather than get heated up by the light immediately. Also condensation might be more of a problem (sudden warming of moist, cool air).
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Old 08-30-2009, 08:20 AM
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So how much water is going to be running through this thing? If you're constantly flowing water from you're sink down the drain, that might become a little suspicious once your water usage sky rockets...
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Old 08-30-2009, 08:33 AM
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So how much water is going to be running through this thing? If you're constantly flowing water from you're sink down the drain, that might become a little suspicious once your water usage sky rockets...
Recirculating from res with 1/4 HP probe chiller.

BTW, do you know if there is a fundamental difference in design between ones that cool liquids, like yours and ones made to cool air? I wonder if the fins and the number of passes make a difference in terms of efficiency and what not.
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Old 08-30-2009, 09:29 AM
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I'm actually not sure about that, I've heard that the water chillers are more efficient than air chillers, but I don't know why they would be...interesting question

As a side note, with a 1/4 HP chiller and reservoir, why not go ahead and get a liquid-cooled light?
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Old 08-30-2009, 09:33 AM
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Do you have a picture or link to your chiller btw?
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